Ascents in Millstone Edge

I had to fail on something. Hard and tricky finger crack that tested all my skills, sadly failing from the last and hardest move and falling onto a 000 C3 cam which held but will never be the same. First pitch only.

Cool moves getting to the cave, hard and powerful.

Leave technique at home on this burly, strenuous, steep wide-ish crack. Great gear, but some loose rock. Quite painful jamming, but I've paid my blood debt to the rock gods on this climb.

very thin. Pro after the crux so you are better off soloing rather than leading

ace. Had a pad- not much use from the crux.

Painfull on the fingernails, wear stiff boots for those tiny edges.

Way painful. The upper 2/3 was good due to footers, the bottom crack before you move left mashed my poor fingers. Meant to be classic, but too painful for me.

Well I was never going to send, but im glad i touched the holds. Bloody painful ice skating, beautiful line

Had a play. Start is hard. Top moves tough too.

Very hard start. Very hard finish. Just hard. Love it though. Fell from the last crack moves. I’ll be back..,

Many Attempts over two or three days. Very happy that I climbed this Route in my life.

Wow, world class route, fun experience, need to improve at finger cracks if I wanna come back and get this done.

A beautiful exercise in balance

I didn't like this that much, 3 very reachy bits in between an easy ramp. Made a bit of a cairn to get not he route.

Flash placing gear. Very pure finger crack climbing (I must've spent 20min stuck on the last hard crack move) to a stance, then time to get your BOLD on. Traversing miles away from your last bit of gear and then committing to the hardest move of the route is gripping. Stoked with this one, felt mentally demanding, and keeping it together for the technical finale is tough.

The line we most worried about climbing. Wicked finger crack slab that was finger locking fun to a tricky move before the crack fused up and your faced with a 5 m traverse and run out to the top. Brilliant...

Circa 1990

Eh, I wanted to go for the version direct to the tree, but chickened out, the version mentioned in the BMC guide to finish towards embankment 3 felt a bit more secure, so there I went. I'd not take E3 for this version as it was a cop-out.

I had some beta from Ian but was still gripped AF...tough crack and tricky moves on the runout part

The classic of the area and more intimidating then difficult. The route of the day. Long finger locking fun. What's next??