Ayuda

South Lower Merced Canyon Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Josh Mackenzie Barbara Zangerl rick mark.lutterman Miguel Madero Fraser

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. South Lower Merced Canyon

Summary:
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Estacionalidad

125 routes in Area

Mayormente Escalada en roca

Lat / Long: 37.715160, -119.702239

restricciones

As of 27/06/22:

-"A reservation will be required to drive into or through Yosemite National Park from May 20 through September 30, 2022, for those driving into the park between 6 am and 4 pm." (note this may occur through a in-park camping or accomodation permit or wilderness/bigwall permit), a permit is NOT required if entering the park outside of these hours. (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/reservations.htm )

-"As of May 2021, a wilderness permit is required for all overnight big wall climbs. During this pilot, wilderness permits for climbers are free and there are no quotas or limits on the number of permits available." (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingpermits.htm ). See previous link for details on picking up this permit.

heredado de Yosemite National Park

1.1. Turtleback Dome

Summary:
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Estacionalidad

85 routes in Area

Escalada en roca, Escalada clásica y otros estilos

Lat / Long: 37.715947, -119.704787

1.1.1. Super Nova Area

Summary:

3 routes in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Super Nova 5.11a Desconocido
2 Dime Bag 5.10c Desconocido
3 Crack the Whip 5.11b Desconocido

1.1.2. The Rostrum

Summary:

24 routes in Area

Escalada en roca, Escalada clásica y Escalada artificial

Lat / Long: 37.718790, -119.708026

1.1.2.1. North Face
Summary:

6 routes in Area

Escalada en roca, Escalada clásica y Escalada artificial
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Regular North Face Route 5.11c Clásica 900ft, 8
2 The Regular North Face Route via The Excellent Adventure 5.13c Desconocido
3 Mad Pilot 5.11b A1 Artificial
4 Uprising 5.11b Desconocido
5 Alien / Alien Roof 5.12b Clásica 800ft, 8
6 Blind Faith 5.11d Desconocido
1.1.2.2. West Base
Summary:

7 routes in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kauk-ulator 5.11c Desconocido
2 Battle-Ship 5.10 Desconocido
3 The West Base Route 5.10c Desconocido
4 The Notch Route 5.4 Desconocido
5 Loyd's Return Trip 5.9 Desconocido
6 Static Cling 5.10a Desconocido
7 Le Bachar 5.11b Desconocido
1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
Summary:

11 routes in Area

Escalada en roca y Escalada clásica
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Breast Fest 5.10c Desconocido
2 Alamo 5.11a Desconocido
3 Pygmy Village 5.12 Desconocido
4 Jungle Book 5.10a Clásica
5 Loyd's Lolly Pop 5.9 Desconocido
6 Concrete Jungle (Poodle Bites) 5.10d Clásica
7 Minor Kinda Unit 5.9 Clásica
8 Flight Attendant 5.10c Clásica
9 Dancing in the Dark 5.11c Desconocido
10 The Viper 5.11c Desconocido
11 Paddy Melt 5.10b Desconocido

1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard

Summary:

6 routes in Area

Escalada en roca y Escalada artificial
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Razor's Edge 5.12 Desconocido
2 Battlescar 5.11d A1 Artificial
3 Slit Your Tires 5.11d A1 Artificial
4 Pet Semetary 5.11b Desconocido
5 Eagle 5.10a Desconocido
6 The Elephant Guy 5.10 Desconocido

1.1.4. Elephant Rock

Summary:

41 routes in Area

Escalada en roca, Escalada deportiva y otros estilos
1.1.4.1. East Face
Summary:

8 routes in Area

Escalada en roca, Escalada clásica y Escalada deportiva
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Book of Hate

A fantastic dihedral.

5.13d Clásica 150ft
2 Take Da Plunge 5.12c Desconocido
3 Candy-O 5.11d Desconocido
4 Left Guru Crack 5.10c Clásica
5 Right Guru Crack 5.10a Clásica
6 Elephant Talk 5.11b Deportiva
7 Killing Yourself to Live 5.12a Desconocido
8 Keeper of the Flame 5.13a Desconocido
1.1.4.2. Top
Summary:

12 routes in Area

Escalada en roca y Escalada deportiva
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fly Swatter 5.12a Desconocido
2 Isaiah 2:21 5.12d Desconocido
3 Sky 5.11c Desconocido
4 Hocus Pocus 5.11d Desconocido
5 Elephantiasis 5.10d R Desconocido
6 Pink Elephant 5.9 Desconocido
7 Crack of Destiny 5.9 Desconocido
8 The Hundredth Monkey

When looking out from the top of the semi-detached pillar, The Hundredth Monkey is on the right side.

