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The Pharos
Named for the Pharos of Alexandria (the ancient lighthouse) not the Pharaohs of Egypt, this 100m high pinnacle is separated from the main face by a narrow chasm. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area |
Death Row Pinnacle
The separate pinnacle on the camp ground side of the Pharos. Birdman of Alcatraz is the L leading diagonal crack. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Death Row Area |
Death Row Pinnacle |
14
Lichenthrope
About 3m right of the far left edge of DR Pinnacle. Move up and right to bulging small overhang. Up and over this then slightly back left across cloud princess like lovely lumps. Straight up to top. |
16
Retsina
Appealing leftward leaning clean crack, then up to finish just left of 'Rush Hour'. A longer version has been done (and re-named "I'm Lichen It") by finishing left into corner, through bulge and on to summit block. Start: Start 2-3m L of RH. |
15
★ Rush Hour
Start beneath the low "col" on the L side of the Pinnacle. Climb straight up the burgundy water streak. |
26
★★ Redacted 1
Supercedes the old route Action Kid. Varied climbing with four different cruxes. Up 3m L of 'Social Comment' to ledge then continue straight up through a slopey bulge (crux 1) past a bolt. Crimp and slab R (passing underneath another bolt) into 'Birdman Of Alcatraz' (crux 2) then span right onto headwall (crux 3), to stance in crack. Right to 4th bolt and powerfully up (crux 4!). If you don't go right at the top but go straight up to the chains, it's called 'Redacted 2', also 26. |
26
★★ Redacted 2
As for "Redacted 1", but avoids stepping out right at the finish and goes straight up via a fixed hanger. It features some fantastic (and weird) climbing, such that most people seem to choose this finish rather than the original. |
Variants
There are a number of great variants on this section of rock, but to write them all up as new routes would clutter everything up. Instead, they are listed below (thanks to Glenn Tempest for most of the route descriptions).
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24
Action Kid
This line must climb quite poorly for it not to get any stars - because the wall looks fantastic! Start 3m L of 'Social Comment', 20m R of 'Rush Hour'. Thin crack thru bulge to ledge. Up past BR, go L then back R and join Birdman on ledge. R up groove past BR. |
13
★ Social Comment
Not many routes this easy get you up a wall like this. Start: Start below a L arching V-crack, 6m L of Birdman.
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24
★★ Bent
Thin seam, cross Birdman to join Bad. Undercling L under roof to hanging corner, then L below bulge to finish up crack (BR). Start: Start 2.5m L of Birdman. |
23
★★ Bent DF
Avoids the last hard bit of Bent. It's thought that this finish might be where Bad P2 went (before the bolt!). Climb the majority of Bent, until the point where that route steps left across the void; instead, go up the round arete on good edges past a bolt. |
23
★★★ Birdman of Alcatraz
Considered by many to be the best 23 at 'Arapiles'. Start where the dominant flake/line reaches the ground. Follow the line, except at halfway where you need to traverse L for a few metres below the flake before going up to rejoin it. Staying with the flake is reachy 25. |
23
★★ Bad
Great first pitch. Pitch 2 seems a bit contrived and is usually not done. Start: Start 1m R of Birdman.
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18
★★★ Death Row
Layback corner then L into the "condemned cell", which takes some escaping! Great moves continue above, trending slightly L. Top anchor is several bits of rope/tat with a mallion. Walk over the top of the pinnacle, with a short down-climb to a rap anchor behind boulder. Start: Start at the L-facing corner at the R end of the main face. |
18
Commuted
Start as for 'Death Row' Climb the initial corner on 'Death Row' and continue straight on up the line instead of stepping left into the condemned cell. Delicate, airy moves over a bulge lead to a corner system capped by a small roof. Bridge spectacularly through the left side, or more easily on the right. Continue up wall right of the arête to the top of the pinnacle. |
10
★ Tequila Mockingbird
A ramble up the northern aspect of 'Death Row Pinnacle'. The first pitch was the scramble down from 'Garden Gnome' before the rap anchor went in. Start from a ledge right of Death Row ’s condemned cell and a bit down left from 'Garden Gnome' .
