Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 22nd Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 同门山 Twin Gates East Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Smokin' | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Actually used a couple of mono's. Sweet!
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Sun 22nd Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 四方山 Square Mountain Treasure Cave | ||||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★★ 赛安 Seyon (Sai Yan / Seyon) | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
steep! razor sharp edge at bolt 4.
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23 5.11a | ★ Fire Hydrant (Name?) | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got a bit scared about 2 rusty bolts, but was able to place a sling in crack to left to back them up. The roof felt hard, and the upper wall was pumpy on rounded marbly horizontals. A bit dusty, but good climbing.
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5.10b | ★ Losing Face | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unusual climbing. Good value.
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Sat 21st Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
5.11b 5.11d | ★★ Chino Chaco (Pegasus) | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climbing, but a bit short and uninspiring compared too its neibours.
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Fri 20th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ 魔鬼棒 Devil Sticks (Devil Sticks 魔鬼棒) | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good route. Cool sequence to get established on the wall above the roof.
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Wed 18th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
思龙地区 SiLong Crags 思龙山 Riverside | ||||||
5.11c 5.11b | ★★ 躲避小行星 Avoid the Plutoid (Avoid the Plutoid) | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Well named. Pulled of a 'plutoid' next to bolt 3, and almost decked as Ben was pulled up to bolt 1. I must be getting fat. Route still climbable.
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Tue 17th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ 阳朔旅馆 Yangshuo Hotel (Yangshuo Hotel 阳朔旅馆) | 33m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Had to have a crack, after Matt and Pauls awesome onsight and flash. Came of 5m above the 'Hotel' cave on the flash, then ok second shot. Almost pumped out moving left to the rest 5m below the chain.
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5.11c | ★★ 消耗战 Wall of Attrition (The Wall of Attrition) | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another long pumper. Loved the way that the holds near the top (where the angle eases) become small and slopey.
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21 5.10d | ★ 山顶洞人 Cave Man Pitch 1 (Cave Man Pitch 1 山顶洞人) | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Not an ideal warm up. Buddy taping seems to be working.
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23 5.11a | ★★ 山顶洞人 Cave Man Pitch 2 (Cave Man Pitch 2 山顶洞人) | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed P1 and P2 combined. Makes a great long pitch. P2 felt no harder than P1.
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5.10a | ★★ 橘子花香 Tangerine Blossom Fragrance (Jiu Jie Hua Xiang (Tangerine Blossom Fragrance)) | 21m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
With Terry. Tenuous moves moving left onto the arete.
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Sun 15th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance Jeremy's Jiji | ||||||
5.10c 5.10d | ★★ Raw Donkey* | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The climbing isnt brilliant, but the experience is great. Thanks for carrying up the beer Matt!
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Sun 15th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 瑞士墙 Swiss Wall 巧克力墙 Chocolate Side | ||||||
5.11b 5.11c | ★★ 小朋友 Little Homie (Little Homie) | 24m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Somehow managed to technique my way up, with the help of lots of finger tape.
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5.11a | ★★★ 旅游伙伴 The Traveling Alon (The Traveling Alan) | 32m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really, really good climb. Get on it.
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Sun 15th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 瑞士墙 Swiss Wall 奶酪墙 Cheese Side | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Philly Cheese Steak (Philly Cheese Cake) | 34m, 16 | ★ Good | |||
Warming up with Matt. Nice wall in a nice area.
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Sat 14th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★ 甜筒 Vedro (No Name ???) | 12m, 6 | ||||
With Terry.
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5.11a | ★ 斯洛文尼亚 Jeja (Jeja) | 14m, 6 | ||||
Managed to clean up the dog from last week. Sweet.
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Thu 12th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg Fantasy Area | ||||||
17 5.9 | ★★ Absent Friends | 21m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky start.
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Wed 11th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ The Dark Side of the Moon (The Dark Side of the Moon 1st pitch) | 25m | ||||
No mistakes today. Still felt really hard.
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5.12b | ★★★ Proud Sky | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome. 2nd shot today. Tested Matts belay skills on the first shot, by falling while trying to clip the bolt just below the lip. Quite the fall.
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Mon 9th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 大榕树 Banyan Tree | ||||||
5.11b | ★ False Reality Extension (Name? 2pitch 6c) | 38m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Straightforward to half height, then bloody hard crux moves.
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5.11b | ★★ Open Team | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great looking line. Climbs well too. Felt an impossible sandbag as I dogged my way up it, but felt great second shot. Really technical with polished feet.
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5.10b 5.10a | ★★ Beautiful Day | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Happy Hour | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Enjoyable. Tweaked something in my side.
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Sun 8th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
5.10b | ★ New Moon | 25m | ★ Good | |||
The tufa seems like it is going to break, but I remeber thinking that 3 years ago, and its still there....
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Fri 6th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 小雷劈 Entreprise's Crag | ||||||
6b+ 5.11a | ★ Mei Nu (Mei Nv) | 10m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
Climbed this in super poor style. Lots of grovelly tufa humping, that provided mush ammusement.
