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Remillard Park Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Derek Holmes Analise VH AriefNagara Austin Boer Scott S. Wagner Joe oakbri Ignacio Yicel Ramirez Floof

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Table of contents

1. Remillard Park 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Top roping, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 37.891875, -122.261008

access issues

For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

inherited from San Francisco Bay Area

1.1. Main Formation 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Top roping, Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 37.891526, -122.260896

description

The main formation in the park. Three separate fixed anchors on top, above 'Bucket Prow' (a long way back from the edge), the plaque face, and the 'Pinnacle Crack' face.

approach

Step out of your car. You're there!

descent notes

The best top access is on the left side of the formation.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Main Wall

The obvious tall wall covered in large huecos. The belay (a metal pole and a bolt) is 20' back from the edge, so bring a lot of slings, or better yet, a second rope. There are also some opportunities for placing a trad anchor, which can come in handy for the routes to the left of 'Bucket Prow', or if the bolted anchors are in use.

2 The Diamond

Don't use either arete.

V3 Boulder 15ft
3 The Chimney 5.8 Top rope 15ft
4 Right of Crack

Don't use the edge of 'The Chimney'.

V3 Boulder 20ft
5 The Scoop 5.11a Top rope 25ft
6 Pocket Problem 5.10d Top rope 25ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Bucket Prow 5.6 Top rope 35ft
8 The Roof 5.9 Top rope 35ft
9 Aggro Monkey 5.10a Top rope 25ft

Plaque Face

The lovely, though short, orange wall with the plaque, to the right of the main wall. Has a bolted top-roping anchor on top - access is up the ramp to the left.

11 Left Arete 5.9 Top rope 20ft
12 Face Left 5.11d Top rope 20ft
13 Face Right 5.11b Top rope 20ft
14 Right Arete 5.10a Top rope 20ft
15 Remillard Traverse

Traverse the entire main formation, including the Plaque Face. Traditionally done left to right.

V4 Boulder 100ft

Pinnacle Crack Face

The face up behind the top of the Plaque Face. To set up a toprope, use the toprope access for the Main Wall (or solo 'The Gully' - not recommended).

17 The Gully

The scungy gully underneath 'Pinnacle Crack'.

5.2 Top rope 25ft
18 The Slab

The nice thin face underneath 'Pinnacle Crack'. Lots of variations.

5.9 Top rope 25ft
19 Pinnacle Crack

The dihedral crack. Can be led (small wires & cams).

5.7 Trad 30ft

1.2. North Formation 3 routes in Feature

Summary:
All Top roping

Lat / Long: 37.891991, -122.260873

description

A fun steep wall that's a bit marred by sharp rock and some large loose flakes. 2 good bolts on top for top-roping.

approach

Walk north along the path from the 'Main Formation', and as you round the jumbled northern side you'll see a small overgrown pinnacle to the left. Carefully solo to the top (some loose rock) to set a top-rope.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left

Sustained climbing up the undercut left side of the face, passing some slopey underclings.

5.11b Top rope 25ft
2 Centre

Centre of the face on sharp jugs.

5.9 Top rope 25ft
3 Right

Right side, with some large loose flakes at the top.

5.10a Top rope 25ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5.2 The Gully Top rope 25ft 1.1. Main Formation
5.6 Bucket Prow Top rope 35ft 1.1. Main Formation
5.7 Pinnacle Crack Trad 30ft 1.1. Main Formation
5.8 The Chimney Top rope 15ft 1.1. Main Formation
5.9 Left Arete Top rope 20ft 1.1. Main Formation
The Roof Top rope 35ft 1.1. Main Formation
The Slab Top rope 25ft 1.1. Main Formation
Centre Top rope 25ft 1.2. North Formation
5.10a Aggro Monkey Top rope 25ft 1.1. Main Formation
Right Arete Top rope 20ft 1.1. Main Formation
Right Top rope 25ft 1.2. North Formation
5.10d Pocket Problem Top rope 25ft 1.1. Main Formation
5.11a The Scoop Top rope 25ft 1.1. Main Formation
5.11b Face Right Top rope 20ft 1.1. Main Formation
Left Top rope 25ft 1.2. North Formation
V3 Right of Crack Boulder 20ft 1.1. Main Formation
The Diamond Boulder 15ft 1.1. Main Formation
5.11d Face Left Top rope 20ft 1.1. Main Formation
V4 Remillard Traverse Boulder 100ft 1.1. Main Formation
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