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Bubba City
Although the main orientation of this crag is south and south-west many routes see shade all day when the leaves are on the trees. Route lengths vary quite a bit but you will find some longer ones that allow you to climb above the tree tops and enjoy the view (e.g. The Decameron). Sectors are sorted left to right (down to upstream). |
Rubble Rock
A small trad sector on the far left of Bubba City. Routes are sorted right to left as you arrive like this at the sector. |
Rubble Rock |
5.11a ★ Frilled Dog Winkle |
5.10a ★ The Hideosity |
5.10b ★ Gift From The Mayor |
5.11d ★ Metabolic Optimizer |
5.10b ★ Thing Foot |
5.11a ★ Waka Jawaka |
5.12a ★ Mercenary Territory |
Tattoo Wall
From Good Luck Cemetry Parking hike below the power lines on the well marked trail and follow the signs for Sandstonia to the forth power pole. Take a left into the forest (well indicated) and stay on the right trail. Hike down the switchbacks to arrive on the left end of Tattoo Wall. |
Tattoo Wall |
5.10a ★ Hardcore Female Rash |
5.9 Celtic Sun |
5.8 Assman |
5.6 ★ Five-Five My Ass |
5.6 ★ Bobby D's Bunny |
5.8
★★ Geisha Girl
Start at the obvious fist crack and step left after it to the high first bolt. Straight up to big jugs. |
5.8
★★ Mrs. Field's Follies
Same start as Geisha Girl but continue straight up and through a high roof to the anchor. |
5.10c ★★ Kinesthetica |
5.10d ★ Hep-C |
5.11c ★★ Barb Wire |
5.10b
★★ Badass Tattoo
Shares first 2 bolts with Barb Wire, then heads out right. Pass the roof on the left and enjoy the finish. |
5.11c ★★★ Bikini Line |
5.11a ★★ G-String |
5.10d ★★ Booby Prize |
5.12b ★ Clean Shaved |
5.12a ★★ Mike Tyson's Face |
5.12b
One Repitition Max
Same start and anchor as Butterfly Flake but climbs left of it. |
5.7
★ Butterfly Flake
High first bolt. Climb to the flake and stay on it until reaching anchors. |
5.6 ★ Plumber's Crack |
5.12c ★★ Pure Power |
5.12b ★★ White Henna |
5.7
★★ Shady Lady
The leftmost route in the alcove. |
5.10d
★★ Lieback and Enjoy It
Start on almost white rock and trend left to the obvious dihedral. Anchors just above it. |
5.11a
★★ Weisenheimer Brainstorm
This is Layback and Enjoy It with its extension. Big holds on steep terrain lead to a high anchor. |
5.10a
★★ The Good Book
Start on the big flake, trend left through easier terrain and than up into the open book (dihedral) and right to the anchor. Same anchor as Crescendo. |
5.9
★★ Crescendo
Start right just where the big leaning flake is and trend slightly left to anchors mid-way up. |
5.10a
★★ Zeitgeist
Shares the first 6 bolts with Crescendo but passes the anchor on the right. Big holds lead to an anchor high up. |
5.12a ★ Lord Of The Jungle |
Decameron Area
As for Tattoo Wall but continue along the base of the cliff (left when you arrive). |
Decameron Area |
5.4 Slip Sliding Away |
5.10a ★★ Cool Crack |
5.11a ★ Climb Free or Die |
5.11a Jaws of Life |
5.11a ★ To Bubba Or Not To Be |
5.10c ★★ Witches of Bangor |
5.10b ★★ The Decameron |
5.8 Mixed Emotions |
5.9 Beef Boy Field Day |
5.10b ★ Centennial |
5.11b ★ ISO 9000 |
5.10c ★ Double Twouble |
5.11a ★ Risky Business |
5.11c Bass Ackward |
5.9 ★★ Pay it Forward |
5.12d The Bitter End |
Kingfish
Mostly trad climbing with few exceptional lines. |
Kingfish |
5.8 C.T. Crack |
5.11a R ★ Face Value |
5.10b ★ Daily Waste |
5.10a Mid-Height Crisis |
5.9 ★ Just Another Crack |
5.9 ★ The Metamorphosis |
5.7 ★ Ratz Holm |
5.12a ★★ Freeblast |
5.11b ★ Bubba's Big Adventure Direct Start |
5.10a ★ Bubba's Big Adventure |
5.10d ★ Café Chic |
5.11b
★ King Of Swing Direct Finish
Straight out the roof. |
5.11a ★★ King Of Swing |
5.12b ★ Not 'Til Verdon |
5.10b ★ Solitude Standing |
5.12c Fortitude |
5.5 ★ Goodbye Mr. Lizzard |
5.8 ★ The Trial |
5.6 Silly Little Corner |
5.12a ★ Iron Cross |
5.10a ★ If Frogs Had Wings |
Ameless Wall |
Ameless Wall |
5.10b Plastic Sturgeons |
5.10a ★ Face Lift |
5.8 Face Lift Direct Start |
5.10b Women Who Won't Wear Wool |
5.10 ★ Bloodtest |
5.10b ★ Men Who Love Sheep |
Little Head Wall |
Little Head Wall |
5.9 Check Your Pants |
5.7 Stalking The Wild Toad |
5.7 Helmeted Warrior Of Love |
5.7 ★ Comic Relief |
5.11b Udder Classic |
5.11a Technique Heavy Heifer |
5.10a ★ Apostrophe |
5.10a ★ Cruise Slut |
5.10b Emergency Room Exit |
5.10b ★ Crazy Ambulance Driver |
5.10b The Hunger Artist |
5.7 ★ An Affair With The Heart |
Headless Wall |
Headless Wall |
5.10a ★ Pyro Vixen |
5.10c ★★ Ichabod Crane |