Node |
---|
Islamabad Capital Territory (ICT)
A series of great limestone crags with a continued potential for establishing new areas to climb in. |
Margallah Hills
A series of limestone crags overlooking the city of Islamabad. |
Margallah Hills |
Mastodon
Mastodon is the name of the cliff line that overlooks D-12. The two most obvious features are the central corner crack that is taken by Hana (6c+) and the prow that is taken by Retribution (7b+). WARNING: Locals make off with the first bolts of some easier routes in this area. Please make sure to check if the bolt is there or not before you climb so you can make a safety call. There are plenty of opportunities to add more lines on mastodon ( The wall stretches for quite a ways) and rock neighboring mastodon. There is an easy-ish hike to get to the top of the rock from the left most side. |
Margallah Hills Mastodon |
7a
★ Wicked Butterfly
The central line on the western face of Mastadon. |
7a+
★★ Sayonara
Climb up to the chains right before the overhang. Dedicated to Junya Matsuura. Thank you for everything. |
7c+
★★ Junya's Project Extension
The steep wall left of Hana (Flower). The project is still awaiting an FA. |
6a+
Sidestep
Start as for Hana (Flower) before traversing left to the midway chains on Junya's Project. |
6c+
★★ Hana
The central crack line. |
7b+
★★ Retribution on April 1.
The blunt prow immediately to the right of Hana. Shares lower off with Hana. |
6b+
Last Light
Takes the wall to the left of the gully that marks the right hand end of the main cliff. |
7b
Pending Name 2
Still awaiting a FA. Send it and name it. |
6c
★★ Psychological Hurdle
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
4c
★ Goat Poetry
Short climb with the hardest move just before the anchors. Great for learning lead climbing and the easiest route on the crag. |
7b
★★★ Golden Sun
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
7a
★★★ Elephant
One of the best 7a climbs you can find in Pakistan. Super interesting moves along great features, with the crux near a small runnout near the top that makes it super spicy. Just watch the rope going behind your feet and tell your belayer to give you a nice dynamic catch! |
6b
Señoreti
Newest route in the crag. Still super chossy so climb with caution. Belayer 100% has to wear a helmet. |
Margallah Hills |
Jungle Rock
One of the most popular cliffs in the Margallah Hills offering climbs up to 30 meters ranging in difficulty from 6a to 8a. Although the rock it self is mostly very solid, there is loose rock on ledges that is regularly knocked over. The belayer should wear a helmet and crowds should stay away from under the climber. There is very limited, if any, cellphone reception at this crag. |
Margallah Hills Jungle Rock |
6b+
★★ Dog's dinner
The first climb at the left hand end of the cliff. Follows the bolted line left of the stalactites. DBB and lower off. |
7a
★ Girls and other animals
Interesting and varied climbing. Follows the line of bolts to the right of the stalactites. Crux is the last move to the chains. DBB and lower off. |
7c
★★ Zabardast
Short and spicy. Challenging boulder problem as the crux 2/3 of the way up. |
7c
★ Deceived Bigly
Branches off to the right before rejoining the main route. Look for an obvious trail of bolts towards the right. |
6c+
★★ Wishful thinking
Climbs the short overhanging wall left of the pocketed cave. Technical moves to an awkward mantle at 2/3 height then monkey up the hanging vines to DBB and lower off. Originally a fairly scary proposition, an additional bolt was added in 2016 making it far more pleasant. |
7b+
★★ Moving in mysterious ways
Steep climbing out of the pocketed cave and up the overhanging wall to the chains on WT. Pumpy but with a couple of great rests. Shares the DBB and lower off with WT. Directly to the left of the boulder. |
7a+
★★ Moving monkey
Start as for MIMW and from the good rest at the third bolt continue up PM. NOTE: This isn't an offcial route and there is huge run out between the 3rd bolt of MIMW and PM's next bolt. Do this with caution until we can get another bolt in. |
6c
★★★ Puzzled Monkey
The best climb of its grade and a right of passage for all aspirant Margallah climbers. Starts to the right of the pocketed cave and follows the steep rib to the highest point of the crag. Sustained fingery climbing all the way to the top. DBB and lower off. 60m rope required (remember to put a knot in the end). |
8a
★★★ Out of action
Shares the first bolt with AD but branches to the left for a totally independent climb. Crux is immediately after the small cave and is immediately spicy. Amazing climbing till then as well. |
7b+
★★★ Action direction
One of the best routes of the grade in Islamabad. Shares the first bolt with OOA but then splits to follow its own line. |
6c+
★★★ Pig Party
This is the route with the obvious stalactite just at the beginning. Crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolts but climbing higher up will still keep you on your toes with fun movements. Possible to negate the crux by going further out left to make the grade 6c. |
7a
★★ Father's consent
One move wonder. |
6a
★★★ Inner Action
Probably the easiest grade on the crag and one of the longest single pitch route in the city. Follow the line near the obvious crack to get to a crux which ends with a fun and secure kneebar. |
6b
★★★ Junya's Roof.
