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Route | Grade | Popularity | Style | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2 | ★ Tarzan
Tree climb, old access to 'Humanality'. | 5 | 30m | Unlink route | ||
3 | ★★★ Eviction
All titanium bolts (P1: 12 bolts, P2: 7 bolts). | 8a | 52m, 2, 19 | Unlink route | ||
4 | Eviction (Variation)
Splits to the left about halfway up P1. All titanium bolts (P1: 9 bolts, P2: 7 bolts). | 7c+ | 56m, 2, 16 | Unlink route | ||
5 | Bird's Nest Drop
Access by the first pitch of 'Humanality'. Then left of P2. Not rebolted with titanium, old stainless steel glue-in bolts. | 7c | 20m, 6 | Unlink route | ||
6 | ★★★ Humanality
Could be 5, 6 or 7 piches, depending how you see the climb. 1. Start up the ladder, left of 'Cowabungalow'. Climb up behind a stalactite and traverse left to the anchor on the ledge. 1 titanium bolt, 4 slings. 2. Straight up the stalactite and right to the anchor on the cave of the next ledge. 4 titanium bolts. 3. Traverse outwards to the right. Straight up on the face. Anchor to the left on a small ledge above the 'Bird's Nest Drop' anchor. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings. 4. Straight up into the tufas to a big belay ledge. 7 titanium bolts, 2 slings. 5. Up and right under the big stalactite formation. 6 titanium bolts, 5 slings. 6. Up the wall to the right of a big structure. 3 titanium bolts, 4 slings. 7. Old pitch that traverses left on threads. Dangerous and never climbed. Three raps with a 60m rope on separate abseil anchors from the top of pitch 5. If you have a 70m rope, you can rap straight from the top of pitch 6 to the next set of anchors. | 6b+ | 110m, 7, 45 | Unlink route |
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Route | Grade | Popularity | Style | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
8 | Open Project
Unfinished project on the short wall below P1 of 'Humanality'. About 8a or higher. Now behind the small shack right of the Freedom Bar. | Unlink route | ||||
9 | Planet Ton Sai
On the short wall below P1 of 'Humanality', now covered by the small shack right of the Freedom Bar. | 7c | 4 | Unlink route | ||
10 | ★★ I No Speak England
Starts at the platform of the Freedom Bar. Crux is right at the start. 5 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 6 slings. | 6b | 25m, 11 | Unlink route | ||
11 | ★★ Cowabungalow
The leftmost line on the terrace right of 'Humanality'. All titanium bolts. | 6b | 25m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
12 | ★ Super Liam
Shares the start with 'Cowabungalow', then right towards the small cave. Be careful with loose rock in the upper part. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings. | 6c+ | 28m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
13 | ★★ Sweating Mekong
Short crux about halfway. All titanium bolts. | 7a | 20m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
14 | ★★ Viking in Heat
Head up the ladder then straight up the wall, which gets increasingly overhanging. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. | 6c | 20m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
15 | ★★ Ya Rup Rup
Squeezed just right of 'Viking in Heat'. In Wee's update. All titanium bolts. | 7b | 22m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
16 | ★★ Hin Rong Hai
Do not skip the crux by going right towards the anchor -- only 6b then and risk of breaking the fragile tufas. All titanium bolts. | 6c | 22m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
18 | ★★ Big Guy Loosing the Cat
The leftmost line on the upper terrace. Shares anchors with 'Silkcat'. 3 titanium bolts, 2 slings. | 7a | 11m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
19 | ★ Silkcat
Shares the first two clips with 'Tom Yum' and anchors with 'Big Guy Loosing the Cat'. 2 titanium bolts, 2 slings. | 7a | 11m, 4 | Unlink route | ||
20 | ★★ Tom Yum
Big moves on big holds. Getting polished, but still worth climbing. Shares the first two clips with 'Silkcat', then up right. 3 titanium bolts, 1 sling. | 7a | 10m, 4 | Unlink route | ||
21 | ★ Trade Winds
5 titanium bolts, 1 sling. | 7a+ | 11m, 6 | Unlink route | ||
22 | ★★ Dry Net
