Routes in Australia

Long multi-pitch slab left of Noblesse Oblige and right of Stiletto Slab. No bolts.

The arete with the narrow wall above, just left of “Chum, Sodomy And The Leash”

J.Nevin, D. Algie 2003

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/zig-zag-the-gap-albany/

Sit start using left side pull and right chipped two finger pocket. Climb bulge and top out.

The slopey break to the top.

Start from the undercling and nubbin, go to sloper and micro crimp then awkward mantle. Hard and committing. Alt start hanging off the rail.

Malcolm thinks that this might be the worst route name he has ever ascribed, and suggests that it deserves more traffic than the name suggests! The crack is a smooth split compared to most cracks at Buffalo (ie it's similar in texture to Lift Girls Lament).

Sit start.

SDS Delicate face finishing over the top block direct

Open project, steep landing.

Difficult Mantle move

Climbs 'Gladiator' until into the corner, then drops down and traverses right across the lip of the Olympus roof via some pockets. Once at the arete, blast straight on up the face, finishing at chains.

Sit start on steep wall below "Triple Connection".

The inspiring black streak 2m left of The Razorback. Fantastic atmospheric climbing, that despite easing higher up, still requires a level head.

Open project.

Sit start with LH on sidepull and RH squeezing tufa in the darker patch of rock. Pull on slap up.

FA: Surely some ballsy 15 yr/old in the 50’s soloed this Linking up the best bits of cornered and reason, Quite a quality line, a great top rope number. Please avoid retro bolting the last few meters as the gear is bomber and it would be a shame to turn this historic area into a grid bolted gym.

Don’t worry, it’s not really a snake hole. (As far as we know).Sit start. Look for the deep hole under lip the, get about fore arm deep and fist off width lock off to start. Eases off after you get to the jug about half way. Top out.

Just right of the corridor (in front of a tree) are some vertical seams dropping down from the top of the boulder. Climb them from a stand start.

Start four points contact Left of Crack to low raverse right into and up Right of Crack.

Start: On a flat rock at the large eucalypt at the bottom of 'Solo Gully'.

1. 40m (15) Up 3m to carrot then traverse R 10m (small cams). Up to another carrot then R 10m to double rings on far side of ledge.

2. 20m (15) Awkward move up the corner and onto the left face. Up corner 2m (wires in crack) then move onto the right face at carrot. Follow carrots R across wall and up to cave. Double ring belay in back of cave or double carrots at the edge of the cave.

3. 20m (14) Follow the carrots to the left, don't be tempted by the ring bolts (those are for Shock and Awe). Scary move out of the cave to pull up onto the wall. Follow carrots straight up. Mid sized cams can supplement the carrots. Belay off big tree 10 back or double rings 5m over to the right.

Face just right of the chimney.

Either 3 stars, or negative 3 stars, depending on how much you like a tree branch to the face. Climb the Krack to top out

Perfect for the kids, climb up the dirty crack using the flake and ledge.

Second from the right, start on sloppy rail and straight up

Sit-starts on the good edge left of the marked Olympus start (just right of 'Gladiator' Direct). Big move to the square jug at the start of Olympus, then reach right for underclings on the left edge of the small cave (feet on pillar only). Grab a positive edge on the lip, then dyno right to the large flared pinch. Swing feet onto the right-side of the cave and drop down to the finger jug at the start of 'The 'Warm Up' Traverse'. Has been linked into The 'Warm Up Traverse' & onwards up 'Japetus' Direct - which is worth 27 for effort!

Climb the left leaning arete (RH entrance to the alley).

Straight up the slab past the intrusion at 2 meters

South side Triple Hex Belay. Opposite eastern-most bolt. Bridge.

Start on the same holds as Suspension of Disbelief and head straight up the face to a hard high crux. Not for the faint of heart. Will be a mega double digit line.

Start as for Lotta Bunny finish as for Rabbit rught side of the slab.

The chimney R of bolted pinnacle

Marked S.

1. 18m

2. 15m

3. 30m

Steep wall. Highball. Filled with holds. Various lines.

SDS off the ledge. Short steep arete via break. The good slot halfway up the corner of Sprecher Shakparo is off route. If you use it, subtract a couple of grades.

Stabd start on small sidepull and link into jug on OP#15

Bring gloves...

Stand start from face/arete right of corner then climb up and top out.

The fridge shaped tower between baguette and Graf Spee. Very awkward sit start from flat hold and no lower block makes up the crux (and may be harder than 6... hard to tell as it took ages to sort beta). Then climb face and right arete (no jams) finishing up awesome pocketed head wall. Can be climbed using small edge on bottom block for feet at about V3.

Rebolted with ringbolts 2015, wall, seam then pockets starting from block right of K.

Squat start. Start left hand on obvious mono pocket, right hand on lowest side pull.

Needs more repeats. Could be a V3.

Eson Zhao

Low sit start at the back of the roof, big moves out following the break in the roof.

Left most problem before the wall gets too chossy.

Move up the wall directly to the right of the pole. As hand holds run out move focus to your feet before grabbing for the top edge.

Climb up to cave then up thin top wall.

Start: 1m right of '3D Wimp Out'

Pretty easy, and I doubt security likes it much, but I've never been moved off it

Start from ground off small holds (slopey crimps).

Start as for Four. Traverse right along low flake to BR, then up and past another BR to tree.

The half traverse...SDS in middle of wall. RH on vertical sidepull, LH on good crimp jug. Up to slot, match and across left into and up 8 Ball...very cool

Crack

Chimney 10m right of MVS, then wanders all over the shop.

Sit start just R of tree. Straight up using large ledge.

Stand start on a good blocky side pull. Head for the lip and mantles it out. Don't bother employing someone that stands around with their hands in the air. Probably V4.

Start jammed in the horizontal flaring crack and jam your way to the top. A nice intro to hand jamming.

VO if you downclimb.

Bit of a tough start until it gets chalk over the obvious holds, starting off the ground makes it a true 19.. May pay to clip first bolt off the block then step down to ground.

Start at left scoop, move up through a series of scoops and top out at the peak of the boulder.

Long gently overhanging line on FHs , up juggy grey rock to a technical crux in middle then steep and pumpy to the loweroff. The route has one FH over the top should you use it to top out.

Sit start on rock in left corner of overhang with central right edge layback, left sloper, and far right triangle feature foot. To high thin-edge gaston. With weird feet gain lip for mantle. Head up and right to fern opening for topout.

Sit start matched in the crack on the far right. Traverse left then around the corner to topout with various jugs. Fun Warm up.

A plumb line incorporating the corner of ANAT.

Nice crack with 'good' underclings and 'easy' moves. The block that the lower off was in is cracked on 3 sides and has a tree growing in it, so it was moved down to more solid rock.

Grade is for when a drought is on. Start: Just follow the stream - it is the actual falls.

1. 20m Chimney through hole, up to ledge.

2. 20m Up to next ledge.

3. 20m (crux) Rightish then up. 4,5,6. 100m Easily up.

4. 15m Bridge onto block, right into corner and up.