Routes as trad in Africa

Long approach scramble from Eastern Side. Chimneys and squeeze through cracks. Mandatory 10m abseil to get to the start of the climb.

Hard- A steep face to the right of Couloir. 5.9

The best route at Secret Valley.

Climb the couloir to a steep crescendo finish. 5.7 +.

The stepped buttress to the left of Couloir . 5.9

The gully/corner to the left of Escalator. 5.3

A nice, sustained face climb to the left of Easy Up. 5.7 Reportedly a frog was first observed climbing this route, hence the name.

Just left of Frog I, pull up the steep wall and finish. 5.8

The short face climb on the boulder just below the climbs described above. This is the same outcrop where the kids gather to watch the climbing. You need a very large sling to set up an anchor over the top of the boulder.

Rating unknown 5.8+ is a guess.

To reach this pleasant 5.5 layback corner, scramble down to the right (facing outward).

This route is approached by heading back down to the left (facing outward). A short steep overhanging face 5.8+ (Belayer should be placed 20 feet below the anchor to prevent a swinging fall.)

This route is approached by heading back down to the left (facing outward). The obvious crack on the face of the outcrop. 5.4

This route is approached by heading back down to the left (facing outward). A similar route to the right of Doug’s Delight 5.4

This route is approached by heading back down to the left (facing outward). Perhaps the nicest route on this outcrop follows the unprotected friction slab next to Doug’s Delight. 5.7

This route is located on a separate outcrop near Paul’s Puzzle. A short, strenuous layback on perfect rock. 5.8 A direct start (avoiding the boulders) would be considerably harder.

History: This climb was reportedly used as a training exercise by the Rwanda military in the pre-genocide period, and old cables and pitons are much in evidence. The line described above was climbed on May 23, 2004 by Doug Teschner, Erin Shutes, and Sive Bresnihan. This was apparently the first ascent in many years and attracted a large crowd of up to 1000 local observers.

This sweet climb is one of the best in Rwanda! It generally follows the obvious, right-of-center crack (mostly off-width) which runs the full height of the cliff. Good rock (with many climber friendly nubbins), sustained climbing, and exciting run outs make for a great outing. A classic trad route with route finding challenges, lichen, etc. Don’t miss it!

1. Overcome vegetation to reach the crack proper. Climb the crack and face to its right, past three pitons (getting past the third is the route’s 5.6+ crux) followed by a thought-provoking 5.5 run out (80 foot ground fall potential) up the face to the right of the crack. Finally protection! Belay at a small grassy stance with two pitons for the anchor. 100 feet.

2. Nice, but easy climbing to the left of the crack, then unpleasant bushwhacking to a nice stance with bolts and a cable. 50 feet , 5.4

3. Up face above, eventually crossing the crack back to the left, then later back right to a semi-hanging belay with three pitons. 90 feet, 5.6

4. Surmount the bulge above, then follow the off width crack up a thin face to a cable around a chockstone and (higher) a cable and bolts hidden inside the wide crack. 60 feet 5.5R

5. Up the crack and face to the right with some exciting unprotected friction moves to a hidden piton on the left. Continue past another pin, then traverse left across orange lichen to a short inside corner leading to a grassy stance below a blocky outcrop. (Note: spectator children may boldly descend to this point from the top.) 110 feet, 5.6 R

6. Climb the corner and face above to the top. 50 feet, 5.5 R

Quickly viewing the cliff from the road (before you are surrounded by children), you will observe a high point of land with eucalyptus trees at the center of the cliff base. Nkuli Dancing starts 2/3 of the way (100 feet) down to the right from this apex, directly below an old bolt.

