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Routes as trad in Rats Alley

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Showing all 12 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
20 X Glory Road

Superseded by 'Striptease Parade' now, but this was a bold effort back in the day. From the 1978 Lockwood guide: "Necky as anything, committing and sparsely protected." Start: At L end of wall, on a sloping ledge.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976

Trad 30m
20 X Striptease Parade

Shares the start of 'Glory Road', but goes straight up from half-height instead of escaping off left into the mossy ramble.

Start at L end of ledge, up to a couple of large pockets at 3m. Traverse left then boldy up to a horizontal break. From this ledge continue straight up without escaping left.

FA: Craig Peacock & Malcolm Matheson, 1980

Trad 30m
21 Osmond Terrace

As for SP to pockets, then move R into 'Rats Alley'. Stay with this for 10m, then head straight up brushed steak (where 'Rats Alley' moves L) past bolt and hollow flake.

Start: As for 'Striptease Parade'.

FA: Nyrie Dodd & Louise Shepherd., 1985

Mixed trad 25m, 2
21 Streetwise

A thin, almost-eliminate slab.

FA: Kieran Lawton, Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge & Bec Pirzl, 2006

Mixed trad 25m, 5
19 R Rats Alley

Committing slab climbing, but a highly enjoyable route. Unusual style for 'Arapiles'. Approach by scrambling up the easy corner.

Start: On the left hand wall, up the gully just before the chimney.

FA: Greg Child & Kim Carrigan, 1978

Mixed trad 25m, 1
21 Blyth Street

Up 'Rats Alley' for 15 or so metres, then scoot R (across Streetwise) to a welcome bolt. Keep your head together and climb straight up to the top.

Start: As for 'Rats Alley'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Hugh Foxtrot, 1978

Trad 35m
22 X Blyth Street Direct Start

Climb straight up to the bolt on Blyth Street (after it's traverse), then continue to the top as for that. Do not fall.

Start: A few metres R of 'Rats Alley'.

FA: Warwick Baird, 2000

Trad 12m
16 Nymph

Thrash up the chimney to a crack on the R wall.

Start: Wander up the gully to the base of the chimney.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Geoff Uebergang, 1967

Trad 42m
16 Ckoff

"For historical reasons only..."

Start: Near 'Nymph'.

FA: Norm Osborne, 1970

Trad 57m
23 Crystal Prophet

Original start was to bridge up chimney then swing onto R face with no gear! For some reason these days people clip the bolt on Crystal Vision and go L to the flake - still a bit bold. Up flake till it ends and move L and up to an exciting exit. Walk R to rap from 'Tarantula' anchor.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff & Peter Watson. (Mike Law climbed alt start in from R using a high runner in Tarantula), 1982

Trad 15m
19 Tarantula

The steep and sustained L-facing corner. Great.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Iain Sedgman (originally with 2 aids & later freed by Kevin), 1975

Trad 20m
27 Crystal Sausage

Steep bolted wall R of 'Tarantula'. Nobody ever does it because it's chipped and the bolts look rubbish, hence nobody knows if there is a rap anchor at the top (is there a rap anchor at the top?)

FA: Ant Prehn, 1990

Trad 25m

Showing all 12 routes.

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