Nodes in Karangahake Gorge

K Gorge is one of the North Islands most historic rock climbing areas, being developed mainly in the ‘70’s. Access is easy, there is a good variety of climbs of reasonable length and the swimming holes are superb. The jewel in the crown is China Wall with its long pitches on vertical rock.

The first climbs above the track you come to when following the Waitawheta River from the car park. Just around the big corner in the track is the start for Berkeley Square and Nightingale. Usually in the shade and close to water holes. Good for hot summer days.

This route routes breaks through the overhang above the pipeline at the last bend before the bridge. Aid the overhang using 2 bolts. Once a second overhang is reached climb directly up on good gear. Follow grooves and slabs by the easiest line until you can move left onto a ledge. This is shared with the top of the second pitch of Berkeley Square.

P1: Aid through same overhang as Nightingale, then move left for 7m under the big roof until a belay stance with a bolt and good wire. P2: Climb up and slightly right for 3m then move up and right on slab on top of the second overhang. Continue up groove on right and ledges to the top of Nightingale. Double bolt belay. P3: Climb out left to the rib and swing round onto slab. Climb the slab the slab to its highest point keeping to the cleanest rock. Double bolt belay. P4: Not generally climbed now but it is possible to climb further slabs up and right. Belay and descend from pine trees.

Climb the steep groove past 2 bolts and then the arête starting from the jug on the left. Climb mostly on the right of the arête from the jug past the next few bolts to where the climbing eases back to big holds. Follow your nose through the overhanging section to the belay ledge. Avoid trying to sneak around the first tricky section by grovelling up the dirty groove on the right as it is also loose (significantly easier, possibly grade 19 if the arete is avoided by climbing the groove).

Starts 20m left of the first 2 routes. It is an unpleasant dirty route starting at an obvious groove system with a hanging iron spike. Climb to the iron spike and continue in the groove, digging out gear placements as you go. Join Shadowlands belay ledge. Used to be aided past the spike (14/A1) and continued to the top of the cliff. May be harder than the grade depending on how dirty it is.

Starting upstream from the bridge, almost at water level on a blocky buttress. Climb 8m to loose ledges. Head up the groove above past a peg (crux) until you can step right onto the rib. Climb easy ground to the top. Descend back down bushy gully on the right until a sing abseil will reach the ground. This description is old and needs updating.

The obvious high-level rib overlooking the large pool upstream. It is past the old mine workings where the gorge narrows. Cross stream and head up through bush to the right of the rib. Step left for 3m until a small cave is reached. Climb out of the cave and follow a shallow corner past a peg until you can step right to easier ground. Descent via abseil. This description is old and needs updating.

Follow the main access track from the windows stairs. About halfway up to where the track branches to the shield and China wall, you will find a small track traversing right, marked by a hanging sign for the Skyline buttress. The track passes directly under the Steerpike buttress.

Climbs the left hand end of the buttress. Climb crack up to small tree. Step right onto rib and continue onto face of buttress to a small ledge. Continue up rib to good belay ledge. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Starts at the base of the overhanging rib a few meters right of Steerpike. Climb the rib direct. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

This route is found above 'Steerpike'. Climb the left hand crack up through a notch at the top. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Found beside 'Commencement Crack', leads up the slab finishing at the same notch. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

A long rib climb set behind the Steer Pike, right of Shield and Back of Beyond. P1: Start left of rib, move onto rib and continue to foot of steep section. Climb onto small ledge then sloping ledge above, continue up through small groove to belay ledges. P2 starts after a short bush bash. P2: Bridge the groove and pull through the bulge (crux), move right on sloping ledges to steep broken section, finishing on good holds. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Climbs the steep wall across the gully from the China Wall. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

A small track, marked with a hanging sign, traverses right about halfway up the main China Wall/Shield access track. If you reach the large, brown fixed line leading to the Shield, you have gone too far. Once you have located the track, follow it across, under the Steerpike buttress, up and along the base of the wall to the end. Directly above you should be the nice rock of the skyline buttress.

Climb the featured rock 2m left of the direct start to Mad Carew. Turn the overlap on the left and follow good holds on the slab to the rings.

2m left of the original Mad Carew start, climb directly to the hanging fang passing 2 bolts. Then as for Mad Carew. The recommended way to climb MC.

Starts 20m left of the other Skyline Buttress climbs. Climb into the scoop below and right of the hanging fang. Not much gear till the fang. Climb around to the left of the overhang and up the cracks to rings at the second ledge. A set of wires and cams to #4 is useful.

Climb up the slab and into the right facing corner. Awaiting info to update the bolter and FA.

5m left of Shelob the route climbs up broken ground to the slab, up the slab and then follows the streak of light rock.

A bit winding and overgrown but still a fun outing that can be done in 2 or 3 pitches. Climb the left leaning corner for 10m before making a traverse left around a corner. There is an old rusty piton above to show the way up the wall to a belay (small trees) below the overhangs. Traverse right to the large ledge common with Shelob and then up from the left end of the ledge to the large sloping ledge and bolt belay.

