A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Crazy_Pete Bryan Senger David Gibbs Andy Gnarr Russ MacKenzie Carrie Doyle CElliott Eleo Cruz James Hardy
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Smoke Bluffs
754 in Crag
-
1.1.
Blind Channel Crags / Channel Road 133 in Cliff
- 1.1.1. Jug Slab 7 in Cliff
- 1.1.2. Fatty Bolger 10 in Cliff
- 1.1.3. Ferret's Folly 5 in Cliff
- 1.1.4. Burning Man Corner 10 in Sector
- 1.1.5. The Boys of Porteau 9 in Sector
- 1.1.6. The Zip 7 in Cliff
- 1.1.7. The Sidecar 10 in Crag
- 1.1.8. Free and Easy 48 in Cliff
- 1.1.9. Island in the Sky 8 in Cliff
- 1.1.10. Carjack Crag 0 in Cliff
- 1.1.11. High Cliff 19 in Crag
-
1.2.
Burgers and Fries 52 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Below the Stairs 5 in Sector
- 1.3. Parking Lot Wall 36 in Cliff
-
1.4.
Crag X 83 in Crag
- 1.4.1. Lower Crag X / Main Wall 11 in Cliff
- 1.4.2. Supervalue 12 in Cliff
- 1.4.3. Runestone wall 9 in Cliff
- 1.4.4. Auntie Gravity 5 in Cliff
- 1.4.5. Boulder Gully 14 in Cliff
- 1.4.6. Lower Tier 13 in Cliff
- 1.4.7. Upper Crag X 19 in Cliff
- 1.5. Alexis 2 in Cliff
-
1.6.
Black Zawn and Environs 3 in Crag
- 1.6.1. The Black Zawn 3 in Cliff
- 1.7. Cabin Boy's Office 10 in Cliff
- 1.8. Krack Rock 17 in Cliff
-
1.9.
Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs 36 in Crag
- 1.9.1. Mosquito Area 15 in Cliff
- 1.9.2. Upper Levels / Upper Tier / Laughing Crack Area 12 in Cliff
- 1.9.3. Zombie Roof Area 7 in Cliff
- 1.9.4. Battered Balls 2 in Cliff
-
1.10.
Neat and Cool 58 in Crag
- 1.10.1. Neat and Cool Boulders 1 in Field
- 1.11. Lunch Break Wall 2 in Crag
- 1.12. Penny Lane 43 in Crag
- 1.13. Bughouse Heights 11 in Crag
- 1.14. Split Beaver 12 in Crag
- 1.15. Lumberland 24 in Crag
-
1.16.
2nd Ave 24 in Crag
- 1.16.1. 2nd Ave, Left 10 in Crag
- 1.16.2. 2nd Ave, Lower Right 7 in Crag
- 1.16.3. 2nd Ave, Upper Right 5 in Crag
- 1.16.4. Nubile Woman 2 in Crag
- 1.17. Split Asunder 34 in Crag
- 1.18. Respiration Rock 2 in Crag
- 1.19. Funarama 40 in Crag
- 1.20. Themyscira 1 in Area
- 1.21. Skunk Hollow 6 in Unknown
- 1.22. Tunnel Rock 13 in Crag
- 1.23. Vandalarium 10 in Cliff
- 1.24. Call it a Day 5 in Crag
- 1.25. Octopus' Garden 18 in Crag
-
1.26.
Ronin's Corner 28 in Crag
- 1.26.1. Left Side 11 in Cliff
- 1.26.2. Central 12 in Cliff
- 1.26.3. Elephant's Arse 5 in Cliff
- 1.27. Pink Cliff 12 in Crag
- 1.28. Pixie's Corner 14 in Crag
- 1.29. One Toque Wall 1 in Crag
- 1.30. Fern Gully 7 in Crag
- 1.31. Crystal Wall 3 in Crag
- 1.32. Spiderfly 2 in Crag
- 1.33. Grand Doug 3 in Area
- 1.34. Nighthawk Moss 8 in Crag
- 1.35. Vigilante Boulders 1 in Area
-
1.1.
Blind Channel Crags / Channel Road 133 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Smoke Bluffs 754 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 49.707368, -123.138056
summary
Good cragging 5 minutes walk from downtown Squamish.
description
Smoke Bluffs are the obvious series of small cliffs just north-east of Squamish. They are in a municipal park created in cooperation between local climbers and the town of Squamish. The park is easy to get to -- 5 minutes walk from downtown Squamish, with good trails and easy approaches in the range of 1-20 minutes. They are, often, crowded on weekends. Many of the cliffs have easy top access for setting up top-ropes as well.
access issues
Some cliffs are on private land, and closed. Others are close to private homes -- please keep the noise level down near homes, and do not anchor off fences, hydro towers, or anything else that is similar.
approach
Park in the parking lot, and walk-in along the well-maintained and mapped trails to the various crags. 1-20 minutes.
1.1. Blind Channel Crags 133 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.705598, -123.142524
1.1.1. Jug Slab 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.707150, -123.142913
description
Jug Slab is a very clean face directly on the blind channel road, it's marked by a short slab at its lower left side with a few bolts, and a large, deep, gully on its right side.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Unknown
climb the corner past broken pockets to a short slab with 2 bolts. | 5.6 | 8m, 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
David's
The second line from the left, face climb past bolts to the short seam at the top. FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1996 | 5.6 | 12m, 2 | |||||
3 |
★ Stepladder
Follow the bolts up the slab. FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1996 | 5.7 | 12m, 4 | |||||
4 |
unknown 2
a short traverse past one bolt, then follow 4 bolts up a well-featured slab. | 5.7 | 8m, 5 | |||||
5 |
★ Moominland
pad up the bolted line just right of center. FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1996 | 5.8/9 | 14m, 4 | |||||
6 |
★ Hamish's
Far-right side before the gully FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1997 | 5.7 | 14m, 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
Robin's Route
A short climb on the lower bulge. FA: Robin Beech | 5.10c | 10m, 3 |
1.1.2. Fatty Bolger 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706895, -123.142760
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Rumours
just right of the gully, Boulder through a tough bulge, then climb the crack and slab to the top. FA: Glenn Payan & Jeff Thompson, 1996 | 5.10a | 25m, 2 | |||||
2 |
★★ Where's Roxie
Named for a missing cat that was never found. FA: Jeff Thompson & Jack Fieldhouse | 5.11a | 25m, 7 | |||||
3 |
★★ Bumper
A thin slab leads to easier climbing above. | 5.11c | 23m, 5 | |||||
4 |
★★ Fatty Bolger
The oldest route at the cliff. Startup the arete then step left at the second bolt and climb the center of the wall. FA: Tami Night & Peter Croft, 1981 | 5.11a | 28m, 6 | |||||
5 |
★★ The Leading Edge
Climb the right side of the arete FA: Will Dorling & Elise Hunt, 1996 | 5.11a | 28m, 6 | |||||
6 |
Vulture Culture
climb The Leading Edge to the 3'd bolt, then step right and climb across the undercling. FA: J. Green | 5.13- | ||||||
7 |
★ Waning Gibbous
Climb Squeakers to the first bolt, then break out left up the arete FA: B. Green | 5.10c/d | 4 | |||||
8 |
The Squeakers
Climb the large corner to a set of anchors on a ledge, or continue up the slab to the top. | 5.6 | ||||||
9 |
Rose of Sharon
climb up the featured face to the right of The Squeakers. | 5.10a/b | 3 | |||||
10 |
★ Beached Whale
A small face climb found a few meters right of the arete FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 2001 | 5.10c | 8m, 1 |
1.1.3. Ferret's Folly 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706763, -123.142165
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Cold Metal | 5.11a | 10m | |||||
2 | ★ Earth Trip | 5.6 | 10m | |||||
3 | Ferrets Folly | 5.7 | 10m | |||||
4 | Green and Black | 5.9 | 10m | |||||
5 | ★ Right On Jennejohn | 5.10a | 10m |
1.1.4. Burning Man Corner 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706161, -123.143019
description
Left of The Zip Sector is a large face sporting multiple ledges and routes from 5.6 to 10d. As of August 10th, 2020, the District of Squamish has purchased the private land. and thanks to the hard labour of many folks, this sector is clean and reopened!
approach
From the Smoke Bluff parking lot, head up the main path and turn left and enter the forest just before the small bridge. Follow this path until it pops out beside the Mamquam Blind Channel. Turn left and follow the path for about 10 minutes until a small plank bridge appears on the left. Cross the bridge and you will be at the Cliff containing The Zip, Burning Man Corner, and Boys of Porteau.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Closed Project
CLOSED PROJECT: Left most crack with one bolt, currently red-tagged as of may 11 2021 | |||||||
2 | ★★ Chicken-Sashimi | 5.6 | ||||||
3 |
★ Salmonella
Climb Chicken-Sashimi up to the blocky undercling, then break out right on the slab. Climb past a horizontal crack, then 2 bolts to the finish. | 5.10a | 2 | |||||
4 |
★★ Industrial Revolution
Start on Swampton, then quickly break out left on the tricky hand traverse. Mantle up at the end of the crack and climb the slab past 4 bolts. | 5.10d | 4 | |||||
5 |
★ Swampton
Climb the wide crack all the way to the top of the cliff. doubles from 1" to 3" | 5.9 | ||||||
6 |
Hold My Beers Variation
Climb Swampton up to the first ledge, then step right and head past 2 bolts to the anchors on the large ledge. | 5.10d | 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★ Right Corner, Name Unknown
Climb the slightly overhanging corner past some awkward jambs to the ledge, cam be linked with the 5.9 crack directly above. | 5.10b | 6m | |||||
8 |
★★ Upper Ledge, Right Crack
From the large ledge above Swampton, Climb the left-leaning crack. Gear to 2" | 5.9 | ||||||
9 |
★ Upper Ledge, Left Crack
From the ledge above Swampton, climb the Left vertical crack. | 5.8 | ||||||
10 |
★★ Outside Edge
The striking corner on the upper ledge. Climb through some easy moves to the base of the small overhang, stemming and some laybacking will get you through the crux with ease. A short offwidth will land you below a pair of rap-ring anchors. | 5.9 | 25m |
1.1.5. The Boys of Porteau 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706271, -123.143001
description
Leftmost Sector of The Zip area, the majority of the climbs are slabs with broken crack systems.
approach
approach as per The Zip
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Pushup City
A well-textured lower slab leads to some glacier polished steps. | 5.10a | ||||||
2 |
★ Do It Right the First Time
A well-textured slab leads to a small horizontal crack, then more glacier polished slab to the top. | 5.8 | 3 | |||||
3 |
Boys in the Wood
a steep corner leads to a slab crux finish | 5.10b | 2 | |||||
4 |
Naughty by Nature
A short left-leaning crack leads to a few tricky moves on the slab above. | 5.10d | ||||||
5 |
★ Hydrotherapy
Start on the mellow slab to the right of Naughty by Nature, then follow the bolt line left crossing Naughty by Nature and finishing at the anchors for Boys in the Wood | 5.6 | ||||||
6 |
Under Pressure
Start to the right of Hydrotherapy, climb the polished slab. | 5.10c | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★ Overbolted / OB
a great slab to learn on! 4th bolt line to the right from Naughty by Nature | 5.8 | 6 | |||||
8 |
★ Megalodong
Straight up the slab | 5.10b | 5 | |||||
9 |
Slabby Joe
Climb P then break out right towards the edge. | 5.10b |
1.1.6. The Zip 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706156, -123.142945
description
As of August 10th 2020 The District of Squamish has just purchased the private land. The Zip area is now reopened to climbing. https://www.facebook.com/SquamishAccessSociety/photos/a.501511389889727/4441548069219353/?type=3
An easily accessible crag containing "one of the best 10a crack in Squamish" according to Marc Bourdon's guidebook.
