Ascents in Longs Peak

Great climbing in a great position

Great variety climb with traverses, hand/finger cracks, and squeeze chimney. The easiest climb on the Diamond. I would count the North Chimney as one pitch, and one more if you want to summit (200 feet easy chimney free solo after the last anchor.) The approach was still the biggest challenge for me:)

Alpine trad at 4000m.. I led pitch 1, Henk did p2, TC took us up the crux pitches and Henk led the last to Table ledge.. Nothing on this route was a give away! There was definitely some hangs for me on second through the crux pitches.. But man o man some of the best finger locks ever on this thing!! A f##ckin awesome day out with two of my best adventure bros in an amazing setting!

This was my first alpine climb, and it started in fine form, with me holding a piece of granite in both hands as improvised ice axes, smashing them into the snow/ice, while my shoes were slipping everywhere like a cartoon character, and if I slide, I pull Rob off who is simulclimbing above me (on rock), 20m runout. So that's how it started, and it was engaging for the rest of our ascent, and epic descent. Car to car in 20.5 hours. We were super lucky with the weather as afternoon storms are the norm, yet we were spared -- apart from some hail (enough to make the scramble to the top on wet, loose granite blocks some of the scariest climbing of the day - at 14,000ft). Memorable in the same way climbing El Cap is memorable.

A long term goal to one day have the skills and opportunity to climb on "The Diamond" at the top of the Rocky Mountains. Longs Peak is 4346m. Everything about a high altitude alpine trad route in the back country is more complex. There are a 100 decisions to be made and most of them have to be accurate or there's going to be trouble! The climbing is actually one of the more predictable parts. The logistics of approach, timing, exit strategy, weather, food, water, clothing, rack, ropes, communication. If your a 5.10 climber, I wouldn't even consider this route, it is sustained and bold and a lot of experience needed to mitigate the risks. The approach up North Gully is highly dangerous and has had multiple fatalities and serious accidents. That is about 5 pitches similclimbed after crossing the permanent ice at the bottom (with or without ice gear) These are not mentioned in the description. We linked pitches 2 &3 and then pitches 5 & 6 cuts down rope work, but meant some spicy run outs with the rack. The climbing is amazing though! The route took mostly small cams and a lot of nuts. Plenty of long runners used. The top pitches were technical and easy to make mistakes, plus highly exposed. The traverse pitch also being complicated to get to correct piton anchors. (there are new rap chains near here) Take some spare webbing to add to anchors if you don't want to trust the multiple faded options that are bundled together. We had a late hail storm come through and wet the rock! Slippery wet granite with lichen and a few easier 5th class pitches were tricky. Multiple ways up have been used to reach the summit via Kiener's Corner. The walk off took about 5 hours back to the trail head. We had no water for many hours. Great Adventure! Leave early.... Say your hail Mary's to the mountain gods.

solo down climb was a great way to avoid the masses

W/Eric. really good

amzaing

hiked keyhole first time labor day wknd

great fun

Excellent Alpine Route