Showing all 31 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
18 | ★ Over and Out
A girdle traverse of the left side of the wall. Start 5 metres northwardsish of most southerly conifer. FA: Alistair Mark, Dave Vass, Fiona Bowie & Marcus Wallaby., 1988 | 30m | |||
20 | ★ Jugs and Fun
From cave left of Down And Out climb out right and up overhanging wall. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985 | 22m | |||
20 | ★★ Down and Out
Start from the big chock stone. Left to thin crack then up through roof to steep wall. FA: Mark Moorhead & Craig Nottle, 1979 | 25m | |||
21 | ★ Mark and Craig
A few more repeats might help clear up the route description. Option 1: From halfway along the Down And Out traverse, go up through bulges on tiny edges (and no gear?), to prominent flake. Option 2: Traverse a quarter of the Down And Out traverse, then go up via thin seams and decent gear, before spanning a metre left to gain the prominent flake. Follow the glory jugs to the Down And Out anchor (found tucked around the corner). FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985 | 24m | |||
17 | Lord of the Rings Variant Start
Up breaks L of red streak at top of Intrepid Gully. FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 2014 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Kansas City Direct Finish
Nowhere near Kansas City! Quite good but quite reachy and closer to 22 if you're short. FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 18m | |||
16 | ★ Waddy Mackenzie
Pull up on jugs behind small tree immediately right of Kansas City DF, over bulge and up. FA: Craig Nottle, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1983 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Exodus 2.5 Direct Finish
Start direct if you want but guard against cracked red hold with small cam (green Alien size). Otherwise start up Waddy Mackenzie. FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 2014 | 18m | |||
21 | ★ Four Spooner
Start 8m R of Kansas City Direct Finish. Boulder the hard start using square pocket and minimal pro, then up to the right of the left-leading diagonal, before following jugs to top. FA: Peter Newman & Mark Moorhead, 1979 | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Nihilism
One very long move on nice rock. FA: Douglas Hockly, Kate Finnerty & Callum Dougal | 18m | |||
15 | Heavy Breathing
Steep wall on incuts to finish through overhang. FA: Keith Lockwood & Dave Gairns, 1983 | 20m | |||
15 | ★ Heartless Heart
? repeat of Heavy Breathing. 1.5 metres left of Heavy Petting. FA: Martin Lama etc, 1991 | 20m | |||
15 | Heavy Petting
Fill in the double-entendres if you're so inclined. Start 3 metres left of Menagerie. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983 | 20m | |||
9 | ★ Munchkin
Strenuous for the grade but has great jugs. The Shepherd guide description for Menagerie followed this line but the original Menagerie description clearly places it further right. Start at top of rise behind the largest conifer (?same place as Heavy Petting). FA: Unknown, 2000 | 20m | |||
9 | ★ Menagerie
Start right of largest conifer. Short red groove, traverse right then up to left-facing corner. Up corner and exit left. FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1977 | 20m | |||
17 | ★ High Sigh
Direct finish to The Second Affinity. Go straight through roof or left and up. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Craig Nottle, 1983 | 25m | |||
17 | ★★ The Second Affinity
Absorbing climbing on immaculate rock. Originally the second pitch of a 2-pitch route; the first pitch is now The First Affinity. Start 5 metres down and right of large conifer. FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979 | 22m | |||
17 | ★ Dinger
Start as for Hum. Where Hum heads off R step L to slot under overlap. Pull through overlap and straight up with a steep finish. FA: Mark Wood & Eddy Mofadin, 30 Dec 2014 | 22m | |||
18 R | ★ Dinger direct start
Straight up to the break with not enough gear. FA: Douglas Hockly, 2011 | 25m | |||
16 | ★ Hum
An enjoyable pitch with an exciting crux. Start 4m R of Affinity. FA: Ed Neve, Andrew Bowman & Lyle Closs, 1977 | 30m | |||
24 | ★ Jug City
In fact it's a nearly blank wall. Pass the fixed hanger of High Kicks, and continue past a ringbolt, before getting to the honeycomb featured rock and a lower off. FA: Geoff Little & Jon Muir, 1988 | 13m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ High Kicks
Start just left of enormous conifer and just right of the rock step down and right from Hum. Technical moves lead to a delicate flake. The old carrot bolt, although poking out attractively, has been replaced. Finish at lower off where the nest of viper like rap slings once lurked ready to strike. FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1981 | 13m, 1 | |||
25 | ★ Starlets in Tow
Desperate start. Start 3m R of High Kicks. FA: Mike Law & Charlie Creese, 1981 | 20m | |||
20 | ★★ Stormalong
Sustained jamming and underclinging with feet cycling on glassy rock. The second pitch is fun in an adventurous way. Start below the right-leading roof-crack right of High Kicks.
FA: Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1977 | 32m, 2 | |||
24 | ★ Afternoon Cloud
A harder variant on the second pitch of Morning Thunder. The first pitch appears a bit pointless, and the route is best done by starting up Morning Thunder.
FA: Jon Muir & Tony Dignan, 1985 | 35m, 2 | |||
25 | Krakatoa
FFA: Kevin Lindorff | 30m, 5 | |||
24 R | ★★ Morning Thunder
A great climb up the best section of the wall. Best done in one long pitch which will be pumpy to start and run-out to finish. Start at weakness 10m R of Stormalong.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead (alt), 1979 | 30m, 2 | |||
25 X | ★★ Sufficiently Alarming
Very serious route up the Morning Thunder wall (although the addition of extra bolts to the second pitch has helped tame that part).
FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988 | 35m, 2, 3 | |||
12 | From the Ridiculous to the Sublime
Climb past short wall and ledge to gain thin crack. FA: Phil Benson, Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991 | 12m | |||
18 | Up in Arms
Wall 2 metres to right of FTRTTS with big pockets at 2 metres. FA: Martin Lama, Phil Benson & Graeme Smith, 1991 | 12m | |||
17 | ★★ Sole Sister
Go up 1 metre right of Up In Arms and right to overhang, step right, up. FA: Graeme Smith, Phil Benson & Martin Lama, 1991 | 12m |
Showing all 31 routes.