Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dog Rock | |||||
V0 | ★ Mongrel
Layback and jam the superb crack.. | ||||
V0 | Roadkill
The thin crack. | ||||
V0 | ★ Year of The Dog
Very nice slab climbing. | ||||
V0 | ★ Its a Dogs Life
Easy crack, highball. | ||||
Mt Melville Boulders Summit Boulders | |||||
V0 | ★★ The Lookout Wall, Left
Stand start. Up the vague crack on the left. | 7m | |||
V0 | Frown
Stand start with obvious jug rail and up. | 3m | |||
V0 | Serrated Edge
Stand start. Up with the arete and left face. Very sharp. | 3m | |||
V0 | Another Waste of Skin
Stand with high rail. | 3m | |||
V0 - 1 | So Much Skin
Up the blunt arete. Super sharp. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ A Simple Slabbing
Stand start. Up the left side of the slab with edges and crystals | ||||
V0 | ★ Clean Cut
Sit start. Up and left. | ||||
V0 - 1 | Pete You Madman
Apparently done by Pete Lowe with a rock stack to start (the rock stack has since been cleared away). Can be started by stacking pads to gain the slab. Up the high scoop. FA: Pete Lowe, 1986 | ||||
Mt Melville Boulders Pinnacle Boulder | |||||
V0 - 1 | ★ Montgomery Wick
Stand start and up the rising twin aretes. A great feature and a good one for the mountaineers. | ||||
Mt Melville Boulders The Dark Tower Area | |||||
V0 | ★ Trackside slab
Stand start. High but quite secure slabbing | ||||
V0 | ★ Gun Slinger
Stand start with flat hold on the vague arete. Up and left keeping away from the holds on the right. FA: Jim Nevin | ||||
V0 - 1 | ★ Stone Unturned
Sit start and up with slopey holds. | ||||
V0 - 1 | ★ Any Crystal In A Storm
Stand start where you fancy. Up the slab to the obvious juggy pockets. Fun and a bit high. | ||||
Mt Melville Boulders Rehab boulders | |||||
V0 | ★★ Justin told me
Stand start left hand on arete, up and trend right. Don't die. | ||||
The Silo Boulders | |||||
V0 | ★★ Starboard
Sit start with right hand on the rail and left hand on the jug. | ||||
V0 | ★ Slip the dip
Up the slab right of the arete. Avoid using the rail. | ||||
V0 | ★★ Just keep swimming
Up the slab and arete. | ||||
V0 | ★★ Crack
Sit start, jug on up the crack. | ||||
Point King Boulders The Politics Boulders | |||||
V0 - 1 | The Opposition
Up the rough slab. Bit of exposure. FA: Michael Taran, Jun 2020 | ||||
V0 | ★★ Referendum
Sit start matched on jug. Straight up. | 3m | |||
V0 | Border Force
Sit start and up | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Some Confidence
Stand start. Arete and right face. FA: Michael Taran, 26 Nov 2019 | 2m | |||
V0 | Vote of No Confidence
Stand start. Follow the weird slopey feature. FA: Michael Taran, 26 Nov 2019 | 2m | |||
V0 | Presidents and Asses
Stand start compressing. Up to slopey holds. FA: Michael Taran, 8 Dec 2019 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Political Suicide
Sit start perched on top of the lowball boulder with good holds. Up slab. Dodgy landing FA: Michael Taran, 31 Dec 2019 | 4m | |||
V0 | Unconstitutional
Sit start and up. FA: Michael Taran, 31 Dec 2019 | 2m | |||
Point King Boulders Lighthouse Boulders | |||||
V0 | ★ Face
Stand Start. Climb straight up the face using jugs to the left and right avoiding the wall on the right. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Crack 1
Stand start. Up the easy crack. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Rock Lobster
Stand start on the right of the arete, up and trending left. | 4m | |||
V0 - 1 | ★ Valparaiso
