Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 16th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Burggaillenreuth Schlossbergwand | |||||||
8- | ★★ Dezentraler Energiepfad | 17m, 5 | |||||
8- | ★★ Ullala | 17m, 6 | |||||
8- | ★ Hässliches Entlein | 17m, 4 | |||||
6 | ★★ Action Perfect | 15m, 4 | |||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Heiligenstadt Hoher Stein | |||||||
8- | ★★ Tapferer Recke - with Mario | 15m, 4 | |||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Frankenstüble | |||||||
8- | ★ Adlerschnitzel | 12m | |||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Schda Schdum Kleiner Bärnfelser Turm | |||||||
8- | ★★ Achterle | 8m, 4 | |||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Oberes Wiesenttal Neidensteiner Wand | |||||||
6+ | ★ Mein erstes Mal | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Geodätenpfeiler | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
7+ | ★★ Beschissene Geschenke | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Schda Schdum Kleiner Bärnfelser Turm | |||||||
7 | ★ Siebenerle | 8m | |||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Schda Schdum Bärnfelser Nadel | |||||||
7- 7-/7 | Bärnfalle | 12m, 4 | |||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Emil Riedl Gedenkwand | |||||||
8+ | Die üblichen Verdächtigen - with Kruder | 15m | |||||
7+ | Emil und die Detektive - with Kruder | 15m | |||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Graischer Bleisteinwände Linke Wände | |||||||
6+ | Weder Fisch noch Fleisch | 12m, 4 | Average | ||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Graischer Bleisteinwände Mittlere Wände | |||||||
7- | ★ Beinhart | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
7- | ★ Beinhart | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
5+ | ★ Zauberbohne | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Graischer Bleisteinwände Linke Wände | |||||||
6+ | Pappnase | 11m | Average | ||||
6+ | Pappnase | 11m | Average | ||||
8- | ★★ Der Koung | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
8- | ★★ Der Koung | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Schda Schdum Kleiner Bärnfelser Turm | |||||||
3 | ★★★ Schda-Wurf | 10m | Average | ||||
2 | ★ Schdabil | 10m | Average | ||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Ebermannstadt Wohlmuthshüller Wand | |||||||
8- | ★ Brazilian Butt Lift | 18m | |||||
6 | ★★ Stürmische Zeiten | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6 | ★★ Sturm im Kessel | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5 | ★ Ein Kessel Buntes | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Haselstaudener Wände | |||||||
7- | ★ Regenbogen - with Nia O'Connor | 12m | |||||
5 | ★ Märzenriss - with Nia O'Connor | 12m, 3 | |||||
6- | ★ Prinzessin - with Nia O'Connor | 11m, 3 | |||||
8- | ★★ Nixalsverdruss - with Nia O'Connor | 15m, 4 | |||||
7+ | ★ Happening - with Nia O'Connor | 15m | |||||
7- | ★★ Efeusteig - with Nia O'Connor | 14m, 3 | |||||
7- | ★ S'Michele - with Nia O'Connor | 10m, 3 | |||||
6+ | ★ Hessenriss - with Nia O'Connor | 12m, 5 | |||||
Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Schda Schdum Großer Bärnfelser Turm | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Team Griffelo | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice Boulder Route.
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Thu 14th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Oberngruber Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★ Crazy Bohrer - with mantra | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Did the sequence wrong, and it's really all about the sequence... successfully warmed up, though.
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8+ 8+/9- | ★★★ Monsun - with mantra | 20m, 7 | |||||
It took me quite a while to figure out a good beta for me, both for the crux at the second bolt as well as for the finish.
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8+ 8+/9- | ★★★ Monsun - with mantra | 20m, 7 | |||||
Second try, made every mistake there is to make, still got about two thirds up, then fell, completely exhausted. For what it's worth, this is an 8+/9- that might actually be harder than 8+ for once.