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17
★★ Garden Gnome
Cute little thing starting 20m up right from 'Death Row'. Crack to ledge, then seam up grey face. |
21
Cloud Piercer
Start 2m R of 'Sky Scraper' , just R of native pine. Groove, step L, straight over bulge. |
22
Sky Scraper
Contrived. Start 3m R of 'Garden Gnome'. Steep seam 2m L of 'Cloud Piercer', R at bulge but stay out of 'Cloud Piercer'. |
14
Buttons
Directly behind Garden Gnome some 10 metres around the corner. Short steep line to a series of scoops that look like buttons. Rap off Garden Gnome chains. |
14
★ Black Box
4 metres right of Buttons. Tricky climbing up black stained wall into small sentry box. Out to right side of box and head up arête of pinnacle. |
14
Black Box Direct Start
Nicer than the sentry-box start and no harder! Fingery wall midway between Black Box and Howling moving slightly left to join the original climb at about 6m. |
18
Howling
5 metres right of Black Box. Climb middle of orange wall using little pockets and directly up middle of slabby pinnacle although this is run out (easy escape left of right). |
8
Water Wings
5 metres right of Howling. Start as for 'Laurel and Hardy' directly under the rap chains. Thereafter take left leaning crease in rock and the easiest left line to the pinnacle summit. |
15
Laurel and Hardy
Slapstick. Straight up the rap route on the back of the Death Row Pinnacle. |
The Never Boulder
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity. State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive). |
The Never Boulder |
V14
Never Say Never
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity. State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive). |
Uncle Charlie
Home to some of the hardest routes at Araps, Uncle Charlie is the outcrop at the NE corner of the Pharos, close to the road and recognizable for the twin chimneys. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area |
Uncle Charlie |
32
★ Pretty In Punk
An amazing effort by a relatively unsung local. This completely natural (read, "not chipped or glued" like its famous sibling) has some genuinely difficult (as if the grade weren't required to confirm it already) slabby traversing early on before pulling into Punks, climbing it for a few metres before escaping out R to the arete. Start beneath the R-leading arch, a few metres up L of PitG. |
33
★★ Punks Addiction
Joins the hardest bits of both routes and is supposedly a grade harder than each of them. At least two repeats, Chris Lindner in 2009 and Byam Keil in 2023. Start as for Pretty in Punk, finish as for Punks in the Gym. |
30
★★★ Punky Brewster
The master of combinations and permutations digs up another classic. This one links the "easy" bits of the two original routes. Start as for Punks in the Gym, finish as for Pretty in Punk. |
32
★★★ Punks in the Gym
The easiest line up a great, albeit only mildly overhanging wall. Probably the world's first 8b+ / 5.14a and ahead of its time in Australian terms - it took nearly ten years before an Aussie (Stuart Wyithe) repeated it! Despite masses of beta available on the internet, it still sees very few quick ascents, hasn't been onsighted and is still regarded as somewhat of a testpiece with a redpoint crux far above the technical crux and accounting for many an accomplished climber. Many argue the route is easier than when Wolfgang and Stefan Glowacz did it in the mid 80's due to the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath). For a while considered "only" 31, it seems to have re-consolidated at 32. Start as for Punks in the Gunks. At its traverse, instead go up, L and up, up, up to chains at the top. |
25
★★ Punks in the Gunks
Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start as for Punks up the leaning diagonal, but traverse off R at the second bolt to chains on the arête. The first bolt is very high and a committing clip for those at this grade. |
25
★★ Punks at the Piles
Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start at the bottom R side of the Punks wall. It's the line just L of the arete with the carrot bolt. |
28
★★ Ciela
Really fun arete slapping. Please do not climb this route during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose. |
22
★ Purler
Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start as for Pearls Before Swine. This should be a trad route but unfortunately has been retrobolted by the first and last bolts of Ciela. |
20
★ Pearls Before Swine
Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose of Ciela.
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25
★ Growing Pains
The easiest way to sample the awesome front face of Uncle Charlie - if you like grade 25 traversing, that is. If you wish to climb this during nesting season (August to December), please approach via Uncle Charlie's Right Nostril, not the Left. Start as for PBS.
