Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Shagadelic Buttress | |||||
21 | Fancy a Shag on the Beach?
FA: Mark Brignole, 2004 | 7 | |||
20 | ★ The Shag Who Spied Me
FA: Phil Castle, 2004 | ||||
19 | ★ International Man of Mystery
FA: Simon Middlemass, 2004 | 15m | |||
18 | ★★ A Date With Felicity Shagwell
FA: Simon Middlemass, 2004 | 15m | |||
20 | ★★ More Rad Than Trad
Takes the overhanging wall on the western end of the beach, adjacent to the main wall. FA: Phil Castle, 2005 | 10m, 3 | |||
17 | Sunset Cruise
Walk right through the hole beyond More Rad Than Trad to find a neat little overhanging orange wall around the corner. Climb the lay-back flake starting left below it. FA: Michael Cartwright, 2014 | 4 | |||
The Huntley and Palmers Wafer | |||||
20 | ★ It Is What It Is
FA: Mike McManaway, 2005 | ||||
22 | ★★ All I Ever Wanted Was Dialysis
FA: Mike Brewer, 1995 | 10m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Go Side On
FA: Al Ritchie, 1996 | 4 | |||
21 | ★★ Neptune's Gift
Crux on lower half. Anchor after three bolts. Alternatively continue through to the Concrete Rain anchor with another bolt in between. FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | 10m, 3 | |||
21 | ★★ Concrete Rain
FA: Haig Rice, 1997 | 4 | |||
17 | Harry the Pothead Gets Philosophers Stoned
FA: Simon Middlemass, 2004 | 12m | |||
14 | The Mermaid's Tale
FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | ||||
16 | ★ Big Boy
| ||||
19 | ★★ Miss Precocious Tongue
| ||||
21 | Oogga Chaakka
FA: Jon Sedon | ||||
Cathedral Rock | |||||
14 | ★ Onde di Pietra
Starts just over the fence on the far left side of the crag. FA: Diego Depretto, 2010 | 9m, 4 | |||
16 | ★ Muccavello
FA: Diego Depretto, 2010 | 10m, 5 | |||
16 | Bravo Riamondo
FA: Diego Depretto, 2010 | 12m, 6 | |||
17 | ★ Il Bar
FA: Diego Depretto, 2010 | 8 | |||
19 | ★★ Andrea
FA: Diego Depretto, 2010 | 15m, 9 | |||
17 | ★★ Nana
FA: Diego Depretto, 2010 | 15m, 9 | |||
20 | ★ Fischia
Arete to the left of the chimney. FA: Diego Depretto, 2010 | 15m, 8 | |||
16 | ★★ Dolomites Dream
Climb inside the chimney. FA: Diego Depretto, 2010 | 19m, 8 | |||
15 | ★★ Joe Dirt
Ends on last two bolts of Dirty Old Men. This is the route name of Dolomite Dream in some guidebooks and is fully bolted. FA: Torquil Bennett & Dan Kojetin, 2003 | 19m, 8 | |||
20 | ★ Buon Giorno Principessa
Climbs the cool feature to the right of the chimney. FA: Diego Depretto, 2010 | 19m, 9 | |||
16 | ★ Dirty Old Men
FA: Simon Middlemass, 1998 | 21m, 8 | |||
16 | ★ Neanche Dare Baci
Shares the first 2 bolts with Dirty Old Men | 21m, 9 | |||
16 | ★★ Mohrele
| 24m, 11 | |||
17 | ★★ Marisol
Directly left of Stairway of the Gods. Long well-bolted climb with a couple of good rests and positive holds. Possible to skip the first bolt. FA: Diego Depretto, 2010 | 26m, 13 | |||
17 | ★★ Stairway Of The Gods
Starts up yellow rock. FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | 25m, 9 | |||
18 | ★★ Ambrosia
Starts up grey pillar in center of wall, drifting rightwards. Sustained crimps. FA: Matt Quirke, Craig Robinson & Kristen Foley, 1993 | 26m, 8 | |||
