South Lower Merced Canyon Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Josh Mackenzie Simon Dale Barbara Zangerl Kai rick Paul Frothy Thomson mark.lutterman Miguel Madero Will Vidler Fraser

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. South Lower Merced Canyon 125 in Area
- 1.1. Turtleback Dome 85 in Area
  - 1.1.1. Super Nova Area 3 in Area
  - 1.1.2. The Rostrum 24 in Area
    - 1.1.2.1. North Face 6 in Area
    - 1.1.2.2. West Base 7 in Area
    - 1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym 11 in Area
  - 1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard 6 in Area
  - 1.1.4. Elephant Rock 41 in Area
    - 1.1.4.1. East Face 8 in Area
    - 1.1.4.2. Top 12 in Area
    - 1.1.4.3. East Side 6 in Area
    - 1.1.4.4. Worst Error 5 in Area
    - 1.1.4.5. West Side 8 in Area
    - 1.1.4.6. Elephant Rock Boulders 2 in Area
  - 1.1.5. Overview 11 in Area
- 1.2. Discovery View 1 in Area
- 1.3. Wawona Tunnel, Eastern Vent 1 in Area
- 1.4. Flagman Buttress 2 in Area
- 1.5. Pulpit Rock 14 in Area
  - 1.5.1. Southeast Face 6 in Area
  - 1.5.2. Northwest Face 5 in Area
  - 1.5.3. High Pressure Cliff 3 in Area
- 1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End 8 in Area
- 1.7. Wawona Tunnel, West 2 in Area
- 1.8. Cream Area 6 in Area
- 1.9. The Blowhole 6 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. South Lower Merced Canyon 125 routes in Area

1 Turtleback Dome

Summary:

Seasonality

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 37.715160, -119.702239

access issues

As of 27/06/22:

-"A reservation will be required to drive into or through Yosemite National Park from May 20 through September 30, 2022, for those driving into the park between 6 am and 4 pm." (note this may occur through a in-park camping or accomodation permit or wilderness/bigwall permit), a permit is NOT required if entering the park outside of these hours. (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/reservations.htm )

-"As of May 2021, a wilderness permit is required for all overnight big wall climbs. During this pilot, wilderness permits for climbers are free and there are no quotas or limits on the number of permits available." (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingpermits.htm ). See previous link for details on picking up this permit.

inherited from Yosemite National Park

1.1. Turtleback Dome 85 routes in Area

2 The Rostrum

Summary:: Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 37.715947, -119.704787

1.1.1. Super Nova Area 3 routes in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Super Nova	5.11a	Unknown
2	★ Dime Bag	5.10c	Unknown
3	★★ Crack the Whip	5.11b	Unknown

1.1.2. The Rostrum 24 routes in Area

Summary:: Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 37.718790, -119.708026

1.1.2.1. North Face 6 routes in Area

Summary:: Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★★ The Regular North Face Route	5.11c	Trad 900ft, 8
2	★★★ The Regular North Face Route via The Excellent Adventure	5.13c	Unknown
3	★ Mad Pilot	5.11b A1	Aid
4	★★★ Uprising	5.11b	Unknown
5	★★★ Alien / Alien Roof	5.12b	Trad 800ft, 8
6	★★★ Blind Faith	5.11d	Unknown

1.1.2.2. West Base 7 routes in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★★ Kauk-ulator	5.11c	Unknown
2	Battle-Ship	5.10	Unknown
3	The West Base Route	5.10c	Unknown
4	★★ The Notch Route	5.4	Unknown
5	★ Loyd's Return Trip	5.9	Unknown
6	★ Static Cling	5.10a	Unknown
7	★ Le Bachar	5.11b	Unknown