Great route with a nice overhung section. Shares the first bolt with Motivation. |
6a+
★★ Motivation
The first route you'll pass by at jungle rock. Go straight up in order to maintain the grade. Possible to stay left to make the route easier but be careful for the swing. |
Margallah Hills |
Said Pur View
ATTENTION: The below excerpt is from the guide book released over a decade ago. This is one of the least frequented crags in Islamabad and as such, is completely overgrown. As of 1.10.2021~, there is no trail that goes directly to the crag. Rappeling is not advised as getting to the rapp point will take alot of painful bushwhacking. Best way to approach it from our experience is to follow the rock spine you will immediately see after about a 5 minute hike in. Then, you will have to search for the scramble down which is alot faster than rappeling downwards. Would caution the approach. Would also strongly advise against wearing shorts and sandels. Driving beyond Daman-e-Koh the road zigzags up the hill. At the third zig (sharp left bend) is a covered picnic building. Park here then take a very small path directly behind the building. The path soon rises and reaches more level ground. Shortly after, the path veers left through a small rocky gap. Follow it until it’s possible to head down rightwards for 100m or so, keeping right until just before a rounded rocky ridge. The end of the crag will then be seen 100m or so down to the left. Shortly before you get there either keep on the faint path to the crag top and abseil (30m), or scramble easily down from a sloping platform of sharp rock, past a large tree to the foot of the routes. 15 minutes walk. |
Margallah Hills Said Pur View |
7c+
★★★ The crack
Technical, fingery and very sustained. Direct up the arête is 8a |
8a
Feeling groovy
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
6c+
Sidewinder
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
5c
Snakes in the grass
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
6a+
Slip sliding away
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
6a+
Trekking in the dark
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
Margallah Hills |
Jasmin Corner
A very accessible, convenient crag for beginners. Routes are short, easy and solid. Will be in shade during much of the day except in summer. |
Margallah Hills Jasmin Corner |
4b
I
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
4b
II
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
4b
III
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
6a
Jasmine View
Far right corner of the crag with a hollow base. Short bouldery route with an overhanging crux at the beginning. Nice solid holds but the rock here is dangerously sharp so be careful. |
Margallah Hills |
Music Lounge
A perfect summer crag. Completely shaded for most of the day. |
Margallah Hills Music Lounge |
6c
★★ Finger Killer
Good footwork and technique needed at the top. The anchor consists of 1 glue in rap ring so its better to use the anchor of the Direttissima to clean (its a foot on the left. ) Shares the first bolt with Direttissima. |
6b
★★ Direttissima
Super spicy bouldery move at the headwall. Harder for climbers with a shorter ape index potentially. Shares the last bolt and anchor with Fringe benefits |
6b+
★ Fringe benefits
Bouldery start followed by balancey slabby climbing. Shares the anchor and last bolt with Direttissima. |
6a+
★ You Can Do It
Shares bolts and anchors with Benissima. Bolts are really far from the intended line for most of the climb so be careful for a huge swing in case of a lead fall. Top rope only recommended. |
5b
★ Benissima
This line mostly follows the line on the right of the bolts. Be careful for the moving rock under the anchor. It moves. |
Margallah Hills |
Beetle's Nest
CAUTION: When attempting the multipitch, make sure your gear and supplies are properly secured. Monkeys are known to take food and smaller pieces of gear. |
Margallah Hills Beetle's Nest |
6c+
★★★ Teamwork
Islamabad's only sport multipitch. Wonderful climb with an easy approach. Very exposed to the sun so early morning start or evening climb is recommended unless you don't mind baking.
