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Routes in Arrow Buttress

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Showing all 34 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
19 El Matador
1 15 20m
2 17 15m
3 19 20m

FA: W. Koen & Tony Lourens, 11 Oct 2015

Trad 55m, 3
16 Bullshoot
1 14 25m
2 15 15m
3 16 20m

This is the furtherest route to the left of the Arrow buttress. Really good crux pitch and very nice second pitch.

  1. Smear up a small ramp and up the left corner. Step up and climb weirdly a small corner to the left and up all the way to the bottom of a crack that bends to the left. Belay at the bottom of the crack.

  2. Climb the crack and traverse left to a small ledge.

  3. From the ledge, climb up and traverse diagonally right through a foot rail. Climb up to a roof and traverse right around the exposed corner and up to the bottom of a long beautiful recess. Climb the recess until reach a horizontal crack to your left. Traverse all the way to the left using the horizontal crack to build a stance.

The decent is obviously to your left (if you face the top of the mountain).

FA: A. Killick & G. Moseley

FA: A. Killick & G. Moseley, 1969

Trad 60m, 3
20 Bullseye
1 12 15m
2 19 12m
3 20 20m
4 18 15m
5 20 12m

FA: D.Tromp, K.Tromp, Tony Dick & Chris Lomax, 1977

Trad 74m, 5
14 Gauntlet

FA: G. Athiros, P. Attenborough, B. Fouche, A. Cronin & S. Cronin, 1965

Trad 100m, 3
15 Sagittarius
Trad
14 Foxglove
1 13 20m
2 12 15m
3 14 27m

FA: M. Scott, D. Tromp & D. Tromp, 1979

Trad 62m, 3
17 Foxglove Variation
Trad 75m
21 Handy Fox
1 15
2 21

FA: Richard Halsey & R. Strate, Jun 2020

Trad 2
15 Hand in Glove
1 14 12m
2 15 15m
3 14 15m
4 14 15m

FA: M. Scott, P. de Tolly & D. Tromp, 1984

Trad 57m, 4
16 Custer's Last Stand
1 13 15m
2 16 20m

FA: Van der Spuy-Brink, J. wilson & J. Wilson, 1975

Trad 35m, 2
17 Maid Marion
1 14 25m
2 16 10m
3 17 15m
4 14 20m

With good rope management the second and third pitch can be linked in a very fun single pitch. These are the two best pitches of this route! It starts around 4 meters to the left of the start of Friar Tuck or around 14 meters left of the big chimney that makes the start of Robin Hood.

  1. Climb all the way up to a roof to the left of a bulging rock that marks the start of the second pitch.

  2. Climb around the bulging rock (exposed) and up a bottomless recess to a ledge to the left.

  3. Climb diagonally up to a roof and take the easiest option through the V shape roof. Pull up and climb the recess to a ledge.

  4. Step right around the corner and climb the strenous layback.

FA: P. de Tolly, M. Sci & M. Scott, 1993

Trad 70m, 4
16 Friar Tuck
1 12 20m
2 16 30m
3 14 20m

The route starts around 10 meters left of the big groove/chimney that marks the start of Robin Hood route.

  1. Climb up, slightly diagonally to the right to reach a big ledge. Make an anchor just above the chimney from Robin Hood first pitch.

  2. Climb awkwardly up on holds and jams towards a yellow groove that can be seen from the belay station. Climb the yellow groove until reach a small roof and step right using a good hand jam. Step up and climb all the way up an easy corner to belay just by the left of two big blocks.

  3. Step up the big blocks and pull up to a small recess and traverse right and then up to a big ledge.

The descent is just walking to the left of the buttress (assuming you are looking to the top of the mountain).

FA: M. Scott & R. Elam, 1994

Trad 70m, 3
16 Robin Hood
1 10 20m
2 14 8m
3 16 24m

FA: N. Angelos & G. Gravett, 1976

Trad 52m, 3
25/26 The Quiver
1 17 15m
2 25/26 30m
3 17 15m

FA: Richard Halsey & M. Penso, Feb 2018

Trad 60m, 3
22 I Shot the Sheriff
1 20 15m
2 20 20m
3 22 20m

FA: T. Versfeld, C. Standing, R. Suter & Hilton Davies, 29 Oct 2017

Trad 55m, 3
23 Capital Offence
1 17 20m
2 19 20m
3 23 20m

FA: T. Versfeld, C. Standing, R. Suter & Hilton Davies, 4 Nov 2017

Trad 60m, 3
23 Shot to the Heart
1 22 17m
2 23 30m

Scramble up about 30m to an obvious ledge that cuts across most of the face (or climb the first pitch of William Tell to gain the ledge). Follow the ledge out right until you see a cairn marking the start of the route. The route starts up an undercut and overhanging face with many sidepulls and good edges. A pumpy start.