1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym 11 routes in Area

Summary:: Rock climbing and Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Breast Fest	5.10c	Unknown
2	★ Alamo	5.11a	Unknown
3	Pygmy Village	5.12	Unknown
4	★ Jungle Book	5.10a	Trad
5	Loyd's Lolly Pop	5.9	Unknown
6	Concrete Jungle (Poodle Bites)	5.10d	Trad
7	Minor Kinda Unit	5.9	Trad
8	★★ Flight Attendant	5.10c	Trad
9	★ Dancing in the Dark	5.11c	Unknown
10	★★ The Viper	5.11c	Unknown
11	Paddy Melt	5.10b	Unknown

1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard 6 routes in Area

Summary:: Rock climbing and Aid climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Razor's Edge	5.12	Unknown
2	Battlescar	5.11d A1	Aid
3	★ Slit Your Tires	5.11d A1	Aid
4	★ Pet Semetary	5.11b	Unknown
5	Eagle	5.10a	Unknown
6	The Elephant Guy	5.10	Unknown

1.1.4. Elephant Rock 41 routes in Area

Summary:: Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

1.1.4.1. East Face 8 routes in Area

Summary:: Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Book of Hate A fantastic dihedral.	5.13d	Trad 150ft
2	★ Take Da Plunge	5.12c	Unknown
3	★ Candy-O	5.11d	Unknown
4	★ Left Guru Crack	5.10c	Trad
5	★ Right Guru Crack	5.10a	Trad
6	★★ Elephant Talk	5.11b	Sport
7	★ Killing Yourself to Live	5.12a	Unknown
8	★★★ Keeper of the Flame	5.13a	Unknown

1.1.4.2. Top 12 routes in Area

Summary:: Rock climbing and Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Fly Swatter	5.12a	Unknown
2	★ Isaiah 2:21	5.12d	Unknown
3	★★ Sky	5.11c	Unknown
4	★★ Hocus Pocus	5.11d	Unknown
5	★ Elephantiasis	5.10d R	Unknown
6	★ Pink Elephant	5.9	Unknown
7	Crack of Destiny	5.9	Unknown
8	★★ The Hundredth Monkey When looking out from the top of the semi-detached pillar, The Hundredth Monkey is on the right side.	5.11b	Sport 75ft
9	★★★ Fun Terminal This route and the following 2 start from the same rap in belay stance. This is the left-most of the 3. FA: Dimitri Barton	5.12a	Sport 75ft
10	★★★ Wicked Gravity The middle line. Steep and brilliant. FA: Dimitri Barton	5.12c	Sport 75ft
11	★★★ Bucket Brigade The right hand line. Exciting climbing and great exposure up the right hand Arete FA: Dimitri Barton-Roy McClenahan	5.11d	Sport 75ft
12	Elephant Malt	5.9 R	Unknown

1.1.4.3. East Side 6 routes in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Reality Check	5.10c	Unknown
2	★ Plumb Line	5.10d	Unknown
3	★ Trundling Juan	5.10b	Unknown
4	★★ Straight Error	5.10c	Unknown
5	Real Error	5.7	Unknown
6	Foaming at the Crotch	5.10a	Unknown

1.1.4.4. Worst Error 5 routes in Area

Summary:: Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Lost Error	5.10a	Unknown
2	★★ Crashline	5.11b	Unknown
3	★ Worst Error, Left	5.9	Unknown
4	★★★ Hotline	5.12b	Trad 7
5	★★★ Fatal Mistake	5.11a A1	Aid 2

1.1.4.5. West Side 8 routes in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★★ Pink Dream	5.10a	Unknown
2	★ Nightmare Continuation	5.11d	Unknown
3	★ Right Side Route	5.10a	Unknown
4	★ Crack of Doom	5.10a	Unknown
5	★★ Hairline	5.11b	Unknown
6	★★ Moongerms	5.12a	Unknown
7	Crack of Deliverance	5.9	Unknown
8	Elephant's Eliminate	5.12d	Unknown

1.1.4.6. Elephant Rock Boulders 2 routes in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Monster Boulder	5.11a	Unknown
2		Jaws	5.12a	Unknown