All titanium bolts. | 7a+ | 15m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
23 | ★★ On the Terrace
Starts on the very right edge of the upper terrace. Start is a little hard to read. 5 titanium bolts, 4 slings. | 6b+ | 20m, 11 | Unlink route | ||
25 | ★ For You & For Me
Crawling through the corner on the very left side of the roof. Careful, anchors not equipped with rings. Do not lower through the slings! 1 titanium bolts, 6 slings. | 6b | 8m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
26 | ★★ Riesenbaby
Stiff start up to the cauliflower, then traverses right on the rails. Nice moves, though very polished. All titanium bolts. | 7a+ | 10m, 4 | Unlink route | ||
27 | ★★ Spanish Wreck
Shares anchors with 'Dragon Ball' and 'Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup'. All titanium bolts. | 7c+ | 15m, 6 | Unlink route | ||
28 | ★★ Dragon Ball
Very Dynamic climbing. Good fun! Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup'. All titanium bolts. | 8b+ | 15m, 6 | Unlink route | ||
29 | ★★ Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup
Original grade 8a. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite. Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Dragon Ball'. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. | 8a+ | 15m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
30 | ★★ Hang Ten
Original grade 7c. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite in 2006. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Tidal Wave. | 8a | 9m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
31 | ★★★ Tidal Wave
Very popular and very polished, short and powerful with a tendency to spit you off with sloppy beta. Make sure your belayer is paying attention otherwise you could end up with a mouth full of sand. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Hang Ten. | 7c | 10m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
32 | ★★ Baby Gorilla
Original grade 7b+. Upgraded due to a broken hold. Titanium bolts. | 7c | 7m, 3 | Unlink route | ||
35 | ★★★ Tantrum
The Tonsai beach classic! Get on it. All titanium bolts. | 8a+ | 12m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
37 | ★★ Café Andaman
Climbs straight up the obvious tufa, then traverses left. Finishes in the small cave next to the anchor. Top section can seep after rain. Titanium bolts. | 7b | 10m, 4 | Unlink route | ||
39 | ★★★ Ton Sai Playboy
Very popular, easy start to pumpy roof climbing. Just keep moving all the way to the anchors! Very fun! Take the left line after the fourth bolt, or you end up in 'Playboy Connection'. Titanium bolts and slings. Holds broke recently making it a bit harder. | 7b | 15m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
43 | ★★ Love for Travelling
Very nice line that, for some reason, gets much less attention than the popular and always busy 'Lal Bab' or 'Babes in Thailand', although it is just as good. A bit of an awkward stemming start to get onto the thick stalactite. Some nice 3D climbing towards the small roof, which is actually easier than it looks once you've sorted out the beta. All titanium bolts. | 7a+ | 13m, 8 | Unlink route | ||
41 | ★★ Mafia Connection
Starts just left of 'Love for Travelling', finishes on the anchor just right of 'Ton Sai Playboy'. Tricky start, pumpy finish. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling. | 7c+ | 13m, 6 | Unlink route |
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Route | Grade | Popularity | Style | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
25 | ★ For You & For Me
Crawling through the corner on the very left side of the roof. Careful, anchors not equipped with rings. Do not lower through the slings! 1 titanium bolts, 6 slings. | 6b | 8m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
26 | ★★ Riesenbaby
Stiff start up to the cauliflower, then traverses right on the rails. Nice moves, though very polished. All titanium bolts. | 7a+ | 10m, 4 | Unlink route | ||
27 | ★★ Spanish Wreck
Shares anchors with 'Dragon Ball' and 'Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup'. All titanium bolts. | 7c+ | 15m, 6 | Unlink route | ||
28 | ★★ Dragon Ball
