Croatia Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Croatia 5,931 routes in Region

4 1 2 3

1 Istra 2 Kvarnerski zaljev i Lika 3 Dalmacija 4 Sjeverna Hrvatska

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.445535, 16.431620

1.1. Istra 1,376 routes in Region

5 4 12 6 7 25 10 9 2 8 11 3 1 13 21 14 19 16 15 20 18 17 23 22 24

1 Istarske Toplice 2 Kamena Vrata 3 Buzetski Kanjon 4 Nugla 5 Raspadalica 6 Sopot 7 HC 8 Čiritež 9 Krkuz 10 Berto's Cave and Balcony 11 Kompanj 12 Ćepić 13 Ponte Porton 14 Pazin 15 Dvigrad 16 Limski Kanal 17 Rovinj 18 Sveta Katarina DWS 19 Zub - Dolina Raše 20 Rabac 21 Vela Draga 22 Vinkuran 23 Jama Galebianna 24 Kamenjak DWS 25 Bat Cave

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.126918, 13.840985

1.1.1. Istarske Toplice 100 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.379362, 13.887252

access issues

Only Frat and Hallelujah walls are currently open due to a rare plant in the other areas becoming endangered.

1.1.2. Kamena Vrata 53 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.399698, 13.938789

description

Hauptsächlich Plattenkletterei die sehr gut abgesichert.

approach

(45.399016, 13.939072) Vom Parkplatz über eine Straße zum sichtbaren Felsen

where to stay

Unterkünfte in Buzet und Roc'

1.1.3. Buzetski Kanjon 162 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.392898, 13.991379

description

Twin canyons with tufas, pockets and crimps with your choice of sun or shade.

approach

Drive through the town of Buzet towards Rijeka and turn right at the petrol station then follow this road down to the river Mirna and turn left onto the dirt road and follow this to the end and park. Take the first dirt road for Befana and Zimski sectors and the second dirt road across the river for Pengari and Doser sectors.

where to stay

Numerous hotels and hostels and a couple of campgrounds not too far away. Do not set up tents or stay in campervans for too long at the parking areas as the cops do check and it's illegal to camp outside of a registered campground in all of Croatia

1.1.4. Nugla 22 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.418521, 14.022966

1.1.5. Raspadalica 51 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.427797, 13.987079

summary

Fantastic view of Buzet area and easy routes on crisp rock

description

This crag is located on the cliffs below camping Raspadalica, next to a paragliding take-off point, close to the Slovenian border. It offers a wide vista of the Buzet valley and doesn't appear to get very crowded. The exposition is southwest and there is practically no shade at the cliff base.

approach

(45.425238, 13.997138)

1.1.6. Sopot 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.414541, 13.996571

summary

Big over hanging amphitheater in the hills above Buzet

description

Massive cave with a huge hole in the roof which in the springtime has a glorious waterfall cascading through it. There is a Via-Ferrata which traverse the cave to access the further side.

approach

Drive through Buzet towards Rijeka and turn left after the Peugeot and Citrion car yard, drive past the supermarket (Plodine) and then take the first right heading towards Strana. Drive up the narrow road and look for a brown road sign indicating the way to the cliff. Once you see the sign park on the left just after it. Walk through the forest on a nice trail that hikers use and you will come to the bottom of the cave. Once you see a Pandora sign nailed to a tree take the left uphill and it will bring you to the left hand edge of the cave.

1.1.7. HC 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.406706, 14.006614

1.1.8. Čiritež 50 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.400111, 14.030725

1.1.9. Krkuz 19 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.400249, 14.054429

approach

From Roč drive towards Krkuž. Park next to the railroad. Then cross it on foot and take the path to the left (direction northwest).

1.1.10. Berto's Cave and Balcony 22 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.400548, 14.059938

1.1.11. Kompanj 134 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.397704, 14.067271

summary

A scenic crag above the village of Klobasi. A perfect cliff for sunny but cooler days.

description

Routes in many different styles, from technical and vertical climbing to tufa climbs in steep overhangs, something for everyone. A nice base at the cliff make it also a great place for families.

https://flic.kr/p/NG5DB9

approach

Drive from Buzet towards Rijeka and turn left into Roč. Shortly after that turn right in direction of Kompanj and Krkuž. The road splits again at the cemetary. Go right and drive through the woods until you reach the village Klobasi. Park at the specially designated parking before the village (45.392506, 14.068203).

From there walk through the village and up the hill or just go straight from the parking and to the right part of the crag. Only the Olymp sector has an approach that is a bit wilder. Paths leading to the individual sectors are marked with signs

history

Austrian climber and filmmaker Leo Baumgartner discovered that cliff while scouting areas for the movie The Perfume and led the initial development. After that groups of Italian, Croatian and German devlopers continued the work. Some harder routes were bolted by Gerhard Hörhager and Markus Bock.

