Ascents of Eros Telendos

Tremendous climb of two halves. Pump management and commitment to some big moves in the bottom half then some nice 6b slab for the second half

7a+ in local guidebook but 7b on Rockfax guidebook. Guess I'll take the 7b

tr flash

Too soft soft for 7b. guidebook also gives 7a+

Actually didn't mind the upper techy part, it's a nice contrast to the pumpyness in the first half.

Sent on second go. Beautiful and keeps going for ages.

Stop before the coral slab if you want a better climb.

Couldn't believe I pulled through on this. Can definitely feel the improvements in stamina after over a week here. Ivan went first but bailed after the first three draws so I guess it was part flash. Awesome and steep through the first half but then some weird spikey slab up top. Three lines of bolts all sharing the same holds. Bizarre.

The first half to ~20m is awesome. Steep thuggy tufas and pockets. The top 15m is complete junk. Sharp coral, unpleasant moves too close to the next route. I found out later this route was extended after the first ascent - huge mistake. Lower the anchors and restore a classic, I say!

Pumpy, juggy, reachy - fantastic! And a really technical ending to top it off. But not 7b.

Kul led med massor av bra grepp. Kanske lite lätt för sin grad.

fantastic climbing in the first half, then only pain