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Ton Sai Wall & Roof Topos

Topo #2736463518

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Route Grade Popularity Style
2 Tarzan

Tree climb, old access to 'Humanality'.

5 Sport 30m Unlink route
3 Eviction

All titanium bolts (P1: 12 bolts, P2: 7 bolts).

8a Sport 52m, 2, 19 Unlink route
4 Eviction (Variation)

Splits to the left about halfway up P1. All titanium bolts (P1: 9 bolts, P2: 7 bolts).

7c+ Sport 56m, 2, 16 Unlink route
5 Bird's Nest Drop

Access by the first pitch of 'Humanality'. Then left of P2. Not rebolted with titanium, old stainless steel glue-in bolts.

7c Sport 20m, 6 Unlink route
6 Humanality

Could be 5, 6 or 7 piches, depending how you see the climb. 1. Start up the ladder, left of 'Cowabungalow'. Climb up behind a stalactite and traverse left to the anchor on the ledge. 1 titanium bolt, 4 slings. 2. Straight up the stalactite and right to the anchor on the cave of the next ledge. 4 titanium bolts. 3. Traverse outwards to the right. Straight up on the face. Anchor to the left on a small ledge above the 'Bird's Nest Drop' anchor. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings. 4. Straight up into the tufas to a big belay ledge. 7 titanium bolts, 2 slings. 5. Up and right under the big stalactite formation. 6 titanium bolts, 5 slings. 6. Up the wall to the right of a big structure. 3 titanium bolts, 4 slings. 7. Old pitch that traverses left on threads. Dangerous and never climbed. Three raps with a 60m rope on separate abseil anchors from the top of pitch 5. If you have a 70m rope, you can rap straight from the top of pitch 6 to the next set of anchors.

6b+ Sport 110m, 7, 45 Unlink route

Topo #167649522

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Route Grade Popularity Style
8 Open Project

Unfinished project on the short wall below P1 of 'Humanality'. About 8a or higher. Now behind the small shack right of the Freedom Bar.

SportProject Unlink route
9 Planet Ton Sai

On the short wall below P1 of 'Humanality', now covered by the small shack right of the Freedom Bar.

7c Sport 4 Unlink route
10 I No Speak England

Starts at the platform of the Freedom Bar. Crux is right at the start. 5 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 6 slings.

6b Sport 25m, 11 Unlink route
11 Cowabungalow

The leftmost line on the terrace right of 'Humanality'. All titanium bolts.

6b Sport 25m, 7 Unlink route
12 Super Liam

Shares the start with 'Cowabungalow', then right towards the small cave. Be careful with loose rock in the upper part. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

6c+ Sport 28m, 7 Unlink route
13 Sweating Mekong

Short crux about halfway. All titanium bolts.

7a Sport 20m, 7 Unlink route
14 Viking in Heat

Head up the ladder then straight up the wall, which gets increasingly overhanging. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

6c Sport 20m, 7 Unlink route
15 Ya Rup Rup

Squeezed just right of 'Viking in Heat'. In Wee's update. All titanium bolts.

7b Sport 22m, 7 Unlink route
16 Hin Rong Hai

Do not skip the crux by going right towards the anchor -- only 6b then and risk of breaking the fragile tufas. All titanium bolts.

6c Sport 22m, 7 Unlink route
18 Big Guy Loosing the Cat

The leftmost line on the upper terrace. Shares anchors with 'Silkcat'. 3 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

7a Sport 11m, 5 Unlink route
19 Silkcat

Shares the first two clips with 'Tom Yum' and anchors with 'Big Guy Loosing the Cat'. 2 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

7a Sport 11m, 4 Unlink route
20 Tom Yum

Big moves on big holds. Getting polished, but still worth climbing. Shares the first two clips with 'Silkcat', then up right. 3 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

7a Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
21 Trade Winds

5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

7a+ Sport 11m, 6 Unlink route
22 Dry Net

All titanium bolts.

7a+ Sport 15m, 5 Unlink route
23 On the Terrace

Starts on the very right edge of the upper terrace. Start is a little hard to read. 5 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

6b+ Sport 20m, 11 Unlink route
25 For You & For Me

Crawling through the corner on the very left side of the roof. Careful, anchors not equipped with rings. Do not lower through the slings! 1 titanium bolts, 6 slings.

6b Sport 8m, 7 Unlink route
26 Riesenbaby

Stiff start up to the cauliflower, then traverses right on the rails. Nice moves, though very polished. All titanium bolts.

7a+ Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
27 Spanish Wreck

Shares anchors with 'Dragon Ball' and 'Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup'. All titanium bolts.

7c+ Sport 15m, 6 Unlink route
28 Dragon Ball

Very Dynamic climbing. Good fun! Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup'. All titanium bolts.

8b+ Sport 15m, 6 Unlink route
29 Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup

Original grade 8a. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite. Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Dragon Ball'. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

8a+ Sport 15m, 7 Unlink route
30 Hang Ten

Original grade 7c. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite in 2006. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Tidal Wave.

