East Bay Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. East Bay 160 routes in Region

14 13 1 2 3 4 6 5 7 15 8 9 10 11 12

1 Unnamed Crag Near Keller Beach 2 Bridges Rock Gym 3 Great Stone Face Rock Park 4 Indian & Mortar Rocks 5 Remillard Park 6 Cragmont Park 7 Grizzly Peak Boulders 8 Berkeley Ironworks 9 Golden Gate Wall 10 Lake Temescal Park 11 Great Western Power Company 12 Bladium Rock Wall 13 Rocktopia 14 Diablo Rock Gym 15 Mount Diablo

Summary:

J

F

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A

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Seasonality

Bouldering, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 37.835522, -122.039193

access issues

For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

inherited from San Francisco Bay Area

1.1. Unnamed Crag Near Keller Beach 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.920005, -122.385975

summary

A newly documented crag in need of development. It's next to a beach and hills with hiking trails.

description

A small Crag located on the Miller Knox Regional Shoreline; Great view of the Bay.

access issues

The area is closed from 10 pm to 5 am.

approach

The crag can be approached from Keller Beach or Ferry Point Loop Trail.

1.2. Bridges Rock Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

This is a low-key, laid-back bouldering gym. They do a great job updating climbs and posting it on Facebook. It has additional perks for non-climbing activities (slacklining, yoga, pilates, zumba, kickboxing, acupuncture, and many more).

approach

10 minute walk from El Cerrito Plaza BART and Immediately off the Central Ave exit

history

A few of the slacklining celebrities have trained at Bridges!

1.3. Great Stone Face Rock Park 0 routes in Cliff

1.4. Indian & Mortar Rocks 64 routes in Area

2 1

1 Indian Rock 2 Mortar Rock

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.892625, -122.272581

description

Two classic Bay Area outdoor bouldering areas, located right beside each other.

approach

Park near the intersection of Indian Rock Ave and San Mateo Rd in Berkeley, then a leisurely 30 second stroll will have you on the rock.

history

This rock has been climbed on since the 1930s - there's still evidence of old bolts and piton scars visible here and there. From the 1960s onward this was one of the more important training spots in the West Coast, before gyms came along - pretty much anyone who's anybody from that period spent time honing their technique here.

1.4.1. Indian Rock 43 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.892254, -122.272758

description

A historic crag in California climbing, and still the best bouldering in the East Bay.

1.4.2. Mortar Rock 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.893257, -122.272360

description

The most concentrated area of hard bouldering in the Bay Area.

1.5. Remillard Park 19 routes in Cliff

2 1

1 Main Formation 2 North Formation

Summary:

Top roping, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 37.891875, -122.261008

1.5.1. Main Formation 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Top roping, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 37.891526, -122.260896

description

The main formation in the park. Three separate fixed anchors on top, above 'Bucket Prow' (a long way back from the edge), the plaque face, and the 'Pinnacle Crack' face.

approach

Step out of your car. You're there!

descent notes

The best top access is on the left side of the formation.

1.5.2. North Formation 3 routes in Feature

Summary:

All Top roping

Lat / Long: 37.891991, -122.260873

description

A fun steep wall that's a bit marred by sharp rock and some large loose flakes. 2 good bolts on top for top-roping.

approach

Walk north along the path from the 'Main Formation', and as you round the jumbled northern side you'll see a small overgrown pinnacle to the left. Carefully solo to the top (some loose rock) to set a top-rope.

1.6. Cragmont Park 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Top roping, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 37.892095, -122.263739

description

Another popular little Berkeley cliff tucked away in suburbia. Is popular with guides and can be overrun on the weekends.

approach

Park on Regal Rd, then wander down the path on the left side of the park. To set top ropes, head through the flat grassy area on top, hop the stone wall then carefully navigate the cliff top.

1.7. Grizzly Peak Boulders 5 routes in Field

Summary:

Bouldering and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 37.882252, -122.242036

1.8. Berkeley Ironworks 0 routes in Gym

description

One of the two oldest still-operating gyms in the Bay Area, and the spiritual heir of the first gym.

1.9. Golden Gate Wall 1 route in Artificial

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.849796, -122.239821

summary

Sustained traversing on a wall made of cemented slabs of rock.

description

Before gyms this was probably a pretty good place to work up a pump. It's still worth a visit if you're bored and in the area.

approach

Park on Golden Gate Ave opposite the wall.

1.10. Lake Temescal Park 0 routes in Artificial

summary

Ghastly vegetated concrete expansion joint cracks in the supports for an abandoned freeway off-ramp. If that doesn't turn you off, it's also illegal and has a lot of car break ins.

approach

You can pay $5 (mid 2016) for the privilege of visiting this shocking example of what an obsessive mind might call "climbing", by parking inside the Lake Temescal Regional Recreation Area.

history

Probably involved lots of bad drugs.

1.11. Great Western Power Company 0 routes in Gym

description

Located in the heart of downtown Oakland. More details on their website.