1.1.12. Ćepić 43 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.417504, 13.817409

approach

(45.416163, 13.815882)

1.1.13. Ponte Porton 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.356607, 13.748209

summary

A promising- looking area with 29 short routes, mostly for beginners.

access issues

The area around this crag is very habitable for insects, therefore it is not recommendable during the time of year when those are around.

approach

Through the bushes next to the road, climbing starts at the same height as the road.

1.1.14. Pazin 90 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.246001, 13.940380

summary

cliffs around Pazin

1.1.15. Dvigrad 108 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.131873, 13.817956

summary

(45.132222, 13.807200)

description

Limestone cliff of limited height and mostly crimpy routes. Most anchors and bolts have recently been replaced. Most route names written to base.

approach

From the road side car parking at (45.132222, 13.807200) take the wide dirt track on the East Side of the road. The wide track heads East through a grassy clearing into an oak woodland and soon becomes a narrow walking track. The track traverses the hillside for 10 minutes before the first boulders at the West end of Sector A appear. A few meters further on the track rounds the corner and the first routes of Sector A are now just above you. The main track narrows and continues on at this point but it is easier to head left and walk along the base of the cliff to access the other sectors.

1.1.16. Limski Kanal 116 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.133647, 13.710199

summary

The 12 km long fjord in the middle of the Istrian peninsula is an impressive natural monument and is somehow reminiscent of African bushland.

description

The name Limski Kanal goes back to the ancient border river Lim which separated the regions of Poreč and Pula. There are several fish and mussel farms in the canal. The entire area of the Limski Canal is a nature reserve, so please behave accordingly. The first climbable rock Gavranik was developed in 1995 by the Rovinj climber Doriano Perhat and gradually the other areas were created, all of which are located on the north bank facing south.

access issues

Since the rocks all face south, you usually have full sun and only partial shade in the early morning and late at night.

approach

The sectors Gavranik, Horoskop and Krugi are located near the parking lot. You have to walk longer to the Šimije and Kloštar sectors because they are in the nature reserve.

1.1.17. Rovinj 150 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.069227, 13.627157

approach

(45.068420, 13.638387)

1.1.18. Sveta Katarina DWS 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 45.077319, 13.625743

description

Online topo: https://www.bergsteigen.com/fileadmin/userdaten/import/topos/dws_spot_sveta_katarina_rovinj_topo.jpg

1.1.19. Zub - Dolina Raše 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.166867, 14.070896

1.1.20. Rabac 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.083695, 14.145435

description

Mostly slabs and vertical climbing. Well protected with bolts.

approach

Park in the bend of the road between Labin and Rabac. Cross the road and follow signs to the crag. (45.082143, 14.146979)

1.1.21. Vela Draga 80 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.314538, 14.170525

description

https://flic.kr/p/S3Mfgy

https://www.summitpost.org/vranjska-draga-canyon/522475

Video: https://www.facebook.com/lukalindic/videos/3563912390318532/?t=30

approach

(45.319961, 14.169923)

1.1.22. Vinkuran 41 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.838881, 13.859365

1.1.23. Jama Galebianna 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 44.861236, 13.804555

description

Deep Water Solo place in pula. Might be one of the famest caves for DWS in Istria.

The place is so crowded after 10 a.m. that climbing becomes very dangerous!!

Possibility of cliff jumping and there are bolts for a waterline. There are more rock formations westwards from the area.

Be aware that those rock formations are part of a military zone!

Be aware of the tide, big waves and the possibility of rocks in the water!

1.1.24. Kamenjak DWS 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 44.768340, 13.913726

description

Video: https://youtu.be/nFVYiYg46k0

1.1.25. Bat Cave 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.400656, 14.025333

summary

A steep cave with mostly hard to very hard routes.

approach

The heavily overhanging wall can be seen from the road. Directly at the bridge, it goes from the road on the right side of the crash barrier into the forest. If the thorn bushes are overgrown, the path cannot be seen. Behind it, a steep path leads up through foliage and trees. In a clearing on the right side of the wall there is a small ledge. Climb up there and turn left again through the forest, cross the river bed and go over to the wall.

history

Developed by Angy Eiter and Bernie Ruech starting in 2019.