8a Sport 9m, 5 Unlink route
31 Tidal Wave

Very popular and very polished, short and powerful with a tendency to spit you off with sloppy beta. Make sure your belayer is paying attention otherwise you could end up with a mouth full of sand. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Hang Ten.

7c Sport 10m, 5 Unlink route
32 Baby Gorilla

Original grade 7b+. Upgraded due to a broken hold. Titanium bolts.

7c Sport 7m, 3 Unlink route
35 Tantrum

The Tonsai beach classic! Get on it. All titanium bolts.

8a+ Sport 12m, 7 Unlink route
37 Café Andaman

Climbs straight up the obvious tufa, then traverses left. Finishes in the small cave next to the anchor. Top section can seep after rain. Titanium bolts.

7b Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
39 Ton Sai Playboy

Very popular, easy start to pumpy roof climbing. Just keep moving all the way to the anchors! Very fun! Take the left line after the fourth bolt, or you end up in 'Playboy Connection'. Titanium bolts and slings. Holds broke recently making it a bit harder.

7b Sport 15m, 7 Unlink route
43 Love for Travelling

Very nice line that, for some reason, gets much less attention than the popular and always busy 'Lal Bab' or 'Babes in Thailand', although it is just as good. A bit of an awkward stemming start to get onto the thick stalactite. Some nice 3D climbing towards the small roof, which is actually easier than it looks once you've sorted out the beta. All titanium bolts.

7a+ Sport 13m, 8 Unlink route
41 Mafia Connection

Starts just left of 'Love for Travelling', finishes on the anchor just right of 'Ton Sai Playboy'. Tricky start, pumpy finish. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

7c+ Sport 13m, 6 Unlink route

Topo #3103801209 Roof Left Side

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Route Grade Popularity Style
25 For You & For Me

Crawling through the corner on the very left side of the roof. Careful, anchors not equipped with rings. Do not lower through the slings! 1 titanium bolts, 6 slings.

6b Sport 8m, 7 Unlink route
26 Riesenbaby

Stiff start up to the cauliflower, then traverses right on the rails. Nice moves, though very polished. All titanium bolts.

7a+ Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
27 Spanish Wreck

Shares anchors with 'Dragon Ball' and 'Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup'. All titanium bolts.

7c+ Sport 15m, 6 Unlink route
28 Dragon Ball

Very Dynamic climbing. Good fun! Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup'. All titanium bolts.

8b+ Sport 15m, 6 Unlink route
29 Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup

Original grade 8a. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite. Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Dragon Ball'. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

8a+ Sport 15m, 7 Unlink route
30 Hang Ten

Original grade 7c. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite in 2006. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Tidal Wave.

8a Sport 9m, 5 Unlink route
31 Tidal Wave

Very popular and very polished, short and powerful with a tendency to spit you off with sloppy beta. Make sure your belayer is paying attention otherwise you could end up with a mouth full of sand. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Hang Ten.

7c Sport 10m, 5 Unlink route
32 Baby Gorilla

Original grade 7b+. Upgraded due to a broken hold. Titanium bolts.

7c Sport 7m, 3 Unlink route
33 Sunrise West Way

Old route just right of 'Baby Gorilla'. Never climbed. Old stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Sport 15m, 10 Unlink route
34 Angle Couple

Old route just left of 'Tantrum'. Never climbed. Old stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Sport 15m, 10 Unlink route
35 Tantrum

The Tonsai beach classic! Get on it. All titanium bolts.

8a+ Sport 12m, 7 Unlink route

Topo #3103955277 Roof Center Right

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Route Grade Popularity Style
35 Tantrum

The Tonsai beach classic! Get on it. All titanium bolts.

8a+ Sport 12m, 7 Unlink route
36 World Peace

Old route just left of 'Cafe Andaman'. Never climbed. Old stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Sport 15m, 10 Unlink route
37 Café Andaman

Climbs straight up the obvious tufa, then traverses left. Finishes in the small cave next to the anchor. Top section can seep after rain. Titanium bolts.

7b Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
37 Café Andaman

Climbs straight up the obvious tufa, then traverses left. Finishes in the small cave next to the anchor. Top section can seep after rain. Titanium bolts.

7b Sport 10m, 4 Unlink route
38 Ton Sai Love Story

Old route, sharing the start with 'Ton Sai Playboy', but going up into the left roof after the 3rd clip. Rusty expansion bolts, anchors seem to have been removed. Cannot be climbed anymore.

7b Sport 15m, 7 Unlink route
39 Ton Sai Playboy

Very popular, easy start to pumpy roof climbing. Just keep moving all the way to the anchors! Very fun! Take the left line after the fourth bolt, or you end up in 'Playboy Connection'. Titanium bolts and slings. Holds broke recently making it a bit harder.