approach
From the Parking lot, walk along the road towards the Chief and take the next trail entrance. This crag will be the first on your left.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Gaia | 5.12b | 25m | |||||
2 |
★★★ The Zip
Considered one of the finest 10a cracks in the bluffs. Amazing and sustained best sum it up. FA: Ward Robinson & Blake Robinson, 1979 | 5.10a | 20m | |||||
3 |
★ Sole Proprietorship
FA: Rolf Ryback & M. Tygges, 1994 | 5.11a | 20m | |||||
4 | ★★ Crystal Ball (Left) | 5.9 | 22m | |||||
5 |
★ Crystal Ball (right)
FA: D. Nicol & A. Ourom | 5.10b | 22m | |||||
6 |
★ Riden’ With Biden
The Zip was discovered and unearthed by Blake and Ward Robinson in about 1979, and quickly became popular. (It’s the left hand crack.) For the first while there was a stump in the middle, at the jog in the crack. Anyway, the rappel route was from a tree, more or less where the blue rope is. The first time there, I noticed some interesting edges and cracks under the rappel rope, and soon after returned to clean it up – Crystal Ball, so named because it foresaw numerous other routes of its kind elsewhere in the Little Smoke Bluffs. Although TBH it does have a natural line. Anyway, having gotten started I also cleaned Riden’ with Biden, enough to climb it anyway. It’s the crack on the right. In the context of 1979 it wasn’t likely to draw crowds, even had it been buffed. Dave Nicol and I did Crystal Ball, and while he was rappelling, I scampered up Riden’ with Biden. Although as I believe that the second rule of solo club is not to talk about it, never made much of it. (First rule: don’t fall.) FA: anders ourom | 5.9 | 13m | |||||
7 |
★★ The Road
Finger crack on the wall right of Riden’ with Biden | 5.10b | 10m |
1.1.7. The Sidecar 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.704915, -123.142825
summary
Routes sent and developed by: Hevy Duty, Erica Olson, André .
description
Short crag beside Free and Easy with beginner friendly routes.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Crackslabber | 5.8 | ||||||
2 | Smiling Faces | 5.7 | ||||||
3 | Trad is Rad | 5.6 | ||||||
4 | Sidecar | 5.10b | 8m, 3 | |||||
5 | ★ Happy Hour | 5.10b | 8m, 4 | |||||
6 | No Feet Required | |||||||
7 | Hormonely Challenged | 5.10b | 1 | |||||
8 |
Voilitle Cocktail / The Green Olive
The thin corner that Y's into two parallel crack systems. Routes were combined as you can reach from crack to crack, Both go at the same grade. | 5.10a | ||||||
9 | ★ Sunny Chibas | 5.9 | ||||||
10 | ★ Harold's Arete | 5.9 |
1.1.8. Free and Easy 48 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.704245, -123.142537
description
Another Hevy Duty classic. Featured granite slab and cracks, ranging from low angled to vertical.
approach
From the Smoke Bluffs parking lot, hike up the main trail a short ways and cross the small bridge; hold right to head into the trees onto a shaded wooden walkway. When the trail ends at the Blind Channel (about 0.1mi), head left and walk along the water amongst the trees, past Jug Slab, The Zip, and Sidecar, until at least you reach Free and Easy (about 0.33mi).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Blackberry
A very chill warmup slab in between the iron ladder and Marjorie Mae. A few somewhat frictiony moves, but generally everything is well textured. Excellent stances make this a great route for beginner trad leaders – just remember to extend your gear. The small juggy ledge at the top is on, but the crack is off (except for pro), and obviously the ladder is off, too. Shares the same anchor as Marjorie Mae, Tenacious, and The Cagemaster. ## Location Right between the iron ladder and Marjorie Mae (5.5 crack) at the high upper left side of the crag. ## Protection SR to 1.5", extended. If top roping, you may want to redirect with a draw affixed to ladder rung two or three down from the top. But DO NOT use the rungs to lead this as a sport route! The ladder rungs are not rated or designed for climbing; falling on a rung could result in serious injury. Lead it with gear, or just use the ladder to set up a top rope. FA: Ryan Block & Veronica Belmont, 10 Apr | 5.4 | 8m | |||||
2 | ★ Marjorie Mae | 5.5 | 8m | |||||
3 | Tenacious | 5.10b | 8m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
The Cagemaster
One of two sport routes on the small, upper crag with the rebar ladder. | 5.8 | 8m, 3 | |||||
5 |
★ Pug for life
*Requires: Name, Descrpition, Grade | 5.8 | 12m | |||||
6 |
★ Elsinore
*Requires: Name, Descrpition, Grade | 5.8 | 14m | |||||
7 |
★ Two Pinks and a Blue
The same start as Elsinor, then right | 5.10d | 14m | |||||
8 |
★ Happy and Easy
SR until 2 | 5.10b | 14m | |||||
9 |
★ Squirrels in Pink Panties
SR up to 3 | 5.10d | 16m, 5 | |||||
10 | Open project | 16m, 4 | ||||||
11 | ★★ Ursus Arctus | 5.13a | 8m, 5 | |||||
12 |
★★ Aim at her face
Right Variation of Ursus Arctus | 5.12b | 8m, 4 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 |
★★ Shimmering Crack
Super fun, intimidating looking crack with amazing moves | 5.10b | 18m, 1 | |||||
14 |
★ Man about the park
Up often wet corner crack past one bolt | 5.10b | 1 | |||||
15 |
Tweet, tweet, tinder meat
Right variation of Man about the Park. At the end, cut across the slab towards an easier crack. | 5.9 | 1 | |||||
16 |
Open Project 2
SR to 2.5 | 20m, 7 | ||||||
17 | Living the Wet Dream | 5.10d | 20m, 8 | |||||
18 |
★★ Cragger
Main left crack. Tricky move off the ground 5.6/7 afterwards FA: A. Stevenson, E. Olson & D. Vu, 2016 | 5.7 | 20m | |||||
19 |
★★ The appmaster
Slab between crags, avoid holding/stepping on them for full grade, I've been told 5.10b although feels more 10a | 5.10b | 20m | |||||
20 |
★★ The Trippy Squirrel
Main right crack FA: A. Stevenson, E. Olson & R. McKutt, 2016 | 5.9 | 20m | |||||
21 | ★★ The Magician | 5.11a | 20m, 8 | |||||
22 |
Magical Progression
Warning Fixed Gear: one anchor bolt loose Warning Fixed Gear: No anchor at top Corner crack | 5.8 | 23m | |||||
23 |
The Twitching Rabbit
SR to 4 | 5.10b | 40m | |||||
24 |
★ The Hare
SR to 4 | 5.11a | 40m, 4 | |||||
25 |
★★★ Five-star Crack
SR to 2.5, RPs | 5.12a | 16m | |||||
26 |
★ Range Ball Wrecker, Record
Mixed route bolt to crack to obvious bolt after a bulge. FA: Rolf Rybak & Ian Wigington, 1998 | 5.11d | 12m, 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
27 |
★★ Let's Dance
Probably mixed route if want to protect ground fall past first bolt.start under a bolt to horizontal crag, then past a bulge to a bolt and straight up to a third bolt | 5.11b | 16m | |||||
28 |
Magatron
Highly technical slab directly above the free and easy slab. | 5.12b | 12m, 2 | |||||
29 |
★★ Free and Easy
FA: John Howe & Randy Atkinson, 1979 | 5.10b | 10m | |||||
30 |
★★ Protein Eater
Pull stright through the roof FA: Randy Atkinson & John Howe, 1979 | 5.11b | 10m | |||||
31 |
★ Move on up!
SR to 3.5 Right of Protein Eater. Up the corner crack and then move to left above the roof. Same anchor as Free and Easy/Protein Eater. FA: Alan Stevenson & Erica Olson, 2015 | 5.8 | 10m | |||||
32 |
★ #myass
SR up to 2.5 | 5.10d | 12m, 2 | |||||
33 |
★ Insta-Graham
Two variations start on the wide crack and straight up or go towards the roof and then right to the wide crack roughly same grade FA: Alan Stevenson & Erica Olson, 2015 | 5.8 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
34 |
★ Pocket Change
FA: Alan Stevenson & Erica Olson, 2015 | 5.10b | 15m, 1 | |||||
35 |
★★ Dance, Eat, Sleep, Repeat
Up the right crack FA: Alan Stevenson & Erica Olson, 2015 | 5.8 | 15m | |||||
36 | ★★ Insta-Graham (roof start variant) | 5.9 | 13m | |||||
37 |
★ SpotDaFly
Up the middle slab | 5.11a | 15m, 5 | |||||
38 | Slabchat | 5.11b | ||||||
39 | Shokan | 5.7 | 15m | |||||
40 | Project Send | 5.12c | 12m, 4 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
41 |
Redden's Folly
Up the slab and to the left. To the intermediate chains is 11+ | 5.12b | 12m, 4 | |||||
42 |
★★ Aliens amongst us
Small aliens | 5.12a | 12m, 3 | |||||
43 |
Proudly Canadian
Arete. SR to 1. | 5.10d | 3 | |||||
44 |
★ Coco Chanel
SR to 4. Start the same as Proudly Canadian, and then right. | 5.6 | 14m | |||||
45 |
★★ Chanel No. 5
SR up to 4 | 5.5 | 14m | |||||
46 | The Knotty Burl | 5.10b | 14m, 5, 5 | |||||
47 |
Dani No. 6
SR to 1.5 | 5.10c | 10m, 1 | |||||
48 |
★ Leftie's Arête
Starts on the terrace right | 5.8 | 12m, 6 |
1.1.9. Island in the Sky 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.704996, -123.142271
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Gang of Foreplay
FA: Bill Kipper & Chris Trautman, 1998 | 5.10b | 10m, 1 | |||
2 |
Fissureman’s Friend
FA: Chris Trautman & Bill Kipper, 1998 | 5.8 | 25m | |||
3 | Mossy Tongue | 5.8 | 20m | |||
4 | ★ The Kip | 5.7 | 20m | |||
5 | Belays Of Glory | 5.10a | 20m | |||
6 | Edgar Allan Pro | 5.10b | 15m | |||
7 | University Wallet | 5.8 | 12m | |||
8 | ★ Ethics | 5.10c | 20m |
1.1.10. Carjack Crag 0 routes in Cliff
1.1.11. High Cliff 19 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.704098, -123.141817
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Unknown 1
Trad route left of shiney new bolts | 5.7 | 13m | |||||
2 |
Unknown 2
5 shiney new bolts | 5.9 | 13m, 5 | |||||
3 |
Unknown 3
Cracks to the right of shiney new bolts | 5.8 | ||||||
4 | Beware the Frieds of Starch | 5.9 | 20m | |||||
5 | Miner Details | 5.10c | 15m | |||||
6 | ★ Miner mattres | 5.10a | 15m | |||||
7 | Are You Fond or Anemome | 5.10d | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★ Red Nails
Sandbagged! | 5.11d | ||||||
9 |
Splat
Strenuous fist-sized crack climbing. A hard man's route. | 5.10d | 30m | |||||
10 | ★ Run like a Thief | 5.10a | 15m | |||||
11 |
★★ Fred snails
Obviouse line | 5.11a | 15m | |||||
12 |
★ Step n Stump
Between Run Like a Thief and Issy's Rock. Wide crack. | 5.7 | 18m | |||||
13 |
Izzy's Rock
Warning Fixed Gear: Loose bolt | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
14 | ★ looney Fringe | 5.10c | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 | ★ Twenty Minute Workout | 5.10b | 8m | |||||
16 | ★ Lord of the Drink | 5.11c | 10m, 4 | |||||
17 | ★ The Gift | 5.6 | 15m | |||||
18 |
★ Convolutions of Felicia
Arete with a bolt protecting the crux | 5.10c | 15m | |||||
19 | Hevy | 5.10b |
1.2. Burgers and Fries 52 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.704379, -123.141139
summary
Lots of cracks gentle sloping granite. Nice slab climbs Dries fast.
description
Very busy a lot of the time.
access issues
Houses close by, so be respectful.