17 | ★★ Tusk
FA: Lizzard, 1998 | 27m, 8 | |||
18 | ★★ Stella Blue
FA: Willie Butler, 2000 | 30m, 10 | |||
17 | ★ Black Marigolds
Direct start to 'Tales from the Sea'. FA: Mr Butler, 2001 | 25m | |||
15 | ★★ Tales From The Sea
FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | 19m, 8 | |||
18 | ★ Something Wicked
FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | 15m, 8 | |||
16 | ★ White Pointer
FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | 15m, 5 | |||
17 | ★★ Gecko Crack
FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | 15m, 4 | |||
The Tower | |||||
18 | ★★ The Jagged Edge
Arete on right side of the tower that faces Marina. Starts just next to the Cosmic Wunder-Krunch wall Climb up 'steps' just to right of tower (bolts on tower) until passing the mud/clay layer. Switch across to tower and follow aréte to the top. Fantastic route, would be three stars but for some loose rock. There is a small sign at base. FA: Phil Castle, 2014 | 30m, 10 | |||
Dr Livingstone wall | |||||
14 | ★★ Stairway to Heaven
Climb the arete on the very left side of Dr Livingston wall. Not very ideal on Toprope, but it is a perfect route to gain some confidence leading routes as it is very well bolted. 10B+anchor FA: Norci | 25m, 10 | |||
14 | ★★ Heaven is a halfpipe
Starts a few meters right to the arete, belay on the little ledge. FA: Jordan Widodo | 26m, 10 | |||
16 | ★★ Teaching Aliens to Speak English
FA: Stu Arnold, 2002 | 26m, 6 | |||
18 | ★ Shooting Star
1
18
2
14
FA: P Bear, 2001 | 30m, 2, 7 | |||
19 | ★ Making Tracks
FA: Willie Butler, 2002 | 20m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ Dr Gnarly and the Big Burn
FA: Tony Clearwater, 1995 | 25m, 9 | |||
Cosmic Wunder Krunch wall | |||||
18 | The Jagged Edge
The only climb going up the Tower. Follow arete. FA: 2014 | 9 | |||
16 | ★ Bullseye
FA: Ricky Hambrook | 10m, 5 | |||
17 | ★★ Organic Cocoa Nibs
FA: Michael, Tamara Cartwright & 2014, 2014 | 12m | |||
16 | ★ Hello Ground
FA: Mike Hambrook, 2001 | 10m, 5 | |||
17 | Hannahlujah
| 8m | |||
14 | Before The Rain
FA: Kirstie McLeod, 2001 | 8m, 3 | |||
Hangover Heights | |||||
17 | ★ Andy’s Pants
Rightmost route. Has other climbs above the first pitch (all 22s). | 10m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Bender
Starts from the Andy's Pants anchor. FA: Phil Castle, 2012 | ||||
17 | Fate Smiled
!Anchor is rusted away! This is the first pitch of a 2 pitch line - the second pitch being called "Destiny Laughed" FA: Willie Butler, 2002 | 6 | |||
Deep Throat | |||||
17 | Fate Smiled
FA: Willie Butler, 2002 | 20m, 6 | |||
20 | ★★ Destiny Laughed
The second pitch of Fate Smiled. Can be linked with Fate Smiled if long draws are used. FA: Willie Butler, 2002 | 13m, 5 | |||
The Games Room | |||||
19 | Shaolin Style
Beware of powerlines when cleaning route. FA: Kane Henderson, 2000 | 6 | |||
19 | Doom
FA: P Bear, 1999 | 6 | |||
20 | ★★ Krissy's Magic Cokies
Left of Nek Minute, dry in most rain. FA: Craig Alter, Jun 2014 | 16m, 6 | |||
Trench Town | |||||
19 | Miss Precocious Tongue