5.11b Deportiva 75ft
9 Fun Terminal

This route and the following 2 start from the same rap in belay stance. This is the left-most of the 3.

PA: Dimitri Barton

5.12a Deportiva 75ft
10 Wicked Gravity

The middle line. Steep and brilliant.

PA: Dimitri Barton

5.12c Deportiva 75ft
11 Bucket Brigade

The right hand line. Exciting climbing and great exposure up the right hand Arete

PA: Dimitri Barton-Roy McClenahan

5.11d Deportiva 75ft
12 Elephant Malt 5.9 R Desconocido
1.1.4.3. East Side
Summary:

6 routes in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Reality Check 5.10c Desconocido
2 Plumb Line 5.10d Desconocido
3 Trundling Juan 5.10b Desconocido
4 Straight Error 5.10c Desconocido
5 Real Error 5.7 Desconocido
6 Foaming at the Crotch 5.10a Desconocido
1.1.4.4. Worst Error
Summary:

5 routes in Area

Escalada en roca, Escalada clásica y Escalada artificial
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lost Error 5.10a Desconocido
2 Crashline 5.11b Desconocido
3 Worst Error, Left 5.9 Desconocido
4 Hotline 5.12b Clásica 7
5 Fatal Mistake 5.11a A1 Artificial 2
1.1.4.5. West Side
Summary:

8 routes in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pink Dream 5.10a Desconocido
2 Nightmare Continuation 5.11d Desconocido
3 Right Side Route 5.10a Desconocido
4 Crack of Doom 5.10a Desconocido
5 Hairline 5.11b Desconocido
6 Moongerms 5.12a Desconocido
7 Crack of Deliverance 5.9 Desconocido
8 Elephant's Eliminate 5.12d Desconocido
1.1.4.6. Elephant Rock Boulders
Summary:

2 routes in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Monster Boulder 5.11a Desconocido
2 Jaws 5.12a Desconocido

1.1.5. Overview

Summary:

11 routes in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Spinal Tap 5.11b Desconocido
2 Like a Hurricane 5.11a Desconocido
3 Digital Delight 5.12a Desconocido
4 Bone Yard 5.10b Desconocido
5 Emotional Wreckage 5.11b Desconocido
6 Walking on Mars 5.12 Desconocido
7 Inch-and-a-Quarter Blues 5.11a Desconocido
8 Gorilla Grip 5.11c Desconocido
9 Bridwell Corner 5.9 Desconocido
10 Whipchord 5.13c Desconocido
11 Country Corner 5.9 Desconocido

1.2. Discovery View

Summary:

1 route in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Overdrive 5.11a Desconocido

1.3. Wawona Tunnel, Eastern Vent

Summary:

1 route in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pump Dummy 5.11d Desconocido

1.4. Flagman Buttress

Summary:

2 routes in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scrub Scouts 5.10c Desconocido
2 Flagman 5.11a Desconocido

1.5. Pulpit Rock

Summary:
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Estacionalidad

14 routes in Area

Mayormente Escalada en roca

1.5.1. Southeast Face

Summary:

6 routes in Area

Mayormente Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Notch Route 5.10b Desconocido
2 East Face 5.10c Desconocido
3 Tree Route 5.9 Clásica
4 Improbable Traverse 5.7 Desconocido
5 Original Sin 5.10c Desconocido
6 Pulpit Pooper 5.10b Desconocido

1.5.2. Northwest Face

Summary:

5 routes in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sky Pilot 5.10c Desconocido
2 The Sermon 5.10b Desconocido
3 Waste of Time 5.10c Desconocido
4 Magilla Gorilla 5.11b Desconocido
5 Gorilla Cookies 5.10d Desconocido

1.5.3. High Pressure Cliff

Summary:

3 routes in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 High Pressure 5.11b Desconocido
2 Open Trench 5.10a Desconocido
3 Lost of Venus 5.7 Desconocido

1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End

Summary:

8 routes in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Dog's Roof 5.12b Desconocido
2 A Bit of OK 5.12b Desconocido
3 Walk On By 5.10a Desconocido
4 Your Pizza Is Ready 5.9 Desconocido
5 Eat at Degnan's 5.9 Desconocido
6 Pohono The Barbarian 5.10a Desconocido
7 Landshark 5.12a Desconocido
8 Dancin' Days 5.11c Desconocido