approach
Hike in on one of the access trails duh.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2 |
Three Kool Kats
Short hand crack on the Burgers and Fries walk-off trail. | 5.6 | 10m | |||||
3 |
Pine Cones
Hand crack between Three Kool Kats and False Friends | 5.8 | 10m | |||||
4 |
False Friends
Cracks lead to a ramp to the right of Pine Cones. | 5.6 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
5 |
★ Foot in the Gravy
stem/slab FA: Simon Tooley & Shelley Bracken, 1979 | 5.10d | 8m, 2 | |||||
6 |
The New
Slab | 5.11b | 10m | |||||
7 | Lone Rhino | 5.11a | 8m | |||||
8 |
Asshole of November
FA: George Hanzal & Eric Hamel, 2001 | 5.11b | 25m | |||||
9 |
★★ Pink Panther
Slab climb friction test FA: Jim Bahnuk, 1989 | 5.11c | 25m | |||||
10 |
★★ Burgers and Fries
FA: Jim Manuel, Ed Spat & Brian Denhertog, 1979 | 5.7 | 25m | |||||
11 |
★ Peaches And Cream
FA: Dave Jones & Jan St. Amand, 1982 | 5.10a | 20m | |||||
12 |
★ Genetically Superior Neighbour
FA: George Hanzel & Joe Turley, 2008 | 5.11a | 22m | |||||
13 |
★ Dusty Eyes
Start at a large lone boulder and follow the left crack all the way to the top. FA: Keith Rajala & Dave Harris, 1981 | 5.4 | 30m | |||||
14 |
★ Frying Brownies
FA: Barry Wisemann, Bob Wilson & Terry Spurrell | 5.10a | 25m, 1 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
★★ Wisecrack
FA: Barry Wiseman, Bob Wilson & Terry Spurell, 1980 | 5.7 | 25m | |||||
16 |
★ Catch Me
FA: Gene Smith & Joe Turley, 1980 | 5.10b | 25m | |||||
17 |
★ Catch Me Quicker
FA: Gene Smith Joe Turley, Gene Smith & Joe Turley, 1980 | 5.10b | 25m | |||||
18 |
★★ Over Forty
FA: Dave Hutchinson & Dave Jones, 1989 | 5.11a | 22m | |||||
19 |
★★ Catch You
FA: Gene Smith & Joe Turley, 1980 | 5.10c | 25m | |||||
20 |
★ Move it on Over
FA: Simon Tooley & Jorg Beekman, 1980 | 5.10a | 25m | |||||
21 |
★★ Swan song
FA: Kris Wild & Trevor Sharkey, 2003 | 5.11b | 20m | |||||
22 |
★ Short and Sweet
FA: Bob Wilson, Terry Spurrel & Barry Wiseman, 1980 | 5.10a | 15m | |||||
23 |
★★ Sweet and Sour
FA: Kris Wild, Fern Webb & Robin Beech, 2003 | 5.10c | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
24 | Casey | 5.10a | 10m | |||||
25 | ★ Mr. Dressup | 5.8 | 12m | |||||
26 |
★ Jammers Delight
This climb starts on a small buttress between the two main sections (Left and Right) of Burgers and Fries. Climb up a groove with a crack at the back, then step left and up a series of cracks on the face above to a two-bolt anchor. (No lower-offs as of August 2015.) | 5.7 | 15m | |||||
27 |
Councillors Groove
Climb the broken cracks at the left end of the right side of Burgers and Fries wall. | 5.7 | 15m | |||||
28 |
★ Who Needs Bolts?
FA: Jim Campbell & Bob Milward, 1983 | 5.10a | 18m | |||||
29 |
★ Who Needs Pro?
FA: Jim Campbell & Bob Milward, 1984 | 5.10b | 18m | |||||
30 |
★ Predator
FA: Glenn Payan, 1995 | 5.10c | 17m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
31 |
★ Prey / Sarah's Crack
Climb the deep crack just left of High Boltage Line FA: Al Douglas, 2010 | 5.5 | 16m | |||||
32 |
★ High Boltage Line
Climb the broken gully then step right to below the (high) first bolt. (Easy gear in gully if wanted.) Then up the thin face above. FA: G Payan & J Thompson, 1996 | 5.10a | 15m, 5 | |||||
33 |
French Leave
FA: Glenn Payan & J. Thomson, 1996 | 5.10b | 18m, 3 | |||||
34 |
Exit Stage Left
This climb starts just right of French Leave. Go up the steep corner, then veer left up a slanting hand crack towards the French leave anchors. | 5.6 | 18m | |||||
35 |
★★ Split Personality
FA: Stu Smith, 2010 | 5.7 | 15m | |||||
36 |
★ Stu's Slab
FA: Alan Stevenson & Erica Olson, 2015 | 5.10d | 15m | |||||
37 |
★ Exit Stage Right
FA: Alan Douglas, 2010 | 5.6 | 15m | |||||
38 |
★★ Bilbo Baggins
Climbs just left of the corner that "Sour Grass" climbs -- pick one of two starts to a left-slanting crack and follow this. | 5.8 | 15m | |||||
39 |
★★ Gollum
Starts in a deep corner, goes up this for a few meters, then as it becomes dirty, step left onto the main face and follow the nice hand crack to the top. FA: Travis Sanwald, 2010 | 5.7 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
40 |
★ Frodo’s First Step
A short crack at the end of the wall on a blocky rock sticking out from the wall. that diagonals up to the left to a ledge. Great starter crack to laern trad. FA: Michelle Jansen, 2004 | 5.6 | 8m | |||||
41 |
Smeagol
FFA: Michelle Jansen FA: Dave McAllister, 2007 | 5.8 | 8m | |||||
42 |
Player's Special
Right of Smeagol, climb the face to reach a left leaning hand crack. FA: Jim Sinclair & Peder Ourom, 2010 | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
The next climbs are down and right from Smeagol on a detached cliff section. | ||||||||
44 |
Unknown Route 1
Climb the left angling large crack to wrap rings at the top. The crack at the top is often filled with leaves during fall. | 5.5 | 7m | |||||
45 |
★ Unknown Climb 2
First short climb left of White line fever (Rust never sleeps). Thin moves lead to gear small gear in an almost hozontal crack, make the crux move past this to better left trending holds and larger vertical crack to top. Wrap using the rings on the climb left of this climb. | 5.10a | 7m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
46 |
★★ White Line Fever (Rust Never Sleeps)
The next obvious crack line left of "Truck Stop". Climb the steep initial face, to a nice ledge with an anchor (climb originally ended at this point, or practice your multi-pitch skills) then up the crack above. | 5.8 | 25m | |||||
47 |
★ Truck Stop Jamb
Named for the rusted old truck sitting at the base of the cliff. Start at the next crack line left of "Libya Sucks". Climb easy (5.6 or easier) to a ledge, pull a couple 5.7 moves off the ledge, then easier to the finish. FA: Jim Sinclair & Peder Ourom, 2014 | 5.6 | 25m | |||||
48 |
★ Libya Sucks
The 2nd crack left from the fence at the right edge of the cliff. Bouldery start (5.9) to easier climbing (5.7) above. FA: Jim Campbell & Bob Milward, 1984 | 5.7 | 25m | |||||
49 |
★★ Nookie Monster
Starts at the far right end, just before the ivy & fence. Pick on of two starts, then up the groove with cracks above. FA: Robin Barley & Peter Shackleton, 1981 | 5.10a | 25m |
1.2.1. Below the Stairs 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: 49.705264, -123.141422
description
A small crag found on the left side about 75 meters before Burgers and Fries.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Baconator
FA: John Harvey, 2012 | 5.6 | 8m | |||||
2 |
Dreadlock Holiday
FA: John Harvey, 2012 | 5.10a | 8m | |||||
3 |
★ Bananafish
FA: John Harvey, 2012 | 5.8 | 8m | |||||
4 |
★ Dance Orchestra
FA: John Harvey, 2012 | 5.9 | 8m | |||||
5 |
★★★ Gollum's Impromptu Sacrifice
a fantastic crack climb, located directly beside the wooden staircase. you can't miss it! either bring a pad and solo it or use the continuing crack at the top for a gear anchor to top rope it. | V0 | 4m |
1.3. Parking Lot Wall 36 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: 49.710713, -123.141683
description
An easily accessible set of easy cracks, top available for TRs, and bolted anchors.
approach
Park in the north end of the lot, climb out of your car, you're there.
history
Opened in early 2018 by Aaron Kristiansen, with development help from Scott Macpherson and Cameron Hunt.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Covid Crusaders
Shares an anchor with 'The Pleasure Horn'. FA: E Beaudette | 5.7 | 3 | |||||
2 |
The Pleasure Horn
Shares an anchor with 'Covid Crusaders'. FA: H Duty | 5.8 | 3 | |||||
3 |
Return 2 Climbing
FA: Jeremiah | 5.7 | 3 | |||||
4 |
★ Dancing 2 the Moon
Shares an anchor with '5$ Dirtbag'. FA: E Olson | 5.10a | 3 | |||||
5 |
5$ Dirtbag
Shares an anchor with 'Dancing 2 the Moon'. FA: C Harvey | 5.8 | 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Tickled Pink Direct
A bold unprotected direct start up "Tickled Pink". FA: J Harvey | 5.6 | ||||||
7 |
Tickled Pink
See topo at base of crag. | 5.4 | 8m | |||||
8 | ★ Jiminy Cricket | 5.4 | 8m | |||||
9 | ★ No Bleach Required | 5.6 | 8m | |||||
10 |
Free Range Alan
Shares an anchor with 'The Isolator'. FA: E Olson | 5.9 | 2 | |||||
11 |
The Isolator
Shares an anchor with 'Free Range Alan'. FA: Hevy Duty | 5.10a/b | 2 | |||||
12 |
★ Hug
Left end of the wall; bolts to a horizontal crack to steep gear-protected face. FA: A. Kristiansen, 2017 | 5.8 | 10m, 2 | |||||
13 |
Planedemic
Shares an anchor with 'Hug'. FA: A Burkovsky | 5.10b | 10m, 3 | |||||
14 |
★ Kiss
Left-most crack/double-crack. Leads to anchor for Snuggle. FA: A. Kristiansen, 2017 | 5.6 | 10m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Old Skool
Shares an anchor with 'Kiss'. Climb the face just right of 'Kiss'. FA: Andre & Hevy Duty | 5.10b | 10m, 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
16 |
★ Snuggle
Middle crack of the lower triple. FA: A. Kristiansen & S. Macpherson, 2017 | 5.6 | 10m | |||||
17 |
★★ Grr
Right-most of the three cracks that start at the lower base. FA: A. Kristiansen & C. Hunt, 2017 | 5.6 | 10m | |||||
18 |
Slab Z Left
Start midway between arête and ‘Slab Z Right’. Stay left | V3 | 3m | |||||
19 |
Slab Z Right
Start R) hand side pull, 2 metres left of crack. Aim for large rounded edge. | V0+ | 3m | |||||
20 |
Crack Z
Follow the crack up | V0- | 2m | |||||
21 |
★ Pole
Starts from the left end of a small ledge. Bolts & gear up a face. FA: A. Kristiansen, 2017 | 5.8 | 2 | |||||
22 |
★ Miss Five
Dog leg crack. FA: A. Kristiansen, 2017 | 5.7 | 10m | |||||
23 |
★ Definitely not the Dawn Wall
Hand Crack, crosses "Miss Five" near the top. FA: C. Hunt | 5.6 | 10m | |||||
24 |
★★ Bed time
Bolted face, optional gear near the start. FA: A. Kristiansen & C. Hunt, 2017 | 5.10a | 10m | |||||
25 |
★ My Beautiful Brittany
Squeezed between Bed Time and Baby Teddy. | 5.10b | 10m, 7 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
26 |
★★ Baby Teddy
Left-leaning crack to bolts near topp. FA: A. Kristiansen, 2017 | 5.8 | 12m | |||||
27 |
★ Pandemic Days
Climb up the centre of the face between 'Baby Teddy' and 'The Power of Pippin', crossing over 'The Power of Pippin' about half way up to continue up another slab to the top. Crux is at the start. FA: P Ourom | 5.10a | 7 | |||||
28 |
★ The Power of Pippin
FA: P Ourom | 5.5 | ||||||
29 |
C.E.R.B.
