Ascents in North America as trad

A rockies adventure. A large route with an alpine feel for sure. Pitch fields are logged below as we linked them (as recommended by Andy's original topo description). I didn't feel the climbing was that sustained with the crux sections being quite short. The rock quality is mostly poor with some absolutely terrible sections requiring thoughtful climbing and gear placement. Both 10d cruxes are on average rock however the protection is good (micro cams for the first 10d section and bolts for the second). I ripped a shoe-box sized piece of rock off on pitch 12 after climbing a 5.9 crack filled with so much dirt and vegetation I only got a single piece of gear in the only section that wasn't filled with crap which thankfully held solid (#3 camalot) otherwise it would have been the ride of a lifetime. Apart from that small incident I managed to onsight the route which I was happy with. We decided to walk off the ridge which took about 2hrs to return to the car making for a total of 13hrs car to car. All in all a fun day out however I wouldn't recommend this route. One and done for me.

Thanks for the adventure Dan!

freed in a day, on the second ground-up attempt

Used first two pitches of Broken Wing as a direct start ("Broken Pony"). Good climbing on mostly clean, compact rock. Found the 10b exit pitch a little contrived - it did offer a few tricky moves at the grade, though, that were well-protected.

NO idea how to get over the bulge. Had to bail at the third bolt.

looooong approach

Amazing Route. Really cool first 2 pitches. The crux was long hard and sustained. The rock quality after pitch 6 really goes down hill...

Led all the harder pitches. Good classic. Liked the 1st, 2nd and 5th pitches best. Stupid belay after p5. Why not continue another 15/20 m and climb the entire crack??? So, be smart and take 20 draws and finish the crack the way it should be done.

A grand day out in immaculate weather and with excellent company but the route itself doesn’t live up to the reputation. The first pitch is quite good, a burly warm up. Pitch two is fun but a one move wonder, I linked this into pitch three which was also fun. Pitch four was okay but not memorable, pitch five is excellent but massively over bolted and pitch six and seven have surprisingly hard climbing on ever decreasing rock quality which was uninspiring. I linked six and seven and massively ran out of quick draws which was exciting. We rapped off from here rather than face the choss above.

I really wasn’t a fan of how this route was equipped. The apparent ethic of bolt where it’s hard, not where’s it’s dangerous seemed dumb and felt really contrived, the best example of this being a fist jam from which you can clip three bolts. I still had an excellent time though and the climbing is good enough to still make it worthwhile, despite the bad equipping and the less than ideal rock quality.

FFA.

Cool sustained climbing. P2 was the crux for me. P5 crux was fine with my fist.

Despite paranoia that the wet rock police would come slash our tyres in the carpark, tony and i got up for sunrise brekky and tore into the park for the '1 to 3 hour' approach - 2:50 and we were booking it.. MP sandbaggers. We took tonys new tag line up apparently to tag a single jumper, but it came in handy on the way down when the estimated 72m rope turned out to be sub-70 and we had to beaner-block to get down. An approach first for both of us when tonys jacket loosely perched on top of his pack on the walkout got poached by a tree branch without him realizing till 15 min down the trail! It makes sense to ramble on about the approach cos it was half the day and featured some fun rock hopping in a beautiful canyon but being lyn hills favourite rock climb carries expectation and this route lived up to it. Absolute moves the whole way and the fang roof on p2 is insane. Im quite surprised and stoked to come away with the all onsight/clean despite 3 holds disintegrating on the final pitch and a bunch of other parts that could have gone either way. Spirits were high the whole day despite some backpacks being gnawed into by squirrels and a pack of HEB cookies was demolished dangerously quickly back at hotel contagion.

Lowered from Wherever I May Roam anchors to top-rope P2 only. Rotten rock made this a regrettable decision.

My very kind climbing partner gave me the money pitch. Used up #9, #10, and #11 hexes on that one! Belayed from one good bolt backed up by a #3 C4 cam far back to the right. Then continued up the last 1.5 pitches of Lost in Space.

Apart from the tunnel and the setting, the actual climbing wasn't that great, but with them it's a great little route! Stuck up there til after dark waiting for the bumblies to rap...

The climbing is average, but the position is fantastic. The 70m tunnel at the top is a laugh - didn't bring a head torch, rather sporty.

Classy position with a couple of pitches of decent climbing for the grade, and lots of traversing. Final pitch after the cave did not seem well-protected.