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Südwand Rock climbing 13 routes in sector

  • Grade context: UIAA
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 29
  • Aka: Dreierweg
13
UIAA
5-5+67-7+8

Seasonality

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Description

The popular face of the 'Blicklesfels' with classic cracks and clefts.

Access issues inherited from Blicklefels

All routes in the 'Westwand' which go through the big cave and in the 'Südwand' the 'Bruderweg' are closed.

Ethic inherited from Donautal

Leave no trace

  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.

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Routes

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1
5 ★★ Blicklekante Sport 80m, 4, 4
1 5- 20m
2 4+ 20m
3 5 20m
4 5 20m

Bolts per pitch: 1, 4, 2, 3

Abseil on route. Second pitch (crossing) needs to be climbed back!

FA: Blickle

2
6 Bruderweg Sport
Closed

FA: Fodor & Fodor, 1988

3
6+ ★★ Pfeilerweg Mixed trad 30m, 5
4
5- ★★ Dreierweg Sport 60m, 2, 8

FA: Blickle, 1933

5
6 ★★★ Abendtraum Sport 30m

FA: Kreiner, 1984

6
6 ★★ Kurzschluss Sport 5m, 1

Short connection between the end of the first pitch of 'Pfeilerweg' into 'Abendtraum'.

FA: Fodor & Fodor, 1990

7
7+ ★★ The Mad Fvos... Sport 15m

FA: Frenzl & Johannes, 1988

8
8 Albtraum Sport

FA: Bihrer, 1983

9
6+ ★★ Hurenfurche Mixed trad 40m, 2, 6

The first pitch shares the first meters with the 'Via Lochus'. After the 5th bolt it turns left to a dihedral with a crack. The belay anchor is shared with the 'Dreierweg'. From there climb to the right (3m) and follow the hand wide crack. There are two slings in the crack. Friends 1-4 may be useful. At the top you will find to bolts which are the lower off point of 'Gailtalerin', 'Via Lochus' and 'Walzkante'. You may climb a little further to reach another belay at the end of 'Albtraum'.

FA: Kiene & Feederle, 1977

10
5 ★★ Via Lochus Sport 40m, 2, 8

Quite hard start which is officially rated as 5+. The first 4 bolts are shared with 'Hurenfurche' then head right into direction of the tunnel pitch. The belay is directly underneath the tunnel.

FA: Neugart & Hörmann, 1968

11
7 Gailtalerin Trad

FA: Neubaur & Schillinger, 1976

12
6- Walzkante links Mixed trad 2, 3
1 3
2 6-

Left variant of 'Walzkante'.

13
6- ★ Walzkante Sport 40m, 2, 4
1 3
2 6-

FA: Walz

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Donautal Kletterführer

Author(s): Georg Hermann, Ronald Nordmann

Date: 2020

ISBN: 978-3-95611-126-6

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6 ★★★ Abendtraum

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★★ Via Lochus 5 - Via Lochus

Südwand

★★ Via Lochus 5 - Das Loch der Via Lochus

Wed 3 May
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