Follow the bolts up the Bulge just left of 'Owl Teddy'. FA: J Ouram | 5.11b | 6 | |||||
30 |
★★ Owl Teddy
Hands & fists. FA: A. Kristiansen, 2017 | 5.8 | ||||||
31 |
Pentax
Face with iffy gear, bolt near top. May be listed as Unknown in some guides. FA: M Cundy & D Sarkany | 5.10b | 1 | |||||
32 | Tumour in the Head | 5.10d | 6 | |||||
33 |
★★ Peder's Crack
FA: P Ouram | 5.10d | 6 | |||||
34 |
A Touch of Blood
FA: P Ouram | 5.10d | 6 | |||||
35 |
Zed Ridge
Can be climbed as two pitches. No rap anchors at the top but you can walk off. FA: P Ourom, A Ourom & J Hughes | 5.7 | 8 | |||||
36 | ★★★ Snake Taint | V8 |
1.4. Crag X 83 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 49.708801, -123.141332
1.4.1. Lower Crag X 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Piece of Pie
FA: Randy Atkinson & John Howe | 5.9 | 25m | |||
2 |
★★★ Baby Lizard
FA: Jim Campbell & Jon Rollins, 1981 | 5.9 | 45m | |||
3 |
Reptilian
FA: Robin Barley | 5.10d | 25m | |||
4 |
★ Side Street
FA: Randy Atkinson & John Howe, 1979 FA: Jon Rollins, Joe Turley & Ted Marks, 1996 | 5.10c | 45m, 2 | |||
5 |
★★★ Centre Street
FA: Jim Campbell & Alun Hughes, 1980 | 5.10c | 45m | |||
6 |
Centre Street p1
Stop at the midway ledge, and lower off. Guessing on the grade | 5.10a | 30m | |||
7 | Oregon Express | 5.10c | 45m | |||
8 | ★★ The Gloaming | 5.10b | 50m | |||
9 | Chargex | 5.9 | 15m | |||
10 | Bellevue Drive | 5.7 | 15m | |||
11 |
★★ Gord's Block
Steep diagonal Splitter. | 5.10d | 8m |
1.4.2. Supervalue 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.709041, -123.141515
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Supervalue
Climb over some blocks and across a layback traverse. Then follow the bolts around the arete to a set of discontinued cracks. Beware of rope drag. FA: Robin Barley & Joe Turley, 1982 | 5.10c | 35m, 4 | |||||
2 | ★ Sensitol | 5.10b | 30m | |||||
3 | Public Menace | 5.11d | 40m | |||||
4 | ★ Super Baked | 5.11c | 35m | |||||
5 |
Poison cookies
Climb super baked up to supervalue. Move to a bolt above a small overhang. Slab finish | 5.12c | 35m, 8 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 | ★★ True Love | 5.12b | 40m | |||||
7 |
★ Picket Line
nice sustained hand crack FA: Kevin McLane & Ted Marks, 1984 | 5.9 | 35m | |||||
8 |
★★ Triage Arete
4 bolts in 25 meter is after retro bolting! super fun. Big fall potential! not recommended for anyone not comfortable at the grade FA: Kevin McLane, John Howe & Chris Murrell, 1983 | 5.10a | 23m, 4 | |||||
9 |
★★ Cold Comfort / Cool Comfort
Nice finger Crack FA: Jim Campbell & Alun Hughes, 1980 | 5.9 | 20m | |||||
10 |
★ Lust
The part on the face of this route is bolted. Leads into thin inconsistent crack. Some pro may be used. 10a variation is to go around the arete right after the last bolt. and layback on the flake FA: Nick Jones, Tim Holwill & Bill Noble, 1992 | 5.10c/d | 22m, 4 | |||||
11 |
★★ Loose Lady
Same finish than ''Lust'' | 5.9 | 29m | |||||
12 | Blowzebella | 5.10c | 40m |
1.4.3. Runestone wall 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.708098, -123.141263
description
Short cliff with cpl interesting climbs, just past easter Island
approach
on the trail just past easter Island
descent notes
Rap or walk off
history
developed 2011
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Runestone Pinnacle Left
Flake of separated boulder to crack on top of main cliff climb left side of boulder/flake | 5.8 | 12m | |||||
2 |
★★ Runestne Pinnacle Right
Fun chimney/ of-width/corner to crack high up | 5.8 | 12m | |||||
3 | Cockhair Crack | 5.10c | 15m, 2 | |||||
4 |
Moai
Climb thin left-leaning seams. | 5.10b | 12m | |||||
5 |
★ Grani
Climb a pair of left-leaning finger cracks. | 5.8 | 12m | |||||
6 | Thor | 5.11b | 15m | |||||
7 |
★ Sigurd
Left-leaning twin hand-cracks -- good pro, good novice lead. Anchors aren't lower-off, but easy walk-off to (climber's) right. | 5.3 | 15m | |||||
8 | Claude's Crack | 5.6 | 15m | |||||
9 | Pinner Crack | 5.9 | 15m |
1.4.4. Auntie Gravity 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.709630, -123.141108
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Silly Putty | 5.11a | 25m | |||
2 | ★ Don't Believe the Hype | 5.11a | 18m | |||
3 | ★ Auntie Gravity | 5.10b | 18m | |||
4 | ★ Crag Rat | 5.9 | 18m | |||
5 |
Muffy Crack
Start behind boulder on right hand end of crag, then follow hand crack back left. FA: H dutty & E Olson, 2015 | 5.6 | 18m |
1.4.5. Boulder Gully 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Bouldering, Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.709333, -123.141219
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Intimidating Stare Gopher
Standing start, high crimpy L) side pull, R) hand cup on arête. Up face. | V4 | 2m | |||||
2 |
Cortez Crimp
Sit start on low shelf, up right face to top out | V4 | 2m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
Snake Taint
Start stretched between high L) edge and high R) incut. Up steep face | V8 | 2m | |||||
4 |
Boa Banger
Start crouched, R) side pull and L) undercling. Slap up holds either side of arête. | V9 | 2m | |||||
5 |
The Nose
Start with a high pinch on arête, go for lip and mantle out | V2 | 2m | |||||
6 |
Lean on Me
Standing start using smooth R) facing corner. Sit start alternative to add moves | V2 | 2m | |||||
7 |
Le Carrots son Quite
Start with high L) crimp, R) undercling. Top out | V2 | 2m | |||||
8 |
Tea Cup
Sit start, R) hand on arête. Go up and left. | V2 | 2m | |||||
9 | ★ Wallflower | 5.8 | 10m | |||||
10 | ★ Golden Mongrel | 5.9 | 25m | |||||
11 |
★★ Stroll on
Warning Access: 08-22 Extremely overgrown | 5.10c | 40m | |||||
12 | ★★ Turbocharger | 5.11c | 12m | |||||
13 | ★★ Talking Holds | 5.10a | 15m | |||||
14 | Sideshow | 5.10c | 15m |
1.4.6. Lower Tier 13 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Gord's Block
FA: Jim Campbell & Gord Menzies | 5.10d | 8m | |||
2 |
Spice of Life
FA: Alan Stevenson & Erica Olson, 2014 | 5.10b | 12m | |||
3 |
★ Retiring Joe
FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 2000 | 5.11c | 12m, 4 | |||
4 |
Jagged Little Pill
FA: Alan Stevenson & Erica Olson, 2014 | 5.7 | 12m | |||
5 |
Vegetation Management
Quality climbing on the first half, leading to an overgrown crack and a mossy/dirty slab on the second half. FA: John Harvey, 2014 | 5.5 | 12m | |||
6 |
★★ The Ugly Gate
Great clean line with a few different options for the start. It's a must do on this face! FA: John Harvey, 2014 | 5.8 | 12m | |||
7 |
In Harmony with Sausage
FA: John Harvey, 2014 | 5.10b | 12m | |||
8 |
Grunt
FA: John Rollins & Jim Campbell, 1981 | 5.9 | 15m | |||
9 |
The Technician
The bolted face is much harder than it looks FA: Marc Andre Leclerc | 5.12b | 15m, 3 | |||
10 |
★★ Easter Island
FA: J, M Coope, C. Doig, J. Campbell & Peter Croft | 5.8 | 15m | |||
11 |
★★ Out To Lunge
FA: Jim Campbell & J. Rollins | 5.10b | 18m | |||
12 |
Payanoia
FA: Drew Brayshaw (solo) | 5.9 | 12m | |||
13 | ★ Out to Easter | 5.9 |
1.4.7. Upper Crag X 19 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Snorter
Small over hang roof | 5.8 | 12m | |||
2 |
★★ Sniffler
Small over hang roof on the other side of previous route | 5.8 | 12m | |||
3 | X-Ray | 5.10+ | 12m | |||
4 | Virgin Soil | 5.10c | 22m | |||
5 | Outer Mongolia | 5.11c | 35m | |||
6 | ★ Cosmic Debris | 5.12b | 18m | |||
7 | Easy Does It | 5.10c | ||||
8 | ★★ Fingerlickin' Good | 5.11a | 18m | |||
9 | Up From Despair | 5.10c | 15m | |||
10 | Castle Creep | 5.11b | 15m | |||
11 | ★ Sunny November | 5.9 | 15m | |||
12 | ★ Friction Addiction | 5.10b | 12m | |||
13 | ★ Bucky ki-yea | 5.10c | 18m | |||
14 |
★ Mamquam River Campground
The arete just right of Sunny November. | 5.9 | 15m | |||
15 | No Trace | 5.7 | 15m | |||
16 | ★★ Affordable | 5.6 | 15m | |||
17 | ★ Non-profit | 5.8 | 15m | |||
18 | Four-season | 5.7 | 15m | |||
19 | ★ #vanlife | 5.6 | 15m |
1.5. Alexis 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.702955, -123.141036
description
A Hydro tower sits on the top of this cliff. There are 3 short cracks and anoth climb on the right. There is a sign on the cliff warning about the hydro tower and nearby houses.
approach
From the end of Burger and Fries Wall at Libya sucks, follow the stair and path to the hydro tower.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Alexis Cracks
2 obvious cracks - one on the left, the other on the right. With a third possible choice of taking a diagonal from the right to the left. Short, but sweet. Bolted anchors at the top of both. | 5.7 | 9m | |||||
2 |
★ White Streak
On the right side of the cliff are 3 bolts, with a high first bolt. Boulder through the tough, thin, and probably unprotectable start to a stance where it gets slightly less steep to clip the first bolt. (Or use a really long stick-clip.) Then climb the thin face up from there. | 5.10c | 9m, 3 |
1.6. Black Zawn and Environs 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.708389, -123.141074
1.6.1. The Black Zawn 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Slipping Clutch | 5.10b | 30m | |||
2 | Token Brits Direct | 5.10d | 30m | |||
3 | Perfidious Albion | 5.11a | 30m |
1.7. Cabin Boy's Office 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.707238, -123.140467
description
This overgrown crag has been fully rejuvenated. It is located just left of the Laughing Crack slab and is reached via the same trail.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Zigidy Zags
Finger Crack start. Last bolt common with The Lumpy Way FA: Mike Duffy & Dave Gauley | 5.10a | 15m, 1 | |||
2 |
★ The Lumpy Way
Second route on the wall (from the left). | 5.10b | 20m, 2 | |||
3 |
★ The Way of the Wife
3rd route on the wall. Fun mixed climb | 5.10b | 20m, 2 | |||
4 |
★★ Peaceful Warrior
Start in a wide slot on the left side of a thin pillar. Climb it then veer left along a prominent, diagonal crack. Pleasant climbing. SR to 2” FA: Mike Duffy & Jeremy Dunning, 1998 | 5.9 | 17m | |||
5 |
★★ Dugh!
Start up Peaceful Warrior, but continue directly upward along broken cracks SR to 2” FA: Mike Duffy & Doug McClenand, 1998 | 5.8 | 17m | |||
6 |
★★ Cabin Boys
Start up Dugh, and then step right at the bolt and follow the flake up. Do some mantles, then finish through an overhanging cave feature above. | 5.10d | 30m, 2 | |||
7 |
★ Irie Ites Man
start on the jumbled blocks and climb up the left side of a large flake with mediocre pro, clip the bolt, then smear up the slab. when you hit the large ledge with a fixed rope, pull through a short vertical section on the left and into an easy crack system. FA: John Harvey, 2012 | 5.10a | 22m, 2 | |||
8 |
Chainsaw Massacre
Climb the right rise of the Irie Ites Man flake, and continue straight up past the large ledge. | 5.10d | 25m, 3 | |||
9 |
Wet Dream
Climb up the often wet corner. | 5.10a | 25m | |||
10 |
Eagle Claw
Climb the start of Wet Dream, then break out up a thin seam on the gently overhanging wall. | 5.12d | 25m |
1.8. Krack Rock 17 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.707631, -123.140888
description
Small crag near the parking.