Climb the first 10m of Windfall but carry on directly up at the first bolt on the face to the right of the shallow corner. Nice moves lead to the good ledge. Climb past 2 bolts through a steep section between Shelob and Windfall to the rings.

An excellent climb whether done in two pitches or one long one. Climb the right side of the initial face to a ledge. Good holds and a vague groove lead to a leftwards slanting crack with a piton near the top of it. Above this easy climbing leads to a small ledge on the rib with a bolt belay. Belay here or lead on. Step left and gain a large ledge via the corner. There are 2 bolts (replacing old pitons) that protect the corner and moves off the ledge. Climb directly above the far right end of the ledge to a good wire and easy climbing to the large sloping ledge above. There is a bolt belay at the back of the ledge. A third pitch is possible above this but is very short.

Start as for Shelob to the ledge then step right and climb the groove and directly through a steeper bulge. Finish at the Shelob belay or continue to the top, climbing the arete. This 2nd pitch was bolted after originally being led on very sketchy gear in the 90's.

Climbs the skyline ridge by the easiest line commencing to the right of Shelob. Descent is by abseil. Now very overgrown and difficult to follow.

This climb may be lost to history

Starts level with and across the gully from the pine tree at the top of Shelob. Pitch 1, 15m: Climb the rib for 3m to a groove on the right. Climb the groove, step left at the top and climb up to a tree belay on the right. Pitch 2, 20m: Move left 2m to an in situ peg. With its aid gain the steep rib on the left. An extra sling used on a spike on the rib has since been eliminated. Climb the pleasant exposed rib more easily to a tree belay. Descend by abseil.

The crack above the Skyline Buttress, prominent from the bridge.

From the base of Shadowfax, traverse right along the fixed line to the end.

From the Gambatagwa belay bolt continue on the ledge until you are left of the large triangular overhang. Climb up and slanting right, turning the overhang on the left. Follow the crack until a move right can be made to a small ledge. Bolted belay here. The second pitch needs cleaning...

About 8m down and right of Bishop's Rib. [1] Up the V-groove with an obvious small tree in it (that's your protection). Step right to the rib then up to belay tree and ledge. [2] Climb the wall below the flake, then step right and up the rib to ledges and trees.

Begin betweem Flytrap and Mantrap then move left to the grooves betweem Flytrap and Bishop's Rib. [1]Up the wall to the left of the flake, then the V-groove above. Traverse left above the overhang to join the rib of Flytrap. [2] Left from the belay and up the groove on the left, left through a white streak past a very old peg. Out to the rib on the right and up an open-book corner and the wall above (crux). Move left into the top of Bishop's Rib. Descend down Bishop's Rib.

Climb the flake and shallow groove past an old peg to a tree belay. Or climb the groove from the right. [2] Step right from the belay and climb the wall left of the nose to gain a small ledge. Move left and up to belay ledges. [3] Traverse right and up a bushy groove, move out onto the rib and climb it to a ledge and tree belay.

Most of the climbs on China wall are fantastic - long, exposed and with plenty of interesting climbing.

The left most route on the wall. Some technical moves for the grade past the first few bolts followed by easier climbing to the sloping ledge.

2nd pitch to Ryobe or join both for a nice long pitch. Fantastic climbing up the steep face with regular rest possibilities.

Gain the start of the route by abseiling from the Shadowfax belay down the wall below or from Ryobe scramble diagonally down the bushy ledge. Climb the upward slanting weakness. Sustained. Ends at the belay for Shadowfax.

This climb may be lost to history

Climbs the wall left of the 1st pitch of the China Wall Climb, and finishes up the steep wall left of its 2nd pitch.

Pitch 1, 25m: Start from the gully between China Wall and The Peeler. Climb the gully for l0m to a ponga tree from which a traverse can be made horizontally right to join the ramp of China Wall. Belay near the top of the ramp, where a traverse line can be seen leading diagonally right.

Pitch 2, 25m: Traverse diagonally right to a peg in situ (as for China Wall). Then trend left to a large spike runner. Continue up the steep wall, moving right to a crack then back left to finish at the high point of the wall. Descend by a 45m abseil or by track round to the Back of Beyond.

This used to climb the crack as for Shadowfax first pitch and continue up ledges for 2 further pitches to the top.

Climb past piton to good crack. The crack leads to ledge with bolts and old pitons.

Scramble up as for shadowfax to where that climb traverses right. Clip the bolt and climb on small holds directly to the break above (crux). Continue on good holds and interesting rock to the belay ledge and bolts.

P1.(15) From the ledge scramble to the twin cracks to the left. Climb the left-hand crack to the good ledge and rings. P2.(18) From the belay ledge, climb and scramble up and establish yourself on the wall to the left of the obvious piton. Traverse right to good holds and then up into the horizontal break. There was a piton here that has since rusted out but a large cam in an obvious slot does the trick. Get some good pro in the thinner crack above before launching out of the break and up the wall above, using the crack and holds either side. Follow the crack/seam to the good belay ledge and a double bolt belay. P3.(12) From the belay go right along the ledge and climb the left side of the arete. Rings are below the pinnacle top, directly above the 2nd pitch belay.

