Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
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Lun 14 Oct. 2024 - Canmore | |||||||
Ha Ling Peak | |||||||
5.6 |
★★ Northeast Face
- avec
Ethan Heinrichs
1
50m
Simul climbed and linked into P2.
2
50m
Simul climbed and linked with P1.
3
5.4
35m
4
5.4
25m
5
5.5
25m
6
5.6
40m
Traverse.
7
5.4
25m
Partner linked P7 into P8 using a belay for right hand variation.
8
5.6
20m
"Roof Pitch". Partner Linked P7 into P8 using alternative belay stance.
9
5.6
45m
10
5.5
45m
11
5.5
45m
12
5.4
35m
| 440m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Lun 27 Mai 2024 - Tahquitz | |||||||
South Face Area Open Book Area | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Open Book - avec Jeff | 140m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
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Lun 27 Mai 2024 - Tahquitz | |||||||
The West Face Left Side | |||||||
5.9 |
★★ Dave's Deviation P1
- avec
Jeff
1
| 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Oof. Too much after climbing Open Book before. Feet hurting like hell and it was also really hot. I still feel insecure on steeper fingercracks and especially felt so today. Needed one hang above the tree, clean until there with the crux for me being getting fully established in the crack.
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Lun 27 Mai 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Red Tail Upper | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Assholes of August | 30m | |||||
Lun 27 Mai 2024 - Los Dinamos | |||||||
Cuarto Dinamo Kilowattito | |||||||
5.8 | Terciopelo púrpura | ||||||
5.9 | Alicia en el país de las maravillas | ||||||
5.10a | Otro ladrillo en la pared | 15m | |||||
Bonito diedro !!!
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Dim 26 Mai 2024 - Adirondacks | |||||||
The Barkeater Cliff | |||||||
5.6 | Yakapodu | 27m | |||||
5.7 Difficile | Fun City | 30m | |||||
Dim 26 Mai 2024 - Rocher du Capitaine | |||||||
Les voies | |||||||
5.7 | ★ La première danse - avec Benjamin Marengère, Orage42 | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ La Virée - avec Benjamin Marengère, Orage42 | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Petit Stuart - avec Benjamin Marengère, Orage42 | ||||||
5.5 | ★ Menhir’ai pas en Ukraine - avec Benjamin Marengère, Orage42 | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Clean, Climb and Rate | 15m, 2 | |||||
Dim 26 Mai 2024 - Montagne à Coton | |||||||
Secteur des toits | |||||||
5.9 | Puristes - avec Vincent, Samuel, Véronique | 25m | |||||
5.8 | La perdue - avec Vincent | 20m, 2 | |||||
Dim 26 Mai 2024 - Beaver Valley | |||||||
A.Q. O's Lair | |||||||
5.5 Facile | ★ Mr. Green With The Rope In The Study - avec Climb-Connors | ★ Bon | |||||
#4/4 for the day. Took small cams and nuts. Placed a red cam, then a nut, which blew when I asked Sean to take on it, breaking the rock. Climbed to the next ledge and placed another cam, then a nut, then finally a cam near the top. Honestly, this could be climbed as a free solo - it's a super easy climb (except that it's dirty AF and therefore not super safe).
Sean's first rap of the season, my first time leading trad in over a year (and having to set up a top belay off a tree, too). Definitely shook out some cobwebs. |
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Dim 26 Mai 2024 - Tahquitz | |||||||
The West Face Right Side | |||||||
5.8 |
★★★ Traitor Horn
- avec
Jeff
3
4
| 60m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Came into this route via Coffin Nail. Pulling the Horn was great, some crazy exposure there.
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5.7 ~5.8 | ★★ Coffin Nail - avec Jeff | 60m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.8 on Mountain Proj, which is surely more accurate. Great climbing on the second pitch. New BD gloves came in handy.
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Dim 26 Mai 2024 - Weir | |||||||
Mur de l'ouest 2ème étage | |||||||
5.7 Difficile | ★★ Aucun Idée | 27m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.8 | ★ Pop Corn | 27m | ★ Bon | ||||
Dim 26 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Climb and Punishment | 20m | |||||
5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | |||||
Sam 25 Mai 2024 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Keene Chapel Pond Slab | |||||||
5.5 PG | ★★ Regular Route | 240m | |||||
Sam 25 Mai 2024 - Eardley Escarpment | |||||||
Western Cwm North Wall | |||||||
5.5 | ★★ Route C - avec Katharina | 10m | ★ Bon | ||||
5.5 | ★★ Route C - avec Katharina | 10m | ★ Bon | ||||
Tricky climb in trail runners!