Nice slab climbing up the obvious water runnel. Sit start on the arete with the low left hand jug. Up trending right-ish avoiding the jugs of 'Rock Lobster' on the left. | 4m | |||
V0 | Crack 2
Sit start. Up crack. | 4m | |||
V0 | Easy Scramble
High and easy | 7m | |||
V0 | ★★ Wind Swept
Sit start with undercling. | ||||
V0 | ★ Corner
The corner crack. | ||||
V0 - 2 | ★ Offwidth
Climb the crack without using the hidden flake or face holds for a harder variant. | ||||
V0 - 1 | Negative Space
Stand. Climb the rock column avoiding the boulders on either side. | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Cracker
Great jamming. | ||||
V0 | ★★ Writers Block
stand. You know what to do. | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Cracking
More good jamming. | ||||
V0 - 1 | ★ High n easy
Various easy lines up the tall faces. | 6m | |||
V0 | ★ On Crack
Easy crack, located to the right of the ruins towards the politics. | ||||
Point King Boulders The Middle Ground | |||||
V0 | ★ Cone of Silence
Sit start and up. Fun FA: Michael Taran, Nov 2019 | 2m | |||
V0 - 1 | Pirate Dog
Sit start with obvious low hold and right toe on bulge. Weird FA: Michael Taran, Oct 2022 | 2m | |||
V0 | Intersection
Sit start with good flake. Paste feet on and up. FA: Michael Taran, 22 Oct 2022 | 2m | |||
V0 - 1 | Crossroads, Right
Sit start on the right and traverse left on juggy lip to finish as 'Intersection'. FA: Michael Taran, 22 Oct 2022 | 4m | |||
Top Rocks Main Area | |||||
V0 | ★ Unknown 1
Sit start under the overhang on good holds. FA: Kym.H, Mar 2021 | 2m | |||
V0 | Unknown 2
Stand start. Up between the parallel sloping rails. | 2m | |||
V0 - 1 | ★ Deforestation
Stand and up the crack. Toe jams galore. FA: Scott Bradshaw, Apr 2021 | 3m | |||
V0 | Escape Strategy
Stand start and up the easy slab. FA: Michael Taran, 11 May 2021 | ||||
V0 | ★ Tip Top
Sit start and up the obvious crack on the right. Stand FA by Jim N FA: Michael Taran, 11 May 2021 | 2m | |||
V0 | Unknown 4
Trivial sit start. Start with good hold into round topout with crystals. Trust your feet up there FA: Kym.H | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Well Rounded
Stand start with edge and up the vague slabby arete. Quite fun! FA: Jim Nevin, 2020 | 3m | |||
V0 - 1 | There's A Wind Blowing
Sit start with good holds and up to jugs. Stand FA by Jim N FA: Michael Taran, 22 Apr 2021 | 2m | |||
V0 | Crubeens
Start in cave between 'Little Dipper' and 'At first sight'. Chimney up and out on left side (near LD). FA: Andreas Roilo, 20 Jan 2022 | ||||
V0 | Schlapper
Left exit FA: Jim Nevin | ||||
V0 - 1 | Trencherman
Stand start and up the middle of the face avoiding the obvious ledge on the right. FA: Jim Nevin, 2021 | ||||
Top Rocks Ground Zero | |||||
V0 - 1 | ★★ Cake Walk
Sit start perched on the rock on the left. Traverse the seam rightward to topout with the vertical crack. Awesome warm up traverse. FA: Kym.H, 2021 | 3m | |||
V0 | Gardening
Stand. FA: Jim Nevin | 3m | |||
Family Rocks Family Rock Slabs | |||||
15 | ★★★ Parables Of Light
FA: Jim Nevin & N.Towell, 1990 | 85m | |||
15 | ★ Parables Of Light Right Hand Variant
Goto west side of slab, above large square cut block at sea level and identify the v shape groove cut out of flake. Abseil to there using two to three raps. Find track that skirts beneath large boulders to find first set of rap anchors. Set up new raps where ever possible as the face has limited protection. Once at bottom, slab climb your way out of there. There is very limited protection, with one or two pieces per pitch, and up is the only way out. No one will hear your screams. Bold. | 120m, 2 | |||