Very Dynamic climbing. Good fun! Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup'. All titanium bolts. | 8b+ | 15m, 6 | Unlink route | ||
29 | ★★ Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup
Original grade 8a. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite. Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Dragon Ball'. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. | 8a+ | 15m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
30 | ★★ Hang Ten
Original grade 7c. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite in 2006. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Tidal Wave. | 8a | 9m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
31 | ★★★ Tidal Wave
Very popular and very polished, short and powerful with a tendency to spit you off with sloppy beta. Make sure your belayer is paying attention otherwise you could end up with a mouth full of sand. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Hang Ten. | 7c | 10m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
32 | ★★ Baby Gorilla
Original grade 7b+. Upgraded due to a broken hold. Titanium bolts. | 7c | 7m, 3 | Unlink route | ||
33 | Sunrise West Way
Old route just right of 'Baby Gorilla'. Never climbed. Old stainless steel glue-in bolts. | 15m, 10 | Unlink route | |||
34 | Angle Couple
Old route just left of 'Tantrum'. Never climbed. Old stainless steel glue-in bolts. | 15m, 10 | Unlink route | |||
35 | ★★★ Tantrum
The Tonsai beach classic! Get on it. All titanium bolts. | 8a+ | 12m, 7 | Unlink route |
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Route | Grade | Popularity | Style | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
35 | ★★★ Tantrum
The Tonsai beach classic! Get on it. All titanium bolts. | 8a+ | 12m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
36 | World Peace
Old route just left of 'Cafe Andaman'. Never climbed. Old stainless steel glue-in bolts. | 15m, 10 | Unlink route | |||
37 | ★★ Café Andaman
Climbs straight up the obvious tufa, then traverses left. Finishes in the small cave next to the anchor. Top section can seep after rain. Titanium bolts. | 7b | 10m, 4 | Unlink route | ||
37 | ★★ Café Andaman
Climbs straight up the obvious tufa, then traverses left. Finishes in the small cave next to the anchor. Top section can seep after rain. Titanium bolts. | 7b | 10m, 4 | Unlink route | ||
38 | ★★ Ton Sai Love Story
Old route, sharing the start with 'Ton Sai Playboy', but going up into the left roof after the 3rd clip. Rusty expansion bolts, anchors seem to have been removed. Cannot be climbed anymore. | 7b | 15m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
39 | ★★★ Ton Sai Playboy
Very popular, easy start to pumpy roof climbing. Just keep moving all the way to the anchors! Very fun! Take the left line after the fourth bolt, or you end up in 'Playboy Connection'. Titanium bolts and slings. Holds broke recently making it a bit harder. | 7b | 15m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
40 | ★★★ Playboy Connection
Linkup. Start at 'Ton Sai Playboy' and continue right after 4th bolt to join 'Mafia Connection'. Often confused with 'Tonsai Playboy' as this route is missing in most guidebooks. All titanium bolts. | 7c | 15m, 6 | Unlink route | ||
41 | ★★ Mafia Connection
Starts just left of 'Love for Travelling', finishes on the anchor just right of 'Ton Sai Playboy'. Tricky start, pumpy finish. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling. | 7c+ | 13m, 6 | Unlink route | ||
42 | ★★★ Mafia Connection (Variation)
Finish variation after the early crux. Veers right after the 3rd bolt and joins 'Love for Travelling' just below the small roof. All titanium bolts. | 7c+ | 13m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
43 | ★★ Love for Travelling
Very nice line that, for some reason, gets much less attention than the popular and always busy 'Lal Bab' or 'Babes in Thailand', although it is just as good. A bit of an awkward stemming start to get onto the thick stalactite. Some nice 3D climbing towards the small roof, which is actually easier than it looks once you've sorted out the beta. All titanium bolts. | 7a+ | 13m, 8 | Unlink route | ||
44 | ★★★ Just Dusit