1.2. Kvarnerski zaljev i Lika 1,056 routes in Region

4 8 3 2 1 9 7 6 10 11 12 13 5 14 15 17 24 18 29 27 25 16 23 19 28 20 21 22 30 31 26

1 Kamenjak 2 Kamenjak boulders 3 Vela Peša 4 Risnjak 5 Vinodol 6 Golubinjak 7 Vrbovsko 8 Klanac 9 Veli vrh 10 Kanjon Rječine 11 DWS Ičići 12 Medveja 13 Mošćenička Draga 14 Brseč 15 Krk 16 Cres i Lošinj 17 Senjska Draga 18 Lukovo 19 Dabarski kukovi 20 Božin kuk 21 Filipov kuk 22 Radetina greda 23 Oteš 24 Velika Greda 25 Strogir 26 Stapina 27 Velika Čelinka 28 Velinac 29 Vela stin 30 Stogaj 31 Zir

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.978359, 15.055583

1.2.1. Kamenjak 40 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.373164, 14.558076

description

Online topo: https://tz-cavle.hr/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/KAMENJAK.pdf

approach

(45.382891, 14.559168)

1.2.2. Kamenjak boulders 26 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 45.385042, 14.548662

summary

Photo of boulder field: Rirockclimbing.

description

Topo.

1.2.3. Vela Peša 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.405203, 14.537277

description

Online topo

approach

(45.406748, 14.544325)

1.2.4. Risnjak 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.431898, 14.617532

summary

Currently, climbing is not allowed due to the nature protection rules of the Risnjak National Park.

1.2.5. Vinodol 25 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.200770, 14.727078

1.2.6. Golubinjak 67 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.356222, 14.765652

description

Great climbing area for warm summer days.

approach

(45.357597, 14.762004)

1.2.7. Vrbovsko 52 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.360912, 15.107324

summary

A small crag with mostly short routes in very different styles just near the old quarry.

description

Info: http://visitvrbovsko.hr/penjanje-i-planinarenje/

access issues

(45.360904, 15.100805)

1.2.8. Klanac 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.429206, 15.191209

summary

Quaint crag located alongside the valley of the River Kupa on the Croatian side beneath the town of Klanac.

description

Two sectors. One of them is a sport sector with 7 bolted routes ranging from Font. grades 4-7b that scale an average height of 12 meters. The routes start out easy on the right end, but the further left you go, the harder they become. Second sector is a boulder face just barely left of Klanac's last sport climb "Push'n Faith". The second sector hosts two 5 meter boulders.

approach

Make a right turn off of D3 onto street where Restaurant Mirni Kut is located, then continue until the road descends to outlook Damalj's open field. Once you reach a fork in the road, take the left lane until you reach the base of the hill by the river.

There should be an old broken down stone mill on the bank of the river with a manmade rocky cascade that stretches to the Slovenian Border. The large open filed should be on your left.

On your right, there should be a semi-steep passage up to a wooden platform. During wet season, this passage can be a tad dangerous with mud slippage.

where to stay

DPB House: https://www.dpbhouse.org/rentals.html#cabins

history

Established and bolted in the early 2000s by Steve Meeker and Steve Bolter, then later further established and bolted by Boris Čujić, Daniel Meeker, Noah Meeker, and Jonathan Meeker in 2021. Maintained by DPB House (Društvo Prijatelja Biblije).

1.2.9. Veli vrh 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.361896, 14.439356

description

http://croatiaclimbs.blogspot.si/2014/03/veli-vrh.html

approach

(45.361464, 14.439318)

1.2.10. Kanjon Rječine 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.338938, 14.461394

description

Some sectors topo: http://croatiaclimbs.blogspot.com/2016/01/kanjon-rjecine.html

approach

(45.334919, 14.459417)

1.2.11. DWS Ičići 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 45.319036, 14.295541

description

https://www.rak-rijeka.org/dws-icici-skica-s-14-ucrtanih-smjerova/

1.2.12. Medveja 75 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.273788, 14.262574

1.2.13. Mošćenička Draga 39 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.250302, 14.236173

1.2.14. Brseč 66 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.181798, 14.241157

summary

http://brsec.mur.at/

1.2.15. Krk 203 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.070637, 14.618065

1.2.16. Cres i Lošinj 93 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.801810, 14.403898

summary

Two beautiful, sparsely populated Croatian islands connected by a bridge.