For my future self (spoilers start here): Tape left middle finger, right middle and ring finger for the sharp holds. First crux: Go straight up to the two double-pockets, twist left for a reachy move into the bad pocket (index but mostly middle finger worked best). Put right foot a bit higher (hard to see pocket), then place left foot (no hook) on the little ledge. Use mono to get up, then left hand into the hold on the flake (it sucks, deal with it), then maybe right hand into the next bad pocket (not sure anymore). Then, this is vital, right foot into the higher one of the good pockets. Now barely reach the top of the flake. Sketchy clip. For the finish: First of all, rest on ledgy holds below. Don't miss the good pockets in the "pillar" on the right side of the crack. Use the first one with the right hand instead of reaching far up and right to the tempting pockets. Then use the second pocket as an undercling to get into the slit on the right. From the slit, first get the left hand in the topmost part of the crack (little finger gets stuck a bit), put the left foot on the somewhat hidden crimp in the crack, then the good hold up left is within reach. It looks too far away, but it isn't. Then just one-arm-pull yourself up, or I don't know, do what you still can at this point. |
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Thu 14th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Todsfelder Tal Haidhofer Schlossbergwand | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Haidhofer Weg Direktausstieg | 13m, 2 | |||||
7- | ★ Wespenweg | 12m, 4 | |||||
Wed 13th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Graischenstein Graischenstein-Hinterer Teil | |||||||
6- | ★★ EPA - with Peter Zahn | 12m, 3 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Schweizer Käse - with Peter Zahn | 10m, 4 | |||||
5- | ★★ Spirale - with Peter Zahn | 14m | |||||
6 | ★★ Evas Bauch - with Peter Zahn | 14m, 4 | |||||
6 | ★★ Jubelweg - with Peter Zahn | ||||||
6- | ★ Waschbärbauch - with Peter Zahn | 12m, 4 | |||||
4+ ~5- | ★ Adams Rippe - with Peter Zahn | 12m, 4 | |||||
7- | ★ Käsemaus - with Peter Zahn | 8m, 2 | |||||
6- | ★ Waschbärbauch | 12m, 4 | |||||
6 | ★★ Jubelweg | ||||||
4+ | ★ Adams Rippe | 12m, 4 | |||||
6 | ★★ Evas Bauch | 14m, 4 | |||||
3 3 - 4- | ★ Enger Kamin | 10m | |||||
Wed 13th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Graischenstein Graischenstein-Vorderer Teil | |||||||
7 | ★ Erwin Kohler Gedenkweg (Erwin Kohler Ged.-Weg) | 15m | |||||
Wed 13th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Graischenstein Graischenstein-Hinterer Teil | |||||||
7 | ★★ En Mobilette | 10m | |||||
Wed 13th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Oberes Wiesenttal Steinfelder Wand | |||||||
6- | ★ Rocky Kremer Gedenkweg - with JanyBusters, kbecan | 20m | |||||
6 | ★ R4b - with JanyBusters, kbecan | 14m | |||||
8- | ★★ Klimbim - with JanyBusters, kbecan | 10m | |||||
8- | ★★ Klimbim - with JanyBusters, kbecan | 10m | |||||
Wed 13th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Großenoher Tal Rechte Dörnhofer Wände | |||||||
6+ | ★ Neuer Weg - with Harald | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Also very nice in the beginning. Used to branch out to the right to follow "Rechter Weg", but nowadays is climbed directly via the mossy slab and a little overhang. Another one that should be done much more often.
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6+ | ★★ Rechter Weg - with Harald | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fantastic dihedral in the beginning. The traverse to the right is hardly worth mentioning, but the traverse back to the left is a typical little boulder puzzle with more than perfect protection (the Bühler bolts are in the same positions as the old rusty pegs used for aid climbing).
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5+ | ★ Talseite - with Harald | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Surprisingly good despite the vegetation. A little chossy in the crux, but not too bad, then easier with lots of solid little spikes.
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6+ | ★ Ostwand dritter Turm - with Harald | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Good #warmup. The rock quality is better than it looks, nevertheless some care is necessary. Nice wall climbing, quite long.
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6 6+ | ★ Schöne Kante - with Harald | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
A lot of slopers in the beginning, then nice climbing along the arête. Nice and long, should be done more often, the vegetation is taking over.
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Wed 13th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Richard-Wagner-Fels | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Alter Weg - with Nia O'Connor | 40m | |||||
6- | ★ Adolf Göttner Gedenkweg - with Nia O'Connor | 40m, 4 | |||||
8+ | ★★★ Fight Gravity - with Nia O'Connor | 16m | |||||
Tue 12th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Weihersbachtal Entenstein | |||||||
7B | ★★★ Patcha Mama | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Lots of sessions over 3 years Klumpertal kingline. After more than 30 moves you finally reach the crux :-D
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Tue 12th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Märchenwand | |||||||
7 | ★ Alter Knabe | 12m | |||||
7
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7- | ★★ Steig nicht aus | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- Short, but quite continuous
Hard |
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7+ | ★ Nikolaus | 12m | |||||
7+
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Tue 12th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Leykauf Gedenkwand | |||||||
8- | Heidi Line | Average | |||||
nur die Crux bis zum 2.Haken ausgecheckt. Undankbar für Kleine.