1.12. Bladium Rock Wall 0 routes in Gym

description

800 West Tower Avenue - Bldg 40

Alameda

California 94501 USA

http://www.bladiumalameda.com/fitness/rock-climbing

call: (510) 814-4999 x 212

1.13. Rocktopia 0 routes in Gym

description

999 Bancroft

Concord

California 94518 USA

http://dscreationencoregym.homestead.com/Climbing2016.html

call: (925) 932-1033

1.14. Diablo Rock Gym 0 routes in Gym

1.15. Mount Diablo 55 routes in Area

2 1

1 Boy Scout Rocks 2 Pine Canyon

Summary:

Top roping, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 37.875702, -121.919630

1.15.1. Boy Scout Rocks 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: 37.847116, -121.926815

summary

Featured sandstone that makes for technical face climbing as well as unique pockets and jugs

description

The Boy Scout Rocks are located within Mt. Diablo State Park ($10 entry fee!) and offers some of the closest decent sport and top rope climbs in the bay area. The rock is sandstone and the quality ranges from great to loose and sandy. The climbing is mostly technical face climbing, pockets, and jugs on vertical to slabby formations. A few cracks exist but placing protection can be questionable due to rock quality. Some excellent sport routes exist, with the majority of the climbs being an easy top rope setup from access at the top of each cliff.

The area is frequented by climbers and non-climbers alike, with "graffiti" often carved into the sandstone caves. Due to the nature of sandstone, CARE MUST BE TAKEN WHEN SETTING UP TOP ROPES! Access to the top of each cliff is easy (except Butt Rock) and allows for top roping but LONG SLINGS/STATIC ROPE ARE A MUST FOR MANY ROUTES! You will note many deep rope groves from top roping being setup far from the lip of the rock. Some routes have bolted anchors hangers in good condition, others have bolts missing hangers, and others are set up using natural features and trees.

Please climb softly as holds often break easily. Take care of this delicate but awesome rock! It is also advised to NOT CLIMB A FEW DAYS AFTER RAIN! Many holds have been broken off because the rock was still saturated from rain. The area sees moderate use so clean up after yourself and try not to destroy the rock!

The Lower Tier is approx. 90' tall and offers sport routes, trad routes and top ropes and has the highest quality rock and the best climbs. Be careful of loose bolts and anchors as many have not been upgraded. Amazing Face (5.9) and Ozone (5.10c) are area classics.

The Middle Tier is almost all top rope climbs, though there is a few cracks that could be done trad as well. Look for coldshuts on the top of the rock, which can be easily accessed from the far side (south) of the rock. Have a go at Jungle Book (5.10b) and In the Buckets (5.11c).

The Upper Tier is a tall piece of sandstone about 90 feet tall 100 feet across. Most of the routes are top rope due to the fact that it is unsafe to put bolts on the sandstone face. The obvious crack in the middle of the rock is known as Chouinard's Crack (5.9) and serves as an easy reference.

Butt Rock offers a variety of climbing from moderate slabby face climbing to steep face and finger crack climbing. Routes can be toproped using very long slings. A long 5.3 chimney on the south side is the easiest way to the top. A short rappel off the west face is the best way down. Butt Rock is about 100' north of Boy Scout Rocks and there is an easy 2 minutes approach trail leading down from the road. Looking down you can see the rock identified with several large boulders on top

access issues

State park. $10 fee.

approach

Park at Rock City. There is a turnout at the top of the upper tear, but I have been told you will be ticketed if you park there.

For easiest access to Lower Tier/Middle Tier from the bottom, cross the road and find a trail on the east side of the road near the bathroom that heads south (the direction you drove in from (if coming from south gate.) Follow this trail down along a small creek (drainage) for about 10 min. until you see the lower tier ahead of you and to the right. Scramble up to the base of the cliff. See tier descriptions for access info.

For access to top of Upper Tier, hike south along the road for a few minutes until you come to a rock formation on the east (your left) side of the road. This is the top of the Upper Tier and the tree that you see near the road in the middle of the rock is a common top rope anchor.

Butt Rock is about 100' north of Boy Scout Rocks and there is an easy 2 minutes approach trail leading down from the road. Looking down you can see the rock identified with several large boulders on top

ethic

Use long slings and ropes to ensure your top rope extends over the lip of your route. No more rope groves are needed! Don't climb a few days after rain due to the fact that you will break holds when the rock is wet and be sure to climb softly as some holds are delicate!

1.15.2. Pine Canyon 18 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 37.881444, -121.987118

summary

Adventurous climbing on exceptionally soft sandstone.

access issues

Pine Canyon is closed to climbing from February 1st through July 31st every year for Peregrine Falcon nesting. Do not climb here during this period - you will be caught, you will be fined, and you will jeopardize climbing access at this location!

For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

approach

Park at the Diablo Foothills Regional Park Trailhead, then head south on the Pine Canyon trail (called "Castle Rock Rd" and/or "Stage Rd" on some maps). After 10-15 minutes pleasant flat walk the crags will become visible up the hill to the left.

For Castle Rock and Flintstone Rock, the first trail (just left of the rib of Castle Rock itself) is the best trail. For the other crags, continue along the main trail for another couple of minutes until you see climber trails heading up to the left.