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5.4 | ★★ Route B - avec Katharina | 10m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
5.4 | ★★ Route B - avec Katharina | 10m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Forgot my climbing shoes so top-roped in trail runners, setting trad gear so Kat could "sport" lead it.
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Sam 25 Mai 2024 - Calixtlahuaca | |||||||
Franja Superior Los Búhos | |||||||
5.10a Difficile | ★ Pesadillas II | ★ Bon | |||||
Fui a limpiar la línea y darle con el Abraham. Al final descifré todos los pasos y las posibles protecciones. Falta ir a darle el pegue definitivo.
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Sam 25 Mai 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
Doctors Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Malpractice | 20m | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Malpractice | 20m | |||||
Sam 25 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Parking Lot Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Owl Teddy — 3 essais | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Definitely not the Dawn Wall — 2 essais | 10m | |||||
5.6 | ★ Kiss | 10m | |||||
5.10b | Planedemic | 10m, 3 | |||||
5.10b | Planedemic | 10m, 3 | |||||
5.8 | ★ Hug — 2 essais | 10m, 2 | |||||
Sam 25 Mai 2024 - Eagle's Nest | |||||||
Main Cliff | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Rob's Route | 31m | |||||
Pro looked good and the climb was outstanding.
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Ven 24 Mai 2024 - Shawangunks | |||||||
The Trapps The Uberfall | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Wrist - avec Kate Pechenkina | 70m | |||||
P1 mildly terrifying in the vertical crack. Lucky I still had a blue cam. P2 traverse was the hardest thing I've ever done OMG terrifying. Maybe did it wrong?
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5.7 | The Bridal Path - avec Kate Pechenkina | ||||||
Accidentally went left too early on Horseman. A bit scary and didn't extend enough, so much rope drag.
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5.5 | ★ No Picnic - avec Kate Pechenkina | 24m | |||||
Kate did mock lead and I checked placements
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5.5 | ★ No Picnic - avec Kate Pechenkina | 24m | |||||
Roof is a bit tricky
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Ven 24 Mai 2024 - Alice Roadside | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Fire Starter | 15m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Started on the right as for True Drew
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5.7 | ★★ True Drew | 15m | |||||
5.5 | ★ Piton-be-gone | 10m | |||||
First climb in Canada
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Ven 24 Mai 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Grant's Crack | 24m | |||||
Ven 24 Mai 2024 - Halton Region | |||||||
Mount Kelso Central Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Shimmy | 24m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Shimmy | 24m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
std rack to #2 plus a #4 or #5 to protect the wide crack itself. sling a chockstone. pink tricam useful at the top of the slab.
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5.7 | ★★ Dragline | 26m | ★ Bon | ||||
finally, geez
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5.7 | ★★ Dragline | 26m | ★ Bon | ||||
Jeu 23 Mai 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Keystone Corner | 24m | |||||
Rope was getting in the way
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5.10a X | ★ Copper Penny | 27m | |||||
Sick OW to #6 - definitely not X let alone R rated, not sure why it says that here?
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5.8 | ★★ Keystone Corner | 24m | |||||
Fuck wideboyz crack gloves, would be better off using banana peels strapped onto the back of your hands with duck tape
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Mer 22 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Spiderfly | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Something Short - avec Marcio Sartorelli | 8m | |||||
wet
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Mer 22 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Partners in Crime - avec Marcio Sartorelli | 25m | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century — 2 essais - avec Marcio Sartorelli | 15m | |||||
Mer 22 Mai 2024 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Swan Slab Gully | 98m | |||||
Post swim arvo lap
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Mer 22 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Parking Lot Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Baby Teddy | 12m | |||||
5.6 | ★ Definitely not the Dawn Wall | 10m | |||||
5.7 | ★ Miss Five | 10m | |||||
Mer 22 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
The Chief The North Walls The Sherriff's Badge | |||||||
5.10b |
★★★ Blazing Saddles
- avec
Chase, Pat
1
5.9
25
2
5.10b
25
| 50m | |||||
Linking both pitches is really rough at the top, came off pulling over the lip. I'd recommend doing it as 2 or just bring a lot of extenders and be relatively sparing with gear.
