A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Noah Boudreau-Richard
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan
58 in Crag
- 1.1. Le Rocher Ecole 0 in Sector
- 1.2. Secteur de l'Etang 13 in Sector
- 1.3. Le Mur Principale 24 in Sector
- 1.4. Secteur les Escaliers 21 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan 58 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: 46.169207, -74.426562
summary
Small granite crag in the Laurentians with a very short (1-3 minute) approach.
description
This is a smallish crag easily approached from the road, ranging in height from 10-25m. It offers a variety of trad and sport routes
Cliff-top access is generally doable, though may be tricky to figure out, for setting up top-ropes.
(As of spring 2011) a topo (in French) is available from: http://www.drtopo.com/quebec/246 or from http://www.fqme.qc.ca/index.asp?id=884
access issues
The site is on public land managed by the municipality of Lac Superior (not the great lake) and the Fédération québécoise de la montagne et de l’escalade (FQME).
You should be a member of FQME to climb at this site.
approach
Google map link for parking: http://maps.google.com/maps?q=46.168835,-74.425464&num=1&sll=49.356499,-74.015209&sspn=8.600199,1.118575&ie=UTF8&ll=46.168805,-74.425721&spn=0.020923,0.038409&z=15
Park there, walk a minute or so west along the road, then up the obvious access trail to the cliff. Approach time 2-3 minutes.
ethic
Clean-up after yourself. Stick-clipping is expected especially on some of the tougher sport routes and they were bolted with this in mind. Don't belay off existing fixed gear. No new development of routes without authorisation of the FQME. Projects will be marked with red tape, don't climb projects.
1.1. Le Rocher Ecole 0 routes in Sector
description
About a dozen easy routes with anchors and easy cliff-top access for setting top-ropes. Off to the left of the entrance.
1.2. Secteur de l'Etang 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping
description
The first sector encountered as you approach the rock, has a small pool at the bottom.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Subito Presto
Third bolt line leftwards from the obvious corner with the thin crack in the back in the upper part. | 5.9 | 10m, 4 | |||
| 2 |
★★ Les Lapins
2nd bolt line left of the corner. | 5.9 | 10m, 6 | |||
| 3 |
Regime Minceur
Bolt line just left of the corner. | 5.11a | 12m, 6 | |||
| 4 |
★★ Ma Premiere
Left-facing corner with a thin crack in the corner in the upper section of it. | 5.6 | 10m | |||
| 5 | Le Petit Coin | 5.9 | 10m | |||
| 6 | Griffe-Moi | 5.11 | 15m | |||
| 7 | ★ La Fissure | 5.9 | 15m | |||
| 8 | ★ La Dulfer | 5.9 | 15m | |||
| 9 | Levitation | 5.11c | 10m | |||
| 10 |
★★ Prince Noir
Wide crack that starts in a small left-facing corner (or pull up onto the small ledge from just left of the corner) just a couple meters left of the pond. | 5.8 | 10m | |||
| 11 |
★ Les Dames du Lac
Left-facing corner starting just left of the left edge of the pond. | 5.8 | 10m | |||
| 12 |
Pont Levis
3 finishes, left is 5.9, middle 5.10, right is 5.11. | 5.11 | 10m | |||
| 13 | Les Pieds dans l'Eau | 5.10 | 10m | |||
1.3. Le Mur Principale 24 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
description
The main wall, a few meters to the right of the entrance.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Petit Parallele | 5.9 | 20m | |||||
| 2 | ★ Sutounu | 5.11 | 20m, 2 | |||||
| 3 | A Nos Deux | 5.12a | 20m, 4 | |||||
| 4 | Gromlech | 5.11a | 20m, 1 | |||||
| 5 | ★★ Menhir | 5.10 | 20m, 2 | |||||
| 6 | ★★★ Interruption | 5.9 | 20m, 2 | |||||
| 7 | ★ Sans-Nom | 5.10 | 20m, 4 | |||||
| 8 | ★ Le Revenant | 5.12+ | 20m, 5 | |||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 9 |
★★★ Trident
Splitter finger crack. Goes up to a horizontal about half way up the face; at which you can either continue up the direct line, or traverse right to the 2nd crack that starts upwards at the horizontal. Both about the same difficulty. | 5.10c | 25m | |||||
| 10 | ★★ Huggies Stay Dry | 5.11 | 25m, 4 | |||||
| 11 | Intrusion Direct | 5.11b | 25m, 4 | |||||
| 12 | ★★ L'Envoute | 5.11b | 25m, 5 | |||||
