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Routes as sport in Lyttelton Rock

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Showing all 91 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Susie's Slab
19 Susie's Slab

FA: Merv English, 1983

Sport 9m, 1
23 Pumping Susie

FA: Marcus Thomas, 2003

Sport 9m, 2
23 Pumping Velvet

FA: Ton Snelder, 1984

Sport 9m, 2
Left Side
19 Hex Arête

FA: John Chambers, 1996

Sport 12m
20 Afghan Bandit

FA: Lindsay Main, 1983

Sport 13m
23 Idol Boys

FA: Paul Jackson & John Chambers, 1997

Sport 12m, 3
20 Eight Million Years

FA: Lindsay Main, 2000

Sport 14m, 4
21 Velvet Prescribed

FA: John Chambers, 1992

Sport 14m, 5
19 Dumping Velvet

FA: Joe Arts, 1983

Sport 14m, 2
Feeding Time Area
23 Red Herring

FA: Tony Burnell, 13 Feb 2020

Sport 15m, 5
24 Red Wall

FA: Tony Burnell, 1996

Sport 15m, 5
23 Red Dwarf

FA: Tony Burnell, Mar 2020

Sport 15m, 5
21 Diamond Head

On the blunt arete left of Prophet of Doom.

FA: 22 Dec

Sport 12m, 5
23 Prophet of Doom

FA: cragrat, 1990

Sport 12m, 5
17 Calling All Sportclimbers

Climb Steppenwolf to the ledge then follow a faint weakness between Steppenwolf and Restless.

FA: Joe Arts, 1989

Sport 16m, 2
19 An Alpinist Answers

FA: John Entwisle

Sport 16m, 2
19 Restless

FA: Joe Arts, 1982

Sport 16m, 2
24 Restless Direct

FA: Tony Burnell, 2019

Sport 16m, 3
18 Mistery

FA: Simon Middlemass, 2001

Sport 16m, 2
Rage Wall
19/20 Out On A Limb

FA: John Birch, 1990

Sport 18m, 5
21 Into The Trees

Direct start into White Lies, toprope by preclipping first bolt, or else solo/boulder? up to it, possibly place some gear to the right, but why bother

FA: Ton Snelder, 1990

Sport 18m, 2
27 Prize Fighter

Starts just left of Leaning Wall, on big holds to the first bolt. A fierce crux presents itself immediately off of the ledge, then eases to a juggy ramble. Join Leaning Wall above the last bolt.

FFA: Owen Davies

Set: Tony Burrell

Sport 18m, 8
21 Leaning Wall

Climb onto ledge then onto block, then ascend the steep featured wall, to the left of the vegetated crack.

FA: Tony Burnell, 2013

Sport 20m, 7
19 Carbon Neutral

FA: Grant Piper, 2013

Sport 20m, 7
25 Pulling on Pinches

Bouldery moves through the overhang to the right of Carbon Neutral. Above the roof, carry on up the arête.

FA: Tony Burrell, 2013

Sport 20m, 8
24 Spoonerism

FA: Tony Burnell, 1997

Sport 20m, 8
25 Ground Effect

FA: Tony Burnell, 1998

Sport 20m, 6
25 Effectively Ravished

Climb Ground Effect to the second bolt, then join Victim of Ravishment to finish. Possibly the hardest line on the wall, though probably not harder than Raj or Ground Effect by a full grade.

Sport
22 The Active Ingredient

What was once a very bold mixed line is now a fully bolted sport route. Start as for Victim, but follow the arching flake left at the 3rd bolt, the angle straight up at the 5th.

FA: Roger Parkyn, 1985

Sport 23m, 6
22 Bodies

Once one of the most heads up routes around, this line has recently been retrobolted and is now a sport climb. Start up Victim but instead of breaking right at the flake, carry on straight up. Excellent, sustained movement and good rock.

FA: Ton Snelder, 1985

Sport 23m, 7
22 Victim Of Ravishment

Start up the cracks and moving left as for the Active Ingredient, then move back right off the big flake to the second bolt. There is a good cam placement after the third bolt, and the angle eases, but still exciting to the top.

FA: Ton Snelder, 1985

Sport 23m, 5
24 Victim of Ravishment Direct Start

Start behind the horopito tree to the right of the standard start. Move up the thin wall past 2 bolts then join the standard route at the 3rd. Pumpy if you avoid the rest left of the 3rd bolt.

Sport 6
21 Buddies

rebolted by Tony in 2016, this is a great warm-up or a good lead for those breaking into 20 on lead. Climbs good flat holds just left of the vegetation and up into the quake scar at the top.