Mutton Bird Approach Boulders | |||||
V0 | Crack
Up however your wish using both sides. | ||||
V0 | Back Ladder
Easy and a bit scary. | ||||
Mutton Bird Main area All Time Boulder | |||||
V0 - 1 | ★ Easy Peasy
Sit start. Up the tall, but secure, crack system. | ||||
V0 | ★ Commitment Issues
Stand start on jugs. Scary landing but chill. | ||||
Mutton Bird Main area Prow Boulder The Corridors | |||||
V0 | Tight Corners
Sit. Easy laybacking. | 2m | |||
V0 - 1 | Walling
Sit. | 2m | |||
Mutton Bird Main area Prow Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ Warm up traverse
Sit start on the far right and traverse left wards all the way and top out far left. Gets some blood into the forearms! | 8m | |||
V0 | ★★ Jug Run
Stand start and up on jugs. Good warm up. Can go directly up or up and left up the face. FA: Jim Nevin, 1986 | 4m | |||
V0 | Blocky
Sit start, bit awkward then easy up the arete. | ||||
V0 - 1 | Slab #1
Left | 3m | |||
V0 - 1 | Slab #3
Right | 3m | |||
V0 | Slabbing it
Stand start | 3m | |||
Mutton Bird Main area Ridge | |||||
V0 - 1 | Sidelines
Sit start with right hand sidepull and left hand edge and low feet. Up with various friction jugs. | ||||
VB - 0 | ★ Watch The Jug
Sit start with obvious horn jug that looks dodgy but somehow hasn't broken yet! | ||||
V0 | Chossy Sitter
Sit start. | 3m | |||
Mutton Bird Main area Junior Area | |||||
V0 - 1 | Orange Slab
Stand start and up edges trending left on the orange slab FA: Ron Master, 2004 | 3m | |||
V0 - 1 | ★★ The Big Hole
Stand start with the jug, straight up. For extra style use only the big jug to topout directly. Option to traverse right on good holds. FA: Jim Nevin, 1986 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★★ Not So Big Traverse
Start as 'The Big Hole' and traverse right on jugs to top out. FA: Unknown | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Shades of Orange
Sit start with undercling jug. Up the easy slab. Good bit of fun. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Strangers
Sit start with jugs then press up for the lip. Can add a couple of moves starting further right... | 2m | |||
V0 - 1 | Making an Escape
Sit start with jugs. Avoid rocks underneath. A bit awkward. Top out on the slab | 3m | |||
V0 | Junior Slab
Up the easy slab FA: Jim Nevin, 1986 | ||||
V0 | High step
Stand start with the blunt arete. | ||||
Mutton Bird Main area The Jumble Boulders | |||||
V0 | Jumbling
Sit start on flat edge. Straight up | ||||
Mutton Bird Wave wall area | |||||
V0 - 1 | Fancy That
Sit Start up and up on vague right arete | ||||
V0 | ★ Wavewall #1
Sit start. Up the rightward trending ramp. FA: John Herlihy | ||||
Mutton Bird Barefoot and Pregnant Sector | |||||
V0 | Easy Walling
Lots of easy warm up on this great wall before the main sector of the area. | ||||
V0 | Stand Alone
Easy and low. | ||||
V0 | ★ Sacred Ground, Left
Sit start and up with jugs. Fun | ||||
V0 | Sacred Ground, Middle
| ||||
Mutton Bird The Alamo | |||||
V0 | Flake
| ||||
V0 - 1 | Circumnavigate
Traverse around the large boulder near the track. | ||||
Mistaken Boulders | |||||
V0 | ★ No Mistake
Sit start and up the fun juggy features. Quite chossy, but very fun. | ||||
V0 | Some Easy Pockets
Sit. | ||||
V0 | ★ Error 404
Stand start. Up the crack | ||||
V0 | ★ Eraser
Stand start. Up the slabby face with the vague crack. |