1. Up the nice slab past three old bolts to a pleasant stance with three bolts. 100 feet, 5.4 **

2. Climb the slab above (with one bolt to the left) toward a grassy ledge. Pass the grass at its right edge and traverse back left to an awkward hanging belay with 2 bolts. (Note: expect some kids to join you at this ledge by boldly traversing across the face from the right.) 60 feet, 5.4

3. This is the crux pitch if you follow the standard route without the variations described below. Exposed traverse left, crossing a large inside corner, then straight up a face passing one bolt before a run out. Eventually step right over a grassy ribbon to an awkward standing belay with two pins. 100 feet, 5.5 R

4. Up slabs to the top. 90 feet, 5.5 R

Alternatives to the first pitch (ending at the same belay stance as pitch one):

1a. Start a little lower to the right (facing the cliff) and join the regular route part way up. Nice climbing, but a bit run out. 100 feet, 5.5 R **

1b. Start closer to the apex and follow a rising traverse (with crack) right to join the regular route ¾ of the way up. 110 feet, 5.5

3a. Head right to a thin move past a pin/bolt, then continue right to a grassy ledge with little for an anchor. 100 feet, 5.7

4a. Continue right without protection to the top. 90 feet, 5.5 R

3b. Step slightly left then climb unprotected rock just right of the obvious inside corner. Unprotected moves right lead to a curved arch and a semi-hanging nut belay. 60 feet, 5.5 R

4b. Step left and up nice white rock to a dubious small friend placement, then sustained, thought provoking climbing without protection to the top. 60 feet, 5.7 X

This route is in the left-hand face of the 'Verooka Palooka' open book. Start 2m to the left of the blocks at the base of the wall. Pull up to the rail then follow the laybacks up the obvious break to a peg. Climb past this and exit to the left.

Start as for 'Planet Digit' and climb straight up the face past the bolt.

Start immediately to the left of the blocks at the base of the wall. Follow the obvious break above, finishing up the wall past the bolt.

Retro-bolted in 2007.

Start on the blocks in the 'Verooka Palooka' corner, just to the right of 'Moon on Ice', and immediately to the left of a small tree. Climb straight up to the top past two bolts.

Start 2m to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' corner. Climb straight up the face pulling through the roof above.

Start 4m to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' corner. Climb up to a small ledge with a bush and pull through the roof above.

From the bottom of 'Verooka Palooka', traverse easily along the ledge on the right-hand face. From near the end of the ledge, climb straight up the face.

Start at the base of the roofs just around the corner to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' open book. Follow the line of bolts. The top anchors can be easily cleaned from the top.

The next 4 routes up to 'Bandaloop' are all in the same 'Clockworks' open book which is located about 40 m to the right of 'Verooka Palooka'.

Retro-bolted in 2004.

About 40m to the right of 'Verooka Palooka' there is another large open book with blocky chimney up the corner. The left-hand face of this open book is a clean, orange/grey wall with a fig tree on a ledge near the top. Start near the middle of the left-hand face by a 1m high, semi-detached block. Climb the crack and then tend left up the face avoiding the broken rock on the right. Exit just to the right of the tree.

Retro-bolted in 2008.

Start about 1m to the left of 'Clockworks' and about 4m to the right of the chimney in the corner. Climb the obvious blocky break and then go diagonally to the right up the good face to finish just to the right of a fig tree.

It seems that this route is just an easier variation of 'Clockworks'.

This line takes the left-hand side of the wall to the right of 'Clockworks' and 'Doggone'. Start below the peg and climb straight up the face, exiting slightly to the right.

Retro-bolted in 2008.

Start just to the right of Maniacal Expertise and climb the face past a block which appears to be loose.

Retro-bolted in 2008.

Start just around the corner to the right of 'Bandaloop'. Climb the arête on the left of the small face. A short, steep section can be avoided by moving to the right, then up and back left onto the arête. The protection is good. There is an odd mix of bolts with no hangers, bolts with hangers, natural gear and chains.

One day ‘someone’ will fix it. Until then, treat it as an adventure.

Climb up the centre of the face to the left of 'Big Mamma' and pull through the middle of the roof. Finish anywhere up the face above. A great move through the roof.

Start in the large open book recess immediately to the left of 'Dixie' and the 'Fig Tree amphitheatre'. Climb up the back of the open book to a roof at 5m. Pull through on the right (awkward) and then up more easily. Step to the right near the top to avoid a loose block.

Start below a low roof on the wall to the right of 'Big Mamma'. Pull through this roof below the small tree and finish up the break.

(People who burden us with route names like this probably need to visit a psychologist.)