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6a+ 5.10d | ★ No Spicy | 11m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Worthwhile.
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Fri 6th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
5.10d 5.11a | ★ 马佳 Ma Jia (Ma Jie) | 16m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Much more overhanging than it looks.
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Wed 1st Dec 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg The Northeast Face | ||||||
5.10c 5.10d | ★ Too Much Ecstasy | 22m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
was bitten by wasp at bolt 2... managed to soldier on.
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Tue 30th Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 同门山 Twin Gates East Wall | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Summer School (3) | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is Ta Ma De. Graded 5.11b in 2010 guide.
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5.9 | ★★ Da Pi Gu 大屁股 (Da Pi Gu) | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10c 5.10d | ★★ Blood (Blood pitch 1) | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Struggled on as warm up.... Very hard move for grade
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5.10b 5.10c | ★★ Xin Jiang Black | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climb. Hard for the grade
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Mon 29th Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.11b | ★★★ 圣诞快乐 Merry Christmas (Merry Christmas) | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great positive pockets. Excellent. Did with 1 rest in Nov 2009
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5.11b | ★ 大太阳 Big Sun (The Big Sun) | 17m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Really polished on traverse. Steep fun
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5.11b 5.11c | ★★ 火鸟 Fire Bird (Fire Bird) | 14m, 5 | Average | |||
Is 5.11b in 2010 guide. Had 1 attempt in Nov2009
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Sat 27th Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
太空站地区 Space Buttress Crags 鸡窝渡 Chicken Cave | ||||||
5.10b 5.10d | ★ Clean Jean | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbs the fortress wall for a few moves then up the face.
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5.10a | ★★ Team Sweden | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Felt tough for the grade
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5.10c | ★★ Tufa Rufa | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great fun. Overhanging flake is crux. Nice tufa blobs up high.
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5.10c 5.10b | ★★ Weekend Warriors | 24m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Nice but polished
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Sat 27th Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
5.11c 5.11b | ★ Lepotica (Unamed5.11c) | 20m, 8 | Average | |||
Pretty easy
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5.11a | ★ Muca | 20m, 9 | Average | |||
Found this very hard. Near end of big day.
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Wed 24th Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
思龙地区 SiLong Crags 思龙山 Riverside | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ 蜻蜓 Dragonfly (Dragonfly) | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent. 2nd shot. Also dogged up it to set toprope.
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5.11b | ★★ 多面手 The Everything Guy (The Everything Guy) | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climbing.
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Tue 23rd Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg The Northeast Face | ||||||
5.10c 5.10d | ★★ Poser‘s Lonely Reunion | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had top roped in 2008. Excellent. Pumpy.
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5.9 5.10a | ★★ All the King's Horses | 27m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Had done previously. Nice.
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Tue 23rd Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg Fantasy Area | ||||||
23 5.11b | ★★★ Duck | 24m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ace. Thin exiting the cave, then pump management.
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5.10c 5.10d | ★★★ Wonderful World | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Brilliant route. Excellent line, rock and climbing.
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5.11a 5.10d | Pumpy Brewster (Pump Brewster) | 21m, 8 | Don't Bother | |||
Contrived. Easy for 5.11a
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Mon 22nd Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 酒瓶山 Wine Bottle | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Where's the Jug? (Where's Jug?) | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had led with 2 falls in 2008
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5.10c | ★★ The Helsinki Handsaw Massacre (The Helsinki Handsaw Massaceur) | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Trees low, but great through the tufa and wall above.
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5.11d | ★★ Empty Jug | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had led with 1 fall in 2009.
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Wed 2nd Dec 2009 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg The Northeast Face | ||||||
5.11b 5.11c | ★ Hustler's Roof | 22m, 9 | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Final Decade | 18m, 9 | ||||
Tue 1st Dec 2009 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
5.11b 5.11d | ★★ Chino Chaco (Pegasus) | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10c 5.11a | ★★ Lunar Palace (Line between Emission Control and Proud Sky) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice steep climbing on tufa rock. Ace!
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Tue 1st Dec 2009 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 酒瓶山 Wine Bottle | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ 长城 The Great Wall (The Great Wall) | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd shot
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Mon 30th Nov 2009 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
遇龙河地区 YuLong River 白岩 The White Cliff | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ 菲尼克斯 Phoenix B.V. (Phoenix B.V.) | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome thin single tufa. 1st try today. Some fall potential.
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5.11a | ★★ 湿乎乎 Wet Nelly (Wet Nelly) | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Good value.
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Mon 30th Nov 2009 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
遇龙河地区 YuLong River 蝌蚪山 Baby Frog Buttress | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ 青蛙王子 Frogs Traverse (Frogs Traverse) | 20m, 8 | ||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★★ 滚石 Rolling Stone (Rolling Stone) | 25m, 11 | ||||
Sun 29th Nov 2009 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 岩面线路 Face Route (Face Route) | 28m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crimp tastic.
