Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 29th Mar 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Evans Above - with Juergen Bollinger | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Despite looking like it's hardly worth doing this route has three really interesting technical sections. Traverse into it above the bolts. Double ropes are a must and a tiny cam is nice to have.
|
||||||
Sun 29th Mar 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Vandal Area | ||||||
14 | The Viragoes - with Wendy Eden | 50m | ★ Good | |||
I thought this was good, worth a star. I didn't know that you go left to a seam in reddish rock and then back right out of the cave so I spent a fair bit of time routefinding. I know I was tired but this seemed hard for the grade - 15 or 16 maybe. Not lashings of gear either, not recommended as your first 14. Chain above The Verge.
|
||||||
Sat 28th Mar 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
24 | ★ Out of the Blue - with Martin Tatton | 70m | ★ Good | |||
The roof is good climbing, the crux is mantling onto the slab over the lip! Worth a star.
|
||||||
Tue 10th Mar 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Rye Wall | ||||||
18 17 | ★ Catcher - with Wendy Eden | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climbing, still pretty hard for 18! Some large cams (3 & 4) were good and actually large hexes would be better if you could be bothered carrying them.
|
||||||
Tue 10th Mar 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
14 15 | ★ Charybdis - with Wendy Eden | 30m | Don't Bother | |||
Poor rock and gear hard to place on crux. Climbing is ok. Scylla is better.
|
||||||
Thu 30th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area The Bat Cave | ||||||
24 | ★ The Hunchback of Natimuk | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Good. Nathan Hoette eliminated the knee bars at about 28.
|
||||||
30 | ★★ Living With a Hernia | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
10 days, two knee bars and two heel-toes. Mostly layaways and underclings.
|
||||||
Thu 30th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Catch This | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Hard! and would be a goey lead off rp
|
||||||
20 | ★ Toad in the Hole | 12m, 2 | Average | |||
super greasy
|
||||||
27 | ★★ Body Recession - with Kate Dooley | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two days
|
||||||
11 | ★★ Bastress | 36m | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 | ★ Hot August Night | 15m | ★ Good | |||
I found the pro to be good with small cams - including grey alien
|
||||||
21 | ★ Factoids | 15m | ||||
23 | Interstitial | 15m | Average | |||
19 18 | ★★ Llareggub | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Always hard!
|
||||||
24 | Llareggub Variant | 15m | Average | |||
Mon 27th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | ||||||
21 | Rasputin | 30m | Average | |||
Backed off on lead. The initial corner is hard and not well protected at all. The top wall is chossy but not bad climbing.
|
||||||
19 | ★ Bootleg | 20m | Average | |||
23 | ★ Revolution Rock | 18m | ★ Good | |||
15 16 | Boot Off | 20m | Don't Bother | |||
19 | ★ Bit Torrent | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Great warmup.
|
||||||
23 22 | ★★ Copyright | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route - steep, technical and sustained.
|
||||||
V5 | ★★ Outrageous Coincidences | |||||
27 | ★★★ Exodus 2.5 | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really great, just lacking a good finish really. Finishing up Copyright is probably a better route all round.
|
||||||
26 | ★★ Exodus lI | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I really like this one! Great underclinging with not much for your feet. Saw Dave solo it and I think I was more nervous than him.
|
||||||
26 | ★ Fists of Fury - with Dave J | 20m | Average | |||
19 19 R | Trademark | 20m | Don't Bother | |||
Rubbish
|
||||||
Thu 23rd Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Spastical Cats | 25m | Average | |||
Just the top flake. OK, not worth doing again.
|
||||||
20 | ★ Tactical Cats | 22m | Average | |||
22 | ★★ Practical Cats | 25m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seemed hard, and wire seemed like it would be hard to place
|
||||||
20 19 | ★ Footloose and Fancy Free | 20m | ★ Good | |||
You can go straight up - off a shallow midsize cam, or diagonally left to finish as for Hendrix (better and better protected).
|
||||||
20 19 | ★★ Hendrix | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
All cams up to yellow - save a yellow for the last break on the overhanging wall.
|
||||||
24 | ★★ Cruel Britannia - with Paul Hoskins | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
23 23 R | ★ The Conception | 20m | ★ Good | |||
22 22 R | ★★ Hard Nipples | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Also a bit worrying up the top! Best done on a confident day.
|
||||||
12 | ★★ Cheshire Cat | 22m | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★★ Siamese Crack | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Slippery and hard for the grade
|
||||||
22 | ★ Lickwid Pussy | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 | ★ Puss 'n Boots | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard and pumpy and difficult to protect well at the start. #4 camalot helps.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Claw | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Slick and hard!
|
||||||
24 | ★ Indoctrination | 25m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Needs rebolting. The start is crimpy and not that great. It's a better route to do the start of Claw and join the traverse at about 4m. Gear is not totally bomber with a shallow cam pretty much all between you and the ground.
