Pierce's Creek, Bouldering

BLDV

VB VB+V0-V0 V0+V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V7 V9 V11

Map

4 6 1 2 3 5

1 Laurel Camp Rd 2 Western Area 3 Eastern Area 4 Far North 5 Beyond the Belt 6 The Abyss

Directions in Google Maps

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Seasonality

Summary

Granite

Lots of problems, and a lot of room for establishing new problems.

Large Granite Boulders on Scenic Ridges or tucked away in dense pine forests, only 30 minutes from Canberra or 3.5 hours from Sydney.

Description

Since the fires the area has developed a lot of regrowth that will make it harder to access some areas and problems. Those in best condition are at the top of the list of sub areas and have more ascents and phototopos.

An area mapped out in the main by Justin Ryan and Chris Warner in 2002 - the year before the Canberra bushfires in Jan 2003. Pierce's Creek has hundreds of discrete boulder problems over a wide-ranging area.

Access issues

Allowed

Mostly state forest, but some of the western areas fall inside the Lower Cotter water catchment area.

Approach

<5 min

Follow Cotter Road SW from Canberra. After passing the dam, you will come upon a camp-ground and separate scenic riverside lunch areas. Keep heading up Cotter Road until you come to Laurel Camp Road. Don't turn at the Pierce's Creek Forest sign - that's too early; continue on a bit further and turn right. Keep an eye out for dirtbikes, they're often on the wrong side of the road.

Directions for individual areas can be found at the area level, although the easiest way to find them is a GPS or check out Duncan's guide, although its map leaves a lot to be desired. https://payhip.com/athletebychoice

The area map here has been updated to show closed roads, of which there are many. It should be possible to navigate from it, at least around the main areas.

Where to stay

Camping is not allowed in the state forest, stay at Cotter Road Campground. Hot plates, sinks, showers, and bathroom facilities are provided for a reasonable nightly fee. There is no phone service here.

Ethic

Under development

Pierces Creek is primarily a bouldering area however a number of naturally protected lines have been established over the years. No bolting of routes is accepted. Instead, ascentionists use natural protection on the higher problems, or where that is not available, rely on mats, spotters, and gumption.

History

History timeline chart

While climbing started here in the early 80's, bouldering in the area was kick started when Justin Ryan drove though on the way to look at boulders in Tidbinbilla in 1999. Most of the development occurred in 2002. The initial primary developers were Justin Ryan and Chris Warner. Other people involved in the initial development included Andrew Bull, George Feig, Nathan Wales and Clinton Szady. Many people have helped with the clean up or the rock and the regrowth since the fires. In 2015/16 Peter Nettleford and Dane Evans have found a number of old problems and put up a number of new ones.