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Uncle Charlie's Left Nostril
Uncle Charlie no doubt wonders why everyone calls his right nostril the left! Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start a few metres down R of PBS, underneath the L nostril. |
24
Bridge
The guides say it's only 15m, but the easier top section makes it almost double that. Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start up one of the previous routes to gain the base of the L chimney. |
27
★★ Picking Winners
Start 2m L of UCRN.
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22
Redolence
Starts from the base of the chimney at the top the first pitch of Uncle Charlie's Right Nostril and Picking Winners (the original belay). Step around left to the seam that runs up the buttress just right of centre. A few exciting moves to get going, then follow the line to the top. |
25
★★ Uncle Charlie's Right Nostril
Old fashioned battle. According to Simey's guide the aid was eliminated before it had even been aided...visionary! Start beneath the R crack underneath the R chimney. |
26
Uncle Charlie’s Right Nostril Variant/Extension
After the crux of UCRN, easy climbing leads up left for a few metres to the current chains. However, the original belay was another two body-lengths higher at the base of the chimney (this was also the original belay on Picking Winners; the 2nd pitch of PW then stepped right and climbed the obvious bulging crack above). This variant provides a slightly harder and more sustained pitch than the original. It continues directly up from the crux of UCRN (instead of moving left to the chains) to take the short tricky bulge (the new crux) to a double ring anchor immediately below the start of the second pitch of PW. |
33
★ Somalia
Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid |
30
★★★ Ethiopia
The prime line hereabouts. All the hard bit of India then step L and up the middle of the steep wall through the top roof to lower offs. |
28
★★★ India
An amazing line through some steep bulges. It will work your shoulders and test your footwork as you try to unlock its hidden secrets. Start on the R side of the awe inspiring blank bulging orange face. Up crack before stepping left into the difficulties. Finishes out right up easier ground to DRB. Notable for an early send by Christine Gambert (FR) in 1986, when it was 29, likely the first female ascent at either grade in AU. Was also the first route in AU given grade 29, originally done by stepping L higher than is now the norm, but has slipped to 28. |
30
Wisdom of Body
Not his finest addition. Brutally hard undercling moves and very, very rarely repeated. Start as for Nose Job then bust left. |
24
★★ Nose Job
In typical Lindorff style this is a plum line, but undergraded and underprotected (possibly more so since a block broke off it). Gee it looks good though. Start 2m R of India, up the tough corner, across CoC and up a steep little crack finish to lower offs. |
24
★★ Nose Job Direct Start
Start on Coming on Chris and then at the crossroad with Nose Job follow it right for a much harder finish. Probably about the same grade as Nose Job because on both variants you get a good rest before the hardest section, but the first section on this variant is easier. |
16
★★ Coming on Chris
A route on this pinnacle for the mere mortal. A fun climb! |
21
Coming on Chris Direct Finish
Straight up past a bolt instead of traversing L. |
22/23
Winter is Coming
Was a bolted sport route ....looks to be only one bolt now. |
★ Hard Awesome Looking Project
Looks bloody desperate. |
18
★★ Virginia
Steep deep wide crack. Overhangs more than most 18s! Can be bridged without much thrutching, but some large gear can be handy. Stays dry in light rain too. Start about 20m up the gully R from CoC. |
14
★ Midgets Club
Start on ledge opposite Virginia on the Pharos. Up the cracks, veering left through blocky roof. Then traverse left past the giant chock stone bridge, and up to the anchor on Spasm in a Chasm. Rap off Spasm’s Anchor back to the belay ledge. |
25
★ Yes Please
The pencil thin crack (originally with a manky fixed wire, now with a bolt). After the crack sneak out left and finish up Virginia. One bolt plus trad. Start 5m L of Spasm. |
25
★★ All My Exes Live in Texas
Climb nearly all of Yes Please past it's bolt but instead of escaping left under the roof, do a move right and continue up the wall past two more bolts. There's a stance left of the last bolt, from here traverse right along the horizontal break that leads to the last headwall of Spasm. Finish up this (sideways #7 rock in pocket) to glory. Offers superb sustained climbing if head right from last bolt to undercling on spasm and past both it's dynos. 3 bolts plus a handful of wires (or small-med cams). |