|
||||||
22 21 | ★ A Piece of Flake | 25m | ★ Good | |||
A little runout after the flake
|
||||||
Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Shattered Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Delicacy | 8m | Don't Bother | |||
Rubbish - really loose
|
||||||
20 | ★ Delicacy | 8m | Don't Bother | |||
Rubbish - really loose
|
||||||
24 25 | ★ Alone in the Dead Zone | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Good actually, but too thin for me these days.
|
||||||
20 | Shattered | 16m | Crap | |||
Loose as anything. Rubbish.
|
||||||
20 | Glass Goblin | 25m | Crap | |||
Rubbish.
|
||||||
Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall | ||||||
19 18 | ★ Happy Ending | 11m | Average | |||
The hard start is hard.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Wildfire | 13m | Average | |||
22 | ★★ Straw Dogs | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty tough!
|
||||||
Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
18 | ★ Yelping Pup | 12m | ★ Good | |||
very short
|
||||||
18 | ★ The Hard Ears | 13m | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★ Black Dog | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Reachy and pretty tough.
|
||||||
22 | ★ Cruel Canine | 15m | Average | |||
15 | ★ Puppy Love | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 | Dog Day Afternoon | 25m, 1 | Average | |||
18 | ★★ Howling Wolf | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Beware the easy but very run out finish
|
||||||
18 | ★ Dingo | 25m | Don't Bother | |||
Very short
|
||||||
13 | Cubbies Climb | 10m | Crap | |||
Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Steep for 14! Great route.
|
||||||
20 | ★ A Boy and His Dog | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty goey and the rock's not great but it's memorable!
|
||||||
25 | ★★ Life in the Fast Lane Direct Finish | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Good, but the original doesn't need improving. A thin technical move.
|
||||||
24 | ★★ Life in the Fast Lane | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic, super interesting climbing. No gear off the ledge, and the first move is not easy.
|
||||||
24 | ★★ Paladin | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wuss Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Whimpering Wuss | 8m | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★ Wussted | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting
|
||||||
Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | ||||||
20 | ★★ Bam Bam | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★★ Pebbles | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dino Pillar | ||||||
20 | ★ Dino | 13m | Average | |||
Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Stoat Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Bunyip | 8m | Average | |||
18 | ★★ The Stoat Steps Out | 8m | ★ Good | |||
It's so much longer than it looks!
|
||||||
25 | Small Wall | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Quite good, a wild solo.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Creeping Green Chinese Crud | 8m | Average | |||
Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
24 | ★★ Horrorscope | 16m | ★ Good | |||
I think it's good. It's not long but the climbing is interesting.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Hyaena | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 | ★★ Moby Dick | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Dylan - with Kane | 15m | Average | |||
Hard!
|
||||||
20 21 R | ★ Nightlinger | 18m | ★ Good | |||
There is not good gear and fairly hard climbing past a loose block at the start. You get in a bomber wire for the technical crux.
|
||||||
20 21 R | ★ Nightlinger | 18m | ★ Good | |||
There is not good gear and fairly hard climbing past a loose block at the start. You get in a bomber wire for the technical crux.
|
||||||
20 | ★ Mind Games | 25m | Average | |||
The good bit is pretty short
|
||||||
21 | ★ Medea's Revenge | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Fairly tough. Double ropes are good
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Possibly Beautiful | 28m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece | 35m | ★ Good | |||
I think it's OK but not 2 stars.
|
||||||
17 16 | ★ Jason | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Hard and uber slippery
|
||||||
16 | Horrible Realities | 30m | Average | |||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Slippery at the bottom
|
||||||
10 11 | ★★ Pedro | 36m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 13th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Reproductive-organ-tearing-megaclassic. There is a small wire in the jug on the right after the first bulge.
|
||||||
19 | ★ Nut Case | 22m | Don't Bother | |||
Hard and loose and not great gear and the climbing sucks...
|
||||||
16 | ★ Brick Dust | 22m | Average | |||
Okay, and you can dodge the chimney at the top by heading onto the right wall.
|
||||||
Mon 13th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump | ||||||
15 | Leafy Quoit | 25m | Don't Bother | |||
Sat 11th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Toccata | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard and slippery for 14! Great as one long 50m pitch
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Discord Direct | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
14 | ★★ Tremulo | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Seems stiff for 14. Interesting.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Jens Roof | 30m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★★ Dirge | 85m | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 | ★★ The Wraith | 35m | ★ Good | |||
I'd give this one star not three. Rock is pretty dodgy at times.
|
||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I don't love it like some do but it's a good route.
|
||||||
19 | ★ Wyrd - with Wendy | 50m | Average | |||
I backed off this. Gear and rock are not very good at start.
|
||||||
24 | ★ Abbie Normal | 24m | ★ Good |