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Routes in Armed and Dangerous

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Showing all 33 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.6 Rainbow

Start on the ledge, go up over steep juggy rock then angle leftwards up more slabby rock.

Belayer should consider slinging the tree to anchor in.

FA: Tom Bowker, 1986

Sport 7
5.9 Men in White Suits

Right hand bolt line leading up off the ledge. First bolt is a bit high (though over easy ground), so belayer may with to anchor to the tree to the right. Technical on the early part of the face, then more powerful near the end.

FA: Erik Mushial, 1991

Set: Erik Mushial, 1991

Sport 5
5.6 Brendan's

Follow the right-angling corner/ramp from the right end of the ledge.

Trad
5.7 Half Nelson

New (since 2009) short route that starts down and right of the ledge.

Sport
5.11- Full Nelson

2nd pitch, goes up the steep headwall above "Half Nelson".

Sport
5.9 Bonnie and Clyde

Bouldery start to easier finish.

FA: Lee Hansche & Lily Hallett, 2010

Sport 15m, 4
5.8 Anchovie Caper

Start between some trees growing close to the wall, just before the base turns a corner.

The start is bouldery, leading into easier climbing up the arete. Rock is much smoother without the usual sharp Rumney edges.

Sport 6
5.9 Panama Hat

Starts from the end of "Anchovie Caper", going up and right from the belay.

FA: Mark Sprague

Sport 7
5.11a Flying Squirrel

Also starts above the end of "Anchovie Caper", go right from the belay, the up onto a ledge, then up an arete. Joins "Mister Meaner" at the top.

FA: Chris Smith

Sport 15m, 8
5.10b Fish Corner

On the right of Anchovy Caper, climb in the dihedral now protected by a lower bolt. Start on a crimp with good footholds and toss to a jug on the right to get up the dihedral. Then easier climbing up to the anchor.

Sport 14m
5.9 Green Mile

Climb the smooth (and, for Rumney, very low friction) slab with a thin crack in it.

Sport
5.8 Mentally Disturbed

Corner

Sport 5
5.10a Juicy Fingers

Left up a crack, then right; shares anchor with "Scene of the Crime"

Trad
5.10a Scene of the Crime
Sport 15m, 5
5.11c Cereal Killer

FA: Tim Kemple Sr., 1999

Sport 24m, 8
5.10b Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication

FFA: Tom Bowker, 1990

FFA: Glen Cilley, 1994

Sport 25m, 10
5.10d Clusterphobia

FA: Mark Sprague, 2005

Sport
5.8 Metamorphosis
Sport
5.7 PG Slack
1 5.5 G
2 5.7 PG

FA: Chris Hassig & Mark Iber, 1979

Trad 2
5.6 PG13 Barbershop Duet

FA: Ryan Barber & Bradley White, 2010

Trad 18m
5.11d Mitosis

FA: Chris Smith

Sport 12m
5.13b Mesresha

Set: Mike Robinson & Bradley White, 2012

FFA: James Otey, 2012

Sport
5.10c Seasame Street
Sport
5.7 The Big Easy

Starts over a low overhang.

  1. 5.7, 10 bolts.Low overhang, slab, then a bit steeper.

  2. 5.4, 5 bolts. Continue up easy slab.

Many people just climb the better first pitch.

Sport 2, 10
5.9 The White Buttress

Extension of The Big Easy or Bourbon Street

FA: Chris Hassig & Mark Iber, 1979

Trad
5.9 Greener Pastures

Extension of The Big Easy

FA: Eli Buzzell & Justin Hardesty, 12 Aug 2021

Sport
5.10c Bourbon Street

Extension of The Big Easy

FA: Mark Sprague, 2006

Sport
5.11c Cloud Atlas

Alternate second pitch of The Big Easy

FA: Chris Smith, Mar 2016

Sport
5.8 Toxic Gumbo

Climb the over-hanging corner up and right, then up good climbing above.

Sport 10
5.9 Boats from Cuba

Alternate second pitch to The Big Easy

FA: Chris Hassig, 1980

Trad
5.10a Arugula, Arugula

Climb straight up through the left side of the large roof.

FA: Keith Becconsall, 2011

Sport
5.10a Far From Feral

Climb straight up through the right side of the large roof.

FA: Keith Becconsall, 2011

Sport
5.8 The Maltese Falcon

Slab at the right end of this section.

FA: Keith Becconsall, 2011

Sport 9

Showing all 33 routes.

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