7b Sport 15m, 7 Unlink route
40 Playboy Connection

Linkup. Start at 'Ton Sai Playboy' and continue right after 4th bolt to join 'Mafia Connection'. Often confused with 'Tonsai Playboy' as this route is missing in most guidebooks. All titanium bolts.

7c Sport 15m, 6 Unlink route
41 Mafia Connection

Starts just left of 'Love for Travelling', finishes on the anchor just right of 'Ton Sai Playboy'. Tricky start, pumpy finish. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

7c+ Sport 13m, 6 Unlink route
42 Mafia Connection (Variation)

Finish variation after the early crux. Veers right after the 3rd bolt and joins 'Love for Travelling' just below the small roof. All titanium bolts.

7c+ Sport 13m, 7 Unlink route
43 Love for Travelling

Very nice line that, for some reason, gets much less attention than the popular and always busy 'Lal Bab' or 'Babes in Thailand', although it is just as good. A bit of an awkward stemming start to get onto the thick stalactite. Some nice 3D climbing towards the small roof, which is actually easier than it looks once you've sorted out the beta. All titanium bolts.

7a+ Sport 13m, 8 Unlink route
44 Just Dusit

Shares the first bolt with 'Germans in Tights', then left. All titanium bolts.

7c Sport 12m, 6 Unlink route

Topo #3104171892 Roof Center Right

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Route Grade Popularity Style
44 Just Dusit

Shares the first bolt with 'Germans in Tights', then left. All titanium bolts.

7c Sport 12m, 6 Unlink route
45 Germans in Tights

Shares the first bolt with 'Just Dusit', then right. All titanium bolts.

7b Sport 12m, 6 Unlink route
46 Second Home Ton Sai

Another great line that is often overlooked and sees by far not as much traffic as many of the "classics" in the roof. Boulder out the start and then fight the pump to the anchors. All titanium bolts.

7a+ Sport 13m, 7 Unlink route
47 [Closed] Beauty and the Beast

The route has been closed and the crux bolts removed (see comments). The original description is preserved for posterity: *Awesome route !!! A little bit psycho when you must fall on the tufa. Seems to be 6c for people under 1.70m, for the other 6a+. But, you should do this route!!!*

6c Sport 15m Unlink route
48 Stalagasaurus

Original grade 6a+. Upgraded after breakage of a huge stalactite in 2004. Good climbing other than the broken section, which wrecks thew flow. Still fun and still worth it. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

6c+ Sport 13m, 7 Unlink route
49 Babes in Thailand

Popular climb on pinches and jugs. All titanium bolts.

7a Sport 12m, 5 Unlink route
50 Sex Power

All titanium bolts.

8a Sport 13m, 6 Unlink route
51 Lal Bab

Early crux, followed by big powerful moves on jugs in the first half, then much easier and less steep to the top. All titanium bolts.

7a+ Sport 14m, 5 Unlink route
52 Elephant

4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

8a Sport 13m, 5 Unlink route
54 Cream of Tom Yum Kai

Too much fun for one climb. All titanium bolts.

8a+ Sport 13m, 5 Unlink route
55 Ant Jump

All titanium bolts.

8b Sport 13m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #3104180085 Roof Right Side

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Route Grade Popularity Style
54 Cream of Tom Yum Kai

Too much fun for one climb. All titanium bolts.

8a+ Sport 13m, 5 Unlink route
55 Ant Jump

All titanium bolts.

8b Sport 13m, 5 Unlink route
56 Voodoo Doll

All titanium bolts.

7c+ Sport 15m, 7 Unlink route
58 Phet Maak

A real classic of the area. Originally graded 8a and still is if you go direct, nowadays most people head out right to the large tufa midway essentially avoiding the crux. All titanium bolts.

7c+ Sport 15m, 7 Unlink route
59 Cara Cangreso

All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Czech Open.

8b Sport 15m, 9 Unlink route
60 Czech Open

Start variation to the right of 'Cara Cangreso' and share anchor. Joins on the headwall. All titanium bolts.

8b+ Sport 15m, 9 Unlink route
61 Gaeng Som Pla

Another Tonsai beach classic! Starts on the crack right of 'Czech Open'. All titanium bolts.

7c+ Sport 15m, 8 Unlink route
63 Hannes, the Beast

Starts 5m right of 'Gaeng Som Pla', straight through the steep grey roof into the structured rock below the anchor. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

8a+ Sport 15m, 6 Unlink route

Topo #3102591396 Far Right Side

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Route Grade Popularity Style
64 Speak no Evil

Traverse following the crack and the ledge on the roof. All titanium bolts.

7c Sport 15m, 6 Unlink route
65 Kun Suk Khoo

Traverses left along the upper crack in the roof, right and above 'Speak no Evil'. All titanium bolts.

8b+ Sport 18m, 8 Unlink route
66 First Blood

The furthest line to right behind the bushes. Traverses left along the edge of the roof. All titanium bolts.

7b Sport 15m, 7 Unlink route

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