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North Dome Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Richard Pattison bob steed Philip C Pavel Burov Jason Liebgott Patrick Paul Alysson Franklin Jake Forker jerry ross

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. North Dome 10 routes in Area

Summary:
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F
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S
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Seasonality

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 37.755054, -119.559991

access issues

As of 27/06/22:

-"A reservation will be required to drive into or through Yosemite National Park from May 20 through September 30, 2022, for those driving into the park between 6 am and 4 pm." (note this may occur through a in-park camping or accomodation permit or wilderness/bigwall permit), a permit is NOT required if entering the park outside of these hours. (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/reservations.htm )

-"As of May 2021, a wilderness permit is required for all overnight big wall climbs. During this pilot, wilderness permits for climbers are free and there are no quotas or limits on the number of permits available." (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingpermits.htm ). See previous link for details on picking up this permit.

inherited from Yosemite National Park
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Skid Row 5.8 Unknown
2 West Face 5.8 Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 South Face

Fantastic views, almost guaranteed solitude, 900' of solid granite, a great route at 5.7 (or more likely 5.9). The real crux is route-finding on P3.

Valley Approach: Climb Royal Arches with an early start, then hike to the base of North Dome.

Tuolumne Approach: Hike in from Porcupine Creek.

From the base of the south face, hike up a 3rd class ledge angling from bottom left to top right, aiming for the large corner in the centre of the face.

  1. 160ft (5.6R) up slabs, small cams at your feet on ledges, then up crack to tree belay.

  2. 100ft (5.6) up left facing corner to belay on one of two trees.

  3. 160ft (5.7) route-finding crux, ignore the many slings further up the corner in easy terrain. Move up the corner for only ~20ft, step right onto a sloping ledge and continue right almost above the belay, then swing up and over on to the face, contour 10ft to a crack, then follow up to belay above bushes, cams in crack. Rope drag is a problem. All moves can be protected with cams, but you'll likely need a mid-belay just up on the face due to rope drag.

  4. 160ft (5.7) Continue up the crack with good gear, near the top it narrows and small nuts or cams are required, before a 20ft run-out slab with 5.6 friction leading to a bushy ledge. Belay with cams in corner.

  5. 160ft (5.7) Up awkward chimney with awkward move to exit at the top, then up to right facing corner with beautiful (but strenuous) lay-backing). Tree & cam belay.

  6. 160ft (5.7, more like 5.9) Similar to previous pitch but steeper. Up awkward chimney, then strenuous lay-backing. Stop for a semi-hanging belay when you're ready.

  7. 100ft (5.5) Presuming you belayed beyond the steepest section, continue up the easing corner, up and short step and follow the corner around to the right to a stance, cam belay.

  8. 100ft (5.6) Climb out to the left above the crack to a friction slab, make sure you place gear in a small crack line in the face to protect the final 20ft run-out slab. Then 50ft of 4th class friction to belay at large tree.

Unrope and continue up 3rd class terrain to the summit.

Valley Descent: Quite epic, descend the North Dome gully. Tuolumne "Descent": actually ascent, hike up the trails to Porupine Creek.

FA: Mark Powell & Wally Reed, 1957

FFA: Mort Hempel, Irene Ortenberger & Steve Roper, 1960

5.7 Trad 900ft, 8
4 Mass Assault 5.9 Unknown
5 Freaks of Nature 5.11c A0 Aid
6 Priceless Friends 5.10a Unknown
7 Crest Jewel 5.10a Sport 720ft
8 Nataraj

A long, moderate slab climb with a bit of A0 bolt pulling at the start. Starts below the left end of the huge roof system that dominates the Southeast face of North Dome. Finishes a few feet from Crest Jewel.

FA: Dan Dingle, Bob Steed & Chris Callegari, 2008

5.10b A0 Mixed trad 1500ft, 13, 67
9 Dakshina (Psycho Killer) 5.11 Unknown
10 Doctor Gravity 5.11b Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.7 South Face Trad 900ft, 8
5.8 Skid Row Unknown
West Face Unknown
5.9 Mass Assault Unknown
5.10a Crest Jewel Sport 720ft
Priceless Friends Unknown
5.10b A0 Nataraj Mixed trad 1500ft, 13, 67
5.11b Doctor Gravity Unknown
5.11c A0 Freaks of Nature Aid
5.11 Dakshina (Psycho Killer) Unknown
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