Routes as sport in Mogote del Valle

Climbs up the steep face just left of the corner on great pockets. Shares first bolt with Pikín.

This route climbs the corner with nice laybacking up to the right wall. Shares first bolt with Ana Banana.

Climb the second line of bolts back from the boulder/chockstone. Follows a crack system which widens towards the top. Rock can be sharp. The last few metres are a little blank.

Just to the right of the Unknown 5, before the boulder/chockstone. Climb fairly juggy holds straight up, past the root system of a tree (watch out for poison ivy growing amongst the roots!).

Easiest climb in Cuba, but still fun. Starts outside cave entrance, head up sharp rock on left wall.

Has been well bolted since the guide book was published in 2005. Also, seems to have been extended past the original tree anchor to a bolted anchor, and the extension seems harder than 3+, at least 4 maybe 4+.

At cave entrance, climb onto the boulder/chockstone. Follow tufa to anchors.

The first route on the left wall after entering the cave. Start two metres from the downclimb and head straight up to the ledge with trees on it (anchors behind). Holds are small and footwork is precise. Crux is just below the ledge.

Directly across form the first big tufa on the Right Wall.

Rebolted with glue ins, expansion bolt next to glue in at first bolt.

Climbs the slightly overhanging but juggy area to the left of On Belay Hombre. The first bolts can be hard to see (torch or local knowledge useful). Watch out for the smelly bat cave as you clip the anchors. (Note: Guidebook gives 6c, but locals are adamant that it’s 6b.)

Just left of Leche de Mipalo with brown hangers. Shares first last bolt and anchor with Leche de Mipalo.

This route goes up the white pinchy tufas at the end of the cave to a first anchor on a big ledge. There are 2 more bolts that link this route to the anchor of the one further right. Shares last bolt and anchor with On Belay Hombre. Pinchy tufas down low lead to pockets.

This route starts on brown rock just right of Leche de Mipalo and shares the anchor with its extension.

Climb the obvious guppies on the steep wall on the right hand side interior of cave, just before the big tufa. The overhanging section is followed by nice face climbing.

The first route established at this crag. Climb the first big column to a ledge, then follow the easy ramp left for a bit, before topping out straight up. 2-3 long draws nice for below the anchor.

Bolts with shackles (one worn and supplemented with a biner).

This route climbs the first big tufa on the right wall. Continue staright up once on top of the tufa. If you climb left you are on Chipojo. Nice tufa climbing down low and sharper water runnels higher up.

Climb the second big column toward the ledge, trending right before you reach it. Once on the ledge, top out as for Chipojo. Long draws or a bit of back cleaning before the ledge will reduce drag.

P1- 5 - 10m, 5 bolts – Sometimes called La Cuevita because of the small cave. Climb to the small cave and ledge. The cave is called Cueva Lechuza and has good views of the valley. P2- 6c+ – 20m, 6 bolts – trend left P3- 5 – 15m, 5 bolts – Best if linked with pitch 2. Watch out for wasps behind… Overall, best done if the leader is lowered back to the second anchor and belays the second up the whole route, before being lowered back to the second anchor. Abseil from second anchor to ground.

Is bolted now, was originally gear protected and named Fire Down Below. It's the first climb you see as you get to the crag up the obvious crack system. It looks good but turns into a filthy dirt fest after the first 5 metres. Worst climb I did in Cuba.

Easy crack on sharp grey rock to the right of where the path enter the crag. Nice easy warm up.