25
★★★ Spasm in a Chasm
Unless they've joined into one continuous white streak by now, the white patches and ticks will show you the way. Almost certainly easier for the taller types, it's also harder now than when established because a key foothold during the traverse broke off (it's still 25 though). Take a medium-to-large sized wire (e.g. #6 sideways or #7 WC rock) for the top (above the big jug) which inconveniently reduces the size of a key hold in a non-grade-altering way. A couple of large RP's in a seam at the start should prevent your belayer following you off the ledge in the event of falling getting to the first bolt. Otherwise, stick clip the first bolt or just don't fall. Start off the wedged boulder near the highpoint of the chasm. |
24
★ Disbarred
Four bolts on the wall right of Spasm. Don't bridge at the start but do bridge the finish. |
26
★★ Escape
Stem up chimney with feet on one side and hands on the other, to a jug. Then climb the steep line with two bolts (new as of 2015). Start just inside the SE end of the Spasm Chasm. |
28
★★ The Great Escape
Climb directly into Escape without bridging. |
27
★★ Escape & Enter
The obvious link of Escape start into the last half of Break and Enter. Start as for Escape (original bridging start), then break right and power up through the final boulder problem of B&E. Short, but consistently powerful climbing to the very last move. The route grade is open for debate given it’s basically a V7/8. |
29
★★★ Break & Enter
Up The Great Escape to half height, then R and up to lower offs. |
10
★ Spasm Squeeze
Climb the chasm right of Spasm by following a finger crack on the left wall which leads up and right through a squeeze. Top out on the road side of Uncle Charlie's via some juggy wide chimneying. Walk off over the chockstone to the Pharos. Protectable, but a pretty tight fit with a harness. |
Front Wall and West Face
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area |
Front Wall and West Face |
16 R
Ship of Fools
Awful. It has been repeated and others should spare themselves the experience. Start 15 metres left of Oceanoid. It's supposed to be 1 metre right of all of the mank but it's hard to tell the difference between that and the climb. There's a low roof above a slab.
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19
Shipboard Romance
The start shared with Ship Of Fools is not good but things appear to improve after that. They would want to. Start as for Ship Of Fools.
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19
Damned Whores and God's Police
Start 2 metres left of Transatlantic Crossing, 10 metres left of Oceanoid.
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18
★★ Transatlantic Crossing
Start 8 metres left of Oceanoid, 1 metre right of the lowest part of the buttress, below corner leading to overhang.
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21
Rainbow Warrior
Start as for Transatlantic Crossing, 8 metres left of Oceanoid.
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20
★ Voyage of the Damned
Quite good. Originally done in two pitches but belay stances are poor so better done as one. Start 6 metres left of Oceanoid, 2 metres right of Transatlantic Crossing, at short right-slanting orange corner. |
20 R
Rearranging Deckchairs
You have to squeeze them in. Pretty contrived and has some loose blocks. Start at small rib just right of Voyage Of The Damned.
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19
★★ Halfway Damned
This is a good pitch. It may differ a little from the original route of Halfway Handsome but it is difficult to say by how much. Start at the slabby corner 3 metres left of Oceanoid. Can rap back down with a 70m rope. |
21
Halfway Handsome
Great route. The original write-up has caused some confusion and given rise to the Halfway Damned variant. Start at the slabby corner 3 metres left of Oceanoid. |
21
★★ Raise the Titanic
Best done as a single mega-pitch although a semi-hanging belay can be had in Oceanoid. Start 1 metre left of Oceanoid. |
17
★★★ Oceanoid
Fantastic climb. The original route climbed the first pitch of Courage until above the grotty overhang and then traversed left. The route as described is vastly better. Start below the inset corner in recessed bay behind large Callitris pine.
