Routes as trad in South America

Great mixed multi pitch 5 minutes from the hut. All belays well bolted and double as abseil decent. Single 60m rope is fine. The first pitch starts approx 10m left of large boulder and can be climbed two ways; a grade 5 with some really cool crack climbing or a meandering 4 arriving at double ring bots. Second pitch is the hardest, graded 5+. From second belay head up crack to ledge. Traverse right 12 meters to double ring bolts to finish the climb - if you go left, it's a 6b. Optional 4th pitch (last pitch of Sifuentes-Monti), grade 5 30m. Can rap off the front via three 30m raps or also use ring bolt behind climb. This decent requires short rap to ledge, traverse left to double ring bolts

One of the most popular routes at Frey. Starts on the right side of the Agua Frey near the back of the pinnacle. 1. 35m (5b) Major corner to bolted anchor on small ledge 2. 15m (5c) Splitter diagonal handcrack to anchor on summit.

Can be aided at 6b+ C1 or the hard pitch can be skipped by moving left onto Sifuentes-Weber. High quality, varied climbing!

20 pitches or so with 2 pitches of 5.11 or more if you end up off route

Mostly done on bolts, but cams and stoppers needed for the first 20m of the first pitch (small to medium cams or medium to large stoppers). It finishes at the anchors of the 5th pitch of "Secundo Costa Neto" and from there you can reach the summit in another 3 pitches (making it a total of 270m). You can combine pitches 2, 3 and 4 into 2 pitches.

The start is at a crack a just left of the start of the famous "Via dos Italianos" route.

1. Pitch 1: 40m 1st pitch has a short crack at the beginning, then diagonal right to the belay just up and left from the Italianos belay.

2. Pitch 2: 30m Trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses

3. Pitch 3: 30m Trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses

4. Pitch 4: 25m

One of the nicest climbs on the Sugar Loaf!

Some fairly long run-outs between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to help with rope drag. Some of the belays on this route are off one bolt.

The most famous route on Pao de Acucar and a mega classic for Rio. It's often done in two or three pitches and doesn't go all the way to the top. It's usually completed by connecting to other routes along the "West face", going all the way to the summit. This technical face and slab climb is directly under the cable car. The most common way is connecting with Cavalo Louco using either the "Variante da Italianos para o Cavalo Louco", or the "Variante Darcy Ribeiro" and then linking with Secundo Costa Neto. Either way, from base to summit is approximately 270m of fairly sustained climbing.

1. Pitch 1, 35m; Slab climbing through to the technical face crux near belay

2. Pitch 2, 43m; A sustained slab and face.

3. Pitch 3, 20m, Continue upwards to belay at shared anchor with CEPI or continue to make use of your full rope length.

Take about 14 draws and a few runners. This routes takes around 3-6 hours to climb to the summit.

There is a new finish on a bolted line aside the ferrata - "CEPI em Livre".

Up easy crack with decent gear, followed by a couple of steep moves through a small dihedral.

Climb left curving crack to corner and easier ground until you tackle the crack at the roof below the anchors.

Climb fun trench to blocky overhand section. Chains at end of first pitch at about 20 metres.

Scrambly 5.5 until the first bolt for about 6-8 meters. Pretty fun bouldery moves after that. And much easier run out again until the station. Very sandbagged as noted by other ascentionists.

Start up short right leaning crack before gaining the left leaning remainder of the route through deceptively overhanging and blocky terrain at top of the first pitch and anchors (30m).