1.7. Wawona Tunnel, West

Summary:

2 routes in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 I Don't Know 5.10a Desconocido
2 I Don't Remember 5.9 Desconocido

1.8. Cream Area

Summary:

6 routes in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cream 5.11a Desconocido
2 Jam Session 5.10b Desconocido
3 Cartwheel 5.10a Desconocido
4 Monkey Do 5.10c Desconocido
5 Energy Crisis 5.11d Desconocido
6 Shiver-Me-Timbers 5.8 Desconocido

1.9. The Blowhole

Summary:

6 routes in Area

Todo Escalada en roca
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Thar She Blows 5.11a Desconocido
2 Honk If Your Horny 5.10c Desconocido
3 Wind Tunnel 5.10b Desconocido
4 The Fledgling 5.10a Desconocido
5 Fire in the Hole 5.10b Desconocido
6 Variation 5.10a Desconocido

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5.4 The Notch Route Desconocido 1.1.2.2. West Base
5.7 Real Error Desconocido 1.1.4.3. East Side
Improbable Traverse Desconocido 1.5.1. Southeast Face
Lost of Venus Desconocido 1.5.3. High Pressure Cliff
5.8 Shiver-Me-Timbers Desconocido 1.8. Cream Area
5.9 Loyd's Return Trip Desconocido 1.1.2.2. West Base
Loyd's Lolly Pop Desconocido 1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
Minor Kinda Unit Clásica 1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
Crack of Destiny Desconocido 1.1.4.2. Top
Pink Elephant Desconocido 1.1.4.2. Top
Worst Error, Left Desconocido 1.1.4.4. Worst Error
Crack of Deliverance Desconocido 1.1.4.5. West Side
Bridwell Corner Desconocido 1.1.5. Overview
Country Corner Desconocido 1.1.5. Overview
Tree Route Clásica 1.5.1. Southeast Face
Eat at Degnan's Desconocido 1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
Your Pizza Is Ready Desconocido 1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
I Don't Remember Desconocido 1.7. Wawona Tunnel, West
5.9 R Elephant Malt Desconocido 1.1.4.2. Top
5.10a Static Cling Desconocido 1.1.2.2. West Base
Jungle Book Clásica 1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
Eagle Desconocido 1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard
Right Guru Crack Clásica 1.1.4.1. East Face
Foaming at the Crotch Desconocido 1.1.4.3. East Side
Lost Error Desconocido 1.1.4.4. Worst Error
Crack of Doom Desconocido 1.1.4.5. West Side
Pink Dream Desconocido 1.1.4.5. West Side
Right Side Route Desconocido 1.1.4.5. West Side
Open Trench Desconocido 1.5.3. High Pressure Cliff
Pohono The Barbarian Desconocido 1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
Walk On By Desconocido 1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
I Don't Know Desconocido 1.7. Wawona Tunnel, West
Cartwheel Desconocido 1.8. Cream Area
The Fledgling Desconocido 1.9. The Blowhole
Variation Desconocido 1.9. The Blowhole
5.10b Paddy Melt Desconocido 1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
Trundling Juan Desconocido 1.1.4.3. East Side
Bone Yard Desconocido 1.1.5. Overview
Notch Route Desconocido 1.5.1. Southeast Face
Pulpit Pooper Desconocido 1.5.1. Southeast Face
The Sermon Desconocido 1.5.2. Northwest Face
Jam Session Desconocido 1.8. Cream Area
Fire in the Hole Desconocido 1.9. The Blowhole
Wind Tunnel Desconocido 1.9. The Blowhole
5.10c Dime Bag Desconocido 1.1.1. Super Nova Area
The West Base Route Desconocido 1.1.2.2. West Base
Breast Fest Desconocido 1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
Flight Attendant Clásica 1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
Left Guru Crack Clásica 1.1.4.1. East Face
Reality Check Desconocido 1.1.4.3. East Side
Straight Error Desconocido 1.1.4.3. East Side
Scrub Scouts Desconocido 1.4. Flagman Buttress
East Face Desconocido 1.5.1. Southeast Face
Original Sin Desconocido 1.5.1. Southeast Face
Sky Pilot Desconocido 1.5.2. Northwest Face
