Showing all 72 nodes.
Node |
---|
L'Escala - Montgó
Right of L'escala, you will find this peninsula with a nice couple dws crags and one sector for sport climbing. All climbing is on the east-facing limestone cliffs rising above the water. |
Montgó nord
The DWS sector of Montgó area most known and easiest to access, with a bunch of routes between 6-16m that range from f4 to f6c+ |
Montgó nord |
Main wall
Main DWS sector at L'escala montgó, with two nice 6m walls with jugs and crimps and some higher lines up to 14m in height as well as some fun traverses. |
Montgó nord Main wall |
5
★★ Waverider
Traverse the wall left to right until it increases considerably in height, or move slightly further until the ledge on the right. Follow the middle of the wall. Traversing the lower part of the wall is Waverider low |
6a+
★★ Waverider low
Traverse the lower, overhanging part of the wall until Slopestyle |
6b
★★ Wipeout
Start as Waverider low but continue all the way across the high wall around the corner, until you cannot go any further. Stay low in the corner to use the starting jug of choppy. Nice rests along the way |
6a
★★ Low pro
Climb the small prow on its most overhanging point, skipping the good holds on the right (nn1) |
5 ★ nn 1 |
5 ★ nn 2 |
5 ★ nn 3 |
5 ★★ nn 4 |
5
Spic en span
Start at the back of the small cave and move up on the right inside of the cave |
6a nn 6 |
6a
★ Sixty minutes
Climb the line left of the roof |
6b ★★ Clockwork orange |
6a
★ Happy paddler
Start under the roof and move left, avoiding the hard rockover, then move slightly right above the roof |
6b
★★ SUP Picnic
Climb right over the bulge using holds on the smoother section of rock |
nn 10 |
nn 12 |
6a ★★ Bocadillo |
6b
★★ Choppy
Start hanging from the obvious jug sticking out 3m above the water and move slightly left and up parallel to the orange rock feature, climbing right to go into the hard part of the overhang. |
5 Out of the shade |
6a+
★★ Chopoir
Start from the water and move to the big hanging jug and up to the ledge past the smooth rock. |
6b+
Chop chop
Link chopoir to choppy in one go (i.e. no sitting to rest) |
Montgó nord |
Second wall
6m wall with some nice lower climbs. Route grades to be determined but wall is more crimpy and smoother than the low part of the main wall. As it is in a tiny cove it is less climbable when there are high waves or swell |
Montgó nord Second wall |
nn 1 |
nn 2 |
nn 3 |
nn 4 |
★ nn 5 |
★ nn 6 |
Trencabraços area
The area most easterly exposed on the peninsula. Some of the best and hardest DWS Montgó has to offer. A big ledge 2m above the water provides access to the cave and trencito wall. |
Trencabraços area |
Trencabraços cave
Amazing massive cave with very steep overhanging routes on the right and some high and sustained lines on the left. Much potential! |
Trencabraços area Trencabraços cave |
6b
★★ Short Nights
Fantastic exposed climb starting near the arete and over the overhanging bulge up to an easier top out |
6c
Stockholm Sundream
Move right from the arete onto the face. Really good quality holds, slightly overhanging face climb. Holds were a little slimey but still good quality. Don't use the arete. |
Rave machine
Start from the water on the left of the hanging prow and move slightly right and up and join with pump machine. |
7a
★★ Pump Machine
Start from the water to a sharp hold and move up and left or alternatively come in from the lower right, and then move along the edge and up to end in the cave. Amazing overhanging route, very pumpy |
5
Clang
Climb the easy wall left of the prow to get into the top cave |
6b+
November Warmth
Take the easiest way out of the water and then a quality and pumpy traverse into the cave and beyond. |
6b
★ Who Needs Bolts
Nice climb towards the bolted sport route to as high as you dare. |
Trencabraços area |
Trencita wall
The small overhang on the left of the ledge next to the trencabraços cave, with some nice juggy climbs to warm up for the harder and steeper routes in the big cave |
Trencabraços area Trencita wall |
6a
Kumquat
Start in the back of the cave, climb the sharp rocks sticking out onto the overhang, and climb out via the lip |
6a Hjalmar |
6a Hugo |
5
Tangerine
Start on the bottom right of the cave, and climb the tiny bulge left and up |
Sector nou |
Sector nou |
6b+ 1 |
6c 2 |
6b+ 3 |
6a+ ★★ 4 |
6a+ ★ 5 |
6a+ 6 |
6a 7 |
6a+ ★ 8 |
6b ★★ 9 |
6a 10 |
5
Kabuki
Start just right of the orange section left in the cove where the water is deep enough and climb straight up. Finish by topping out onto the ledge |
nn2
Up and slightly left to top out on the right side of the ledge on the middle of the wall |
Montgó south
Vertical limestone sea cliff ranging from 6m to 18m. Cliff littered with (big) holds and tend to be positive after the first 2-3m. Generally very easy climbing with some routes a slightly harder start but almost all leading to ~f3 "ladder" climbing above. Some fun high and easy traverse potential but lookout for sections with very shallow water/ledges. It is also a great place for cliff jumping, ranging from 3-18m. |
Montgó south |
4
mullar-te!
The left-most possible route of the wall |
4
dividi
Follow the fissure with legs left and right |
4
on the edge
Climb the arete left of the overhang. Slightly right is more appealing but beware the shallow water underneath! |
4
ulls tancat
Left most route up the block |
4
going home
Climb the middle of the block or any route 3m left or right of it, it will all be the same height and grade |
5b
★★ the prow
Start on the back of the small overhanging prow, climb to its tip and move up |
5a
la mig
Climb the easier route between the prow (left) and la ment buida (right) |
6a
La ment esquerra
Climb slightly left of la ment buida |
6a+
★★ la ment buida
Ascent the smooth rock right from the prow. First 2.5m is the crux, above that is easy climbing to the top |
4
first exposure
Climb the wall anywhere right of the crack |
5
Plato
Middle section of the wall, slightly harder then the right arete |
4
★★ Un plat de forats
Climb the right arete |
5
★★ el volet
Climb the clear prow sticking out of the water but stop at the ledge next to the start of the overhang (unfortunately this top 8m section should be avoided due to unsafe rock!) |
Showing all 72 nodes.