1.2.17. Senjska Draga 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.980646, 14.948632

approach

(44.978981, 14.951755)

1.2.18. Lukovo 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.855514, 14.896112

1.2.19. Dabarski kukovi 48 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.569682, 15.114995

description

https://flic.kr/p/vM2mmr

1.2.20. Božin kuk 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.537256, 15.184921

1.2.21. Filipov kuk 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.531077, 15.200303

description

At the entrance to the routes there are name and rating marks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NiUbOA-WNQA

approach

(44.530347, 15.200460)

1.2.22. Radetina greda 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.525387, 15.104239

description

http://croatiaclimbs.blogspot.com/2014/03/radetina-greda.html

http://www.aozeljeznicar.hr/attachment.php?id=834

1.2.23. Oteš 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.614796, 15.280500

description

https://soamaps.com/country/HR/97271/sportsko-penjalite-elina

approach

(44.615119, 15.281930)

1.2.24. Velika Greda 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.951296, 15.189773

summary

North and west of the climbing area are mine-suspected areas!

description

https://adventureannapurna.wixsite.com/velikagreda

1.2.25. Strogir 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.700778, 14.942145

1.2.26. Stapina 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.406146, 15.327991

description

https://www.plezanje.net/plezalisce/stapina

1.2.27. Velika Čelinka 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.717370, 14.925765

description

(44.714869, 14.923294)

1.2.28. Velinac 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.559238, 15.072530

description

https://www.plezanje.net/alpinizem/vrhovi/vrh/velinac

1.2.29. Vela stin 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.817260, 14.739967

summary

Beware of possible rusty bolts!

1.2.30. Stogaj 72 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.499571, 15.037258

summary

Quiet beach and beautiful pinnacle Stogaj

description

Beautiful setting also for non-climbers. All the rusty bolts were replaced at the end of 2021. with the new Raumer stainless steel AISI 316L Marine (HCR). Other bolts are stainless steel AISI 304 or 316 or home made glue-ins “U” hangers that are still shiny. The backdrop cliff is of solid limestone, providing some shade; the pinnacle feels like some limestone breccia - interesting holds, but sometimes a bit flaky. If you want to be attracted to this climbing area, then watch the short video about the spectacular "Stogaj" tower:

https://youtu.be/WP70DDvdkcM

approach

Driving from Novalja to Žigljen (ferry) take turnoff right towards Metajna. Pass the village and continue till you reach the abandoned restaurant "Kanjon" close to the beach. Park and follow the faint path behind ridge for ~ 1km to the bay below the pinnacle. (44.5030986, 15.0200513)

1.2.31. Zir 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.430260, 15.615048

description

https://flic.kr/p/2jXaykY

1.3. Dalmacija 2,995 routes in Region

3 1 4 5 8 2 7 6 9 10 12 45 13 11 15 16 17 18 41 42 14 35 19 20 38 37 36 21 40 29 27 22 23 28 24 26 30 31 25 32 43 33 39 34 44

1 Paklenica 2 Vranjača 3 Mali Vaganac 4 Sopnjača 5 Tulove Grede 6 Karin 7 Džebinovac 8 Obli Kuk 9 Punta Bajlo DWS 10 Željina litica 11 Zlarin 12 Ostrovica 13 Čikola 14 Sveti Vid 15 Malačka 16 Bobanova Greda 17 Markezina Greda 18 Rupotine 19 Marjan 20 Perun 21 Omiš 22 Križice - Šolta 23 Brač 24 Hvar 25 Podstine 26 Vis 27 Vrulja 28 Biokovo 29 Mimice 30 Vaganj 31 Orebić 32 Klek - Opuzen 33 Žarkovica 34 Konavle 35 Lovrinac 36 Ciovo 37 Sustipan 38 Katalinica brig 39 Lokrum 40 Čelina 41 Mosor Klobuk 42 Koludar 43 Lastovo 44 Pičete 45 Vrlika

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.427937, 16.560594

summary

Dalmatia is a narrow stripe of Croatia located at the east shore of the Adriatic Sea, stretching from the island of Rab in the north to the Bay of Kotor in the south with Split as major city.

description

All of Dalmatia offers great climbing and also deep water soloing along the coast and on the islands. Split is a major hub for climbing but anywhere in Dalmatia the next climbing spot is not far.

1.3.1. Paklenica 477 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.305771, 15.473367

summary

Paklenica is probably the most famous and one of the most beautiful Croatian climbing areas. It is located within a beautiful national park and offers something for everyone.

description

Depending on your inclination, you may perceive Paklenica either as a most convenient venue with rock-climbing of many tastes served on a silver platter - or as an overcommercialized outdoor gym. Paklenica's limestone offers numerous routes of all difficulty, from boulders, short sport routes to harrowing multi-pitch trad adventures. The more frequented sectors are well signposted; benchmark routes are labelled with small plaquettes. Paklenica is a national park. The climbing is restricted to the great gorge. There is an entrance fee to be paid for entering the gorge, 5-day-discounts (within 30 days) are available (check https://paklenica.hr ). The narrowest (and most frequented) part of the gorge is a few steps from the parking. Here you can climb also with small children - if you ensure they don't fall down the 1-m-embankment into the creek. Further up in the sides of the canyon there are many multipitch routes in various grades, less suitable for families. The most famous rock formation is Anica Kuk with routes up to 350 m. Most of the routes in Paklenica are well bolted. Grading is in UIAA or in French scale.

approach

(44.302535, 15.470697)

where to stay

The close-by town of Starigrad, as well as all villages along the coast, boast a wide selection of accomodation: camping, hotels, villas.