Be careful with the Squamish Select guide book (2012 edition, at least), because the picture is only of the right half of the crag, which is not at all clear at first.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Hot Crazy Matrix
FA: Alan Stevenson & Erica Olson, 2015 | 5.10d | 14m, 2 | |||||
2 |
The Retiree
FA: Harry Young, 2013 | 5.8 | 22m | |||||
3 |
The Beached Whale
FA: Harry Young, 2013 | 5.8 | 22m | |||||
4 |
★ Mooshie Corner
FA: S. Lee & Harry Young, 2013 | 5.10d | 23m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Lots of climbs left of On Sight Inc are not described or pictured in the 2002 edition of Squamish Select. This is not clear from the guide or photo itself. (Nor route listing and topo photo herein, as it was taken from a similar vantage point.) | ||||||||
6 |
★★ On Sight Inc.
Climb the clean-looking left-leaning crack left of Fairy Ring. The crack angles across above the break in the face the creates a bit of a roof. | 5.8 | 25m | |||||
7 |
★★ Silly Cat
Follow On Sight Equipment Inc until you can step right into a finger crack. | 5.10a | 30m | |||||
8 |
★ Fairy Ring
Climb the hand-sized to wider crack near the center of the cliff. FA: Dave Jones | 5.6 | 20m | |||||
9 |
★ Turkey Dinner
FA: J & L Kokotailo | 5.7 | 20m | |||||
10 |
Lonely Thunder
FA: Eric Clemson | 5.9 | 20m | |||||
11 |
★ Koko Crack
FA: J & L Kokotailo | 5.10a | 20m | |||||
12 |
Popsickle
A crack diagonally up and left; the last distinct crack line left of the mixture of broken cracks in dark rock that is Pieces of Eight. | 5.7 | 18m | |||||
13 |
Pieces of Eight Left
The dark streak on the right side of the wall with a bunch of nearby and broken cracks up it can be climbed in a multitude of ways at varying degrees of difficulty. FA: D Jones & S Sheffield | 5.7 | 15m | |||||
14 |
Pieces of Eight Right
The right end of the Pieces of Eight section has some harder lines. FA: D Jones & S Sheffield | 5.10c | 15m | |||||
15 |
Hornet's Delight
FA: D Jones & S Sheffield | 5.10b | 10m | |||||
The following climbs are up and right from the main section of Krack Rock. | ||||||||
17 | Gumby | 5.10c | 22m, 6 | |||||
18 |
Pokey
high first bolt, recommended to use a stick clip. | 5.10d | 22m, 3 | |||||
19 | Blockheads | 5.11a | 20m, 1 |
1.9. Smoke Bluff Wall and Environs 36 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706519, -123.140380
1.9.1. Mosquito Area 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706612, -123.140287
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Alice | 5.8 | 35m | |||
2 | ★ Pinball Machine | 5.10b | 22m | |||
3 | ★ S-M's Delight | 5.10b | 25m | |||
4 |
★★ Rock'n'Roll
Starts up open book corner, and finishes through offwidth corner at top, left of balanced boulder | 5.10b | 25m | |||
5 | No-See-Um | 5.10b | 35m | |||
6 | Drugs | 5.10b | 35m | |||
7 | Sex | 5.10b | 35m | |||
8 |
★★ Mosquito
Solid 5.8. Climb the finger-to-hand layback crack through a bulge to easier climbing above. FA: Jim Campbell & Alun Hughes, 1980 | 5.8 | 25m | |||
9 |
★★ Smoke Bluff Connection
Link these 4 climbs into a good multipitch: Mosquito, Phlegmish Dance, Jabberwocky, Wonderland | 5.10a | 90m, 4 | |||
10 |
★★★ Malaria (aka Noseeum)
Climb past a triangular block and move right into a V-shaped chimney. FA: Joe Turley & George Hanzal, 2008 | 5.9 | 25m | |||
11 | ★★ Sphinx'ter Quits | 5.8 | 25m, 4 | |||
12 |
★ Seam of Destiny
Climb the ramp just left of Sphinx'ter, continuing up the thin crack above to chains | 5.10b | 25m | |||
13 |
Curry the Dog
Route directly above the anchor for S-M Delight. Climb a choppy finger to hand crack straight to the anchor. Gear placement is tricky. | 5.8 | 15m | |||
14 |
Alien Sex Fiends
FA: kevin maclean | 5.11a | ||||
15 |
★★ Phlegmish Dance
FA: Peter Croft (solo), 1978 | 5.8 | 15m |
1.9.2. Upper Levels 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706901, -123.140292
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Laughing Crack
Well protected finger crack. You could probably climb it with just nuts. FA: Glenn Payan, 1995 | 5.7 | 25m | |||
2 |
★★ Resoler
FA: Jeff Thompson | 5.12a | 25m | |||
3 |
★ Sweet Pea
FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan | 5.11d | 32m | |||
4 |
Senile Saunter
FA: R Barley & C Mullard | 5.10c | 30m | |||
5 |
★ Outrage
FA: D Jones | 5.10d | ||||
6 |
Indignation
FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komon | 5.11a A0 | 25m | |||
7 |
Long Distance Feeling
FA: Peter Croft & Tami Knight | 5.11a | 25m | |||
8 |
★★ Sparky's Crack
FA: Joe Turley | 5.8 | 25m | |||
9 |
Goobledegook
FA: R Barley & P Shackleton | 5.8 | 25m | |||
10 |
★★ Jabberwocky
FA: Tami Knight & Peter Croft, 1978 | 5.10b | 20m | |||
11 |
★★ Wonderland
FA: R. Barley, P. Shackleton & C. Murrell, 1981 | 5.9 | 30m | |||
12 | Just Say No To Crack | 5.13a | 20m, 6 |
1.9.3. Zombie Roof Area 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706783, -123.140583
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
So
FA: Jeff Thompson | 5.12a | 12m | |||
2 |
Black and Decker
FA: Dean Hart, Scott Young & Bob Milward | 5.11a | 15m | |||
3 |
★★ Savage Amusement
FA: Jim Sandford | 5.13b | 20m | |||
4 |
★★★ Zombie Roof
FA: Peter Croft | 5.13a | 20m | |||
5 |
★★ Jacob's Ladder
FA: Jim Sanford | 5.12b | 15m | |||
6 |
★★ Old Age
Adventurous route up the right-hand corner of zombie roof. Look intimidating but is wildly fun. Past extremely large dubious boulder to rap rings. Take lots of extendable draws. FA: Bob Milward, Peter Shackleton & Robin Barley | 5.9 | 27m | |||
7 |
Through the Never
FA: Jim Sandford | 5.13c | 20m |
1.9.4. Battered Balls 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706142, -123.140566
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Battered Balls | 5.10d | 12m | |||
2 | ★ Finger Rippin' Good | 5.10b |
1.10. Neat and Cool 58 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles
Lat / Long: 49.705722, -123.140136
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Mr. B
Short climb above the climbs that start on Cat crack ledge. Hand crack to face with single bolt. | 5.7 | 12m | |||||
2 |
Unknown
Hand crack to the right of Mr. B. Starts above the climbs originating from Cat crack ledge. | 5.7 | 12m | |||||
3 |
The Little Baby
Off-width to the right of "On My Way to the Liquor Store". | 5.8 | 15m | |||||
4 |
On My Way to the Liquor Store
Thin seam to the right of "Who Needs Apps?". | 5.10c | 15m | |||||
5 |
Who Needs Apps?
Groove and cracks to the right of "Pink Flamingo" on the lower wall. | 5.8 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Pink Flamingo
This climb starts in the woods, below the ledge that Cat Crack (and others) climb from along the left side of the cliff. Climb up the obvious wide dike with jugs, putting a cam (2") in the horizontal break then up the 3 bolts above. | 5.10b | 15m, 3 | |||||
7 |
★ Barefoot Flamingo in China
Start up the same wide dike that Pink Flamingo climbs, but when the dyke splits, follow the wider section left; step left into a crack along the left side of the face and follow this crack and the dike up to the ledge. An easier link-up that avoids the low crux of "Barefoot in China Town". | 5.6 PG | 15m | |||||
8 |
Barefoot in China Town
Start left of Pink Flamingo with a hard move down low, then jog left near the top. | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
9 |
★ Raging Duck
On the lower wall, left of the gully, climb the short face past 5 bolts. | 5.10b | 18m, 5 | |||||
10 |
Chalk Up Another One
FA: Jim Campbell & Scott Young | 5.8 | 10m | |||||
11 |
★ Repeat When Necessary
FA: Kon Kraft, Jon Manuel & Debbie Schildt | 5.9 | 10m | |||||
12 |
★★ A Necessary Evil
FA: Ivan Christianson Rolf Rybak & Todd Guyn | 5.10b | 15m, 3 | |||||
13 |
★★★ Service with a Smile
Jam the left-most crack. Great warm-up with flat landing! Squamish Bouldering Page 367. FA: Jamie Selda, 2012 | V0 | ||||||
14 | ★ Stumps | 5.8 | 15m | |||||
15 |
★ Sally Five Fingers
FA: Kon Kraft & John Manuel, 1979 | 5.8 | 15m | |||||
16 | ★ Treebeard | 5.7 | ||||||
17 |
★ The Jigsaw Flow
FA: Glenn Payan & John Thompson | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
18 |
★★ Cat Crack
FA: Tami Knight & Peter Croft, 1978 | 5.7 | 20m | |||||
19 | ★★ Cat Scan | 5.10c | 20m, 3 | |||||
20 |
★★ Mousetrap
There is a ledge accessible from the right with a few birches on it, beside a huge detached boulder. (About 1/2 the height of the ledge from which Cat Crack starts.) Climb the obvious crack, passing right of a pine tree about half way up the cliff. Shares the finish with The Edge and Corner Crack. FA: Jeremy Frimer, 2010 | 5.7 | 25m | |||||
21 |
★ Corner Crack
FA: Carl Austrom, 1977 | 5.8 | 28m | |||||
22 |
★ The Edge
Climb either side of the large detached boulder until you reach the face right of Mouse Trap, which has 3 bolts on it. Climb the face, without using the crack to the left. Finish up the final corner of Mouse Trap / Corner Crack. FA: Joe Turley & Gene Smith | 5.10a | 20m, 3 | |||||
23 |
★★★ Flying Circus
FA: Dick Mitten & Dave Lane, 1977 | 5.10a | 25m | |||||
24 |
★★ Fear of Flying
Start on Flying Circus then split right onto the face and follow the bolts. FA: Peter Hiltner & Pat Post | 5.11a | 25m, 2 | |||||
25 |
★ Lieback Flake
Bolted anchor at top | 5.9 | 25m | |||||
26 |
★ Cornflakes
FA: Nick Didlick & Mike Goetz, 1976 | 5.7 | 25m | |||||
27 |
The Offwidth
Offwidth just left of Neat and Cool. Dirty at top. | 5.10a | 25m | |||||
28 | ★★★ Neat and Cool | 5.10a | 30m | |||||
29 |
★★ Coffee Break
FA: Sheila Ilcisin & John Manuel | 5.8 | 15m | |||||
30 |
Wasted Days and Wasted Nights
FA: Kon Kraft & Debbie Schildt | 5.5 | 15m | |||||
31 |
1000 Pardons
FA: Glenn Payan & John Thompson | 5.8 | 28m | |||||
32 |
★★ Nice and Easy
FA: Andrew Boyd | 5.11b | 25m | |||||
33 |
★ Gross Incompetence
FA: Robin Barley & Howie Richardson | 5.9 | 25m | |||||
34 |
★★ House Music
Start on Gross Incompetence, but follow the slab up past two bolts once you reach the tree on the horizontal break. FA: Dean Hart & Randy Atkinson | 5.10c | 25m, 2 | |||||
35 | ★ Geritol | 5.10c | 20m, 2 | |||||
36 |
Where Ancients Fear to Tread
FA: Richard Suddaby & Robin Barley | 5.10c | 20m | |||||
37 |
Toasted Tits
FA: Kai Hirvonen | 5.11c | 20m | |||||
38 |
★ Hans Groper
Climb drill holes then follow the bolts next to the arete. Bolted anchor FA: John Howe & Robin Barley | 5.10c | 20m, 3 | |||||
39 | ★★ Kangaroo Corner | 5.11a | 15m | |||||
40 |
★★ Flaming Kangaroo
FA: Andrew Boyd | 5.11a | 15m | |||||
41 |
There You Go Andy
FA: Peter Croft & Tami Knight | 5.12c | 15m | |||||
42 |
★★ King of Rock