Originally climbed from the top of the first pitch of 'Shadowfax' but best done as a long pitch using what was known as 'The Twist' as a direct start. Joins the Shiny Goblins belay. A great route with a lot of climbing and a couple of technical cruxes.

Originally done as a first pitch to 'Rebels and Outcasts', climbers now always join both in a long pitch and the two together are known as 'Rebels and Outcasts'

Used to be called 'Red Wall Super Direct' until being freed of its aid point. Is the best start to 'Shiny Goblins'.

One of the North Islands best 22's. Do it as one pitch with 'That summer'(need a 70m rope). Nearing the top of the cliff carry on up the corner (medium cams/large wires) for the original finish or step left (bolt) and climb the arête for a fully sport route.

Starts below and right of 'That Summer/Shiny Goblins'. Originally climbed as 2 pitches, the numerous old pitons were replaced by bolts in 2021 and now generally done in 1 long pitch. At the ledge below Shiny Goblins is a single bolt to protect the belayer. From here climb easily up the slab with a mixture of bolts and trad gear. Get into the groove above and protect the crux with good small gear. Continue up the groove until it blanks out where a move left onto a ledge shared with 'Shiny Goblins' can be made. Go staight up the short arete and to the belay rings on the right.

Branches off right halfway up 'Gambatagwa'

Couple metres obove where 'Gollum' branches off 'Gambatagwa' this climb branches off right.

Easy top rope climbing - ideal for beginners. 25m. One can wander at will over the wall, but the following four climbs are recognized as being the most popular.

A great multi-pitch training climb. On the far left of the Shield.

Left side of the Shield Slab

Shallow groove right of Route 1

Double bolt anchors Obvious bolted line

Climb up to small cave then move left and up. 10m right of the last climbs, could do with a clean.

Wall right of the cave route (route 3)

The rib directly behind 'The Shield' wall P1: Ascend the rib to the pine tree. P2: From the tree climb the rib right to bushier but easier ground. Descend the gully on the left. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

The steep wall over-looking the gully between the Shield and Prelude provides a most delightful moderate route, Find the single jug at the foot of the wall and follow good holds to the top, finishing near the top of Back of Beyond. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

The rib at the top of the gully between the Shield and Prelude. It is difficult to arrange a good belay at the top. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Heads up the red wall left of the arete of 'Prelude'.

From the bottom of 'Shade of things to come', follow the easy ledge out right to a shallow corner. Climb to the big ledge and gain the arete on the right. Climb the arete on good gear to the belay ledge. The second pitch needs to be cleaned...but if you are keen, from the belay climb to the large ledge above, to a groove out left and up this to the top of the buttress.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

P1: Climb the rib from the bottom, until a small belay ledge on the right is reached. P2: Step left and climb steep wall to good ledges (10m). Either abseil or continue up through bush to the track above. This description is old and needs updating.

A low-level traverse from Sentinel to the bridge. May need to be rediscovered, cleaned and graded. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Buttress may need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Buttress may need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

You can park your car at the carpark next to where the Waitewheta river joins into the Ohinemuri. This is just off Highway 2, 10km from Paeroa when you are driving towards Waihi. Either bushbash up the true left of the Ohinemuri for 1km until you see the cliff or walk along the road towards Waihi for a kilometer and climb down the side of the cycle-path tunnel (grade 10? ;D).

Start just below the rib on the left of the cliff. You will see a rusty piton right above you. Follow the line of least resistance which will lead you left into a small belay cave with a couple bolts. From there it is straight up to the top. Initially climbed as two pithes but cam be climbed as one without much rope drag.

Beta warning: Bring runners to sling large holes in the rock, other protection is sparse and mainly consists of wires. Rap down using the large pine at the top. Note this tree may no longer exist and have fallen down.

Pitch 1, 20m: As for the standard route to the cave. Pitch 2, 40m: Instead of leaving the cave on the left as for the standard route, exit right. Traverse into a shallow groove and climb this for 5m, Traverse right across a slabby bulge (tree runner), ascend the bulge and the short groove above. At the top of the groove pull out left onto good ledges. This should be the belay ledge for the standard route. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Small holds up to the large pine tree protected by hangerless bolts.

Spread around K Gorge are plenty of nice boulders. Landings vary; take plenty of pads.

A delightful steep slab. Take a few pads to even out the landing.

Follow the crimp seam to top out left

Directly up from the left pocket

Directly up from the right pocket

Left-hand side of the crystal face

Right-hand side of the crystal face

Head from the car park upstream on the true left toward the Black Wall until you reach the cutting. The rock may still be a bit friable.

Left to right traverse, staying very low. Avoids the ledgy rock on the RH side. A bit friable still.