1.3.2. Vranjača 73 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.233475, 15.781229

summary

Enormous cave in Croatian mountains with many intermediate and hard routes of mostly overhanging character. It's perfect for summer but good for spring and autumn too. The sides of the cave even get some sun throughout the day.

description

Topo - 27crags.com

Video of Vranjača cave:

approach

Parking directly next to the road (44.226931, 15.782906). From there you follow a path uphill marked with stone towers.

1.3.3. Mali Vaganac 64 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.324382, 15.445997

summary

Lots of well bolted routes facing different directions.

description

Exposed to the wind if the Bora is blowing.

approach

From Paklenica drive towards Veliko Rujna until you see the rope bridge between two rock towers. Park there on a small parking, pass under the bridge and up the pass and then left for about 20 minutes.

1.3.4. Sopnjača 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.281904, 15.540333

1.3.5. Tulove Grede 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.262713, 15.654961

summary

Limestone mountains and cliffs south of Paklenica.

description

https://tulovegrede.mojservis.net/

Online guide in Slovenian language: https://tulovegrede.mojservis.net/javno/PDF/tulove-grede.pdf

More info: https://www.facebook.com/tulovegredeclimbing

approach

Head in direction Obrovac (south from Paklenica). Before Obrovac take a left (sign for Sveti Rok) and follow the road above the tunnel until you see a small white church. Park after it at a stone walled parking lot. (44.263900, 15.647488)

1.3.6. Karin 51 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.135319, 15.653259

summary

Athletic climbing on overhangs

1.3.7. Džebinovac 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.190632, 15.766238

description

http://croatiaclimbs.blogspot.com/2013/10/dzebinovac.html

1.3.8. Obli Kuk 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.244986, 15.804516

description

Located in the beautiful scenery of Velebit, on the mountain Pass of Prezid.

approach

Parking at (44.248799, 15.807071).

1.3.9. Punta Bajlo DWS 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 44.095843, 15.247578

description

https://youtu.be/kKzieOU__HA

1.3.10. Željina litica 40 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.069095, 15.155188

summary

Crag with the most beautiful view of the Adriatic Sea and many islands. In 2024, the climbing club SPK Paklenica from Zadar rebolted some old routes and added new ones.

approach

(44.071498, 15.161665)

1.3.11. Zlarin 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.684967, 15.839892

description

https://www.tz-zlarin.hr/product/penjaliste-poturicini-kruzi/

1.3.12. Ostrovica 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.963161, 15.803129

description

More information at: Facebook page SPK Paklenica.

approach

(43.964665, 15.793640)

1.3.13. Čikola 276 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.839777, 16.055449

summary

A big canyon carved by the Čikola river with walls on the south and north side enabling climbing throughout the year. The area is well developed but there's still a lot of potential and more sectors and routes will be added in the coming years.

description

• FB: Penjalište Čikola

• FB: Croatia climbing guidebook

• http://www.marulianus.hr/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2973%3Acikola-osoje&catid=82%3Asportska-penjalita&Itemid=124&limitstart=1

approach

Parking:

• (43.840923, 16.044568) on the north side for sectors: 'Osoje', 'Nr. 1', 'Paščara', 'Bandusovac' (Betkin), 'Ispod Peke', 'Metin', 'Koloseum'
• (43.831291, 16.063320) on the south side for sectors: 'Brštane' (Ljetni), 'Čelinka' (Sige)

where to stay

Booking.com or AirBnB have a lot of places around the canyon or Šibenik.

1.3.14. Sveti Vid 45 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.534526, 16.231619

description

This is a beautiful climbing area located 22km west from Split near old historical town of Trogir. Climbing progress in that area started at the end of '90's by English climber Steven Whittall who fell in love with that area instantly. Right now there is 38 routes in Trogir Sv.Vid area with difficulties from 6a-8b+ but there is also some potential for new routes, specially a hard ones (8b>).

Just like on Marjan, Trogir is a perfect area for winter climbing, but spring and fall can also be very nice. Rock is mostly vertical or slightly overhanging 15-50m high.

