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Main Formation

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 80

Seasonality

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Description

The main formation in the park. Three separate fixed anchors on top, above 'Bucket Prow' (a long way back from the edge), the plaque face, and the 'Pinnacle Crack' face.

Access issues inherited from San Francisco Bay Area

For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Approach

Step out of your car. You're there!

Descent notes

The best top access is on the left side of the formation.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The obvious tall wall covered in large huecos. The belay (a metal pole and a bolt) is 20' back from the edge, so bring a lot of slings, or better yet, a second rope. There are also some opportunities for placing a trad anchor, which can come in handy for the routes to the left of 'Bucket Prow', or if the bolted anchors are in use.

Don't use either arete.

Don't use the edge of 'The Chimney'.

The lovely, though short, orange wall with the plaque, to the right of the main wall. Has a bolted top-roping anchor on top - access is up the ramp to the left.

Traverse the entire main formation, including the Plaque Face. Traditionally done left to right.

The face up behind the top of the Plaque Face. To set up a toprope, use the toprope access for the Main Wall (or solo 'The Gully' - not recommended).

The scungy gully underneath 'Pinnacle Crack'.

The nice thin face underneath 'Pinnacle Crack'. Lots of variations.

The dihedral crack. Can be led (small wires & cams).

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations

Author(s): Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sat 27 May
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