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Fri 27th Nov 2009 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
太空站地区 Space Buttress Crags 矮山 Low Mountain | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Lazy Days (Lazy Days (TR)) | 24m, 9 | ||||
5.8 | ★ The Footsteps of Our Ancestors | 21m, 6 | ||||
5.10a | ★ Sheriff Fatman 胖警察 (sherrif fatman) | 15m, 6 | ||||
5.10b 5.10c | ★ Ten Thousand | 21m, 8 | ||||
5.11a 5.11b | ★★ Die Another Day | 18m, 7 | ||||
2nd go today. Still felt like a sandbag!!!
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22 5.11a | ★★ The Pig Emperor 猪八戒 (The Pig Emperor) | 20m, 8 | ||||
2nd go. Cool moves on the arete.
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Wed 25th Nov 2009 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg The Northeast Face | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Hanging in the Balance (Unnamed 5.11a) | 22m, 8 | ||||
1st try this year. Sweet route.
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5.11d | ★★ Chuck if Ya want to (Chuck if you want to) | 22m, 9 | ||||
2nd go. Really bouldery move, then endurance at the top.
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5.10a | ★★ Rooster Booster | 31m, 14 | ||||
5.9 5.10a | ★★ All the King's Horses | 27m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 24th Nov 2009 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
★ The Prowl | 17m, 7 | |||||
5.10c 5.10d | ★★ 石狗 Stone Dog (The Stone Dog 石狗) | 24m, 11 | ||||
5.10c 5.10d | ★★ 喜剧演员 The Comedians (The Comedians 喜剧演员) | 26m, 12 | ||||
Mon 23rd Nov 2009 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 酒瓶山 Wine Bottle | ||||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★★ 给绳 Slack (Slack) | 25m, 8 | ||||
5.11c | ★★ 收紧 Tension (Tension) | 25m, 10 | ||||
Wed 10th Sep 2008 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
遇龙河地区 YuLong River 蝌蚪山 Baby Frog Buttress | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Frog March | 17m, 4 | ||||
5.10c | ★★ 青蛙王子 Frogs Traverse (Frogs Traverse) | 20m, 8 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ 皇后驾到 Fruit Flavoured Frogs (Fruit Flavoured Frogs) | 17m, 7 | ||||
5.10b 5.10a | ★ 青蛙柯密特 Kermit (Kermit) | 15m, 5 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ 癞蛤蟆 Toad in the Hole (Toad in the Hole) | 18m, 8 | ||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★★ 滚石 Rolling Stone (Rolling Stone) | 25m, 11 | ||||
19 5.10c | ★★ 傻子 Shazi (Shazi) | 25m, 12 | ||||
Mon 8th Sep 2008 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg West Face | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Handsaw Returns | 27m, 10 | ||||
Sat 6th Sep 2008 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Artemis | 25m, 7 | ||||
5.10b | ★ New Moon | 25m | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Emission Control 1st pitch | 23m | ||||
Easy to miss a key bolt out left at half height...
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5.10b 5.10c | ★★ Luna Nascente 1st pitch | 23m | ||||
Fri 5th Sep 2008 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 同门山 Twin Gates Western Tower | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Penthouse Platforms | 53m, 19 | ★★ Very Good | |||
With aaron. He led P1, i led P2. Great views. Rest day climb. Skin was trashed, had to be careful with sharp holds near top.
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5.10a | ★★ Penthouse Platforms | 53m, 19 | ★★ Very Good | |||
With aaron. He led P1, i led P2. Great views. Rest day climb. Skin was trashed, had to be careful with sharp holds near top.
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Thu 4th Sep 2008 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
太空站地区 Space Buttress Crags 矮山 Low Mountain | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Sheriff Fatman 胖警察 (sherrif fatman) | 15m, 6 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Lazy Days (Lazy Days (TR)) | 24m, 9 | ||||
Tue 2nd Sep 2008 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 拇指峰 Thumb Peak | ||||||
5.10b 5.10d | ★★ Rich Man P1 (Rich Man) | 26m, 7 | ||||
Thank god the gear was one it. Struggled. Another bloody hot day.
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19 | ★ Petes Paparrazi Pizza | 50m | ||||
Climbed P1 only.
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Tue 2nd Sep 2008 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 蝴蝶泉 The Butterfly Spring | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ 3: Name?(up the butterfly) | 20m | ||||
Had to work really hard. Hundreds of other tourists, and an excellent route. Took a rest behind the butterfly.
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5.9 | 2: Name? | |||||
Felt hard. This was the route left of the butterfly.
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Mon 1st Sep 2008 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 酒瓶山 Wine Bottle | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Watered Whine | 18m, 5 | ||||
Dont have exact dates of this trip, late aug early sep.... Had been injured and done no climbing for a fair while, dislocated thumb, or still wrists....cant remember.
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5.9 5.10a | ★★★ 兰蔻奇迹 Miracle of Lankou (Miracle of Lankou) | 25m, 9 |