More information: http://plave-gore.com/cr?id=4

approach

Parking:

• (43.535812, 16.224746) for sector: 'Velika Stina'
• (43.532238, 16.233866) for sectors: 'Mala Stina', 'Seve'

1.3.15. Malačka 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.580367, 16.329606

description

Very Small climbing area was equipped in the 90ties and it was never so much popular among locals for the lack of the routes. Recently rebolted and reorganized, atract's climbers pretty much with amazing view. It is a memorable experience and it's really worth a visit and spending one day here. Routes are good and nice, friendly bolted, and there is just a dozen.

More information: http://plave-gore.com/cr?id=2

approach

Main Kastela road, junction at Kastel Stari to Lecevica, uphill, will take you to the top where is a parking lot. From parking walk to the west, folowing dirt road for just few hundreds of meters, where following the markins to the base of the wall - 10 min approach.

1.3.16. Bobanova Greda 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.569740, 16.497925

description

Bobanova Greda is a new sport climbing area located at Kozjak mountain range, between Rupotine (Solin) and Markezina greda (Klis). The name of this part of Kozjak is Orljak, and locals call it Bobanova Greda. South facing wall high up to 100 meters, counts around 20 routes, pretty much all sport routes, but it is still in the process of equipping by local climbers from Marulianus club. Fantastic view and amazing surrounding give this place a big bonus!

Equipping with bolts started 2008. by locals Daniel Piccini and Steve Whittall. Authors thought about safety a lot, so bolting is reasonable and friendly here. So far there is more than 20 new routes, up to 110meters, but in general, sport routes up to 35 meters. The grades are from 5b-7a+, but potential for new routes is enormous. The type of the rock is limestone. Holds are sharp.

Bobanova greda crag is a perfect for climbing all year long, but the best would be at spring and autumn.

1.3.17. Markezina Greda 90 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.566268, 16.524143

description

Markezina Greda is one of the real Dalmatian hot spots, mostly developed in the last few years. New routes are bolted there constantly and in this moment there is about 100 of them, from 5c-8b+.

Markezina greda is a few kilometers long, height from 15 up to 150 meters, so you can find there some multi-pitch bolted routes also. It offers really all styles of climbing – from technical slabs to athletic roofs with tufas. Potential for hard routes is really enormous and the best season for climbing is from spring to fall. This climbing area is located just 10km from Split and we strongly believe that in the following years it will become a well known all over the world.

approach

You can park above football field or there are a few places directly at the start of the path to the crag. Here are the GPS coordinates: (43.565497, 16.526644).

1.3.18. Rupotine 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.564035, 16.495976

description

This is a small but very nice climbing area located 7 km from Split on the way to Markezina greda. It has about 20 routes, 15-30m high, and endurance routes with difficulties from 6b to 8a. The best season to climb there is from fall to spring. In the winter all routes are usually wet.

More information: http://plave-gore.com/cr?id=1

approach

(43.562442, 16.496919)

1.3.19. Marjan 77 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.509360, 16.401324

description

Marjan is the climbing area situated in the center of Split. On the south side of the hill are the cliffs, facing island Solta and peninsula Ciovo, as well as many of city beaches lying below limestone cliffs.

The cliff is located inside of a well kept state park and runs along the top of the hill for 500m to a height of 15-30m.

Marjan counts 76 routes (ranges 4c-8a), mostly vertical and especially popular for many sunny days throughout whole year. The best season for climbing on Marjan is a winter season, but spring and especially fall are also very good periods. It is possible to climb in the summer, too but be careful of heat.

approach

(43.507899, 16.401625)

1.3.20. Perun 69 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.505640, 16.556158

summary

New climbing area, recently equipped by local climbers with help of tourist board. It is one of those places where the view is just breath taking and we do recommend to visit. Orientation is East-South East, so forget about in in the summer.

description

https://projectbeta1.wordpress.com/perun/

1.3.21. Omiš 272 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.450063, 16.704109

description

Omiš is the small historical city located at mouth of the Cetina river, 20km south from Split. Omis is surrounded with cliffs and canyon, so rock climbing here is a big deal. Omis area counts about 300 routes in the numerous sectors all around the canyon, with difficulties from 4a to 8b+. There are biggest number are sport routes (up to 30m) but you can also find multi-pitch routes up to 300m. Omis really offers whole variety of climbing and the climbing season last whole year long.

There is 14 climbing sectors and pretty much all are really easy to approach (just two or three are more demanding to reach),

The type of the rock is a great quality limestone. Rock orientation is diverse. Omis offers all rock orientations.

