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La Nueva Escuelita Guide

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 126
  • Aka: River School Wall

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Richard Pattison Chalten Mountain Guides Tom Alejandro El Nahue Climb Nicholas Salzano Karsten Fuchs jpmg Danny Waugh

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Table of contents

1. La Nueva Escuelita 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -49.325050, -72.883631

description

A small sector right on the private road with easier routes.

approach

From main street, walk down "Trevisan" past Chalten Suites and Lunajuim Hotel to cross the river on wodden bridge to Pared de los Condores climbing area. Turn left through gate (sometimes locked) and follow the road for 150 metres. The crag is immediately adjacent to the road on a small dirt terrace. The Hosteria Fitz Roy Inn is directly opposite on the other side of the river.

descent notes

All routes have lower offs

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Slab left of main wall 1

16m up and left of fence post, diagonal staircase up and right past 6 bolts to shared lower-off.

Awkward to abseil and clean the route as it wanders ~8m sideways, easiest for 2nd to top-rope and clean.

4+ Sport 22m, 6
2 Slab left of main wall 2

Start 8m up and left from fence post at left end of main wall. 7 bolts to shared lower-off, crux is bolt 6 - 7.

5 Sport 22m, 7
3 top rope problem 1

Just to the left of the fence posts at overhung corner, only anchor bolts for TR

Top rope 18m
4 Main Wall Bolted 1

Start at fence post at left end of main wall. Up past 10 bolts. Crux is getting past the 9th bolt. Previously "Top Rope Problem 2".

Set: Leonardo Viamonte

6a Sport 22m, 10
5 Main Wall Bolted 2

3m right of fence post (at left end of main wall), starting at a triangular ledge at head height. Up past 9 bolts to lower-offs.

Set: Manuel Quiroga & Leonardo Viamonte

6a Sport 22m, 9
6 Main Wall Bolted 3

Start 6m right of fence post (at left end of main wall), just right of low roof at wide crack/chimney. Chimney up to 2nd bolt, crux through overlap to 3rd bolt, then more easily to anchors. Middle-third is sandy with broken rock.

6a+ Sport 22m, 9
7 Main Wall Bolted 4

8m right of fence post (at left end of main wall). Start at dihedral, up and out to 2nd bolt on face, easy slabbing until finish above scoop (protected by 9th bolt).

6a Sport 20m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Main Wall Bolted 5

Diagonal right crack and ramp. Start 5m right of "Main Wall Bolted 4" past bush and crack/groove. Crux is between first 2 bolts with side clings either side. Awkward to clean the route as it wanders ~6m right to shared lower-offs.

Set: Roberto Treu

6a Sport 15m, 6
9 Main Wall Bolted 6

Start at seam into right leaning flake. Option to lower-off at ~9m, or continue to shared lower-offs 2 bolts higher. 2m of dirt erosion at cliff base has made the start harder and put the first bolt about 5m above the ground with tricky moves.

Set: Roberto Treu

6b Sport 12m, 6
10 Main Wall Bolted 7

At far right of main wall, up slightly overhung hand and finger crack, then left-ish to shared lower-offs.Probably harder start now given the 2m of dirt erosion at cliff base. First bolt is ~5m up. Black Diamond 0.5 or 0.75 cam useful to protect the heinous start.

Set: Roberto Treu

6a+ Sport 13m, 5
11 Slab right of main wall 1

Starts just to right of main wall up on 1m dirt ledge. Start up right facing corner past 2 bolts on left wall, then transition to right face past 2 bolts to shared lower-off.

4 Sport 15m, 4
12 Slab right of main wall 2

Right of main wall up on 1m dirt ledge. Climb the middle of slab past 6 bolts. Scramble 4m to large ledge and first bolt (redundant) at knee height, then nice side cling moves from bolt 2 to 3. Easy to top.

4+ Sport 16m, 6

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
4 Slab right of main wall 1 Sport 15m, 4
4+ Slab left of main wall 1 Sport 22m, 6
Slab right of main wall 2 Sport 16m, 6
5 Slab left of main wall 2 Sport 22m, 7
6a Main Wall Bolted 1 Sport 22m, 10
Main Wall Bolted 2 Sport 22m, 9
Main Wall Bolted 4 Sport 20m, 9
Main Wall Bolted 5 Sport 15m, 6
6a+ Main Wall Bolted 3 Sport 22m, 9
Main Wall Bolted 7 Sport 13m, 5
6b Main Wall Bolted 6 Sport 12m, 6
? top rope problem 1 Top rope 18m
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