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Nodes in L'Escala - Montgó

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Node
L'Escala - Montgó

Right of L'escala, you will find this peninsula with a nice couple dws crags and one sector for sport climbing. All climbing is on the east-facing limestone cliffs rising above the water.

Montgó nord

The DWS sector of Montgó area most known and easiest to access, with a bunch of routes between 6-16m that range from f4 to f6c+

Montgó nord
Main wall

Main DWS sector at L'escala montgó, with two nice 6m walls with jugs and crimps and some higher lines up to 14m in height as well as some fun traverses.

Montgó nord Main wall
5 Waverider

Traverse the wall left to right until it increases considerably in height, or move slightly further until the ledge on the right. Follow the middle of the wall. Traversing the lower part of the wall is Waverider low

6a+ Waverider low

Traverse the lower, overhanging part of the wall until Slopestyle

6b Wipeout

Start as Waverider low but continue all the way across the high wall around the corner, until you cannot go any further. Stay low in the corner to use the starting jug of choppy. Nice rests along the way

6a Low pro

Climb the small prow on its most overhanging point, skipping the good holds on the right (nn1)

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5 Spic en span

Start at the back of the small cave and move up on the right inside of the cave

6a nn 6
6a Sixty minutes

Climb the line left of the roof

6b Clockwork orange
6a Happy paddler

Start under the roof and move left, avoiding the hard rockover, then move slightly right above the roof

6b SUP Picnic

Climb right over the bulge using holds on the smoother section of rock

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6a Bocadillo
6b Choppy

Start hanging from the obvious jug sticking out 3m above the water and move slightly left and up parallel to the orange rock feature, climbing right to go into the hard part of the overhang.

5 Out of the shade
6a+ Chopoir

Start from the water and move to the big hanging jug and up to the ledge past the smooth rock.

6b+ Chop chop

Link chopoir to choppy in one go (i.e. no sitting to rest)

Montgó nord
Second wall

6m wall with some nice lower climbs. Route grades to be determined but wall is more crimpy and smoother than the low part of the main wall. As it is in a tiny cove it is less climbable when there are high waves or swell

Montgó nord Second wall
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Trencabraços area

The area most easterly exposed on the peninsula. Some of the best and hardest DWS Montgó has to offer. A big ledge 2m above the water provides access to the cave and trencito wall.

Trencabraços area
Trencabraços cave

Amazing massive cave with very steep overhanging routes on the right and some high and sustained lines on the left. Much potential!

Trencabraços area Trencabraços cave
6b Short Nights

Fantastic exposed climb starting near the arete and over the overhanging bulge up to an easier top out

6c Stockholm Sundream

Move right from the arete onto the face. Really good quality holds, slightly overhanging face climb. Holds were a little slimey but still good quality. Don't use the arete.

Rave machine

Start from the water on the left of the hanging prow and move slightly right and up and join with pump machine.

7a Pump Machine

Start from the water to a sharp hold and move up and left or alternatively come in from the lower right, and then move along the edge and up to end in the cave. Amazing overhanging route, very pumpy

5 Clang

Climb the easy wall left of the prow to get into the top cave

6b+ November Warmth

Take the easiest way out of the water and then a quality and pumpy traverse into the cave and beyond.

6b Who Needs Bolts

Nice climb towards the bolted sport route to as high as you dare.

Trencabraços area
Trencita wall

The small overhang on the left of the ledge next to the trencabraços cave, with some nice juggy climbs to warm up for the harder and steeper routes in the big cave

Trencabraços area Trencita wall
6a Kumquat

Start in the back of the cave, climb the sharp rocks sticking out onto the overhang, and climb out via the lip

6a Hjalmar
6a Hugo
5 Tangerine

Start on the bottom right of the cave, and climb the tiny bulge left and up

Sector nou
Sector nou
6b+ 1
6c 2
6b+ 3
6a+ 4
6a+ 5
6a+ 6
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6a+ 8
6b 9
6a 10
5 Kabuki

Start just right of the orange section left in the cove where the water is deep enough and climb straight up. Finish by topping out onto the ledge

nn2

Up and slightly left to top out on the right side of the ledge on the middle of the wall

Montgó south

Vertical limestone sea cliff ranging from 6m to 18m. Cliff littered with (big) holds and tend to be positive after the first 2-3m. Generally very easy climbing with some routes a slightly harder start but almost all leading to ~f3 "ladder" climbing above. Some fun high and easy traverse potential but lookout for sections with very shallow water/ledges. It is also a great place for cliff jumping, ranging from 3-18m.

Montgó south
4 mullar-te!

The left-most possible route of the wall

4 dividi

Follow the fissure with legs left and right

4 on the edge

Climb the arete left of the overhang. Slightly right is more appealing but beware the shallow water underneath!

4 ulls tancat

Left most route up the block

4 going home

Climb the middle of the block or any route 3m left or right of it, it will all be the same height and grade

5b the prow

Start on the back of the small overhanging prow, climb to its tip and move up

5a la mig

Climb the easier route between the prow (left) and la ment buida (right)

6a La ment esquerra

Climb slightly left of la ment buida

6a+ la ment buida

Ascent the smooth rock right from the prow. First 2.5m is the crux, above that is easy climbing to the top

4 first exposure

Climb the wall anywhere right of the crack

5 Plato

Middle section of the wall, slightly harder then the right arete

4 Un plat de forats

Climb the right arete

5 el volet

Climb the clear prow sticking out of the water but stop at the ledge next to the start of the overhang (unfortunately this top 8m section should be avoided due to unsafe rock!)

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