As soon as you get there, you will understand why it has been so popular location among the climbers. Landscapes around Omis are well known for outdoor activities like rafting and canyoning as the most adventurous trip. Join us! The surrounding is outstanding, views are spectacular, the cliffs are amazing and the potential is enormous.

1.3.22. Križice - Šolta 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.367402, 16.277659

description

http://croatiaclimbs.blogspot.com/2013/12/krizice-solta.html

1.3.23. Brač 126 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.322440, 16.668393

summary

Island of Brač is the largest Dalmatian island and closest to Split with in 45min drive by ferry. Brač is great outdoor zone and from this fall it does become important location for climbers, finally we would say.

1.3.24. Hvar 426 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.172731, 16.750108

summary

Hvar island is a very popular tourist and climbing destination. It has a surprising amount of great climbing areas, certainly worth of visit.

description

Main info on the climbing is here: https://www.hvarclimbing.com/

approach

Split is the nearest airport and travel hub, and also the dock from which the boats go most frequently to Hvar

You can book a ferry from Split here. If you come with a car it's recommended you choose Stari Grad as your destination on Hvar since you can book the car for this connection

to get around the island it's best to have your own car or rent a scooter in Hvar. Buses exist but they are not very reliable

where to stay

You can pick all around the Island between hotels, private accommodation and camps

1.3.25. Podstine 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.975422, 16.712752

description

https://tzvelaluka.hr/en/podstine

1.3.26. Vis 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 43.027366, 16.107124

1.3.27. Vrulja 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.404393, 16.876950

1.3.28. Biokovo 284 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.322196, 17.047815

summary

Biokovo is the second-highest and steepest mountain range in Croatia, located along south Dalmatian coast.

description

Biokovo is located between the rivers of Cetina and Neretva. A big portion of the mountain range is protected as Nature park Biokovo.

http://plave-gore.com/mt?id=5

https://flic.kr/p/7ccZEG

1.3.29. Mimice 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.408269, 16.814156

approach

Parking (43.407222, 16.810889).

1.3.30. Vaganj 40 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.989634, 17.097894

1.3.31. Orebić 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.977268, 17.168833

1.3.32. Klek - Opuzen 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.944077, 17.561101

description

http://croatiaclimbs.blogspot.com/2015/06/klek-opuzen.html

1.3.33. Žarkovica 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.638661, 18.150886

1.3.34. Konavle 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.564294, 18.335852

description

https://www.nature-classic.at/medien/bilder/artikel/tourenbuch/klettern/kroatkonavle/ca%20info%20v.s.jpg

1.3.35. Lovrinac 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.513357, 16.491499

summary

Hard overhang boulder area. Easy approach. Short routes. 1 chrashpad is sufficient. Possible to boulder alone.

description

Hard boulder area with mostly overhang routes. Just in the left side are some vertical routes. Grades in font style. Dries slowly once wet Very easy to boulder alone to cause its not to high and easy jump off. One chrashpad is sufficient mostly. There are toilets and water available at the spot. Whole day sun in winter days.

access issues

Area is on cemetary of lovrinac in split. Any GPS can easely find it. There are opening hours from 7 till 17.00 h. After that acces is not allowed. Respect this place of pray for the people visiting there.

approach

Crag is located at cemetary lovrinac in split. Easy to reach from center, max 10 min drive by car. Once you come there on parking take the main entrance of cemetery. If you just pass the gate look slightly right and you see the rock formation on some kind of platform. Walk towards it, the boulders are on the back of this rock and can't be missed. There is a small grass field in front of them and a tunnel built in the middle of them.

where to stay

Center of split is nearby and offers many possibilities.

ethic

It's a cemetary so no yelling, music or parties etc.

1.3.36. Ciovo 59 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 43.483398, 16.341733

summary

An island just across from Split with enormous deep water soloing potential.

description

Most of the DWS is located on the south-eastern tip of the island.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sn7RDJAgS1I

approach

You may drive to the island and continue in direction of Gospe od Prizidnice (where there is an old cliff-top church). But to reach the climbing sectors you should rent a boat.

history

First ascents were reported in 2005.

1.3.37. Sustipan 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 43.500749, 16.425894

summary

A Deep Water Soloing sport just west of the harbor in walking distance from the city.

approach

Walk from the city to the harbor and find the park called Sustipan.

1.3.38. Katalinica brig 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 43.500789, 16.442579

1.3.39. Lokrum 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 42.621994, 18.120147

summary

The best location for free climbing in Dubrovnik is the exterior side of the island of Lokrum.

1.3.40. Čelina 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 43.408730, 16.759956

description

Nice and small deepwatersolo spot. Be careful with low tide.

approach

Easy excess via Linda Autocamp or even closer and more comfortable via the Parkingspace in front of villa perkušić.