FA: Tony Burnell, 1998

Sport 20m, 8
Mr Clean Wall
21 Drop Out

FA: Tony Burnell

Sport 18m, 6
27 How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018

Sport 4
32 Dr Strangelove

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018

Sport 14m, 6
26 Fillet of Arnold

The line of 4 bolts immediately right of the Scratching Julius crack. Boulder up to the top of the shield feature, where you will find consistently engaging climbing all the way to the anchors, on some of the best rock in the Port Hills. This route is safely bolted, but prepare for air time if you come off!

FA: Ton Snelder, 1989

Sport 19m, 4
23 Getting Rid Of Mr Clean

The bolts are perfectly placed, as long as you don't fall at the start... or the end. Good climbing.

FA: Ton Snelder, 1984

Sport 19m, 3
26 Citizen Four

Start just right of Citizen Kane at the obvious fridge feature. Yes, it is possible to climb into the corner right of the bolt line for 24 points, but the better option is to take the direct line up the fridge, as intended. Some creative beta leads to better holds above the second bolt, to an easier but pumpy finish.

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2018

Sport 19m, 5
23 Sting

The line of bolts immediately to the left of Hornet's Nest. Ascend to a small roof where you can find the first bolt, then make big moves on mostly good but sometimes hard to see holds for the next several bolts.

FA: Tony Burnell

Sport 16m, 5
Year Right Wall
18 Zombie Fodder

FA: Grant Piper, 2015

Sport 17m, 5
23 Retrobolitix

FA: Kevin Barratt & Grant Piper, 2014

Sport 20m, 5
20 Minimal Disturbance

FA: Grant Piper & Dave Van Der Kraben, 2014

Sport 23m, 6
24/25 Arm & Hammer

Start between Minimal Disturbance and Funication, in the middle of the main part of the Year Right Wall. Climb the surprisingly technical slab, then surmount the roof following the v-groove. Execute a mantle and then ramble to the top, linking into the last two bolts of Funication.

FA: David Jefferson, 21 Feb

Sport 18m, 6
18 Funacation

Start in the largish left facing corner around to the left of Nanny State below the roofs. Climb up the corner and out to a ledge to the right. Then climb up the bulge and up and left on slabs to the anchor.

FA: Grant Piper, 2014

Sport 22m, 7
17 Wiki Leaks

Up narrow dihedral section to high first bolt. Climbs then easily to rap station.

FA: Grant Piper, 2011

Sport 20m, 5
18 Nanny State

FA: Kevin Barratt, 2011

Sport 20m, 6
23 Grace

FA: Dave Van Der Kraben, 2014

Sport 15m, 4
The Thunderdome
22 Hyperspace

FA: Ton Snelder, 1991

Sport 18m, 4
24 Arms Race

Starts in the corner to the left of Layer Cake and joins this route in the overhanging chimney.

FA: Tony Burnell, Dec 2017

Sport 12m, 6
25 Layer Cake

At the left hand end of The Thunderdome, goes directly up through the groove in the roof to the left of Gone Bimbo.

FA: Tony Burnell

Sport 12m, 6
27 Gone Bimbo

The obvious line on the L end of the roof. Often wet. Pull to the fourth bolt then traverse R along the crack. Previously required a cam at the end of the traverse; now there's an extra bolt. There's also a new anchor to the left of the original anchor, which has rusted badly. Numerous variations exist.

FA: Ton Snelder, 1989

Sport 12m, 7
25/26 Gone Bimbo Direct Finish

Climb the standard version of Gone Bimbo, but at the first permadraw on the traverse, instead of continuing right go straight through the roof on good holds to finish at a separate anchor. Using the original (low) beta to get established on the traverse gets you 26 points, whilst the new (high) beta only warrants 25.

FA: Peter Carter, 1990

Sport 12m, 5
28 Alternative Traverse

FA: Andy Cockburn, 1993

Sport 12m, 6
27 Gone Bimbo Direct Start

FA: Lionel Clay, 1989

Sport 12m, 5
27 Carnivore

FA: Peter Taw, 1993

Sport
27 Mysterious Swine Disease

Gymnastic and steep moves almost directly out the wall, going slightly left to finish at top of Gone Bimbo. Good edges if a bit sharp, and plenty of bolts!

FA: Pete Taw, 1992

Sport 12m, 7
26 Swine Fever

Start as for Mysterious Swine Disease. At the second bolt, instead of breaking out left, continue straight up over the roof and into a right facing corner. Surmount another roof to reach easy ground and the anchor.