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8 | ★★ Panta Rhei | 16m | ★ Good | ||||
der obere Teil entschädigt für den unteren
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8+ | ★ The Dude Abides | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
rechts oder doch lieber links vom Haken am Wulst?
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Tue 12th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Streitberger Schild | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Streitberger Wand - with Bovist | 30m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had to fight with vegetation on the first 8 meters a bit, but triumphed. The first piece of protection is a rusty peg with a ring, not exactly trustworthy, but not a lot of good placements around, so it's best to wrap a sling around it. A meter above, there's a mediocre slot for a small silver Dragon cam. Beautiful traverse to the left to the first actual bolt of the route. From then on, it's well-protected and worthwhile. In fantastic, pristine rock up through an overhang to a narrow ledge below a roof. The book case is sadly missing. Another traverse to the left below the roof on jugs, then airy bridging via a block into the chimney, which is unfortunately quite brittle. It's best to crawl up to the vista and walk down.
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Tue 12th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Oberes Wiesenttal Eiserne Jungfrau | |||||||
7+ 7+/8- | ★ Landlord | 15m, 4 | |||||
7+ 7+/8- | ★ Rocklord | 15m, 4 | |||||
5 | Hack mit Auge | 11m, 3 | |||||
7+ | ★ Ground zero | 18m, 7 | |||||
8 | ★ Run to the Hills | 18m, 6 | |||||
Tue 12th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Wolfsberger Grotte | |||||||
6 | ★ Gell, Nancy - with Nia O'Connor | 10m | |||||
6+ | ★ Superhussy - with Nia O'Connor | 10m, 5 | |||||
7+ | ★ Bambus - with Nia O'Connor | 10m, 4 | |||||
9- | ★★★ Orang Utan - with Nia O'Connor | 12m, 7 | |||||
Tue 12th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Wolfsberger Block | |||||||
6 | ★ Nordkante - with Nia O'Connor | 15m | |||||
6- | ★★ Fuchsensteiner - with Nia O'Connor | 15m | |||||
Mon 11th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Hiltpoltstein Stumpfelestein | |||||||
3+ | Westwand | 10m | |||||
8+ | Oldie (Linker Nordriß) | 10m, 4 | |||||
Mon 11th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Hiltpoltstein Ittlinger Wand | |||||||
6 | ★ R9 | 18m, 4 | |||||
7 | ★★ R4 | 16m, 4 | |||||
7 | ★ R4a | 16m, 4 | |||||
Mon 11th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Frankendorf Kreuzerwand | |||||||
5- 5 | ★ Ostkante - with Revo | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Climbed the original line, which traverses in from the left via the obvious diagonal ledge on beautiful holds! Arguably better and certainly easier than the start indicated by the first bolt (which you can hardly reach this way). Nice moves on the arête to the top.
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5 | ★ Nordwand - with Revo | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Elegant and beautiful wall climbing in solid rock (only one wobbly little block, but that one should be safe for a good while).
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5 | ★ Dragonerwand - with Revo | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice crack dihedral to the first bolt (careful with the big flake, don't pull it too hard). Climbed the original line (I think) which traverses left at the first bolt to avoid the even more brittle part of the flake, then goes back up to the right, all the while following the most solid portions of the wall (the old farts were much more sensible in this respect …).
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Mon 11th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Graischer Bleisteinwände Linke Wände | |||||||
6- | ★ Broken Heart | 10m, 2 | Average | ||||
6- | ★ Broken Heart | 10m, 2 | Average | ||||
Mon 11th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Frankendorf Dragonerwand | |||||||
3 | Engelhardt-Kamin | 15m | |||||
Would be easy to protect via the chockstones. The upper part is more like a gully, you can walk up the dirt or stem your way further up to a nearby bolt.
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Mon 11th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | |||||||
7+ | ★★★ Lebe deinen Traum | 25m | ★★★ Classic |