  1. Step up and gain the face using sidepulls. Continue straight up, passing a thin rail and up to a higher rail beneath a roof. Rail out left for about 5m until able to pull up onto the face above. Either face climb or use a crack just to your right to gain a hanging stance beneath a roof and bulging black streak.

  2. From the stance, move right and climb up using a large block and juggy break to a rail beneath a roof and the bulging black streak. Follow the thin vertical seam bordering the right hand side of the black streak (crux). Easier climbing leads to the top.

FA: L. Rust & T. Versfeld, 2001

Trad 47m, 2
25 Archer's Paradox
1 15 20m
2 24 20m
3 25 15m
4 15 15m

FA: Richard Halsey & C. Standing, Feb 2018

Trad 70m, 4
16 William Tell
1 16 26m
2 10 8m
3 14 15m
4 15 20m
5 13 18m
6 15 25m

FA: E. February, A. Goldberg, A. McKirdy, P. de Tolly, D. Tromp & A. D. Tromp

FA: E. February, A. Goldberg, A. McKirdy, P. de Tolly, D. Tromp, A. D. Tromp & A. D. Tromp, 1976

Trad 110m, 6
11 Arrow Face
Trad 90m
18 Bowstring
1 12 25m
2 12 22m
3 14 22m
4 18 28m

FA: J. Levy & M. Scott, 1968

Trad 97m, 4
13 Crossbow
Trad 70m
27 A Sudden Loss of Cabin Pressure
1 27 12m
2 23 15m
3 12 20m
4 24 20m

FA: M. Seuring & D. Steyn, 2012

Trad 67m, 4
28/29 Direct Pressure

The direct start to A Sudden Loss of Cabin Pressure.

FA: phlip olivier, 2013

Trad
23 Moonlight Direct
1 17 30m
2 22 10m
3 23 30m
4 22 20m

FA: Hilton Davies & B. Daniel, 2010

Trad 90m, 4
22 Manoeuvres by Moonlight
1 19 15m
2 20 25m
3 22 30m
4 19 30m

The route starts from the right hand side of the long cave feature on the buttress. You have to scramble up to reach the start of the first pitch.

  1. The start is undercut. Reach up for a good blocky hold, then throw to another hold up and right. Step left and up to an undercling. Move to the rail above and go hard right until able to pull onto a ledge. Traverse right into a corner. Step up to gain a rail, move right onto the face (crux of Fader's Frontal). Climb the face until able to step left into a niche. Stance.

  2. Rail hard left, at one point stepping down to a lower rail. After stepping down, continue railing left until able to pull up to a long block wedged on the face. Continue moving left and pull up onto a small ledge. Stance.

  3. Move up and left until you reach a corner crack. Climb the crack for a few meters before stepping off to the left. Continue moving left and up, aiming for the black roof split by a crack. Pull up into the crack (crux). Once above the roof, follow the wide rail left and past some blocks until you reach a good ledge with a layback crack in the corner. Stance.

  4. Climb the layback crack to the roof. Rail right until able to pull up to another wider rail. Follow this back left and pull up into a corner. Climb the corner, moving out right under the roof and climb the face to an abseil point (tat). Either belay here or scramble up to a higher ledge and stance.

FA: G. Robbins & J. Wright, 1984

Trad 100m, 4
23 Manoeuvres by Sunlight
1 19 15m
2 20 25m
3 22 30m
4 23 15m
5 20

Pitches 1-3 as for Manoeuvres by Moonlight.

FA: G. Paterson-Jones & A. Davies, 13 Oct 2016

Trad 85m, 5
23 Moonage Daydream
Trad 70m
16 Fader's Frontal
1 14 12m
2 16 15m
3 16 20m
4 16 30m

FA: M. Scott, A. McKirdy & A. Wood, 1979

Trad 77m, 4
12 Fraser's Arrow
1 11 22m
2 12 23m
3 12 23m

FA: J.W Fraser & K. White, 1917

Trad 68m, 3
20 Left Hall
1 16 20m
2 17 40m
3 20 35m

FA: S. Larsen & A. Hall, 2005

Trad 95m, 3
13 Second Helping
1 12 22m
2 13 12m
3 12 10m
4 11 15m
5 13 20m

FA: A. McKirdy & M. Scott

Trad 79m, 5
12 Sparkplug
1 12 10m
2 11 16m
3 11 8m
4 12 16m
5 12 9m
6 12 8m

FA: D. McLachlan (solo), 1974

Trad 67m, 6
Dashboard
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Showing all 34 routes.

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