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5.12a
★ No Name
The left most route has no name but many people call it La Comadreja Enchilada and at the time of writing the only route with seemingly bombproof protection, is also the hardest at Rio Oro. Start to the left of the thin crack with a good three finger pocket and a home made first bolt. Make finger strength and clean footwork dependant moves up and to the right to the commercial bolt for a feeling of security, and clip while pinching with the left. With a slight overhang, from here work your way through the crux, using the thin crack for a couple of moves before climbing back towards the left and finishing on a high step with great pockets before the anchors. As with most routes on the wall, dirt and overgrowth can be a problem, especially near the rounded top of the climb. |
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