1.3.41. Mosor Klobuk 34 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.535448, 16.561835

approach

(43.533097, 16.562863)

1.3.42. Koludar 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.535163, 16.547135

description

http://plave-gore.com/ra?id=1

approach

(43.531958, 16.540339)

1.3.43. Lastovo 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 42.750478, 16.825332

1.3.44. Pičete 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.528104, 18.416903

description

http://www.marulianus.hr/images/stories/Pichete/smjerovi_pichete.jpg

1.3.45. Vrlika 15 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.914861, 16.396130

summary

Little climbing area near the Prozor fortress.

approach

You can park on the parking lot to the fortress from there you take a little path (starts with the sign sportove penjanje). The path's quite overgrown with bushes but it's doable.

1.4. Sjeverna Hrvatska 504 routes in Region

3 14 4 7 5 8 6 13 1 2 9 10 11 15 12

1 Terihaj 2 Okić 3 Ravna Gora 4 Vranja peč 5 Pokojec 6 Kalnik 7 Zia 8 Ljubelj 9 Duzlučki jarak 10 Papuk - S. Sokoline 11 Klek 12 Gajina pećina 13 Gorsko zrcalo 14 Čuturaševa peć 15 Kukača

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.712304, 16.423636

1.4.1. Terihaj 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.752383, 15.686176

summary

Good rock and a variety of grades.

description

Sitting in a forest, among the trees, this crag has a unique atmosphere. It stays wet for a couple of days after rain.

approach

(45.75218, 15.68668) 30-40 minute drive from Zagreb. Park on the side of the road and follow the path, it is a 5 minute walk.

1.4.2. Okić 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.748400, 15.706081

summary

Great location for a daytrip

description

Limestone rock, a bit crumbly at some spots, so watch out for loose stone. At the top of the cliffs there is a great view of the surrounding valley. Popular hiking paths begin at the crag and lead into the forest.

http://croatiaclimbs.blogspot.com/2014/03/okic.html

access issues

(45.749106, 15.702967) Public land. Accessible whole year.

1.4.3. Ravna Gora 40 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.279979, 15.974456

1.4.4. Vranja peč 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.197438, 16.161469

1.4.5. Pokojec 72 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.168669, 16.238713

summary

Excellent routes

description

This crag consists of two cliffs rising steeply from the edge of a valley. The rock dries very fast, its soft limestone.

https://pk-vertikal.hr/zagorski-vodic/pokojec/#/

approach

(46.171605, 16.243291)

1.4.6. Kalnik 184 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.133256, 16.462357

description

http://www.spk-grip.hr/kalnik/#1

1.4.7. Zia 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.197415, 16.235468

description

http://croatiaclimbs.blogspot.com/search/label/Zia

1.4.8. Ljubelj 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.163269, 16.430752

1.4.9. Duzlučki jarak 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.505803, 17.874239

1.4.10. Papuk - S. Sokoline 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.471752, 17.627793

1.4.11. Klek 27 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.259880, 15.145409

summary

Birthplace of climbing in Croatia.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/131701725@N02/22117293674/

description

The head of Klek rises steeply from the valley surrounding Ogulin. It is a popular destination for mountaineers as well as climbers. The weather can be unpredictable and windy. Most of the routes are multipitch, you will need some trad gear.

More information: http://croatiaclimbs.blogspot.com/2014/03/klek_12.html

approach

From Zagreb there is a one hour drive to Ogulin, from there you have to cross the river Dobra and head uphill. There is a carpark in the village of Bjelsko, from there leads a marked footpath up to the cliff, about a 40 minute walk. (45.241961, 15.148956)

where to stay

There is lodging at the top of Klek.

1.4.12. Gajina pećina 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.939970, 15.634974

summary

Peu de voies mais spot sympa à découvrir après avoir visité le parc national de Plitvice. En plein soleil en journée en été.

description

Topo - Paklenica-Croatia.com

Topo - Croatia Climbs

approach

5 minutes de marche d’approche, accessible via un petit sentier depuis la route, il faut marcher jusqu’au niveau de l’arrivée de la tirolienne. À côté d’une petite rivière qui est à sec en été (juillet 2021).

1.4.13. Gorsko zrcalo 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.902747, 16.008273

description

Info: http://zagrebclimbing.com/penjalista/gorsko-zrcalo/

1.4.14. Čuturaševa peć 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.198087, 16.045660

description

https://www.spk-direkt.hr/galerija/cuturaseva-pec-skice/

1.4.15. Kukača 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 45.233768, 15.337496

description

http://croatiaclimbs.blogspot.com/2014/03/kukaca.html