FA: Peter Croft & Tami Knight | 5.12c | 15m | |||||
43 |
Psychopath
FA: Peter Croft, Paul Fodchuk & Tami Knight | 5.11c | 10m | |||||
44 |
Ali Bhutto
FA: Peter Croft & Tami Knight | 5.11a | 15m | |||||
45 |
Screaming Frenchie
FA: George Henzal & Gary Henning | 5.11b | 15m | |||||
46 |
Pit Bull
FA: George Hanzal & Gary Henning | 5.12a | 15m | |||||
47 |
★ Twisted
FA: Rick Clements & Joe Buszowski | 5.10c | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
48 | ★ Neat and Clean | 5.7 | 20m | |||||
49 |
★ Lucky Loonie
Starts right of Neat and Clean. We went up right leaning crack and then up the slabs above the crack, but no anchor at the top. So ended up using the same anchor as Neat and Clean. FA: Pete Hill & Jesse Brown, 2003 | 5.10a | 20m | |||||
50 | ★ Clean Starts | 5.7 | 8m | |||||
51 | ★★★ Geritol Arête | V0+ | ||||||
52 | ★ Pulp Fiction | V2 | ||||||
53 | ★★ Da Kid Zone | V0 | ||||||
54 | ★★ Al Fresco | V0+ | ||||||
55 | ★★ Failed Apocalypse | V0- | ||||||
56 | ★★★ Dirtbag | V0 | ||||||
57 | ★★★ Muddy waters | V10 |
1.10.1. Neat and Cool Boulders 1 route in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Winding Down | V0 | 3m |
1.11. Lunch Break Wall 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.705024, -123.139133
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Coffee Time
FA: 2004 | 5.9 | 8m, 3 | |||
2 |
★ Bernie
Crack to the right of Coffee Time FA: 2003 | 5.6 | 8m |
1.12. Penny Lane 43 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.705092, -123.137750
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Mirage
FA: Bryan Beard & Ray Parker | 5.11a | ||||||
2 |
★ War Horse
FA: Jeff Thompson | 5.11d | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 | ★★ Clandestine Affair | 5.9 | 25m | |||||
4 |
Clandestine Direct Start
Direct start, steep then balancy. | 5.10d | 30m | |||||
5 |
★★★ The Yorkshire Gripper
FA: Peter Croft & Robin Barley, 1981 | 5.11b | 25m | |||||
6 | ★ Knob Hopping | 5.11a | 20m | |||||
7 |
★★ Popeye and the Raven
FA: Joe Turley & Gene Smith, 1981 | 5.10c | 25m, 4 | |||||
8 |
★★ Quarryman
Protecting the boulder at the bottom is a good idea. Nice mellow climbing to a vertical section heading left into a great crack to the anchors. Good protection FA: Robin Barley & Chuck Mullard, 1981 | 5.8 | 25m | |||||
9 |
★ Tougher Quarryman
The Direct finish. | 5.10b | 25m | |||||
10 |
★ Health Hazard
FA: Robin Barley & Dale Cody, 1981 | 5.10a | 25m, 2 | |||||
11 |
The Last Post
FA: Kevin McLane, B Protsch & Joe Turley | 5.11d | 25m | |||||
12 |
Weenie
FA: Scott Flavelle & J. Howe | 5.11c | 25m | |||||
13 |
★ Short People
FA: Peter Croft, D. Fulton & P. Kindree | 5.11a | 25m | |||||
14 |
Don't Trust Shorty
FA: Jesse Brown & Graeme Taylor | 5.12c | 25m | |||||
15 |
Jangling Ball Wall
FA: Scott Flavelle | 5.11b | 30m | |||||
16 |
★ Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies
FA: Dale Caldwell | 5.11c | ||||||
17 | ★★ Up Up and Away | 5.9 | 30m | |||||
18 | ★★★ Total Fascination | 5.13b | ||||||
19 |
The Cedar Prism
FA: Andrew Boyd FFA: Ben Harnden, 2019 | 5.13c R | 15m | |||||
20 | ★★ Witch Doctor's Apprentice | 5.9 | 25m | |||||
21 | ★ Power Windows | 5.11a | 20m | |||||
22 |
Kahoukers
FA: Jeremy Blumel | 5.12b | 25m | |||||
23 |
★★★ Crime of the Century
Set: Anders Ourom FA: Peter Croft & Tami Knight, 1978 | 5.11c | 15m | |||||
24 |
Shaky The Moyle
FA: K Mortensen & Dale Caldwell | 5.11c | 10m | |||||
25 |
★★★ Penny Lane
Follow the nice finger crack that widens large hands at the top. Belay the second from the top. Either walk down or rappel down "Crime of the Century" FFA: Anders Ourom & John Arts, 1978 | 5.9 | 30m | |||||
26 |
Some Face Moves
FA: J Brodie & M Campbell | 5.11b | 30m | |||||
27 |
★ Satan's Slit
Big Bro? FA: Anders Ourum & L. Soet | 5.6 | 30m | |||||
28 |
★★★ Sunny Days In December
FA: Peter Croft | 5.12b | 35m | |||||
29 | ★★ Climb and Punishment / Crime and Punishment? | 5.10d | 20m | |||||
30 |
★★★ Partners in Crime
Layback and jam your way up the beautiful finger splitter. FA: K. Rajala & Chris Cooper, 1976 FFA: Randy Atkinson & Anders Ourom, 1978 FA: Andy Healy & Colin Moorhead, 2008 | 5.11a | 25m | |||||
31 | ★ The Ugly American | 5.10a | 25m | |||||
32 | ★ Grumpy Old Men | 5.11c | 23m | |||||
33 |
★ The Curver
FA: Sonnie Trotter, 2007 | 5.13a | 28m | |||||
34 | Piggy's Perversions | 5.8 | 20m | |||||
35 | ★ Rolf's Route | 5.11b | 20m | |||||
36 | ★★ Werewolves of London | 5.11a | 35m, 1 | |||||
37 | Stiff Upper Lip | 5.10d | 25m | |||||
38 | Mr. Bad Example | 5.10d | 22m | |||||
39 | Unknown | 5.11c | 30m | |||||
40 | Hangover | 5.10d | 12m | |||||
41 | Roving Band of Quails | 5.10c | 12m | |||||
42 | ★★ Girth | 5.12b | 10m | |||||
43 | Slightly Overhung Corner | 5.10a | 10m |
1.13. Bughouse Heights 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.705867, -123.138877
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Fata Morgana | 5.10a | 40m | |||
2 |
The Seam
Direct start to sting in the tail. 3 bolts and a small cam. Slabby seam - technical. | 5.11b | 3 | |||
3 | Sting in the Tail | 5.10c | 30m | |||
4 | Tail Wind | 5.10b | 30m | |||
5 | Robin's Route | 5.11b | 30m | |||
6 | ★ Pussy’s Galore | 5.10b | 30m | |||
7 |
Twin Peaks of Kilimanjaro
Tricky slab climbing around the arete of the high first bolt and the difficulties decrease. | 5.10c | ||||
8 |
The Hybrid
Bouldery off the ground then into a well-featured but occasionally spaced bolted slab. | 5.11a | ||||
9 |
Sudden Impact
An old Jim Sanford route takes stellar finger-sized gear at the top and well-bolted throughout. | 5.11a | ||||
10 |
Jade
Run-out off the deck. Not recommended for a new to 5.9 leader. | 5.9 R | ||||
11 |
Robin's Other Other Route
Harder left-hand finish. | 5.10d | 30m |
1.14. Split Beaver 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706282, -123.138133
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Heavenly Ladder | 5.9 | 20m | |||
2 | ★★ Orifice Fish | 5.9 | 20m | |||
3 |
★★★ Split Beaver
Pull through a small boulder problem just off the ground, then climb the ever-widening crack to the top! | 5.10b | 30m | |||
4 | Organ Failure | 5.11c | 15m | |||
5 | ★★ Salal Jam | 5.8 | 12m | |||
6 | ★★ Asleep At The Wheel | 5.8 | 30m | |||
7 | Crimson Crack | 5.10b | 20m | |||
8 | Silhouette Arete | 5.10d | 30m | |||
9 | Sportive Tricks | 5.10c | ||||
10 |
Bright future
Smear up the Arete right of Asleep at the Wheel | 5.11d | 14m, 4 | |||
11 | Poorly Groomed | 5.11c | 15m | |||
12 | Pebbledash | 5.11d | 12m |
1.15. Lumberland 24 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.707952, -123.139381
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The Queen of Huups
Follow the obvious crack on the far left side of the wall. | 5.6 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | Netsky | 5.10d | 1 | |||||
3 | ★★ The GMB | 5.10a | 20m | |||||
4 | ★ Maple Syrup / Maple Cream | 5.10d | 2 | |||||
5 |
★ Lumberland
Follow a diagonal crack up and transition to a thin vertical finger crack. | 5.10b | 20m | |||||
6 |
Its a Roller
Follow the line of bolts up to an overhanging right facing corner. | 5.10b | 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 | ★★ Crowd Pleaser | 5.8 | ||||||
8 | ★ Erica | 5.10b | 16m | |||||
9 | Jade | 5.10d | 16m | |||||
10 | ★ Checkmark, Left start | 5.7 | ||||||
11 | ★★ Checkmark, Right start | 5.6 | 14m | |||||
12 | Masquerade | 5.10b | 12m, 2 | |||||
13 | ★ Birthday Boy | 5.7 | 12m, 2 | |||||
14 | ★ Birthday Girl | 5.6 | 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 | Pot Step | 5.10b | 15m | |||||
16 | Just Jackin' | 5.10d | 15m | |||||
17 | Zephyr Girls | 5.6 | 18m | |||||
18 | Colleen | 5.8 | 15m, 2 | |||||
19 | Kristen | 5.8 | 18m | |||||
20 | Business Time | 5.11d | 15m | |||||
21 | One-Shot Latte | 5.8 | 18m | |||||
22 | Lensman | 5.10 | 2 | |||||
23 | ★ Batter Up! | 5.9 | 20m | |||||
24 | Missing Chris | 5.10b | 20m |
1.16. 2nd Ave 24 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.707496, -123.138904
description
just a short walk right of lumber land wall. A combination of trad and mixed climbing
1.16.1. 2nd Ave, Left 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Dragons and Aliens | 5.8 | 13m, 2 | |||||
2 | Armchair Raver | 5.6 | 12m | |||||
3 | Drowning Fish | 5.5 | 12m | |||||
4 | Family Portrait | 5.8 | 12m | |||||
5 | ★ Wired | 5.9 | 12m, 1 | |||||
6 | ★ Lovebolt | 5.7 | 12m, 1 | |||||
7 | ★ TeoLand | 5.9 | 12m, 3 | |||||
8 | Chuckies Choice | 5.6 | 12m | |||||
9 | Secret Sweater Society | 5.5 | 12m | |||||
10 | Trippin on Salal | 5.4 | 12m |
1.16.2. 2nd Ave, Lower Right 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
description
These climbs may be done as a multi pitch or can be linked to the climbs in '2nd Ave, Upper' to make one longer climb.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Climb ON | 5.8 | 15m, 3 | |||||
2 | ★★ Sub Par Intelect | 5.9 | 15m, 4 | |||||
3 | Come Back | 5.8 | 15m, 1 | |||||
4 | ★ 2nd Ave | 5.6 | 15m | |||||
5 | Wren | 5.9 | 15m, 3 | |||||
6 | The Runner | 5.8 | 15m | |||||
7 | Checkerboard Arete | 5.5 | 15m |
1.16.3. 2nd Ave, Upper Right 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
description
The upper section to 2nd Ave Right. These climbs may be done as a multi pitch from lower climbs or can be linked to make one longer climb from routes below
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Out West
A nice layback crux at the beginning. Finish with a pretty long runout. Can be connected in one long climb with 'Wren' as a 60m rope will (barely) reach the ground. | 5.10- | 12m, 4 | |||||
2 | The Chairman | 5.8 | 12m, 3 | |||||
3 | ★ Every Man and His Dog | 5.8 | 12m, 3 | |||||
4 | ★ Español | 5.8 | 12m, 2 | |||||
5 | Valhalla Pur | 5.8 | 12m |
1.16.4. Nubile Woman 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.707286, -123.138623
summary
A small cliff just to the right of 2nd Ave. Has two solid climbs on it.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Nubile Woman | 5.10a | 22m | |||
2 | ★★ Old Maid | 5.10a | 20m |
1.17. Split Asunder 34 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.708862, -123.139108
summary
Split Asunder is a redeveloped crag (2023) that was lost for a period of time and reclaimed back to the forest. Rescrubbed by ACC Squamish in 2022 it is now open with many new routes.
description
Split Asunder is an old Crag originally developed by Robin Barley, and rediscovered in late 2022. Over the winter Ryan Pierce scrubbed the rock and replaced all the old hardware. In the spring a few work sessions were held with ACC Squamish to finish up the last of the cleaning.
