A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Noah Boudreau-Richard
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Table of contents
- 1.
Lac Boisseau
35 in Crag
- 1.1. Far left 2 in Sector
- 1.2. Three Sister's 9 in Sector
- 1.3. Main Wall 11 in Sector
- 1.4. The Roof 4 in Sector
- 1.5. Right of the roof 4 in Sector
- 1.6. Upper Tiers / The cliffs on top 5 in Sector
- 1.7. Dive Rock 0 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Lac Boisseau 35 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 46.182028, -74.810877
summary
Unique rock type for the region, wild pristine lake with no direct road access, so no boats on the lake. Very quiet spot.
description
Sport crag. A lot of moderate to hard routes, very few easy routes. Ideal for the 5.10 climber, not so much for beginners. The routes are well equipped. Bring a stick clip, as some route have so pretty high first bolt!
access issues
The area is owned by the municipality of La Conception. Climbing is permitted even though there isn't any official agreement yet. Prepare to maybe pay acess at parking.
approach
Take the Alléluia Trail, cross the bridge, follow the edge of the lake, pass a few campsites, and keep walking untill you see a natural path to the wall. The wall is roughly 50 meter away from the lake, it is visible from the trail.
where to stay
Don't camp in the parking. Camp at Montagne d'Argent's campsite, it's much nicer, there is water, toilets, shelters and fires.
There is also a variety of camping spot at the beginning of the lake and along the approach.
ethic
Wear a helmet also to belay there is some loose rock, kids=helmet ALL the time at the cliff, bring a stick-clip, top-rope on your equipement, pick up your garbage, no fires at the crag, no chipping, absolutely no dry tooling! no stupid/dangerous/crazy dogs... only cool ones! 
history
The crag was re-discovered in 2004 by Guy Parent after a long search with the few info available. Guy Parent, Charles Pechousek, Eric Paquet, Socrate Badeau and Emanuel Crevier were the main the openers of the " Golden age" of that development period. Later on, local climbers, like Jean-Dominique Saudan, opened a few lines.
1.1. Far left 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 46.182052, -74.811724
description
Two very short routes
approach
just walk to the far left side when you reach the wall of the crag. Two short routes, steep face leading to a small roof. Fun and athletic moves.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Rock the Cradle
Hard Set: E.Crevier, 2006 FFA: E.Crevier, 2006 FA: 2006 | 5.11c | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 2 | ★★ Gorgeous | 5.10c | 15m, 4 | |||||
1.2. Three Sister's 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 46.182041, -74.811471
description
Good area for beginners/warm up. A few moderate routes from 5.8 to 5.10
approach
Left of the approach trail
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Cinq à sept
A nice affordable face on the left side of the Three Sisters’ Wall. Mixed route with 3 bolts, standard rack up to C4 #2, retrobolted rap/belay station. FA: Unknown & around 2000 FFA: Unknown & around 2000 | 5.7 | 24m, 3 | |||||
| 2 |
★ L'Incognito
Watch out for ledges falls FA: around 2000 & A good friend of mine FFA: around 2000, 2000 | 5.10d | 22m, 9 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Smell the Magic
Set: Unknown, 2006 FA: Unknown, 2006 FFA: C. Pechousek, 2006 | 5.10c | 22m, 9 | |||||
| 4 |
★ La salope
This errosion crack was filled with black earth, it took forever to clean. Set: Unknown, 2006 FA: Unknown, 2006 FFA: C. Pechousek/ B. Tessier, 2006 | 5.10c | 22m, 9 | |||||
| 5 |
★ Bricks are Heavy
Set: Unknown, 2006 FA: Unknown, 2006 FFA: C. Pechousek, 2006 | 5.9 | 22m, 9 | |||||
| 6 |
Sortie coté jardin
Folow the micro crack right of the glue-ins of Bricks are Heavy, at the small roof traverse right to the ledge, climb the big left facing diedral, continu to the top vertical wall by the left and exit on the ledge at the v crack (crux). Was climbed before Überhang was bolted. Location Between Bricks are Heavy and Brothers in Arms, rap from trees Protection full trad, no anchors, micro taper nuts to C4 #5 FA: Eric Paquet et Myriam Paquet Set: 2013 FFA: Eric Paquet et Myriam Paquet, 2013 | 5.8 | 26m | |||||
| 7 |
★ Überhang
Start in the small roof and follow the face until you reach a small ledge finish the line in the big crack. FFA: H.De Grantmont, Sep 2017 FA: H.De Grandmont & Patrick Iseli, Sep 2017 Set: H.De Grandmont & Patrick Iseli, 18 Sep 2017 | 5.10a | 23m, 7 | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Brothers in Arms
Tricky start right underneath the small roof left of the tree. The route is equipped with two relays 1.5m away from each other for a reason: the route is 5.10a, but the last move is a solid 5.10d. Set: C. Pechousek & E. Paquet, 2005 FFA: Crevier & to the top belay, 2005 FA: Parent, 2005 | 5.10+ | 23m, 9 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Arbre'd and Dangerous
Last climb to the right of the sector, starts right behind the tree very close to the wall. Using the tree is permitted. Slightly run out toward the end. Easiest route of the sector. Set: Unknown, 2006 FFA: C. Pechousek, 2006 FA: 2006 | 5.8 | 23m, 7 | |||||