Descent beta: From the top anchors, it is possible to rappel to the bottom of pitch 3 with a 70m rope and then straight down to the ground. With a 60m rope, you'll have to go anchor to anchor. Expect very steep scrambling on the ground. Remember to tie your stopper knots. |
5b
★ Hang Loose
Probably the most popular route in Islamabad. Locals primarily use this route for speed climbing competitions and intro classes for new climbers in Margalla Hills. |
5b
★★ Brotherhood
Directly left of Hang Loose. Previously Top Rope only, bolted recently by Sajid Aslam . Might be the most fun lead climb at this crag now. Follow the bolts straight up. Loose chossy rock on the left |
6a
Goat Club
Off about 3-4 meters to the right of Hang Loose. The route is a bit shorter but has some slight overhanging sections requiring more strength than the older routes on the crag. Don't stray right, that's a separate 4c route. |
4c
Sikandar's Corner
Next to the 6a, Right on the right side corner of the front face of the crag. Short route. Top has a slightly reachy overhang but holds are big and juggy. Be wary of loose holds on this one. |
5b
★★★ Saxony Ramp
ATTENTION: Bolts for this line were removed well over a decade ago. The anchor and 1 bolt before the anchor is still present. Awaiting a rebolt. Do not bolt too close to the ground as locals make off with easier to get to bolts. |
Margallah Hills |
Belvedere
Nice winter crag with some intermediate climbing on short routes. |
Margallah Hills Belvedere |
6b+
★ Bushman
Trail gets reclaimed by thorny bushes all summer and has to be cleared when winter comes back. |
6b
★ Lizard
Trail gets reclaimed by thorny bushes all summer and has to be cleared when winter comes back. |
6a+
★★ Get up, Stand Up
Start with balancy moves and sketchy footholds, up to the tufa with big jugs. Once you stand up on it and get onto the slanted ledge, the rest is pretty easy. Just don't fall down because the runout to the anchor is massive. |
6a
★ For the girls
Start directly under the first bolt with a powerful pull on a great crimp but bad feet or further from the right with many holds but difficult and risky clipping. Climb into the crack next to the tree roots and make your way up the right of the boulder looking for good crimps. Final half is a scramble before you have to climb the over hanging boulder. Be mindful of the massive runout here and clip into the bolt on the overhang quickly. Holds are mostly solid but be wary of loose rocks. |
4c
Monkey tower
Trail gets reclaimed by thorny bushes all summer and has to be cleared when winter comes back. |
5c+
Bon plaisir
Trail gets reclaimed by thorny bushes all summer and has to be cleared when winter comes back. |
6a+
★★ New Enemies
Shares the start with NF but branches of to the left at the big ledge into a Dihedral. |
5c
★★ New Friends
Great climbing on solid rock. A must do. |
Margallah Hills |
God Rock
This radically overhanging face gets no sun at all, making it a fine choice in summer. It also stays dry in the rain. |
Margallah Hills God Rock |
6c
★ Blame Me
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
7b
★ Guilty as charged
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
6b+
★★★ Blame God
Excellent climbing up the overhanging corner. DBB and lower off. |
Margallah Hills |
Legacy East
Two great routes with the crux at the first 2-3 bolts. Otherwise, very easy and relaxing climbing. |
Margallah Hills Legacy East |
6c
★★ Family pressures
Start is a little chossy but fun bouldery moves. Gets easier as you get past the overhanging section in the beginning. Strongly recommend stick clipping since crux is at start. |
6b
Cemented Marriage
Crux is at the start. Fully recommend stick clipping. There is a runnout after you get past the first 3-4 bolts so keep climbing confidently straight up. |
Margallah Hills |
Legacy Wall
Easy Access and a good selection of well protected climbs ranging in difficulty from 6a to 8a. |
Margallah Hills Legacy Wall |
7c
Breaking Bad
A steep line through the broken rock on the left side of Legacy Wall. |
7c+
★★ Men holding hands
The steep wall just left of Osama. Joins Osama briefly at third bolt before stepping back left to an independent finish. DBB and lower off. Awaiting a direct ascent. |
7a+
★★★ Osama bin climbing
Climbs the blunt rib and steep layback crack immediately left of the bivy cave. A powerful start is followed by steep face climbing. A Margallah Hills classic. DBB and lower off. |
7b
★★★ Reluctant fundamentalist
Shares the first two bolts with Osama Bin Climbing. |
????