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Mar 21 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
The Chief The Apron Squamish Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Butt Light - avec Char | 190m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Mar 21 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
The Chief The Apron Above Broadway | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Boomstick Crack - avec Char | 60m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Favorite feature on the way to the top
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Mar 21 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
The Chief The Apron South Apron | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Slab Alley - avec Char | 290m | ★ Bon | ||||
Linkup Broomstick Crack --> Squamish Buttress
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Mar 21 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Cat Crack - avec Char | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
5.8 | ★ Sally Five Fingers - avec Char | 15m | ★ Bon | ||||
Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Skaha | |||||||
The Terraces | |||||||
5.8 | Kokanee Corner | 14m | |||||
5.11a | A Kiss Before Flying | 20m, 5 | |||||
5.9 | The Marxist Brothers | 14m | |||||
Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags Island in the Sky | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Unknown Climb 1 - avec Neha | 10m | ★ Bon | ||||
Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Lac Tucker | |||||||
5.5 |
★★ Birthday Bunduru (original route) P4
- avec
Daria
4
5.5
35m
| 35m | |||||
5.6 | ★★ P3 right variation | 30m | |||||
5.9 | ★★ P2 right variation | 22m | |||||
5.9 | ★★ P2 middle variation | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.9 |
★★ Birthday Bunduru (original route) P1
1
5.9
25
| 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Was dry. Climbed up to the third (rightmost) anchor.
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Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags Island in the Sky | |||||||
5.10c | Unknown Route 4 - avec Neha | 5m | |||||
5.6 | Unknown Route 1 - avec Neha | 8m | |||||
Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags The Zip | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Road - avec Neha | 10m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags The Boys of Porteau | |||||||
5.10c | Under Pressure - avec Neha | ||||||
Didn't know the route, so started on the crack rather than the face, which likely made it easier than 10c.
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Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Squamish | |||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags Island in the Sky | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Fissureman’s Friend - avec Neha | 25m | |||||
5.10b ~5.10a | ★★ Gang of Foreplay - avec Neha | 10m, 1 | |||||
Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Halton Region | |||||||
Mount Kelso Central Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Dragline | 26m | ★ Bon | ||||
Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Extension Ridge | |||||||
Prospect Crag | |||||||
5.9 | FA ★ Trash Panda | 12m | ★ Bon | ||||
Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Cascade Pass Pitchoff Chimney Cliff Roaches Terrace | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Roaches on the Wall | 30m | |||||
5.10c G | ★ Rock and Roll Star | 30m | |||||
Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Cascade Pass Pitchoff Chimney Cliff Above the Practice Wall | |||||||
5.8 |
★★★ The El
2
3
| 60m | |||||
5.6 | ★★ The Lonely | 18m | |||||
Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Adirondacks | |||||||
Keene Spider's Web | |||||||
5.10a G | ★★ On the Loose | 49m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Mr. Roger's Neighborhood | 43m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
5.10- | ★★ TR | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Esthesia | 27m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
5.10c G | ★★ Dacker Cracker | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Dim 19 Mai 2024 - Cragmont Park | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Undercling | 11m | |||||
5.6 | ★ Cragmont Crack | 11m | |||||
Dim 19 Mai 2024 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Tectonic Wall | |||||||
5.9 | Excellent, Slithers | 12m | |||||
Dim 19 Mai 2024 - Calabogie | |||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) North End | |||||||
5.3 | Traps | ||||||
5.4 | ★★ Hump an easy stroll | ||||||
Dim 19 Mai 2024 - Kingston Mills | |||||||
Main Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Three Finger Grunt | 12m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
I thought that was part of Synergy. Would make sense since there's no proper anchor on the ledge for Synergy (can't clean and lower off from just two bare bolts).
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P1: Engaging boulder start with almost no protection, crux just below the elephant ear (great feature). I found the start crux not the first few moves, but instead reaching the crack by establishing on the slab properly.
P2: 20m of continuous laybacking, initially with some good mini-ledges for rest, then nothing on the last ~12m. Also jammable if you like offwidths. I laybacked (guns > technique I guess)
P3: Interesting mix of grovel, chimney and unprotected slab moves. Rap anchor or contnue to the top. Moving onto the slab after chimneying is spicy on lead!