Ascents in Arapiles as Lead by Douglas Hockly

The start's quite good, then the rock quality falls away a bit. Take a few big cams if you want to climb the LH corner, fortunately the RH corner has good normal sized gear and ok climbing.

The only three star 22 at Arapiles? Really? Super greasy, wandery, contrived waste of time. Of all the routes on the back of the Pharos I've done this is the worst. A far better multipitch 22 nearby is the first pitch of Shivers and the second pitch of Trojan. And Squeakeasy is a far better candidate for the mount's only three star 22.

TR'd it one day and led it placing the gear the next - it had 2 fixed wires so gear wasn't that hard to place. The bit up to the crux - about 24 - is really insecure and great climbing. The crux is interesting but the dyno for a gravelly fingerlock is not heaps of fun if you blow it. The top bit is easy (Gordy fell off it te he). Not a three star route though.

TR'd it with a fall then led it placing the gear on another day. Hadn't really looked at the gear so it felt like a proper 'placing the gear' tick. While it has good history and a good line the climbing's not that much fun, worth one star but not two.

I led the second pitch about 2005 and thought it was well protected.. went back 2015 and jumped off a few times as there was a runout traverse and a mantle before gear. Backed off as if you fell off the mantle you'd hit your belayer/the ledge.???

Two red cams handy

I found this quite hard and a bit scary. Wondered if hexes would help in the podded crack - these days link cams might do the trick. Backed off it one day and then lead it next time.

24 If you ask me! I kicked out the RP above the roof and lost it - slumped onto a #1 RP. Went back and did it later. One of the best 24's at the mount. Don't bother with the second pitch, it's rubbish.

Poor pro for first 6m then ok.

OK - access to chains at top of Nuns Love It