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19
Courage
The left hand corner to the ledge below Aftermath, past some rotten rock and a lot of bird poo. Originally reversed the traverse of Jezebel to get off, but there are rap chains nearby if you prefer. |
17
★ Carlton
An easier version of Courage. The right-hand inset corner. |
17
Carlton Variant Start
Looks quite daunting for the grade. |
The next 12 routes, from Sport Climb This You Bastards to A Night of Heavy Drinking, all start from
The next 12 routes, from Sport Climb This You Bastards to A Night of Heavy Drinking, all start from a ledge 35m off the ground. You can easily walk to the left end of this ledge from the hillside below the Pharos South East face (50m up and left from Punks in the Gym). Or just climb a route from the ground. |
18
★★★ Sport Climb This You Bastards
Graunchy roof-crack at left end of terrace that Oceanoid Pitch 1 finishes at. |
22
Trenchsetter
Looking from the ground, there are three overhanging noses high on the left, pitch 2 takes the middle one. Finishing up Cold Storage makes a good finish, but the gear on it is as bad as the guide suggests. Start at the left end of the half way ledge on Oceanoid, right of the first nose with Sport Climb This You Bastards.
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18
★ Left Side of the Ocean
This is an OK alternative to second pitch of Oceanoid if you've been here before. Start as for pitch 2 of Oceanoid through initial bulge then head up right to a chalked-up horizontal. Mantle onto the orange wall and continue up slab keeping left of Oceanoid. Finish just left of the bottomless corner. |
20
★★ Close to the Edge
Traversing similar territory as the excellent Trinity Wall, this route is not as sustained as its neighbour below, but provides similar bowel churning exposure. Start as for Left Side Of The Ocean, and follow this to join Oceanoid P2. A few metres before the chimney of Oceanoid, find the line that traverses right on poor feet. The pitch passes the Aftermath double bolt belay, soon reaching easier territory. |
21
★★★ Trinity Wall
Outrageous traverse. Take lots of slings, double ropes if you have them and a solid second. Start as for second pitch of Oceanoid. Once traversing right, keep going directly right, towards white hanging corner. There is a line of chalked holds higher up leading you to try and reverse the crux of Atlantis. Resist the temptation to go there. |
25
★ The Bradford Lads
Greasy, flaring crack leading to steep wall. Start at the crack leading to the white-marbled corner. |
23
★ Atlantis
A dramatic outing with a desperate bouldery start that is strenuous to protect. It was originally climbed with a massive diversion out left into Oceanoid. Start right of The Bradford Lads at the left of 2 weaknesses through the huge roof.
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25 R
★ Dead Americans
Wild roofing country with a dangerous start that can be avoided by starting up either Atlantis or Aftermath. Belay as for the start of Atlantis. |
25 R
★★★ Aftermath
An overdose of overhang, originally done as a post-exam celebration. The right-hand weakness through the overhang, right of Atlantis. Start off the left end of the niche past some rusty fixed micro wires. Try and place something better for the goey start with potential fall onto ledge. After initial bulge, head left and into TW before left again to bolt and exciting finish. Rap anchor. |
26
★ Aerial Boundaries
The bulge right of Aftermath, over roof past bolt to Trinity Wall anchor. |
22
A Night of Heavy Drinking
Start on ledge right of Aftermath, on the line of Five Fingered Mary.
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13
★ Jezebel
A wandering route that takes in some impressive country even if the climbing itself is not brilliant. Start as for Hurricane Lamp Cracks.
Seeing as you've come this far, if you are in the mood for adventure, there are another two optional pitches to entertain you ...
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20
★★★ Five Fingered Mary
A cliff-splitting weakness that is big on atmosphere but not necessarily enjoyment. The R rating is from the rock, not the gear. It has been known to calve huge blocks with the climber attached so be cautious. A 5 camalot will be appreciated. Start below the huge cleft.
Don't listen to the haters. The last pitch has great gear and is 20. Bring a 6. |
23
Prevarication Left Hand
Start as for Prevarication. Go up and left then traverse right to finish up the prow above the crux of Prevarication. |
18 R
Prevarication
Good start and bold finish but the middle bit is nothing to write home about. Start on the buttress between Five Fingered Mary and Hurricane Lamp Cracks below a crack through an overhang at 8 metres.
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20
★★ Horus
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21
Cream Between
The wall between Ra and Horus. Led onsight before the bolt was added to the start of Ra. Nice moves and good protection. Worth doing if you are in the neighborhood. |
24
★★ Ra
Pumpy, balancy, and technical.
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