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Penny Lane Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Russ MacKenzie thara James Hardy Cruz Renee Rogge Chad Noah Boudreau-Richard

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Penny Lane 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.705092, -123.137750

access issues

Some cliffs are on private land, and closed. Others are close to private homes -- please keep the noise level down near homes, and do not anchor off fences, hydro towers, or anything else that is similar.

inherited from Smoke Bluffs
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mirage

FA: Bryan Beard & Ray Parker

5.11a Trad
2 War Horse

FA: Jeff Thompson

5.11d Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Clandestine Affair 5.9 Trad 25m
4 Clandestine Direct Start

Direct start, steep then balancy.

5.10d Trad 30m
5 The Yorkshire Gripper

FA: Peter Croft & Robin Barley, 1981

5.11b Trad 25m
6 Knob Hopping 5.11a Trad 20m
7 Popeye and the Raven

FA: Joe Turley & Gene Smith, 1981

5.10c Mixed trad 25m, 4
8 Quarryman

Protecting the boulder at the bottom is a good idea. Nice mellow climbing to a vertical section heading left into a great crack to the anchors. Good protection

FA: Robin Barley & Chuck Mullard, 1981

5.8 Trad 25m
9 Tougher Quarryman

The Direct finish.

5.10b Trad 25m
10 Health Hazard

FA: Robin Barley & Dale Cody, 1981

5.10a Mixed trad 25m, 2
11 The Last Post

FA: Kevin McLane, B Protsch & Joe Turley

5.11d Trad 25m
12 Weenie

FA: Scott Flavelle & J. Howe

5.11c Trad 25m
13 Short People

FA: Peter Croft, D. Fulton & P. Kindree

5.11a Trad 25m
14 Don't Trust Shorty

FA: Jesse Brown & Graeme Taylor

5.12c Trad 25m
15 Jangling Ball Wall

FA: Scott Flavelle

5.11b Trad 30m
16 Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies

FA: Dale Caldwell

5.11c Sport
17 Up Up and Away 5.9 Trad 30m
18 Total Fascination 5.13b Sport
19 The Cedar Prism

FA: Andrew Boyd

FFA: Ben Harnden, 2019

5.13c R Trad 15m
20 Witch Doctor's Apprentice 5.9 Trad 25m
21 Power Windows 5.11a Trad 20m
22 Kahoukers

FA: Jeremy Blumel

5.12b Trad 25m
23 Crime of the Century

Set: Anders Ourom

FA: Peter Croft & Tami Knight, 1978

5.11c Trad 15m
24 Shaky The Moyle

FA: K Mortensen & Dale Caldwell

5.11c Sport 10m
25 Penny Lane

Follow the nice finger crack that widens large hands at the top.

Belay the second from the top.

Either walk down or rappel down "Crime of the Century"

FFA: Anders Ourom & John Arts, 1978

5.9 Trad 30m
26 Some Face Moves

FA: J Brodie & M Campbell

5.11b Unknown 30m
27 Satan's Slit

Big Bro?

FA: Anders Ourum & L. Soet

5.6 Unknown 30m
28 Sunny Days In December

FA: Peter Croft

5.12b Trad 35m
29 Climb and Punishment / Crime and Punishment? 5.10d Trad 20m
30 Partners in Crime

Layback and jam your way up the beautiful finger splitter.

FA: K. Rajala & Chris Cooper, 1976

FFA: Randy Atkinson & Anders Ourom, 1978

FA: Andy Healy & Colin Moorhead, 2008

5.11a Trad 25m
31 The Ugly American 5.10a Trad 25m
32 Grumpy Old Men 5.11c Sport 23m
33 The Curver

FA: Sonnie Trotter, 2007

5.13a Trad 28m
34 Piggy's Perversions 5.8 Unknown 20m
35 Rolf's Route 5.11b Unknown 20m
36 Werewolves of London 5.11a Mixed trad 35m, 1
37 Stiff Upper Lip 5.10d Unknown 25m
38 Mr. Bad Example 5.10d Unknown 22m
39 Unknown 5.11c Unknown 30m
40 Hangover 5.10d Trad 12m
41 Roving Band of Quails 5.10c Unknown 12m
42 Girth 5.12b Unknown 10m
43 Slightly Overhung Corner 5.10a Unknown 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.6 Satan's Slit Unknown 30m
5.8 Piggy's Perversions Unknown 20m
Quarryman Trad 25m
5.9 Clandestine Affair Trad 25m
Penny Lane Trad 30m
Up Up and Away Trad 30m
Witch Doctor's Apprentice Trad 25m
5.10a Health Hazard Mixed trad 25m, 2
Slightly Overhung Corner Unknown 10m
The Ugly American Trad 25m
5.10b Tougher Quarryman Trad 25m
5.10c Popeye and the Raven Mixed trad 25m, 4
Roving Band of Quails Unknown 12m
5.10d Clandestine Direct Start Trad 30m
Climb and Punishment Trad 20m
Hangover Trad 12m
Mr. Bad Example Unknown 22m
Stiff Upper Lip Unknown 25m
5.11a Knob Hopping Trad 20m
Mirage Trad
Partners in Crime Trad 25m
Power Windows Trad 20m
Short People Trad 25m
Werewolves of London Mixed trad 35m, 1
5.11b Jangling Ball Wall Trad 30m
Rolf's Route Unknown 20m
Some Face Moves Unknown 30m
The Yorkshire Gripper Trad 25m
5.11c Crime of the Century Trad 15m
Grumpy Old Men Sport 23m
Shaky The Moyle Sport 10m
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies Sport
Unknown Unknown 30m
Weenie Trad 25m
5.11d The Last Post Trad 25m
War Horse Trad 20m
5.12b Girth Unknown 10m
Kahoukers Trad 25m
Sunny Days In December Trad 35m
5.12c Don't Trust Shorty Trad 25m
5.13a The Curver Trad 28m
5.13b Total Fascination Sport
5.13c R The Cedar Prism Trad 15m
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