Nodes in Blockbuster Ledge

The face visible above Tiger Wall.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area

The arete with minimal pro.

Start: Start L of 'Blockbuster'.

The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position.

Straight up to bulge, step R, up to ledge. Now the small corner up the great headwall (small wires).

Start: Start as for W.

Up wall trending R, over bulge and into chimney.

Start: Start R of B.

The major chimney R of 'Blockbuster' and L of 'Quo Vadis'.

Start: Start R of W.

Traverse out R to arete and up it past a crap BR. You can optionally step R for a rest in QV.

Start: Start as for BB.

Jenny Wren, retro bolted, with direct start up the arete. This is the usual way to do the route these days.

From halfway along the curved crack of QV, go straight up then finish L.

Start: Start as for QV.

Some tough moves off the ground past a good cam then a bolt, then follow the fantastic R-curving crack all the way.

Start: Start 4m L of S.

Up GtAT for a few metres then straight up the line of bolts into the finish of QV.

Start: Start as for GtAT.

Bumped up to 2 stars now that the dangerous start has been fixed. This is a good way to approach the elegant upper sections of 'Scorpion' or 'Kama Sutra', if their overhung trench starts don't appeal.

Start: Start 2m L of S.

1. 15m (20) Tough thin crack for 5m (FH added w/ permission March 2011) then traverse R across 'Scorpion' to belay as for 'Kama Sutra' (2 rusty carrots).

2. 15m (19) Finish up the excellent second pitch of 'Kama Sutra', with 2 FHs up high.

A great adventure that you will savour for many years. There is a length of rope with a maillon on top (10/18) that you can very easily lower off, thus annulling the need for a seconder and ensuring that whoever has just witnessed your efforts has no excuse but to get on the sharp end!

Start: Start on the edge of the yawning void at the far right end of the ledge.

Start as for Scorpion. You can also approach by traversing in from the right, from the base of Anxiety Neurosis.

1. 20m (23) Thrutch and thrash through the offwidth roof right of the Scorpion. chimney-roof. Belay at 2 rusty carrots over the lip.

2. 15m (19) A great pitch up the corner then the face past 2 FHs (new in 2010, replacing manky original carrots). You might wish to sample this pitch independently of the "delights" of the first pitch, by doing Goodbye To All That.

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).