Routes in Cecilia Wall

Up right side of big block on slabby terrace. Step right at bulge.

3m right of SS, Slab to weakness. Trend left up slabby rib and bulgy crack then juggy bulge.

Slab and bulge right of SG. Finish through centre of upper bulge.

Slab and bulge at right end of slabby terrace. Continue up yellow tinged corner.

Brushed bulge 2m right of MGR. Finish right of yellow corner.

This is probably what Noddy has written up as Marbles in Argus, but graded 11!. Start 4m left of Pure and Simple, just right of a flake sticking up out of the ground. Head straight up. Good gear and climbing the whole way.

Supposed to have a crack, but doesn't! 6m left of FOTR, 1m left of diagonal seam of Flying Foxes, behind a cherry ballart. Up wall, then vague juggy corner. Tricky down low. Was graded 8!

Diagonal seam that doesn't quite reach the ground left of FOTR. Bouldery start, diagonal then wall right of the corner of Pure and Simple.

Up the slab, going R and L a bit. Start just L of FotR.

From the block step L and up frictional slab. Start 10m L of the detached pillar, under a large block which is 1m up a grey wall.

The slab, scary up high. Start just R of FotR.

Small corner, past BR, to ledge, then continue. Start 2m R of SUYS.

The weakness to the break, traverse L through roof and over. Start just L of JC, off the top of the detached pillar.

Start off the top of the detached pillar. Climb the R-facing corner (or the much better steep jugs 3m R), then go R under lower roof. Over lip into short corner then ledge on L. Now traverse 8m L then up.

From the corner of John's Corner, step left then head up wall past bolt. The best way to do the route.

Up JC to it's top roof, then traverse R past old manky fixed gear, cams, and a runout, to join Cecilia. It's worse to second than to lead. Start as for JC.

Another traverse which needs a strong second. May have been somewhat sanitised by the later bolts of GftP and BE. A very noteworthy ascent for the era by a young Lindorff. Start as for JC.

1. 20m (22) Up JC for 6m then R along subtle traverse line, below SL, to flake. Step down R to pedestal on Cecilia.

2. 30m (22) R to flake, slightly up, then further R to join Frontispiece.

Start 3m R of Johns Corner at RB, face climb past two fixed hangers to reach the underclings at the roof, past another fixed hanger in the steepness. Lower off.

Reachy start past 2 RBs over bulge, then trend R. Tackle the roof 2m L of C at a weakness. Start just L of C.

Start off the detached pillar either by leaning across and climbing steeply up, or a committing, but significantly easier leap. Then follow the crackline up the leaning yellow wall, joining the R facing corner at the roof. 1 good FH, 3 manky carrot bolts (don't trust these). Bolted anchor at the top is back from the edge so if you want to lower off them you may trash your rope. It's also ok to step R to the GoB anchor and deal with a bit of sideways swinging.

Crank up the line past FH to pedestal then roof, then L into shallow groove. Start 1.5m R of C.

Really very good link up. Intransience's initial steep moves to a rest, then L and up as for Blind Ambition, to the chains.

(There is an alternative L finish from the last big horizontal up an obvious flake between the described finish and Cecilia, however despite the climbing being easier, gear is non-existent).

Committing traverse R gains ledge, then up R and up black wall. Start 10m R and down from Cecilia. Trad anchor on top.

Start on ground level 10m down R of I. Short crack past RB to ledge on I, and up I drifting R to jug on bulge. Now slightly L to join flake. L at break and then up past final RB as for GoB to rap chains.

Start 1.5m R of BA. Bulging white crack and steeply onwards until the angle eases, then traverse L to ledge on Intransience. Head L and up very faint groove over bulge into WoH. Now go diagonally L to (original:) finish up Cecilia or (better:) stay a few metres R of Cecilia past final RB, to rap chains.

Involves a rubber chicken. On the side facing Cecilia, climb low angled, juggy crack on left.

Heading left around the pillar, up undercut corner on left side of Gelf icon then up face.

On the East face (the one facing camp), left of the Gelf icon and corner of CoPLI is a line through a bulge. Be warned about rock and gear.

On the left side of the main face (that faces camp) and left of ETGZ. Up to roof. Through the aforementioned roof, stepping left and up arete.

Scramble down and around the corner left of ETGZ. Start left of right arete. Up and step left onto 'emohawk'. Then up slabby arete.