Ascents in Bluffs as Working

So epic! Can see this going next session, just gotta dial the crux in more! Can see it feeling like low-end 28 from the ground, keen to get back on it!

Attempted pitch 1 only. Lovely 3 dimensional climbing out to the traverse, then some weird stuff to get around the arete (hint, gym climbing won't help you) where we got shut down. Think I've got it figured though and can't wait to go back. 2nd pitch looks mega, will definitely try to do both pitches (in succession) if I ever get through the first bit.

Quick burn to suss the moves. All feels doable but that crux is gonna require some oomf

So today was a big one. On the onsight burn, i made a small nest of gear in the rooflet (.4 and .75 BD) then cam down to the no hands rest. When i finally went back up trying to pull the crux i fell, blowing both the pieces, falling on the old bent carrot below. It is now much more bent. Sorry about that. So i lowered down had another burn making my gear in the roof better, fell again and all the pieces held. After a lengthy lunch at the pines we went up again and i fell again so i decided to start aiding (kinda fun). So this may be only barber route i wont be able to do. And so close to achieving the goal too.

Anyway maybe for next easter trip

Best route I've been on at Arapiles and now the subject of my obsession. Crux (just after the long reach in the picture in the guide) is cool but hard. Hand jam rest after the powerful start, and no-handers on the blocks next to Thunder Crack before the crux will help, but it's still on for a long way after the crux too. Even the lichenous vertical headwall is no gimme. "Direct Finish" seems a little contrived to me (seems more like a LHV) given the route basically tracks 2-3m left of TC ...