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Routes as sport in Left Wall

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Showing all 14 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5 Unknown 5

Climb the second line of bolts back from the boulder/chockstone. Follows a crack system which widens towards the top. Rock can be sharp. The last few metres are a little blank.

Sport 15m
5+ Unknown 5+

Just to the right of the Unknown 5, before the boulder/chockstone. Climb fairly juggy holds straight up, past the root system of a tree (watch out for poison ivy growing amongst the roots!).

Sport 15m
3+ La Via Mas Facil de Cuba

Easiest climb in Cuba, but still fun. Starts outside cave entrance, head up sharp rock on left wall.

Has been well bolted since the guide book was published in 2005. Also, seems to have been extended past the original tree anchor to a bolted anchor, and the extension seems harder than 3+, at least 4 maybe 4+.

FA: David Ryan & Armando Menocal, 2001

Sport 15m
4+ Disneylandia

At cave entrance, climb onto the boulder/chockstone. Follow tufa to anchors.

FA: Josué Millo & Alison Andur, 2002

Sport 15m
6b+ Mambises y Maulets

The first route on the left wall after entering the cave. Start two metres from the downclimb and head straight up to the ledge with trees on it (anchors behind). Holds are small and footwork is precise. Crux is just below the ledge.

FA: Eduard Viana & Carlos Pinela, 2001

Sport 30m, 12
7a Calzo de Guagua
Sport 30m
8a Don Cojete de la Mancha

Directly across form the first big tufa on the Right Wall.

Sport 30m
7c Amigos en el Tope, Ahora y Siempre
Sport 30m, 14
7a Maybe
Sport 30m
7a+ Contra la Espada y la Pared

Rebolted with glue ins, expansion bolt next to glue in at first bolt.

Sport 30m
6c Ocucta Obsessión

Climbs the slightly overhanging but juggy area to the left of On Belay Hombre. The first bolts can be hard to see (torch or local knowledge useful). Watch out for the smelly bat cave as you clip the anchors. (Note: Guidebook gives 6c, but locals are adamant that it’s 6b.)

FA: Eduard Viana & Carlos Pinela, 2001

Sport 27m
7a On Belay Hombre

Just left of Leche de Mipalo with brown hangers. Shares first last bolt and anchor with Leche de Mipalo.

Sport 15m
6c+ Leche de Mipalo

This route goes up the white pinchy tufas at the end of the cave to a first anchor on a big ledge. There are 2 more bolts that link this route to the anchor of the one further right. Shares last bolt and anchor with On Belay Hombre. Pinchy tufas down low lead to pockets.

Sport 15m, 6
7b Unknown Right

This route starts on brown rock just right of Leche de Mipalo and shares the anchor with its extension.

Sport 25m, 10

Showing all 14 routes.

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