1.3. Main Wall 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 46.181990, -74.811153
description
This is where the magic happens. Chérubin is often very busy, so get here early if you want a shot a this classic 5.12
approach
The climb in front of the approach trail is Rêve orange
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ 31 degrés celsius
4 bolts and a anchor equipped with rappel ring. Short and nice small roof to pass. The crux is the roof. FFA: Hugues De Grandmont, Jul 2019 FA: Hugues De Grandmont, Jul 2019 | 5.10a/b | 8m, 4 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Rêve orange
Hard, less flashed then Chérubin... Set: Eric Paquet & re-equiped by Eric Paquet FA: guy parent, 2004 FFA: 2005 & Flashed by a guy from MEC, 2005 | 5.11d | 24m, 7 | |||||
| 3 |
Parcours de vautours
Traverse that starts right of Rêve orange to the belay of Chérubin Set: Unknown FFA: JD Saudan, 2007 | 5.13 | 26m, 7 | |||||
| 4 | ★★★ Aborigène | 5.12 | 18m, 5 | |||||
| 5 |
Swiss Knight
Link-up Aborigène to Chérubin Set: Unknown FFA: JD Saudan, 2007 | 5.12d | 18m, 6 | |||||
| 6 | ★★★ Chérubin | 5.12a | 18m, 6 | |||||
| 7 |
10 jours à Boisseau
Link-up from Chérubin to Aborigène. The name appeared on the web in 2010 Set: 2006 FFA: unknown, 2006 | 5.12a | 19m, 6 | |||||
| 8 | ★★ Klaxon / AKA The Beginning | 5.12+ | ||||||
| 9 |
Zenetik
Set: Unknown FFA: M Fontaine/JD Saudan, 2008 | 5.13+ | ||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 10 |
★★ The Raven
Set: Unknown, 2006 FFA: Pechousek, 2006 | 5.10a | 21m, 7 | |||||
| 11 |
★★ The Philosopher's Stone
High and exposed first bolt. Stick clip recommended. Fun route with overhanging action, creative moves and big jugs! 5 of the 7 bolts used to be equipped with permadraws, they've been removed but chains they were attached to remain. Set: Unknown, 2006 FFA: C. Pechousek, 2007 | 5.10c | 22m, 7 | |||||
1.4. The Roof 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
approach
Starts 50 meters right of the main wall, past a do not pass beware of falling rocks sign
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Napolitaine
Set: Unknown FA: S. Badeau FFA: S. Badeau | 5.12+ | 21m, 8 | |||||
| 2 | ★★ Polichinelle | 5.11a | 22m, 2, 9 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Téquila Sunrise
Clip Stick recommandé ! Set: Patrick Iseli & H.De Grandmont, Jun 2017 FA: Patrick Iseli, Jul 2017 | 5.11 | 16m, 5 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Chimérique
FA: S. Badeau Set: Unknown, 2006 FFA: S. Badeau, 2006 | 5.10d | 21m, 8 | |||||
1.5. Right of the roof 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Mouche-cochon
Originaly a project in mix that was climbed in trad. The route would need bolt(s) at the end because there is no protection... Open project again! FFA: Yontanka Tafari around 2009 Set: Unknown, 2007 FA: B. Tessier, 2007 | 5.10- | 16m, 2 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 2 |
Viagra Crimpy Monkey Slap
Set: Unknown, 2007 FA: C or B, 2007 FFA: C. Pechousek / B. Cartwright, 2007 | 5.11- | 16m, 6 | |||||
| 3 |
Touched by an Anvil
Set: Inconnu, 2007 FA: C.Pechousek, 2007 FFA: C. Pechousek, 2007 | 5.10d | 16m, 6 | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ Lost in Translation
Set: Unknown, 2007 FA: C. Pechousek, 2007 FFA: C. Pechousek, 2007 | 5.10- | 19m, 8 | |||||
1.6. Upper Tiers 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 46.182447, -74.811905
description
Lower angled cliffs on top of Three Sister's and Main wall
approach
Walk up at the extreme left (flags), 50 meters left of "Rock the Cradle"
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Collaboration
Leftmost route in this section. The first half is a good 5.7/5.8 warm-up; the 2nd is a boulder problem at height.
FA: unknown Set: Patrick Iseli, 2016 | 5.10c | 26m, 2, 11 | |||||
| 2 |
★ Le Parcours de L'Ange
Run-out from last bolt to anchor. Very loose hand sized block at the right just before the anchor. Parasite route of Carmen, uses same anchor and is 4 feet to the left on a 100 m wide wall. Recommend repelling as rope can get caught in loose block on lowering. Set: unsafe incompetent oportunist. | 5.10a | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 3 |
★ Carmen
Second route from the left, situated in the center of the sector. The guidebook shows that it shares the anchor with Bruno, it would be more natural to continue straight into the finish of Parcours d'ange. Still, the route lacks of its own character and melts into its neighbours. FA: unknown & around 2000 Set: unknown & around 2000 FFA: unknown & around 2000 | 5.9 | 25m, 7 | |||||
| 4 |
★ Bruno
3rd route from the left, situated in the center of the sector. FA: unknown & around 2000 Set: unknown & around 2000 FFA: unknown & around 2000 | 5.9 | 25m, 6 | |||||
| 5 | ★★ L'Angélique | 5.9 | 16m, 7 | |||||
1.7. Dive Rock 0 routes in Sector
description
Mini deep water solo/dive rock on the side of the lake, best spot for a swim.
approach
Continue on the lake side trail for about 500 meters past the cliff for a great dive in the lake!
descent notes
Check water level before diving