FA: Simon Middlemass, 1999 | 4 | |||
20 | Oooga Chaaka
FA: John Sedon, 1999 | 5 | |||
22 | Soul Shakedown Party
FA: Mark Brignole, 2004 | 4 | |||
19 | Kaya
FA: Simon Middlemass, 2004 | 4 | |||
Sea Grass Wall | |||||
15 | ★ Sunset Boulevard
The furthest left climb on the arete. FA: Diego Depretto, 2010 | 9m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ Guardian Angel
FA: Chris Burtenshaw, 1998 | 10m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ The Devil Made Me Do It
Between Guardian Angel and Shotgun Therapy. FA: Diego Depretto, 2010 | ||||
21 | ★ Shotgun Therapy
Trend right after last bolt to join HIG near the top. FA: Chris Burtenshaw, 1998 | 15m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ Hymen Ice Girl
FA: Chris Burtenshaw, 1998 | 4 | |||
20 | ★ X Factor
FA: Phil Castle, 2009 | 5 | |||
15 | ★ R for Roger
FA: Willie Butler, 1998 | 4 | |||
19 | Love Triangle
FA: P Bear, 2000 | 1 | |||
15 | Am I Pleased to See You or Have I Got a Pick Axe in My Rack?
FA: P Bear, 2000 | 12m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Unzip A Banana
FA: P Bear, 1999 | 13m, 3 | |||
16 | ★★ Family Affair
The white flow streak. FA: Diego Depretto, 2010 | 14m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Yoghurt On Yer Tackle
FA: Willie Butler, 2000 | 13m, 4 | |||
18 | ★★ Hair On A G-String
FA: Willie Butler, 2000 | 15m, 4 | |||
18 | ★★ Woosh
FA: Willie Butler, 1998 | 13m, 4 | |||
16 | ★ Thrust
Shares first bolt with HHB. FA: Bianca Walker, 1999 | 13m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Suck on this
Second pitch of Thrust. FA: Bianca Walker, 1999 | 13m, 4 | |||
17 | ★★ Hi Big Boy
FA: Willie Butler, 1998 | 15m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Up Against The Wall M.F.
FA: Willie Butler, 1998 | 13m | |||
16 | ★ Some Like it Hot
FA: Kristie Macleod, 2002 | 13m, 5 | |||
Unknown
Crack to the right of "Some Like it Hot". FA: Brian Tuffnell | |||||
17 | Curiosity
Left of 'Pussy Dancing' | 15m, 6 | |||
17 | ★ Pussy Dancing
| 15m, 5 | |||
16 | ★★ Franklin's Tower
Easy pulling on quality rock. Bell signifies victory FA: P Bear, 2000 | 26m, 9 | |||
The Black Vegetable wall | |||||
15 | Brain Dead
Rebolted with Glue-Ins 2023 | ||||
18 | ★ Ruby Tuesday
CLOSED - Under renovation, coming soon! | ||||
17 | ★ Hummingbird
ReBolted. | ||||
16 | Sweet Jane
ReBolted. | ||||
23 | ★★ Perseverance
The overhanging arete on the right end of the Black Vegetable Wall. Until first anchor it’s a 15. Keep climbing for some harder stuff FA: Phil Castle, Jan 2022 | 20m, 8 | |||
10 | Menage d trois
Corner crack | 6 | |||
14 | First the Poetry then ...
Rebolted 2023 | 15m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Sausage Time
| 20m, 6 | |||
21 | ★★ Rumpy Pumpy
| 22m, 5 | |||
21 | Joker Man
Climb with either two ropes or in two pitches. FA: Willie Butler, 2000 | 11 | |||
16 | Nipple
FA: P Bear, 1998 | 8m, 3 | |||
14 | Malinka
FA: Misha Graham, 2001 | 8m, 1 | |||
Why? Wall | |||||
16 | Nipple
On a seperate rock, opposite of 'As Good As I Gets' Duplicate also on 'The Black Vegetable Wall' | 9m, 1 |