Ascents in Krottenseer Forst

One move wonder crux after the easy start, depends on if you can pull on the small, bumpy crimp and maintain body tension to get up to the pocket. The 8- that follows is still demanding, both technical and sustained. Good line and rock quality, too.

Looks quite featureless from below and it turns out to be quite stiff indeed. Took me a good while to find the good hold. The overhang in the end is comparatively easy. Nice route.

Nice warmup, the crack is still a bit dirty but there are enough holds to climb it as a dihedral. Nice black rock.

Not easy to climb the crack to the first bolt. Didn't have it preclipped, but the draw was already in, which helped. The rest of the route is best climbed a little on the left, which makes the new warmup route there a little irritating, feels so close … the line looks more promising than the climb eventually is, but it's still nice if you disregard that.

Well … such a shame. The pockets up to and slightly above the first bolt are fantastic, the texture and colour of the rock is amazing. But then it suddenly stops. Also barely any chalk marks above that point. I bet a jug must have broken off, otherwise this is certainly not climbable for 9-. Dynamically into a bad mono, then another bad mono, then what? Jump a full meter to a mediocre pocket? I don't think so.

Short, burly crack with awkward moves.

Visually the best line in this part of the wall. Also a great climb. Steep pockets in the first part, then a glory jug in the middle, followed by some awesome technical trickery in the upper part. Took the undercling above the bad little crimps as an overhead gaston (is that a thing?) to get my feet up, risky to try this in the onsight but it paid off!

Wow, adventurous and definitely a proud onsight for me! I expected more than 6b but this was quite hard! I was happy I could manage the bouldery start right away – one finger was a little numb after one pointy pocket. The juggy blocks above the boulder look rather chossy and the moves from the no hands ledge further up are tough because of polished footholds. The victory jug before the route eases off, is a small herb garden and I almost slipped off. Not possible to remove that with a regular brush. I respect the original grade but I think in a modern context, also considering the added difficulty of the now polished holds, this would be somewhere in the 6c to 6c+ range. After doing it only once, I think I can't upgrade it that much though. But maybe it has always been a little sandbagged.

Nicely textured rock but very easy for the most part. The crux is okay - not very interesting as it's basically a balancy reach to a jug. Still a nice climb.

Tried to follow the crack.

Nice one! Great gym like climbing, if you know where to go. 2nd go #sportRP

There's nothing specifically bad about this route, I just didn't like it very much. Awkward climbing.

Hard to read, and sustained climbing, I barely made it through! Surprisingly, the overhanging finish was the easiest part.

Solid warmup.

I pre-clipped the first bolt, which quickly turned out to be the right choice. It's weird and tricky to climb, and gets even harder to the second bolt, along the thin crack. Apparently, sneaking to the left where it's easier is the name of the game here. Bit disappointing that you can't really climb the line.

Seems to be a great route! I couldn't do the crux move from the tiny crimp to the pocket, but it's doable. The rest is strenuous yet enjoyable. I should give it another shot when I'm stronger.

3 sessions

Hard

Und nochmal, völlig erschöpft. Aber immerhin endlich brauchbare Lösungen gefunden!

Die crux macht mich fertig 😂

Im Riss coole Züge.

Ist ja nur ganz unten ne eigene Route, da aber schöne Taschenkletterei.

Nettes aufwärmen.

Wie schade, sauber bis zur Schlüsselstelle gekommen, echt gutes Gefühl gehabt.