Routes in Arapiles

Tenuous smooth wall just L of jugs

Start left of the plaque. Smooth start then into the groove.

Right-slanting dog-leg crack just right of 'Dynamic'

Start 3m left of Tullah's Tease and up the bouldery start. Straight up through the middle of the orange face on ripper incut jugs. Stay in the middle of the face the whole way up. Protection is great all the way.

Slab and bulge at right end of slabby terrace. Continue up yellow tinged corner.

The direct line up P2 of Resignation and into the bulge of P3.

P1: As for Resignation.

P2: Instead of heading left to the weakness, continue straight up on orange rock to reach the bottom of the bulge on P3 of Resignation. Continue to Resignation's belay.

P3: Follow P4 of Resignation.

Sit start at a undercling. Then up the overhanging stump. Top out.

Start as for Pinch Arete, traverse R across Jump to Jug to scoop and undercling, then up employing a good spotter and an accurately placed mat for the final moves

Up the R side of the buttress. At the head wall head directly up the crack to the right of the arete

Absolutely thrilling, difficult for the grade if you don't like having your heels above your head, and generally more difficult to second than to lead.

Start at the belay at the top of the pillar L of the Kachoong wall. This can be approached by "A Taste of Honey Direct Start", "Echo System" or the corner scramble between it and the Kachoong wall.

Up surprisingly easy overhanging crack to a very steep section beneath a roof with a fairly blank wall on the right. Traverse R across this wall using the line of jugs just below the roof with disappointingly few footholds to a ledge at the end and safety.

The route continues up on lovely rock at about grade 10 to the top.

The original aid line was the low crack (now known as "A Taste of Honey Variant") and the original free ascent (Henry Barber) used the roof crack above at the same grade but the best climbing is as described.

Start in corner left of 2nd pitch of Viagra. Up crack for 5m, traverse right and up to bolt. up past bolt with 2nd bolt on way to top.

Follow Lizard Procrastination to the ledge below the final overhang. Head up and right on juggy wall to ledge on right arete. Step back left and up steep juggy crack to top.

A linkup that traverses the cave, twice.

Start as for "Four", traverse leftwards and then finish up traversing right as per "One".

A pleasant jug-haul arete.

Start: The arete right of the walk-down gully.

Fun roof climbing, past a slightly spooky block.

Starts in Nick Cave, on the right hand side past two bolts and finishes up headwall at a sling anchor.

An enjoyable combination pitch (Watchtower Chimney and Radio Days) which has already become quite popular. Climb Watchtower Chimney's initial crack to the traverse. Move 2m L to the ancient carrot bolt. Straight up the crack above (Radio Days) to a narrow ledge. Directly up the wall above (avoiding the easier climbing up the arete on the L) to the big ledge and lower-off / rappel anchors.

Not a bad excursion to the top of the Organ Pipes from the Tremulo anchor. Bear in mind that it is little-travelled so treat the rock with respect and be mindful of climbers below. It's not actually the original finish of Tremulo, which continued up the gully above the anchor, but the finish of Humouresque. The climbing can be split in a number of ways, with best ledges at 30m and 40m. Continue up left buttresses from anchors at top of pitch one of Tremulo, passing the MCC gnome high on the buttress. Walk off.

Start up Mediterranean Sundance Direct Start, then through the incipient seam midway between M.S and AaA. A nest of little cams can protect the crux finish

Start under the R side of the low overhang on the N arete of Bluff Major.

1. 15m (26) Head out left past 2 high FH's and an unnecessary, rusty carrot that's pulling out, then step down and left to arete before heading back upwards again to ledge with lower-offs.

2. 12m (24) Great pitch up the arete past a few bolts, go L at the top for the grade 24 version, or direct for the grade 26 version (listed separately here but now the accepted finish), to lower-offs on top.

Scary up the shallow corner and thin wall to join PB

Sit start. R hand on sloper and L hand on Gaston. Through R side of roof

Left to right over nose. Sit start.

Follow the wide crack the whole way up.

Old classic previously unrecorded.

Up the diagonal crack two meters right of Scarlet Sage, then left and up.

Start: Start two metres right of Scarlet Sage.

Sit start, then move up through side pull and fun sequence of edges and jugs to top out on high but good holds.

R to L traverse starting on the obvious jug pocket and mono. Finish as for start of Exodus, the high jug.

Steepest part of grey arete left side of left wall, standing start from jugs via the fingery crack.

Has a lot of loose blocks.

The topo is vague at the top - pls fix it if you work out where the route goes!

Start 7m R of BT.

Done in 3 pitches but pitch lengths not supplied. (1) Up until you're under the roof crack. (2) Up then do a loose traverse R into diagonal crack. (3) Up towards roof but go around it on the R.

FA: John Moore, Keith Lockwood - 1973-07-15

2 rings plus a handful of cams to summit loweroff.

Start: Lefthand slab route on detached wall just right of Gardener's Delight.

Up weakness to the right of Side Show following left-facing flake system to the roof. Head left along under this until an exit can be made straight up to rap station. For a more exciting finish (still grade 18), go straight through the weakness in the roof

Start: Two metres right of Side Show, a vague "E" can be found scratched on the rock

Start up the second pitch of Gardener's Delight and finish up Spanish Eyes.

Start just R of SC. Fixed wire and BR to join the original.