Shares the first bolt with 'Germans in Tights', then left. All titanium bolts. | 7c | 12m, 6 | Unlink route |
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Route | Grade | Popularity | Style | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
44 | ★★★ Just Dusit
Shares the first bolt with 'Germans in Tights', then left. All titanium bolts. | 7c | 12m, 6 | Unlink route | ||
45 | ★★ Germans in Tights
Shares the first bolt with 'Just Dusit', then right. All titanium bolts. | 7b | 12m, 6 | Unlink route | ||
46 | ★★ Second Home Ton Sai
Another great line that is often overlooked and sees by far not as much traffic as many of the "classics" in the roof. Boulder out the start and then fight the pump to the anchors. All titanium bolts. | 7a+ | 13m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
47 | ★★ [Closed] Beauty and the Beast
The route has been closed and the crux bolts removed (see comments). The original description is preserved for posterity: *Awesome route !!! A little bit psycho when you must fall on the tufa. Seems to be 6c for people under 1.70m, for the other 6a+. But, you should do this route!!!* | 6c | 15m | Unlink route | ||
48 | ★★ Stalagasaurus
Original grade 6a+. Upgraded after breakage of a huge stalactite in 2004. Good climbing other than the broken section, which wrecks thew flow. Still fun and still worth it. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. | 6c+ | 13m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
49 | ★★ Babes in Thailand
Popular climb on pinches and jugs. All titanium bolts. | 7a | 12m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
50 | ★★★ Sex Power
All titanium bolts. | 8a | 13m, 6 | Unlink route | ||
51 | ★★ Lal Bab
Early crux, followed by big powerful moves on jugs in the first half, then much easier and less steep to the top. All titanium bolts. | 7a+ | 14m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
52 | ★★ Elephant
4 titanium bolts, 1 sling. | 8a | 13m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
54 | ★★ Cream of Tom Yum Kai
Too much fun for one climb. All titanium bolts. | 8a+ | 13m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
55 | ★★★ Ant Jump
All titanium bolts. | 8b | 13m, 5 | Unlink route |
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Route | Grade | Popularity | Style | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
54 | ★★ Cream of Tom Yum Kai
Too much fun for one climb. All titanium bolts. | 8a+ | 13m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
55 | ★★★ Ant Jump
All titanium bolts. | 8b | 13m, 5 | Unlink route | ||
56 | ★★ Voodoo Doll
All titanium bolts. | 7c+ | 15m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
58 | ★★★ Phet Maak
A real classic of the area. Originally graded 8a and still is if you go direct, nowadays most people head out right to the large tufa midway essentially avoiding the crux. All titanium bolts. | 7c+ | 15m, 7 | Unlink route | ||
59 | ★★ Cara Cangreso
All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Czech Open. | 8b | 15m, 9 | Unlink route | ||
60 | Czech Open
Start variation to the right of 'Cara Cangreso' and share anchor. Joins on the headwall. All titanium bolts. | 8b+ | 15m, 9 | Unlink route | ||
61 | ★★★ Gaeng Som Pla
Another Tonsai beach classic! Starts on the crack right of 'Czech Open'. All titanium bolts. | 7c+ | 15m, 8 | Unlink route | ||
63 | Hannes, the Beast
Starts 5m right of 'Gaeng Som Pla', straight through the steep grey roof into the structured rock below the anchor. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling. | 8a+ | 15m, 6 | Unlink route |
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Route | Grade | Popularity | Style | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
64 | ★★ Speak no Evil
Traverse following the crack and the ledge on the roof. All titanium bolts. | 7c | 15m, 6 | Unlink route | ||
65 | Kun Suk Khoo
Traverses left along the upper crack in the roof, right and above 'Speak no Evil'. All titanium bolts. | 8b+ | 18m, 8 | Unlink route | ||
66 | ★★ First Blood
The furthest line to right behind the bushes. Traverses left along the edge of the roof. All titanium bolts. | 7b | 15m, 7 | Unlink route |
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