1.1.5. Overview 11 routes in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Spinal Tap	5.11b	Unknown
2	Like a Hurricane	5.11a	Unknown
3	★ Digital Delight	5.12a	Unknown
4	Bone Yard	5.10b	Unknown
5	★ Emotional Wreckage	5.11b	Unknown
6	Walking on Mars	5.12	Unknown
7	★ Inch-and-a-Quarter Blues	5.11a	Unknown
8	Gorilla Grip	5.11c	Unknown
9	★ Bridwell Corner	5.9	Unknown
10	★★★ Whipchord	5.13c	Unknown
11	Country Corner	5.9	Unknown

1.2. Discovery View 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Overdrive	5.11a	Unknown

1.3. Wawona Tunnel, Eastern Vent 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Pump Dummy	5.11d	Unknown

1.4. Flagman Buttress 2 routes in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Scrub Scouts	5.10c	Unknown
2		Flagman	5.11a	Unknown

1.5. Pulpit Rock 14 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Rock climbing

1.5.1. Southeast Face 6 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Rock climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Notch Route	5.10b	Unknown
2	East Face	5.10c	Unknown
3	★★ Tree Route	5.9	Trad
4	Improbable Traverse	5.7	Unknown
5	Original Sin	5.10c	Unknown
6	★ Pulpit Pooper	5.10b	Unknown

1.5.2. Northwest Face 5 routes in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Sky Pilot	5.10c	Unknown
2	★★ The Sermon	5.10b	Unknown
3	Waste of Time	5.10c	Unknown
4	★★ Magilla Gorilla	5.11b	Unknown
5	★ Gorilla Cookies	5.10d	Unknown

1.5.3. High Pressure Cliff 3 routes in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ High Pressure	5.11b	Unknown
2	Open Trench	5.10a	Unknown
3	Lost of Venus	5.7	Unknown

1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End 8 routes in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ A Dog's Roof	5.12b	Unknown
2	★ A Bit of OK	5.12b	Unknown
3	Walk On By	5.10a	Unknown
4	Your Pizza Is Ready	5.9	Unknown
5	★ Eat at Degnan's	5.9	Unknown
6	Pohono The Barbarian	5.10a	Unknown
7	Landshark	5.12a	Unknown
8	Dancin' Days	5.11c	Unknown

1.7. Wawona Tunnel, West 2 routes in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		I Don't Know	5.10a	Unknown
2		I Don't Remember	5.9	Unknown

1.8. Cream Area 6 routes in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Cream	5.11a	Unknown
2	★ Jam Session	5.10b	Unknown
3	Cartwheel	5.10a	Unknown
4	Monkey Do	5.10c	Unknown
5	★★★ Energy Crisis	5.11d	Unknown
6	Shiver-Me-Timbers	5.8	Unknown