Split Asunder hosts numerous routes in the 10- range from crack climbing to crimpy sport and even a must-do chimney.
approach
Hike up to the base of Lumberland via the loop trail, when at the bottom of Lumberland follow a rough path on the left side up a short hill. When at the top of the short hill, Split Asunder will be visible through the trees off to your left. Follow the trail left and loop around passing a beautiful viewpoint with a bench. Shortly after this, a path leading to the base will appear on your right.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Midnight Mover | 5.10- | 2 | |||||
2 | Enigmatic | 5.10- | 3 | |||||
3 | Cruiser | 5.9 | ||||||
4 | This Way, That Way | 5.10+ | 5 | |||||
5 | ★★ Fell on Bart | 5.10+ | ||||||
6 | Digestive Track | 5.8 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 | Bile Oozer | 5.10+ | ||||||
8 | Open Project 1 | |||||||
9 | Witty | 5.11 | 2 | |||||
10 | ★★ Shirker | 5.10- | ||||||
11 | ★ Trench Warfare | 5.10- | ||||||
12 | ★★ Trench Evader | 5.10- | ||||||
13 | ★★ Root Canal | 5.9 | ||||||
14 | Mantleshelf Man | 5.10- | 2 | |||||
15 |
★★★ The Beef
Starting with a tall reach to jugs, climb through a tricky seam on specific gear to a rest under a large bulge. Surmount the beefy bulge to delicate slab. Sharpen your edges. Directly left of Mantleshelf Man. Does not share the same start. SR to 3" FA: Evan Beatty, 18 Aug 2023 | 5.12c | 15m, 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
16 | ★★ Little Slanter | 5.10- | ||||||
17 | ★ Old Dog, New Tricks | 5.10- | ||||||
18 | Bean is Best | 5.8 | ||||||
19 | ★ The Moment | 5.10d | 1 | |||||
20 | Closed Project | 6 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
21 |
★★ Split Asunder
Wiggle into the deep chasm and worm your way to the top. Body size can really swing the grade in either direction. If your a smaller human the exit may be more challenging. | 5.8 | 4 | |||||
22 | ★★★ Arete Asunder | 5.8 | 4 | |||||
23 | Alderus Stumpledore | 5.8 | ||||||
24 | La-Tea-Da | 5.8 | ||||||
25 |
★★★ Black Sheep
Start down low, left of ledge. Boulder through a roof gaining a comfortable stance. Continue up the direct seam to the anchor. Reaching out for "La-Tea-Da" crack lowers the grade to 5.10a. FA: Evan Beatty, 8 Sep 2023 | 5.11c | 22m | |||||
26 | ★★ Baby Boomstick | 5.8 | 4 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
27 | Ephemeral | 5.9 | ||||||
28 | Catwalk | 5.7 | ||||||
29 | Amy’s Huckleberry | 5.8 | ||||||
30 | Forgotten Tears | 5.8 | ||||||
31 | ★★★ Confluence Crack | 5.8 | ||||||
32 | Sunny Summit | 5.10- | 2 | |||||
33 | Sunny Direct | 5.11- | ||||||
34 | Closed Project 3 |
1.18. Respiration Rock 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706416, -123.135664
summary
The large overhanging section with some nice cracks
approach
On the path going north towards Funarama will be a large overhanging section on the right.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Coronary Bypass
Cool roof crack with sinker hand jams to pull through the lip. FA: Carl Austrom & Dave Jones, 1983 | 5.10a | 17m | |||
2 | ★ Thorax Complaint | 5.10d | 20m |
1.19. Funarama 40 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706903, -123.135810
description
Cracks and slabs.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Monkey Song
FA: Robin Barley & Harry Young, 2008 | 5.10b | 22m, 2 | |||||
2 | I'm No Believer | 5.11c | 23m | |||||
3 |
★★ First Class
A bouldery start turns into a very fun crack climb. finishes with short thin crack section. FA: Dave Jones & Dave Harris, 1983 | 5.9 | 25m | |||||
4 |
Working Class
Consider aiding off the single bolt to make it a fun 5.9 A0. Worth doing. | 5.11c | 28m | |||||
5 | Armspan | 5.12b | 28m | |||||
6 | ★★ Classless | 5.10d | 28m | |||||
7 |
★★★ Squatter's Rights
An extremely nice hand crack to the right of the of the off width makes for a very fun climb. FA: Dave Jones & Carl Austrom, 1983 | 5.7 | 28m | |||||
8 | ★ Smallpox | 5.10d | 20m, 2 | |||||
9 |
Backhoe
Giant off width crack just left of Smallpox | 5.6 | 20m | |||||
10 |
★ Funkarama
Left side of the off width crack. Stay on the right side of the bolts. You can use the other side of the crack to make the climb easier. | 5.10c | 25m, 4 | |||||
11 |
The Seamstress
Use the thin cracks on the left of the first bolt on 'Funkarama' and go straight up. | 5.10d | 25m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 | S Express | 5.11c | 17m | |||||
13 | ★★ Juneuary | 5.10b | 18m | |||||
14 | Futurama | 5.10c | 18m | |||||
15 | The White Mile | 5.10c | 17m | |||||
16 | Make it Monkey | 5.10d | 16m, 4 | |||||
17 |
Funny
A crack to the immediate right of the short section. Can also be used to drop a top rope for that section. | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
18 | Short and Snappy | 5.10b | 8m | |||||
19 | Funtastic | 5.7 | 8m | |||||
20 | Fun | 5.9 | 9m | |||||
21 | Ethan's Crack | 5.6 | 9m | |||||
22 | Funky | 5.7 | 10m | |||||
23 |
Do the Roar
Start left of 'Funky' and climb up the thin crack. Leads into diagonal crack of 'September Song' | 5.10d | 18m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
24 | September Song | 5.10c | 18m | |||||
25 | ★ Sweet Songster | 5.10d | 20m, 3 | |||||
26 |
★★ Point Blank
FA: Rolf Rybak & K. Rybak, 1982 | 5.9 | 18m | |||||
27 | Hands Off, Harry! | 5.11b | 16m, 6 | |||||
28 |
The Crystal Maze
FA: Harry Young & Robin Barley, 2008 | 5.12c | 16m, 5 | |||||
29 |
★★ Funarama
FA: Rolf Rybak & K. Rybak, 1982 | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
30 |
★★ Funarampa
FA: Robin Barley & Harry Young, 2008 | 5.8 | 18m, 1 | |||||
31 | Pliocene Ape | 5.10c | 20m | |||||
32 | Ramapithecus | 5.10b | 20m | |||||
33 | Mums and Strollers | 5.10c | 19m | |||||
34 |
Czech Chimney
Giant Chimney on the far left of Funarama. | 5.10b | 15m | |||||
35 | NWP | 5.10d | 15m | |||||
36 | Hot 'n Heavy | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
37 |
The French Maid
Just passed Funarama on the way up, small wall on the left. This is the first climb on the left of the wall. FA: Alana, Zavier Derouché & Bryan Kent, 2010 | 5.4 | 12m | |||||
38 |
★ Skidmark Slab
Bolt line on the slab right of The French Maid. FA: Bryan Kent, Alana & Zavier Derouché, 2010 | 5.10a | 15m, 4 | |||||
39 |
★ Things to Do When it Rains
Large flake behind the tree. Bring wide gear. FA: Bryan Kent, Alana & Zavier Derouché, 2010 | 5.4 | 15m | |||||
40 |
★ Crouching Squirrel
Last route on the right of the wall. Two possible starts - similarly hard. Great first trad lead. FA: Bryan Kent, Alana & Zavier Derouché, 2010 | 5.5 | 15m |
1.20. Themyscira 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
summary
Small cliff above Funarama. Unfortunately, only one route has bolts at the top -- the rest have single staples.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
All Mine
Left-slanting hand crack. The only route with bolts on top. | 5.7 | 12m |
1.21. Skunk Hollow 6 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.708981, -123.134510
description
Like Top Shelf but in the Bluffs. A good variety of sandbagged hard cracks which typically seep.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Ryan's Crack
Savage crack (will likely require a scrub after being mossed over) | 5.12b | 12m | |||
2 |
Meet the Clampetts
Perry Beckham mega-sandbag at .10c! | 5.11a | 12m, 2 | |||
3 |
Little Barron
Flake and splitter | 5.11d | 12m | |||
4 | Short and Sweet | 5.11d | 12m | |||
5 | Midlife Crisis | 5.12a | 12m | |||
6 | Don't Touch Me, Tomato | 5.12b |
1.22. Tunnel Rock 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.704384, -123.134360
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ The Master Gleaner
Pleasant crack on the far left side. FA: Robin Barley & Harry Young, 2008 | 5.7 | 25m | |||||
2 |
★★★ Go For Broke
Climb the left crack until it intersects then climb right up the diagonal and then zigzag left to finish. FA: Ted Marks & Joe Turley, 1992 | 5.8 | 30m | |||||
3 |
★★ The Constant Gardener
Like Go For Broke but just continue straight up. FA: Robin Barley & Harry Young, 2008 | 5.8 | 25m | |||||
4 |
★★ Vertical Sine Wave
Start on The Constant Gardener but move right into thin crack and zig zag to the top. FA: Robin Barley & Harry Young, 2008 | 5.10c | 30m, 1 | |||||
5 |
★★ Easy Skankin'
Follow the large Crack in the middle of the wall, over the boulder onto a slopery crux at the finish. | 5.9 | 23m | |||||
6 |
★★ Easy Skankin' (10c)
Start on the slab to the right of Easy Skankin' up into a nice crack and finish on the Easy Skankin' route. | 5.10c | 23m, 2 | |||||
7 |
★★ Sunstroker
Climb a trickey groove onto the flake and finish up the crack. | 5.10a | 23m, 2 | |||||
8 |
★★ Tunnel Vision
Up easy ramp right of the sunstroker arete, gets steeper at top. Rap rings at top. | 5.6 | 17m | |||||
9 |
★★ Three Shot Face
Very tricky slab with only one bolt. | 5.10c | 10m, 1 | |||||
10 |
★ Centralia
Starts right of Three-shot face. Four bolts, including the anchor of Three-shot Face. Shares the anchor with The Power of Leverage (5.10d) climb to the right. Tricky start. FA: Alan Stevenson & Erica Olson, 2014 | 5.10b | 30m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
The Power of Leverage
Up right hand leaning crack to tree and slab past 3 bolts just left of Noonday Ridge. FA: H Duty, E Olson & D Roberts, 2013 | 5.10c | 18m, 3 | |||||
12 |
★★ Noonday Ridge
Follow a long ridge just to the left of the tunnel. FA: Robin Barley & John Howe, 2008 | 5.10b | 25m, 4 | |||||
13 |
★ Tunnelmen
Route up past blocks just left of the tunnel entrance. Once past the blocky section, the climb leads to a right trending crack and rap rings. FA: Robin Barley | 5.8 | 16m |
1.23. Vandalarium 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.704299, -123.134064
description
Mostly sport climbs just right and downhill of 'Tunnel Rock'.