Unknown route bolted in between Reluctant fundamentalist and God shaped hole. This might be a 6c or maybe 7a. Looks like it shares bolts with RF higher up and finishes on the anchors of Leg over. |
7a+
★★★ God shaped hole
Short and sharp. Start towards the back left of the cave and follow the line of bolts through the tuffas to join Legacy. The second bolt was added in 2016 which has made it considerably less daunting. |
6a+
★★★ Legacy
Start from the top of the large boulder at the right hand edge of the cave. Traverse left past a small fig tree to gain the Legacy ledge. Straight up from the lefthand end of the ledge on good holds before traversing back right to gain the top groove. The last moves are the crux. DBB and lower off. The direct start to Legacy is 6c+. |
6a
★★ Legacy - leg over finish
The easiest route up the wall. From the Legacy ledge continue up the wall on good holds trending left to DBB and lower off. |
6b+
★★★ Legacy - leg up finish
A slightly harder variant. From the Legacy ledge continue up the wall on good holds and where these finish continue straight up on sharp pockets and crimps. DBB and lower off. |
6c+
★★ Progressive thinking
An excellent direct line up the Legacy face. Climb the direct start to Legacy to gain the fig tree then straight up the Legacy face on small crimps finishing up the Legacy groove. Around 6b/b+ if you start on the boulder. |
7a
★★★ Cat fight
Fingery and sustained. Climbs the blunt rib between PT and KBJ. Shares DBB and lower off with KBJ. |
6c
★★★ Kidnapped by Jesus
Steep gymnastic climbing on large holds. The wall at the far right hand end of the crag. Shares DBB and lower off with CF. |
Margallah Hills |
Hidden Rock
Living up to the name, this is Margalla Hills second most secluded crag. With 4 routes present and potential for maybe some more, its worth the visit. WARNING: Soil is very loose in the area and due to the extreme lack of traffic, vegetation overtakes this area and approach very quickly. Please contact a local climber through here or social media to make sure the trail is clear. Also, please make plans to exit this crag by 5 in the summer and earlier in the winter months. The area gets very dark w/ a potential to get lost. Wild animals are also active in these remote parts. |
Margallah Hills Hidden Rock |
6c
★★ Puzzled Fahad
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
6b+
Hero of the Day
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
6a
★★ Jane's Cry For More
Make your way to the obvious crack and follow it up. Take caution getting the first clip. |
6b
★★★ Tarzan's cry of joy
Directly on the right of JCFM. Great climbing on clean rock. |
Margallah Hills |
Well Hidden Rock |
Margallah Hills Well Hidden Rock |
6c
The Dark Side
Sport climbing and lower to clean. Please report any damaged fixed gear here! |
5a
★★★ The Cultural Divide
Protectable throughout with good wires. Start in the corner and step left at 4m. The crux is wriggling past the large jammed block at 12m. |
7a+
★★ The Optimist
Clip the first 2 bolts on The Dark Side, then follow and cross the Divide. Crux moves lead 3m horizontally right from the large foothold, then climb back up left almost (but not quite!) into the Divide before trending right again |
8a
★★★ Islamagood
One of Margalla’s best. The crux is low down but the top is still feisty. At half height swing left to share one move with The Optimist before teetering back right and up. |
Shahdra
Easy to reach, in a scenic valley with a nice stream. |
Shahdra |
6a
1
Rightmost route on the north face. |
5c
2
Second route from the right on the north face. |
5b
★ 3
Third route from the right on the north face. |