1.9. The Blowhole 6 routes in Area

Summary:: All Rock climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Thar She Blows	5.11a	Unknown
2	★★ Honk If Your Horny	5.10c	Unknown
3	★ Wind Tunnel	5.10b	Unknown
4	★ The Fledgling	5.10a	Unknown
5	★ Fire in the Hole	5.10b	Unknown
6	★★ Variation	5.10a	Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
5.4	★★	The Notch Route	Unknown	1.1.2.2. West Base
5.7		Real Error	Unknown	1.1.4.3. East Side
		Improbable Traverse	Unknown	1.5.1. Southeast Face
		Lost of Venus	Unknown	1.5.3. High Pressure Cliff
5.8		Shiver-Me-Timbers	Unknown	1.8. Cream Area
5.9	★	Loyd's Return Trip	Unknown	1.1.2.2. West Base
		Loyd's Lolly Pop	Unknown	1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
		Minor Kinda Unit	Trad	1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
		Crack of Destiny	Unknown	1.1.4.2. Top
	★	Pink Elephant	Unknown	1.1.4.2. Top
	★	Worst Error, Left	Unknown	1.1.4.4. Worst Error
		Crack of Deliverance	Unknown	1.1.4.5. West Side
	★	Bridwell Corner	Unknown	1.1.5. Overview
		Country Corner	Unknown	1.1.5. Overview
	★★	Tree Route	Trad	1.5.1. Southeast Face
	★	Eat at Degnan's	Unknown	1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
		Your Pizza Is Ready	Unknown	1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
		I Don't Remember	Unknown	1.7. Wawona Tunnel, West
5.9 R		Elephant Malt	Unknown	1.1.4.2. Top
5.10a	★	Static Cling	Unknown	1.1.2.2. West Base
	★	Jungle Book	Trad	1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
		Eagle	Unknown	1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard
	★	Right Guru Crack	Trad	1.1.4.1. East Face
		Foaming at the Crotch	Unknown	1.1.4.3. East Side
		Lost Error	Unknown	1.1.4.4. Worst Error
	★	Crack of Doom	Unknown	1.1.4.5. West Side
	★★★	Pink Dream	Unknown	1.1.4.5. West Side
	★	Right Side Route	Unknown	1.1.4.5. West Side
		Open Trench	Unknown	1.5.3. High Pressure Cliff
		Pohono The Barbarian	Unknown	1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
		Walk On By	Unknown	1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
		I Don't Know	Unknown	1.7. Wawona Tunnel, West
		Cartwheel	Unknown	1.8. Cream Area
	★	The Fledgling	Unknown	1.9. The Blowhole
	★★	Variation	Unknown	1.9. The Blowhole
5.10b		Paddy Melt	Unknown	1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
	★	Trundling Juan	Unknown	1.1.4.3. East Side
		Bone Yard	Unknown	1.1.5. Overview
		Notch Route	Unknown	1.5.1. Southeast Face
	★	Pulpit Pooper	Unknown	1.5.1. Southeast Face
	★★	The Sermon	Unknown	1.5.2. Northwest Face
	★	Jam Session	Unknown	1.8. Cream Area
	★	Fire in the Hole	Unknown	1.9. The Blowhole
	★	Wind Tunnel	Unknown	1.9. The Blowhole
5.10c	★	Dime Bag	Unknown	1.1.1. Super Nova Area
		The West Base Route	Unknown	1.1.2.2. West Base
	★★	Breast Fest	Unknown	1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
	★★	Flight Attendant	Trad	1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
	★	Left Guru Crack	Trad	1.1.4.1. East Face
	★	Reality Check	Unknown	1.1.4.3. East Side
	★★	Straight Error	Unknown	1.1.4.3. East Side
		Scrub Scouts	Unknown	1.4. Flagman Buttress
		East Face	Unknown	1.5.1. Southeast Face
		Original Sin	Unknown	1.5.1. Southeast Face
		Sky Pilot	Unknown	1.5.2. Northwest Face
		Waste of Time	Unknown	1.5.2. Northwest Face
		Monkey Do	Unknown	1.8. Cream Area
	★★	Honk If Your Horny	Unknown	1.9. The Blowhole
5.10		Battle-Ship	Unknown	1.1.2.2. West Base
		The Elephant Guy	Unknown	1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard
5.10d		Concrete Jungle (Poodle Bites)	Trad	1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
	★	Plumb Line	Unknown	1.1.4.3. East Side
	★	Gorilla Cookies	Unknown	1.5.2. Northwest Face
5.10d R	★	Elephantiasis	Unknown	1.1.4.2. Top
5.11a	★	Super Nova	Unknown	1.1.1. Super Nova Area
	★	Alamo	Unknown	1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
		Monster Boulder	Unknown	1.1.4.6. Elephant Rock Boulders
	★	Inch-and-a-Quarter Blues	Unknown	1.1.5. Overview
		Like a Hurricane	Unknown	1.1.5. Overview
	★	Overdrive	Unknown	1.2. Discovery View
		Flagman	Unknown	1.4. Flagman Buttress
	★★	Cream	Unknown	1.8. Cream Area
	★★	Thar She Blows	Unknown	1.9. The Blowhole
5.11a A1	★★★	Fatal Mistake	Aid 2	1.1.4.4. Worst Error
5.11b	★★	Crack the Whip	Unknown	1.1.1. Super Nova Area
	★★★	Uprising	Unknown	1.1.2.1. North Face
	★	Le Bachar	Unknown	1.1.2.2. West Base
	★	Pet Semetary	Unknown	1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard
	★★	Elephant Talk	Sport	1.1.4.1. East Face
	★★	The Hundredth Monkey	Sport 75ft	1.1.4.2. Top
	★★	Crashline	Unknown	1.1.4.4. Worst Error
	★★	Hairline	Unknown	1.1.4.5. West Side
	★	Emotional Wreckage	Unknown	1.1.5. Overview
	★	Spinal Tap	Unknown	1.1.5. Overview
	★★	Magilla Gorilla	Unknown	1.5.2. Northwest Face
	★	High Pressure	Unknown	1.5.3. High Pressure Cliff
5.11b A1	★	Mad Pilot	Aid	1.1.2.1. North Face
5.11c	★★★	The Regular North Face Route	Trad 900ft, 8	1.1.2.1. North Face
	★★★	Kauk-ulator	Unknown	1.1.2.2. West Base
	★	Dancing in the Dark	Unknown	1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
	★★	The Viper	Unknown	1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
	★★	Sky	Unknown	1.1.4.2. Top
		Gorilla Grip	Unknown	1.1.5. Overview
		Dancin' Days	Unknown	1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
5.11d	★★★	Blind Faith	Unknown	1.1.2.1. North Face
	★	Candy-O	Unknown	1.1.4.1. East Face
	★★★	Bucket Brigade	Sport 75ft	1.1.4.2. Top
	★★	Hocus Pocus	Unknown	1.1.4.2. Top
	★	Nightmare Continuation	Unknown	1.1.4.5. West Side
	★	Pump Dummy	Unknown	1.3. Wawona Tunnel, Eastern Vent
	★★★	Energy Crisis	Unknown	1.8. Cream Area
5.11d A1		Battlescar	Aid	1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard
	★	Slit Your Tires	Aid	1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard
5.12a	★	Killing Yourself to Live	Unknown	1.1.4.1. East Face
	★	Fly Swatter	Unknown	1.1.4.2. Top
	★★★	Fun Terminal	Sport 75ft	1.1.4.2. Top
	★★	Moongerms	Unknown	1.1.4.5. West Side
		Jaws	Unknown	1.1.4.6. Elephant Rock Boulders
	★	Digital Delight	Unknown	1.1.5. Overview
		Landshark	Unknown	1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
5.12b	★★★	Alien	Trad 800ft, 8	1.1.2.1. North Face
	★★★	Hotline	Trad 7	1.1.4.4. Worst Error
	★	A Bit of OK	Unknown	1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
	★	A Dog's Roof	Unknown	1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
5.12c	★	Take Da Plunge	Unknown	1.1.4.1. East Face
	★★★	Wicked Gravity	Sport 75ft	1.1.4.2. Top
5.12		Pygmy Village	Unknown	1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
	★★	Razor's Edge	Unknown	1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard
		Walking on Mars	Unknown	1.1.5. Overview
5.12d	★	Isaiah 2:21	Unknown	1.1.4.2. Top
		Elephant's Eliminate	Unknown	1.1.4.5. West Side
5.13a	★★★	Keeper of the Flame	Unknown	1.1.4.1. East Face
5.13c	★★★	The Regular North Face Route via The Excellent Adventure	Unknown	1.1.2.1. North Face
	★★★	Whipchord	Unknown	1.1.5. Overview
5.13d		Book of Hate	Trad 150ft	1.1.4.1. East Face