approach
Similar approach as 'Tunnel Rock', there is a climbers path on the right off the main trail just before getting to the porta potty and bike rack that leads to the base of the wall.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Portcullis
FA: Nick Barley & Robin Barley, 2013 | 5.11b | 8m, 2 | |||
2 |
Thin Wire Special
FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2013 | 5.10b | 8m | |||
3 |
George the Staple Slayer
FA: Alan Stevenson & J Jake, 2014 | 5.10b | 9m, 2 | |||
4 |
★ Mooronhead
FA: Alan Stevenson & Brian Moorhead, 2013 | 5.9 | 10m, 3 | |||
5 |
Tetley's Tea Crack
FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2013 | 5.9 | 14m | |||
6 |
★★ The Least Unconformity
FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2013 | 5.7 | 15m, 4 | |||
7 |
Absinthe
FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2013 | 5.10b | 18m, 4 | |||
8 |
The Green Faity
mixed FA: Nick Barley & Robin Barley, 2013 | 5.10d | 16m | |||
9 |
Viridescence
FA: Nick Barley & Robin Barley, 2013 | 5.10d | 15m, 5 | |||
10 |
Vermilion Teardrops
FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2013 | 5.10c | 15m, 4 |
1.24. Call it a Day 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.705947, -123.134927
description
A short crag with many easy trad climbs. Very safe for practicing.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Chopper Malone
Deep crack on the far left of the wall. Tricky finish. | 5.6 | 20m | |||||
2 |
★★ Clean Streak
Nice crack into a tricky open slot. | 5.6 | 20m | |||||
3 |
★★ Ramp-o-rama
Start with crack in the middle wall. Finish on the poorly protected flake or up the Clean Streak crack. | 5.6 | 20m | |||||
4 |
★★ Buster
Twin cracks to a cruxy bulge. | 5.7 | 17m | |||||
5 |
★★ Pee Wee
Start on buster into a very nice and easy crack. | 5.7 | 15m |
1.25. Octopus' Garden 18 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.708249, -123.136848
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Electric Ball | 5.11b | 18m | |||||
2 | ★★ Unearthly Delights | 5.9 | 20m | |||||
3 |
★ Root Canal
FFA: Carl Ausrm FA: Dave Jones, 1983 | 5.8 | 20m | |||||
4 |
★★ Monkey Coefficient
FFA: Dave Jones FA: Don Serl, 1982 | 5.9 | 20m | |||||
5 |
★★ Pipe Dream
FFA: Ray Parker FA: Dave Jones, 1982 | 5.8 | 25m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade
FFA: Dean Hart FA: Ray Parker, 1982 | 5.8 | 20m | |||||
7 |
★★ Leonissisation
Smooth slab FA: Simon Gravel, 2005 | 5.12a | 25m, 10 | |||||
8 |
★ Edible Panties
FFA: Ray Parker FA: Dave Jones, 1982 | 5.7 | 20m | |||||
9 |
★ Call Any Vegetable
FFA: Elaine Cage FA: Ray Parker, 1982 | 5.8 | 20m | |||||
10 |
★ Vegiemite
The right hand finish to Call Any Vegetable, with a fun roof finish. | 5.9 | 25m | |||||
11 |
★ Solstice Crack
FFA: Chris Guest FA: Ray Parker, 1982 | 5.10a | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 | Alan's Corner | 5.8 | ||||||
13 |
up 2u
Climb over a boulder, then follow a crack / shallow corner up as it thins. Continue past 1 bolt. Finish either using another bolt on the arete to the left, or up a hand crack to the right. Anchor with chains on the left. FA: Harry Young, Oct 2021 | 5.10b | 1 | |||||
14 |
★★ Harry's Crack
Climb over a boulder, then follow a nice hands to fist crack to the top. FA: Harry Young, 2003 | 5.8 | 18m | |||||
15 |
★ Crab Cracks
A variety of cracks can be climbed on the left end of the crag. These lead to a ledge on the left side of the cliff. From the ledge, a tricky move past a bolt leads to the same anchor as Harry's crack. | 5.8 | 15m | |||||
16 | ★★★ When Mulhern Was Young | 5.10a | 15m | |||||
17 | Just For Elise | 5.10d | 15m | |||||
18 | McPherson's Fancy | 5.11c | 15m |
1.26. Ronin's Corner 28 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.705357, -123.136049
1.26.1. Left Side 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Free Spirit | 5.10a | 30m | |||
2 | ★ Astral Travels | 5.8 | 30m | |||
3 | ★★ Father and Son | 5.11a | 30m | |||
4 | Eggrolls Dude! | 5.12a | 30m | |||
5 | ★ Opening the Kimono | 5.8 | 28m | |||
6 | Skyhook Logging | 5.8 | 28m | |||
7 | ★ Different Doorways | 5.10b | 25m | |||
8 | ★ Daydream Believer | 5.10b | 25m | |||
9 | OAM - Open Air Mission | 5.10d | 25m | |||
10 | Prisoner of Gravity | 5.11c | 25m | |||
11 | Attitude Adjustment | 5.10a | 25m |
1.26.2. Central 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Deep Breakfast | 5.10a | 15m | |||
2 |
★★ French Toast
FA: Pat Delaney | 5.10b | 15m | |||
3 | ★ The in between | 5.10d | 20m | |||
4 | ★★ Ridge Runner | 5.9 | 25m | |||
5 | ★ Wobbler | 5.10b | 28m | |||
6 | ★ Desperado | 5.10c | 28m | |||
7 | ★ Magical Child | 5.8 | 22m | |||
8 | ★★ Dreams of Passion | 5.11b | 22m | |||
9 | ★ Sky Dancing | 5.10c | 22m | |||
10 | ★★ MCM | 5.6 | 22m | |||
11 | ★★ Sammy the Frog | 5.10c | 30m | |||
12 | Ne'er Do Well | 5.10d | 15m, 4 |
1.26.3. Elephant's Arse 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Elephants Arse Crack | 5.10c | 30m | |||
2 | ★★ Elephants Arse Arete | 5.10b | 30m | |||
3 | ★★ Elephantiasis | 5.10c | 30m | |||
4 | ★ Senate Seat | 5.12a | 20m | |||
5 | ★ Terminator Two | 5.10a | 25m |
1.27. Pink Cliff 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Fidget With Your Digits
FA: John Simms & Dave Vocadlo | 5.10b | 12m | |||
2 |
Bolt It And They Will Come
FA: Ron Goldstone & John Ohler | 5.10c | 20m | |||
3 | ★ People of size | 5.6 | 18m | |||
4 |
★★ Vertically Challenged
FA: Michelle Desjardins & Jim Firstbrook | 5.9 | 20m | |||
5 |
★ Gender Neutral
FA: Michelle Desjardins & Jim Firstbrook | 5.10d | 22m | |||
6 |
★ Pat On The Back
FA: Jeff Thomson & Glenn Payan | 5.10a | 18m | |||
7 | ★ Envirnmentaly Friendly | 5.7 | 18m | |||
8 | Free Range Turkey | 5.8 | 8m | |||
9 | Privileged White Youth | 5.8 | 8m | |||
10 |
★ Fist Job
Right facing corner, left of Wankulator FA: Robin Barley & Judy Komori, 2008 | 5.10b | 8m | |||
11 | Wankulator | 5.10d | 12m | |||
12 | Deception | 5.10a | 10m |
1.28. Pixie's Corner 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706636, -123.139870
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Wonderland
Follows angled crack to left around arete at far left end of crag, with a bolted anchor at the start. At the end of the traverse, go up easy short hand-fist crack to a tree belay. | 5.9 | 30m | |||
2 |
★★ White Rabbit
Short crack to the immediate right of Wonderland. | 5.10b | 10m | |||
3 |
Turley's Terror
Easy twin cracks about 4m right of White Rabbit, and just to left of large rounded arete. | 5.7 | 15m | |||
4 |
★★ Joe’s Crack
FA: Joe Buszowski & Simon Tooley, 1981 | 5.9 | 15m | |||
5 |
★★ Davy Jones’ Locker / The Locker
FA: Don Serl & Dave Jones, 1982 | 5.7 | 15m | |||
6 | Captain Hornblower | 5.11a | 15m | |||
7 |
★★ Weiner in the Bun
Climbs up the rounded arete in the centre of the crag. Well spaced bolts! | 5.11a | 20m, 3 | |||
8 | ★★ Diddly Squat | 5.12b | 20m | |||
9 |
★★ Pixie Corner
FA: Joe Buszowski & Paul Fodchuck, 1978 | 5.8 | 15m | |||
10 |
Trixie
FA: Don Serl & Dave Jones, 1982 | 5.10b | 8m | |||
11 | Little Feat | 5.10c | 12m | |||
12 | ★★ Digital Dexterity | 5.12c | 15m | |||
13 | Stink Foot | 5.10d | 12m | |||
14 | Big Foot | 5.10b | 12m |
1.29. One Toque Wall 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | One Toque Over The Line | 5.10a | 12m |
1.30. Fern Gully 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Dog-Legging | 5.8 | 25m | |||
2 | Fern Gully | 5.4 | 25m | |||
3 | ★ Tools of Moss Destruction | 5.11b | 22m | |||
4 | ★★ Rampage | 5.9 | 35m | |||
5 | ★★ Christa's Revenge | 5.7 | 30m | |||
6 | Hexxus's Red X's | 5.7 | 28m | |||
7 | The Space Between | 5.11d | 22m |
1.31. Crystal Wall 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Evaporation | 5.11a | ||||
2 | ★ Roca Diablo | 5.11a | 30m | |||
3 | ★ Super natural carpet riders | 5.9 | 30m |
1.32. Spiderfly 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Spiderfly | 5.12a | 10m | |||||
2 |
★★ Something Short
The RHS crack | 5.10d | 8m | |||||
|
1.33. Grand Doug 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.706984, -123.134047
summary
Quiet crag above Call it a Day. Rescrubbed in 2020.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Woodworm Crack
Left-leaning hand crack. | 5.8 | 15m | |||
2 |
Verdigris
Start left of Woodworm crack. Two options: hand traverse into Woodworm, or straight up. | 5.9 | 15m | |||
3 |
Green Mould
Steep hanging corner on the far right of the crag. | 5.10a | 15m |
1.34. Nighthawk Moss 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.708230, -123.133169
summary
A steep south-facing crag just below the summit of the bluffs. Although Rarely climbed, moss regrowth is minimal.
description
Nighthawk Moss offers a couple of steep cracks, a large squeeze chimney, and some hard face/slab climbing. It's worth the hike if you want to avoid afternoon crowds as the heat of the afternoon sun.
access issues
After leaving the main Smokebluffs crags the tails become multi-use. Keep an ear open for Mountain Bikes, Trials Motorbikes, and other hikers.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Poor Will
Climb the crack up to a ledge then beak left up a mossy face. FA: Robin Barley, 2008 | 5.10b | 15m, 3 | |||
2 |
John the Apostle
Climb the same start as Poor Will, but break out right up the aret. FA: Robin Barley, Judy Komori & John Howe, 2008 | 5.10a | 15m, 5 | |||
3 |
Unforgivable Sins
Startup the off-width chimney then break out left up the line of bolts. | 5.11a | 15m, 4 | |||
4 |
Vertical Mail Slot / Vertical Mail Slut
The giant cleft on the left side of the crag. squeeze up the chimney to the roof then start the battle for the top. The back of the chimney will take some small gear. FA: Robin Barley | 5.9 | 15m | |||
5 |
★★ Goatsucker Crack
stem and jam your way up and around the small roof. climbs better than it looks from the ground! FA: Stu Holwill, Tim Howill & Bill Noble, 1985 | 5.10a | 15m | |||
6 |
Nighthawker
Climb the crimps and slopers up to a mantle at the ledge, then break out onto the slab to the top. FA: Robin Barley & Harry Young, 2008 | 5.11a | 12m, 5 | |||
7 |
Weirdarse Way
Climb the short, sweet, overhanging corner to the slab exit above. FA: Robin Barley & Harry Young, 2008 | 5.11a | 12m | |||
8 |
Walrus Gumboot / Asolo/ Asdo
The crack at the far right of the crag offers superb jams and finger locks. a must-do if you're there! FA: Stu Holwill, Tim Holwill & Bill Noble, 1985 | 5.7 | 10m |
1.35. Vigilante Boulders 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Vigilante | V5 |