Ascents in Starless Buttress as Hang dog

Wow!! What a route! Mind blowing end on massive holds! Did a silly and almost pumped out trying to clip the bolt, held the quickdraw, then had to deal with crazy rope drag the rest of the way.

Technical finish, would be a hard onsight but the grade seems fair. There is now a bolt, looks like a block might've come off

Gravelly crimps that hurt ol' gym-softy's fingies. Getting past the first two bolts was not the issue, the crux is well above the 2nd bolt. Rockover move at the top is actually pretty easy and not grade 23 as suggested (< 20 imho and quite secure), however ...

... the route has at least 2 holds that have blown off the wall above the 2nd bolt, one of which we know for sure was a result of lead fall onto a wire (which blew the hold and ripped). So the route is not (quite) the same as when Mike Graham did it - notwithstanding how outrageously impressive Mike's ascent was.

I'll just be happy TR'ing this one. If I were better and had more margin I might do it as the 2 bolt sport route that it is. (Trad gear available at the very start to get to the first bolt safely, between the bolts which is unnecessary and some hard to place tiny wires near the rockover too but the route is basically over by then.)

Adds a little bit but that little bit is choss and doesn’t change the grade.

Extremely exciting route. First pitch felt nails to second! 2nd pitch was some of the most exciting climbing I have done at the mount! Had to sit at the first crux and again at the roof traverse to build up some courage haha. Can’t wait to climb it again

Got the first pitch clean, just. Second pitch destroyed me. Still good fun and good learning experience.

With Ed, Lead first pitch onsight, fell at start of second.

with Luke, one rest as couldn't commit to on-site runout

here you go kent, i'm updating my account again... happy???

An impossible move for midgets, gear most interesting, but top aret in particular an amazing position

bottom bolt replaced and lowered, a little goey in the middle, top bolt needs replacing