Ascents in Mangorewa

all individual moves are easy enough but putting it together has been a bit of a challenge. kept pumping out after the crux just before the climbing really eases off haha... one of them days. This one would be a mega classic but the perma wet jug lets it down, this thing f **cked up 2 of my attempts today but that's just how it goes... Draws are still on ready for a few more attempts tomorrow, might take a freaking blow torch to that wet hold though

Good warm up route, solid move rocking over onto the ledge haha

Second attempt went up wrong hand to the chicken head and punted off after the crux... poor performance but this has a solid crux in it. The bolt at the crux is terrible placement as that’s where you want to put your foot and when heeling around the arete to make the next draw if you fall you’re upside down taking a head banger so wear a helmet

Sent first attempt this morning, felt easy, no pump, no hard moves took it slow and steady

Hard 25 maybe 26... harder than dr Zeus, onto tanemahuta to see if they compare in difficulty. Hated it till I sent it the repeated for filming

Hard 25 maybe 26... harder than dr Zeus, onto tanemahuta to see if they compare in difficulty. Hated it till I sent it the repeated for filming

The draws were in so had to give it a go. The draws felt a little further apart to the rest of the route. I was chuffed to keep working my way up until I ran out of puff.

farkin scary

shat my pants

Second go

Bolt hanger missing and bird nesting in jug

What a fight, felt lost for holds/beta through the two cruxs, but eventually found the way. Rope drag was real lol.

Mega rad!

Really cool route. Very substain. Worked out all the move except the start

Great lower section. Tough steeper section to finish. 18+?

I set-up the route as a warmup and a top-rope for others but could not get it done clean. Quite hard for a 17 but significantly easier than Double Happy.

Nice and juggy most of the way. Need to think a little where a totara tree is a bit in the way as you go up the overhanging section.

Nice climb, I was pumped af at the top but I was also super tired. I accidentally went too far right and clipped the anchors of the route next to it instead of correct anchors (I fixed it by traversing to the correct anchors but had already yelled "take" and hung at other ones, then pulled on chains to unclip and blah blah blah) sigh

Surprisingly hard moves from getting from the tree up to the next ledge.

Surprisingly hard moves from getting from the tree up to the next ledge.

Easy and enjoyable. The rock is pocked and full of holds.