Waste of Time Desconocido 1.5.2. Northwest Face
Monkey Do Desconocido 1.8. Cream Area
Honk If Your Horny Desconocido 1.9. The Blowhole
5.10 Battle-Ship Desconocido 1.1.2.2. West Base
The Elephant Guy Desconocido 1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard
5.10d Concrete Jungle (Poodle Bites) Clásica 1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
Plumb Line Desconocido 1.1.4.3. East Side
Gorilla Cookies Desconocido 1.5.2. Northwest Face
5.10d R Elephantiasis Desconocido 1.1.4.2. Top
5.11a Super Nova Desconocido 1.1.1. Super Nova Area
Alamo Desconocido 1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
Monster Boulder Desconocido 1.1.4.6. Elephant Rock Boulders
Inch-and-a-Quarter Blues Desconocido 1.1.5. Overview
Like a Hurricane Desconocido 1.1.5. Overview
Overdrive Desconocido 1.2. Discovery View
Flagman Desconocido 1.4. Flagman Buttress
Cream Desconocido 1.8. Cream Area
Thar She Blows Desconocido 1.9. The Blowhole
5.11a A1 Fatal Mistake Artificial 2 1.1.4.4. Worst Error
5.11b Crack the Whip Desconocido 1.1.1. Super Nova Area
Uprising Desconocido 1.1.2.1. North Face
Le Bachar Desconocido 1.1.2.2. West Base
Pet Semetary Desconocido 1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard
Elephant Talk Deportiva 1.1.4.1. East Face
The Hundredth Monkey Deportiva 75ft 1.1.4.2. Top
Crashline Desconocido 1.1.4.4. Worst Error
Hairline Desconocido 1.1.4.5. West Side
Emotional Wreckage Desconocido 1.1.5. Overview
Spinal Tap Desconocido 1.1.5. Overview
Magilla Gorilla Desconocido 1.5.2. Northwest Face
High Pressure Desconocido 1.5.3. High Pressure Cliff
5.11b A1 Mad Pilot Artificial 1.1.2.1. North Face
5.11c The Regular North Face Route Clásica 900ft, 8 1.1.2.1. North Face
Kauk-ulator Desconocido 1.1.2.2. West Base
Dancing in the Dark Desconocido 1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
The Viper Desconocido 1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
Sky Desconocido 1.1.4.2. Top
Gorilla Grip Desconocido 1.1.5. Overview
Dancin' Days Desconocido 1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
5.11d Blind Faith Desconocido 1.1.2.1. North Face
Candy-O Desconocido 1.1.4.1. East Face
Bucket Brigade Deportiva 75ft 1.1.4.2. Top
Hocus Pocus Desconocido 1.1.4.2. Top
Nightmare Continuation Desconocido 1.1.4.5. West Side
Pump Dummy Desconocido 1.3. Wawona Tunnel, Eastern Vent
Energy Crisis Desconocido 1.8. Cream Area
5.11d A1 Battlescar Artificial 1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard
Slit Your Tires Artificial 1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard
5.12a Killing Yourself to Live Desconocido 1.1.4.1. East Face
Fly Swatter Desconocido 1.1.4.2. Top
Fun Terminal Deportiva 75ft 1.1.4.2. Top
Moongerms Desconocido 1.1.4.5. West Side
Jaws Desconocido 1.1.4.6. Elephant Rock Boulders
Digital Delight Desconocido 1.1.5. Overview
Landshark Desconocido 1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
5.12b Alien Clásica 800ft, 8 1.1.2.1. North Face
Hotline Clásica 7 1.1.4.4. Worst Error
A Bit of OK Desconocido 1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
A Dog's Roof Desconocido 1.6. Wawona Tunnel, West End
5.12c Take Da Plunge Desconocido 1.1.4.1. East Face
Wicked Gravity Deportiva 75ft 1.1.4.2. Top
5.12 Pygmy Village Desconocido 1.1.2.3. Jungle Gym
Razor's Edge Desconocido 1.1.3. Elephant's Graveyard
Walking on Mars Desconocido 1.1.5. Overview
5.12d Isaiah 2:21 Desconocido 1.1.4.2. Top
Elephant's Eliminate Desconocido 1.1.4.5. West Side
5.13a Keeper of the Flame Desconocido 1.1.4.1. East Face
5.13c The Regular North Face Route via The Excellent Adventure Desconocido 1.1.2.1. North Face
Whipchord Desconocido 1.1.5. Overview
5.13d Book of Hate Clásica 150ft 1.1.4.1. East Face
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