| 13 | Les Mouches Noirs | 5.13- | 25m, 3 | |||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Momo
The obvious slightly left-leaning wide crack in the middle of the wall. | 5.7 | 25m | |||||
| 15 |
Cryptogramme
Line directly up the face between Momo and Trilogie. FA: Martine Lavallée, 2021 FA: Pierre Cornellier, 2021 | 5.13a | 21m, 4 | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Trilogie
Starts on a finger crack a few meters right of "Momo", and follows a series of disjoint cracks up and right. | 5.10c | 25m | |||||
| 17 |
★★ La Fruitee
Just right of the thin cracks of "Trilogie" is a single bolt below an obvious crack with an obvious thin chock-stone near the top. Pre-clip the bolt recommended -- the start is right of the bolt, and is thin-moves to a pocket. 5.7 climbing after the pocket, but the moves to the pocket are very height-dependent, and noticeable harder than 5.7 if you're short. | 5.7 | 25m, 1 | |||||
| 18 | ★ Rad Cliff | 5.12a | 21m, 6 | |||||
| 19 | ★ Gueule de Loup | 5.9 | 21m, 3 | |||||
| 20 | ★★ Marche Noir | 5.11 | 25m, 6 | |||||
| 21 | ★★ Directissime | 5.9 | 25m | |||||
| 22 | ★ Rive Gauche | 5.8 | 25m | |||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 23 |
★ L'Éperon
Climb the blocky arete. Not a good lead if 5.6 is anywhere close to your limit, as there is a loose block that must be carefully avoided. | 5.6 | 28m | |||||
| 24 |
★ Babord Tribord
Now a sport route | 5.10 | 25m, 8 | |||||
1.4. Secteur les Escaliers 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping
description
Farther along, to the right of the main wall. Where the base starts angling upwards with some steps.
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Babord Tribord
Bolted line to the left of Le Dièdre. FA: Benoit Gosselin, 2000 FA: Eric Hamel, 2000 | 5.10b | 21m, 8 | |||||
| 2 |
★★★ Le Diedre
The obvious dihedral & crack up the centre of the wall. Can, optionally, exit left by continuing up the chimney then traversing left to the anchor of "Babord Tribord". | 5.8 | 25m | |||||
| 3 | Le Rampart | 5.10d | 22m, 8 | |||||
| 4 | Le Surplomb | 5.11a | 22m, 4 | |||||
| 5 |
Monsieur Sécurité
Same start as Le Surplomb but cross to the right to follow the crack and end in La Rampe. FA: Eva Prado, 2014 | 5.10a | 20m, 6 | |||||
| 6 | La Rampe | 5.9 | 20m, 3 | |||||
| 7 | Solitude | 5.10c | 18m | |||||
| 8 | Pleureuses | 5.8 | 26m | |||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Au Bord du Gouffre
The left side of the deep chimney/gulley/chasm. Start with some stemming, then pull onto the left wall. Now bolted for sport. | 5.9 | 17m, 8 | |||||
| 10 |
Le Gouffre
"The Chasm" | 5.9 | 20m, 6 | |||||
| 11 |
★★ Souvenir
The right side of the chasm. | 5.10b | 24m, 12 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Renversante
Now a sport route | 5.11a | 25m, 11 | |||||
| 13 |
★★ L'Entre Deux
Climb through a notch in a roof a few meters above the ground, left up a thin dihedral/ramp to thin face climbing above. | 5.10b | 22m, 12 | |||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Plein Des Mains
Almost a sport route -- but a couple run-out sections where gear would be really nice to supplement the bolts. Not clear where to finish after last bolt-- no anchor directly above it... either left towards the anchor for "L'entre Deux" or right towards the anchor for "L'Abeille". | 5.9 | 20m, 9 | |||||
| 15 |
★★ L'Abeille
Climbs up 5 bolts, to a final bolt in a blank shallow corner. Move left on jugs to a block then up and right. Gear, after establishing on the block, is good for the rest of the climb. | 5.8 | 21m, 5 | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Beding Bedang
Climb the corner with the thin crack in the back (small gear) until the crack runs out, then follow 4 bolts directly up to the anchors. | 5.9 | 20m, 4 | |||||
| 17 |
Sortie de Boulot
A variant finish for "Bedin Bedang" - after the initial dihedral traverse right then up a dihedral. | 5.8 | 20m | |||||
| 18 |
★ Last Man Standing
Same start as L'Arche de Kire but climb the left bolt line. FA: Jiri Siler, 2021 FA: Peter Gernassnig, 2021 | 5.10a | 14m, 5 | |||||
| 19 | ★★ L'Arche de Kire | 5.10d | 14m, 6 | |||||
| 20 | ★ La Diagonale | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
| 21 | Les Pieds dans Boue | 5.8 | 15m | |||||
