Routes in Central Gully for selected grade

Contrived. As for Overachiever, but from the crack, move out left under the roof to a small foot ledge, then haul up through the roof. Roof is poorly protected, so protection up high in the initial crack is advisable, and it may be possible the get a high cam placement before committing to the roof moves.

Good.

Start: Line on arete.

A good warmup romp for the harder stuff here. Up Brick Dust to the base of its chimney. Step down R (unlikely) and make a few balancy moves across and up into Squeakeasy. Continue up Squeakeasy to its anchor.

A really good route, one of the most pleasant 18s at Arapiles. Start 3m R of Jason. Jugs to bulge and over to stance on right. Step left and up thin line.

An "adds nothing" R to L girdle best not written up in the first place. See notes for details.

The wide crack just R of the arete. A better jamming testpiece than The Rack. There's good gear but beware that cams have a habit of skating out of the polished rock so avoid flaring or merely parallel placements.

Short line. Start 3m L of TSSO.

Follow the chalk. Be sure to sew it up - there's not much room for error on routes this short! The main chalked crack line on this wall.

The block and seam. Start 1m R of TSSO.

Its just a step to the left - then a jump to the right. Pelvic thrust up to top! Starts right of Bunyip and about 2m left of broken corner, sort of behind tree.

The bottomless crack.

Start: Start R of WoT.

Dyno, then the wall.

Start: Start R of CV.

The rooflet.

Start: Start just L of the arete, R of PS.

Head diagonally L to join the bottomless corner on the arete.

Start: Start R of D.

The awkward offwidth (is there any other sort?)

Start: Start on the L side of the next buttress R of WD.

The diagonal crack then the face.

Start: Start on the front of the nose between HW and J.

More wide crack thrashery.

“ What an absolute gem. Beautiful variety of cracks with an easy finish. Would 100% recommend.”

Start: Start under the R-facing dark wide crack on the R side of the HW buttress.

The chalked-up orange crack 10m R of Jackal.

Start: Start 1m R of THE.

A generous envisioning of a route. Presumably start behind the tree and maintain serious blinkers to climb anything resembling 18.

Start: 2m R of 'Yelping Pup'.

Up H then trickily R into corner/crack.

Start: Start as for H.

The crack with a hard start.

Start: Start on the R edge of the wall.

Start 2m R of Droop Street. Short crack to a mantle, then easier wall.

At last - some truth in advertising! Start right of the gully right of Maman! Maman! This route takes a line up the left side of the rightmost boulder, on the face facing Central Gully. Up shallow groove to break. Swing boisterously out through roof to top.

Start off the top of the detached pillar. Climb the R-facing corner (or the much better steep jugs 3m R), then go R under lower roof. Over lip into short corner then ledge on L. Now traverse 8m L then up.

Line left of Greenfingers past two bolts plus gear to anchor.

Start right of Eat Your Greens at the dark grey section of slab. Up boldly to first gear at 6m. Continue up wall 1m left of Pet Parsley until the two routes merge for lower angled finish. 30m lower off.

Up tiny ramps to bolt left of WMT. Up to bottomless crack in pod and to ledge on WMT. Step left and up wall. There are good small wires between bolt and pod if you look around.

Down from Misunderestimated are 2 lines up a short grey bulging wall. Up the right line, climb over or around a large detached block depending on how mad you are feeling to a grey seam leading to ledge under orange roof. Lower off. Watch rope if using 50m.

On the small pillar in front of Reaper there's a wall facing the same direction as Reaper Wall. The steep crack on the L side of the buttress. Surprisingly better than it looks, although it does look bloody awful.

Start 5m R of Red Parrot Chasm on the juggy water-washed slab. Climb the white streak to a two bolt lower-off.

Start at the line between Stalagmite and Preludes. The crack to break, then tiny R-facing corner past a bolt. Continue past R side of prominent nose and up the buttress to ledge. Finish past a bolt through the pumpy overhang.

Start around corner from 'Frankenstein'. Up wall on left through steep bulge.

Not bad.

Up the crack on the east face (the one that looks towards camp), then the SE arete (the one which looks towards the Organ Pipes).

start 5m left of sandpiper (2m right of Top Cat). Climb rightward up slab to corner (left of prominent nose). Follow diagonal line, crossing Sandpiper. Continue rightwards to steep overlaps (crux). Finish as for Arab pitch 1. Fun!

Up the steep jam-crack through the V-cleft lip, then nice flake/crack to small ledge. Step L and up short corner.

Start on the L side of the Oasis (which is 3-4 pitches up Dunes or Eskimo Nell).

The usual offering from these two! The ugly offwidth roof/corner on the L side of the boulder. Finish up EN pitch 5.

Start on the Oasis on the L side of the big boulder which Eskimo Nell pitch 4 crawls under.

Up the middle of the wall to short blank corner, then up and L and short crack. Start under the middle of the grubby wall.