FA: Tony Burnell

Sport 11m, 5
27 Pump Cake

Climb Mega Pump but instead of going straight up at the left end of the Gone Bimbo traverse, continue left to link into Layer Cake.

Sport 8
29 Kublai Khan

FA: Sefton Priestley, 2004

Sport 15m, 4
28 Creatures of Power

Start in the permanently oozy, mossy corner to the right of Kubla Khan. Surmount the first roof by pulling a hard boulder problem, then continue up and slightly right past two additional overhangs. Easier but slopey ground leads to the anchor.

FA: Peter Taw

Sport 15m, 5
26 The Power of Khan

Climb the first 3 bolts of Powerless Creatures, then traverse left across Creatures of Power to finish up Kublai Khan.

Sport 6
26 Powerless Creatures

An easier variant start to 'Creatures of Power' Start in the corner right of the aforementioned route and boulder your way up through 3 bolts and turn the lip off the roof. From here, join 'CoP' and finish as for that route. NB This is not the route's original name, which appears to have been lost to time.

FA: Michael Karnick, 2010

Sport 15m, 6
25 Powerless Jockey

Climb the first 3 bolts of Powerless Creatures, then head right, clipping the first bolt of Scud Muscles, to link into Jug Jockey at its crux. Combines the best parts of both routes.

Sport 8
24 Jug Jockey

Steep and hard before you get to the jugs and then easier terrain. A spicy final jaunt leads you to the anchors.

FA: Tony Burnell, 1997

Sport 12m, 4
23 Frank's In A Frenzy

FA: Damian Carroll

Sport 10m, 5
24 Mystery

FA: Tony Burnell

Sport 15m, 5
21 Art for Art's Sake

FA: Tony Burnell, 1996

Sport 15m, 5
Ataturk Wall
21 Easter Riding

FA: Tony Burnell, 2002

Sport 20m, 8
24 Location, Location, Location

FA: Tony Burnell, 2003

Sport 20m, 6
25 Stemming Over Stu

Climb past the first 3 bolts of the Stu Allen Route / Location…, then traverse right at the ledge to join Bridging Over Lyttelton.

Sport 20m, 7
27 The Lyttelton Arms

Climb the crux of Bridging Over Lyttelton, then at the second bolt above the roof, head left to pass the final two bolts of Location… and finish as for that route. More sustained than the original, with a sting in the tail!

Sport 18m, 7
26 Bridging Over Lyttelton

FA: Rod Newburn, 1996

Sport
26 Michael Karnick Mystery

FA: Michael Karnick, 2010

Sport
24 Timberland

FA: Tony Burnell, 1997

Sport 15m, 5
27 Striking Distance

FA: Tony Burnell, 1997

Sport 4
24 Jack of All Grades

Start up Timberlands then traverse right into the corner after the second bolt. From there, follow the right-most line of bolts to the top.

FA: Tony Burnell, 21 Jan

Sport 20m, 7
21 Diablo

FA: Grant Piper, 2002

Sport 24m, 9
20 A Futile Campaign

FA: Joe Arts, 1989

Sport 24m, 7
19 A Sport Route Sport 22m, 6
19 Ataturk Strikes Again

FA: Joe Arts, 1989

Sport 18m, 6
19 Dream of White Elephants

FA: Grant Piper, 2016

Sport 22m, 6
23 Rock Shock

FA: Kynnan Bazley, 1997

Sport 18m, 4
20 Disillusions of Grandeur

Follow line of bolts up the (very) vague prow towards the right of the face. After a spicy run out to the third bolt, and a bit of grovelling to avoid the guano cave, you reach the chains.

FA: Grant Piper, 2011

Sport 18m, 7
23 Name Unknown

FA: Tony Burnell, 1996

Sport 5
23 Salome Maloney

Easily reach rooflet (can clip low first bolt to the left to avoid some rope burn falling off the roof), and continue up to the steep finish!

FA: Tony Burnell, 1997

Sport 16m, 5
22 Colonel Malone

FA: Joe Arts, 1989

Sport 18m, 4
18 Pimple On The Arse Of The Universe

FA: Joe Arts, 1989

Sport 15m, 3
15 Stainless Sproutings Sport 15m, 4
17/18 Bush Tucker

FA: Tony Burnell, 25 Jan

Sport 10m, 4
22 Bush Telegraph

FA: Tony Burnell, 2023

Sport 10m, 4

Showing all 91 routes.

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