Start under a small roof formed by a block about 3m up and about 4m to the left of 'Cool Jewelled Moon'. Climb left past the roof and then up the orange and black face above.

Start at a perfect, rectangular, undercling pocket about 5m to the left of the 'Dixie' corner. Crank up past a very old peg to a roof. Pull through the centre of the roof and continue up the face above.

Note: Another 'sandbag'. It was originally graded at 15. It may even be an 18. The original RD conveniently forgot to mention that there is virtually no gear. If you want to lead this excellent line, you might as well solo it. Until the line is bolted, top-roping is definitely the best option.

From grade 8 fully using the block behind you, to 18 if you don't use it at all - or anything in between depnding on the extent.

Mentioned by name in Carl's write-up, but no further details were recorded.

A direct start to P1 (using the roof crack) brings the grade up to 25 (FA: C. Martinengo, 2007)

1. [13] 45m

   After an awkward take-off climb up the broken face.

2. [14] 40m

   Continue up the recess which is slightly left of the corner. Continue up to the base of an easy recess.

3. [12] 25m

   Climb up the recess to a ledge. Note: the first three pitches are pretty straightforward and obvious and leads you to the base of an enticing looking jam crack in grey rock. DO NOT climb this, but move a long way left as per next pitch.

4. [13] 40m

   Traverse left around the corner. Step across a gap and then walk left to the base of an easy looking recess.

5. [13] 30m

   Move up the recess and then over broken ground to a ledge. Walk right and scramble to the top of a pinnacle.

6. [17] 45m

   Tiles pitch - Climb right across a delicate slab, then up a corner to a small ledge. Climb up 3m, followed by a traverse to the left under a small overhang. Continue up a steep bulge (past an old peg) to a narrow ledge, then up slightly left and do a series of moves back up diagonally right to a stance. The 'Smith-Rutowitz Variation' to the original 'Tiles' pitch can be climbed as follows: 6a. 12 (20m) Walk left and climb the crack in a recessed corner to the stance. 6b. 16 (40m) Climb up on the right to the overhang above. Traverse right with hands at the level of a doubtful block to a ledge (full use of the block reduces the grade to 14). From the top of the 'Tiles' pitch or the 'S-R Variation' walk right along the ledge and scramble up between the wall and a distinct pinnacle.

7. [18] 20m

   From the top of the pinnacle perform an awkward take-off and pull-up. Move right and reach up high from a low lay-away hold. A piton can be found here (this section is about as hard as the 'normal route' gets). Then traverse 3m left and up to a rib/face to a stance (the 'Suitcase Stance').

8. [20] 10m

   From the stance descend a meter or so, then traverse right and up into a crack. Climb the crack to a semi-loose block and climb out on the left and up to a sloping stance. Note: the original line took the short, obvious, but off-balance and strenuous layback directly above the stance ( good cams/wires, climbing at grade 20). A slot hidden beyond the top of the layback helps one to heave up to a sloping stance.

9. [16] 30m

   From the stance, step up and left to avoid a small overhang. Pull up a short recess. Up 4m, then follow an inconspicuous traverse right for 5m. Climb the steep slab on the right, then move left and climb a crack to a stance below a Y-shaped crack.

10. [15] 45m

    After an awkward take-off climb the Y-shaped crack to a large platform. Move right, up an undercut flake, and then left to an edge. Climb easy ground to another large platform.

11. [15] 45m

    Above and to the right is a big corner/recess, capped by an overhang. That is where you want to be. Traverse right and then angle delicately across the white slab to enter the recess about 15m above the level of the ledge. Move up the recess until it is possible to traverse right (before a seemingly more obvious traverse line), exiting around the corner to a stance on a large ledge.

12. [12] 20m

    Walk right for a short distance and choose the easiest line up a very pleasant yellow face to a narrow ledge. Note: an alternative line not as far right provides delightful climbing at about grade 16.

13. [16] 30m

    Walk left along the ledge for 10m to its left-hand end. There is a shallow recess capped by a roof up and left. Don't be intimidated - go up and left around the corner. Ascend the recess for about 3m then step left onto a corner. Traverse left under the roof and up to a small ledge. Climb up and out right on a water-worn face to a stance. You are at the top of the route.