Actually 18M1 because you use the corner of the plaque. Then up.

Slabby start to jugs

Discontinuous cracks.

Start: Start just L of 'Revolver Crack'.

Brushed bulge 2m right of MGR. Finish right of yellow corner.

Crux pull on of ‘10’ then press left to climb left arete. Cool.

Start as for “the woody”, top out between the branch and the knob.

Sit start at crimp, straight up and mantle to finish.

Sit start to Waterboys via a dino from the steep juggy rail.

Start left of 'Hidden Secrets'. Up rightwards ramp to corner, step right and head then up until above rooflet. Traverse left and finish up 'Loading Zone'.

On the trackside of the boulder. Gain vague scooped arete from the left

Up the seam.

Open project past a bolt. A couple of pretty hard moves.

Climb the chasm right of Spasm by following a finger crack on the left wall which leads up and right through a squeeze. Top out on the road side of Uncle Charlie's via some juggy wide chimneying. Walk off over the chockstone to the Pharos. Protectable, but a pretty tight fit with a harness.

An Arapiles sport route - bolts where you need them (and nowhere else). Straightens out A Hundred Little Baby Bums by going straight up the brown streak past 7 bolts. Somewhat ironic given every other route here induces brown streaks of their own ...

Clip protruding carrot of Hundred Little Baby Bums under the roof and monkey on to the face. Straight up past 3 more fixed hangers in the middle of the brown streak (escape out left into AHLBB is possible at both bolts 3 and 4 at grade 25 and 26 respectively). Up on to slab and AHLBB's 2nd carrot and a final sting direct up past another 2 FH's though a steep finish.

Up the patch of orange rock, 2 BRs.

Start: Start on the tiny outcrop which is downhill from 'Steel Delinquency' Pinnacle, and which faces the same way.

Offwidth 5 meters right of French Crack. Part of the old descent route, usually abseiled but not always.

As for TYOLD when you get to the dispatched traverse instead of following that bast up through more steepness. (Closed project)

A hard few moves on the crux but a bit disappointing overall. Start on the grey buttress just right of Toccata.

1. 13m (10) The buttress to a small stance about 6 metres below and left of prominent roof.

2. 35m (17) Up diagonally right from 2-3 metres to an awkward mantleshelf then an unlikely traverse back left to a thin crack. Go up into a wider, bottomless crack just right of 'Toccata'. The easiest way off is probably to scramble around (roped) to the abseil anchors on 'Toccata'.

A neat route featuring a classy and thought-provoking first pitch.

Start: Start just right of the chimney splitting this face (sundance).

1. 40m (19) Up the slab to the crack and good gear and a funky mantle to bolt (2nd bolt spins in the hole but can be backed up with a pink Camp tricam). Step right (pocket, small profile cam or tricam) and slabby moves lead to more good climbing and another bolt and on to ledge and belay bolt.

2. 27m (17) Move right to the prominent nose, bridge past its left side and up to ledge. Move 6 metres right to belay below tiny, right-facing corner.

3. 22m (17 R) Up the little corner with marginal gear until it fades and continue boldly up wall. Technical bulge leads to 'Rotten Row'.

4. 48m (14) Up easy flake behind conifer then steeply up to horizontal break at 20 metres. Short left-leading corner then veer left and up.

Incorrectly labelled as 'Tonic' when first put on The Crag. FA details on this alternate finish for 'Pot Boiler' are unknown.

Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue heading right then up gross looking crack.

Sit Start. Start under R of roof then out and up seam and slab

Climb the face just R of the arete.

Start: Traverse in the the base from under Procul Harem (easy but exposed). Start at the far L of ledge.

Jump to the poor hold and straight up

A completely separate route despite the name! Start right of Iron Void and up.

A short route with shallow pockets. Three bolts to join Evelyn at about 2/3 height.

Hard start and up face left of arete.

Sit start for Three Moves to Glory. Not materially harder, but better

Take the same starting diagonal crack as 'Wascal', but continue another two meters before going up.

Start: Start as for 'Wascal'.

Sit start on obvious jug, then straight up to top out via ledge.

Start at the far R edge of 'Seneca' wall.

Topo is vague at the top - pls fix if you know where it finishes.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone - 1977-10-00

P1 (25m, 17) Up corner, around a crack in a bulge, then L to a belay.

P2 (25m, 17) Up the line and through the roof via a scoop.

Another clean streak that is proving popular. Start 10m left of Panzer.

1. 30m (18) Climb bulging wall to easier ground. Move back L and straight up through weakness in undercut bulge. Belay as for Panzer.

2. 30m (16) Up Panzer's corner crack then traverse L following the flake. At the top of the flake go straight up and belay in V corner. The flake section at the beginning of this pitch was first done by Ed Neve, Peter Megens, Garry Wills as a variant to Panzer. 27-04-1980.

3. 20m (8) Scrabble to the top following crack up and L.

Has a ring with a hard clip for the hard start then drops off several grades. Summit loweroff. Righthand slab route with hard start just right of Mohawkman.

A variant finish to 'Hell For Leather' which is more sustained and improves the original.

Start: Start as for Hell for Leather.

1m left of decent route

The bulging crack just right of the plaque.

Sit start

Start on the large LH jug, traverse the lip and break anti-clockwise.